Alex2507

Alex2507

Audioholic Slumlord
I meant have (your) panel looked at (by someone who's qualified).

Between the 3 guys helping you I'm sure that you'll get to the bottom of this PDQ. Please be sure to let us know what the final solution is. Thanks.
 
mtrycrafts

mtrycrafts

Seriously, I have no life.
I only disconneted the power.
Disconnect the coax cables both video and audio and see what happens. That is more important than the power cables being disconnected from the cable box as ground loop can still exist through the cables.
 
B

bj274

Enthusiast
FOUND IT!!!

I only have one sub out on my rx-v2600 that my sub is plugged into, but I had the sub on my bose 701's plugged into the LF preout which is where the noise is coming from.

Why is this, and is there somewhere I can plug the woofers on the 701s in or should I just leave them unplugged?

Thank everyone for your help, I really appreciate it.
 
TLS Guy

TLS Guy

Seriously, I have no life.
FOUND IT!!!

I only have one sub out on my rx-v2600 that my sub is plugged into, but I had the sub on my bose 701's plugged into the LF preout which is where the noise is coming from.

Why is this, and is there somewhere I can plug the woofers on the 701s in or should I just leave them unplugged?

Thank everyone for your help, I really appreciate it.
Sorry, I'm slow getting back to you, but I had to travel to a retirement party last night for our health system's CEO's retirement party.

I assume that the sub is plugged into a different wall outlet from the rest of the gear and likely on a different circuit. Is that correct? This is one of the classic ways ground loops are created.

If that is so here are you options

1. Run a power cable from the same outlet as the rest of the system is plugged into.

2. Use an isolation transformer in the connection from your receiver to the Bose sub. You need to get a Y connector so you can connect your sub and Bose sub to the sub out. Your are only sending the left channel output to the Bose currently. Don't Y the LF and RF pre outs together or you will likely listen to everything in mono!

http://www.markertek.com/Product.asp?baseItem=JEN-CI1RR&cat=INTERFACE&subcat=&prodClass=AUDHUM&mfg=Jensen+Transformers&search=0&off=


3. Use a ground break on the sub ac cord, converts three to two prong connector and lifts the ground. This is frowned on for reasons of safety. However the sub is still grounded by the audio interconnect. The problem is that if the sub is disconnected from the receiver, then the sub is not grounded.
 
B

bj274

Enthusiast
Thanks alot for your help.

I will try a Y adapter.
Everything is plugged into the monster 5100.
 
TLS Guy

TLS Guy

Seriously, I have no life.
Thanks alot for your help.

I will try a Y adapter.
Everything is plugged into the monster 5100.
If everything is plugged into the same outlet, then you may well have a bad cable going to the Bose sub. You need to do the Y connection to get both channels going to the Bose. I would definitely use a new cable to the Bose, yours has to be highly suspect.
 
solomr2

solomr2

Full Audioholic
I'm looking at two power conditioners in the $200-$400 price range a APC type H and a Monster HTS 2600 MKII which one would you guys recommend. Also is there any other power conditioners comparable to these in this price range?
I bought a Belkin PureAV PF60 about 8 months ago for $160 from eCost and I am quite pleased with it. It has handled everything I've thrown at it so far and it provides very clean power.

CLICK HERE for a review on the PF60.

I think if you shop around you may still find it for around $200-250.
 
TLS Guy

TLS Guy

Seriously, I have no life.
I bought a Belkin PureAV PF60 about 8 months ago for $160 from eCost and I am quite pleased with it. It has handled everything I've thrown at it so far and it provides very clean power.

CLICK HERE for a review on the PF60.

I think if you shop around you may still find it for around $200-250.
As far as I can tell tat is peak and surge only. When I put my system together I did an extensive review. APC offered the best value for performance by far.

I have large Kohler auto star generator at Benedict. My APC units handle the generator fine, without equipment damage. They certify the units I have for generator use.

In performance per dollar its APC hands down.
 
solomr2

solomr2

Full Audioholic
As far as I can tell tat is peak and surge only. When I put my system together I did an extensive review. APC offered the best value for performance by far.

I have large Kohler auto star generator at Benedict. My APC units handle the generator fine, without equipment damage. They certify the units I have for generator use.

In performance per dollar its APC hands down.
Perhaps you missed this in the documentation....

The PF60 offers the highest power filtration levels of any of the Power Consoles with what they call the Phase 6 PureFilter Circuitry. What this means is that there are six isolated filters that provide clean and clear power to each of your components that are hooked up to the PF60. Both the wiring and grounding are monitored out of each of the outlets and the LCD display will show a checkmark if all is good or an �x� if there is a problem. On the surge protection side of things, the PF60 offers protection up to 7114 Joules and 369,000 Amp Maximum Spike Amperage.

Another nice feature of the PF60 is the Remote AC Operation. This function allows you to turn your Power Console on and off via your preamplifier or receiver equipped with a switched AC power outlet. Using either the supplied AC power cord (120VAC), or DC input (3-30V), the PF60 will turn power the power on when power is needed. In order to use this function though, you must enable it by utilizing the �Remote� button located at the bottom of the LCD screen.
Also, each of the outlet banks is individually programmable, and there are various triggers and delays that can used to integrate components.
 

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