Building sub

[flippo]

I would like to build a sub with this driver:

http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&Partnumber=295-444

and this amp:

http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&Partnumber=300-750


I want to make it a sealed sub preferably. I like to know of any thoughts people might have or suggestions. Will get software to determine the dimensions the box needs to be.

Thanks

 

[flippo]

Any replies?

 

[sparky77]

I would probably go with the 10" or 12" Titanic MKIII kits, by the time you build a reasonable looking box it would likely cost about the same.

 

[Swerd]

flippo

That aluminum subwoofer from PE is excellent, and is said to be better at music than the Titanic subwoofers. I have used the RS 12" HF in a 2 cubic foot (internal) sealed cabinet. A number of other builders have put it in 1.8 to 2.0 cubic foot sealed cabinets with success. Be sure to build it with plenty of crossbracing.

I use mine with the 500 watt PE HPSA 500 plate amp, others have used the 240 watt SA240 amp. It seems like the 300 watt BASH amp ought to do fine.

 

[annunaki]

You will need to get the 4 ohm version of the sub with that amplifier to get the full 300 watts rms out of it.

Enclosures of about 2.0cu.ft. net seem to work well with that sub. The 500watt parts express amp is a great choice with the woofer because of its notch filter and parametric eq. It will allow for near field F3 of 25hz in 1.8 cu. ft. net or possibly lower with a 2.0 cu.ft. net enclosure.

 

[flippo]

Thanks

I pretty much decided to go with the HSA 500 amp.

I meant to highligt the 4ohm version of speaker but selected wrong one (they're right next to each other)! I decided not to use a kit so I can get the practise of building my own (I will have help from an experienced person).

Thanks for the replies.

 

[jeffsg4mac]

I would like to build a sub with this driver:

http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&Partnumber=295-444

and this amp:

http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&Partnumber=300-750


I want to make it a sealed sub preferably. I like to know of any thoughts people might have or suggestions. Will get software to determine the dimensions the box needs to be.

Thanks

I worked up this driver with Bass box pro and got an F3 of 19.98 hz. It is the one I would recommend and the one I am going to use as well. Box was 4.736 cu. ft internal volume, normal fill and a 5x18in port. total volume was 5.322 cu. ft with bracing.

 

[annunaki]

I worked up this driver with Bass box pro and got an F3 of 19.98 hz. It is the one I would recommend and the one I am going to use as well. Box was 4.736 cu. ft internal volume, normal fill and a 5x18in port. total volume was 5.322 cu. ft with bracing.

What was the port velocity down low with that sub with rated input power with a port of that size? Are you also figuring in port displacement I assume? Port displacement with internal dimensions given is .204 cu.ft. I usually shoot for a port surface area near 28 sq. in. or larger when tuning that deep to avoid port compression. Slotted vents are almost required though as they have to be folded up to fit in the enclosure because of increased length. The additional port area aids in output as well as efficiency.

You should be able to tune to 20hz with an f3 around 17-18hz in that size enclosure. Not that anyone would likely hear the difference at that low of a frequency anyway.

2.0-2.2 cu.ft. is where you want to be for a sealed application with that driver. Make sure you use adequate bracing in any enclosure.

 

[flippo]

sealed

I'm looking at making it sealed at this point. Ican change my mind since I am still in the planning mode. Thanks for the replies.

 

[tcarcio]

This is a very economical box for a 12'' sub.http://www.icixsound.com/vb/showthread.php?t=39744

 

[annunaki]

No offense but that box is crap. It is simple to slap 6 pieces of mdf together and throw a port into it. Tuning that low, dual 4" ports or better should be used to alleviate port compression. Not to mention, bracing the enclosure is absolutely critical to avoid resonances. Sure it would work and give you 20hz tuning but it will not sound as nice as building a proper well braced enclosure with adequate vent area.

 

[100r1]

Has anyone listened to the difference between the 2 parts express 12" drivers
RSS315HF-8
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&Partnumber=295-444

and
Titanic MK III TIT320C-4
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&Partnumber=295-404

in the same enclosure / amplifier ? If so what differences did you hear with HT / Music (rock, jazz, classical) etc.

Cost is not a issues as they are almost the same cost. I was thinking about the PE Dayton titanic T1203 kit http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&Partnumber=300-762

But the decision between the 2 drivers has me slowed down. PE current cost of $ 460.00 w/ free shipping makes this VERY attractive. it would be virtually identical to the original posters D.I.Y project.

 

[annunaki]

The HF driver is a bit more controlled and accurate but gives up a bit of output to do so. Both drivers sound very good and perform well in a variety of applications. For me, I can forgo the extra db or two in output for increased linearity.

You really cannot go wrong with either one.

 

[jeffsg4mac]

What was the port velocity down low with that sub with rated input power with a port of that size? Are you also figuring in port displacement I assume?

Max port velocity at 500 watts was 24 ms. I believe the program takes into account the port displacement.

I played around with it quite a bit and it was the best one I could come up within a reasonable size box and dual 4-in ports resulted in some weird lengths if I remember correctly. I would have to run it again to be sure, but there was a reason I chose the 5-inch port.

Woo hoo, I hit a thousand.

 

[annunaki]

Max port velocity at 500 watts was 24 ms. I believe the program takes into account the port displacement.

I played around with it quite a bit and it was the best one I could come up within a reasonable size box and dual 4-in ports resulted in some weird lengths if I remember correctly. I would have to run it again to be sure, but there was a reason I chose the 5-inch port.

Woo hoo, I hit a thousand.

Congrats Mr. 1000

Anyway, that is plenty acceptable for port velocity. Was that the peak velocity? 5" would be fine there if it is the peak velocity.

 

[jeffsg4mac]

Congrats Mr. 1000

Anyway, that is plenty acceptable for port velocity. Was that the peak velocity? 5" would be fine there if it is the peak velocity.

Yes that was the peak

I have to get two of them built soon because my EP 2500 is about to bounce my velodynes right out of their cabinets. They just can't take it.

 

[flippo]

Building cabinet

I have the plans for building the cabinet (with a few mods that won't effect the volume). Anybody see problems with building cabinet before purchasing the driver and amp (holding off on front baffle until I get the driver)?

Thanks

 

[adwilk]

No offense but that box is crap. It is simple to slap 6 pieces of mdf together and throw a port into it. Tuning that low, dual 4" ports or better should be used to alleviate port compression. Not to mention, bracing the enclosure is absolutely critical to avoid resonances. Sure it would work and give you 20hz tuning but it will not sound as nice as building a proper well braced enclosure with adequate vent area.

Yeah, i lost interest in that little DIY project when he started talking about using the unused rear channels of the amplifier to power the sub... are you kidding me?

 

[flippo]

Dimensions

The cabinet I plan to use will be 15 1/2 inches by height, depth and width. does this sound about right?

 

[sparky77]

just my two cents worth, but I would go 15.5 x 15.5 x 10.5 to increase the linearity of the speaker and avoid hiting the max excusion with only a deficit of about 3 db at 5 hz, and less than 2 db at 20 hz