Bamboo Plywood?

[speakerman39]

For a subwoofer, it simply does not matter. Decent bracing (nothing special) of any of these materials will result in no audible panel colorations with a subwoofer. A full range speaker is far more difficult for which to build a silent cabinet.

-Chris

Thanks yet again Chris. It looks like I will use MDF if I go with the kit. Just wonder if anyone has ever used the PE 2 ft^3 cabinet AND added some extra bracing????? This would be helpful if my installer does not have the time to help me build a cabinet.

 

[speakerman39]

Probably absolutely none that you would hear. With proper bracing, it would be very minuscule in terms of measurement as well.

This seems to be the consensus. So MDF it will be if I decide to go the DIY Rythmik kit.

 

[Johnd]

Hey John would the black walnut be heavier than oak plywood? Would oak be a better choice over say birch?

The choice of veneer which you select has absolutely no bearing on the weight. The ply of veneer is so thin...it is the substrate that makes up the weight.

 

[speakerman39]

The choice of veneer which you select has absolutely no bearing on the weight. The ply of veneer is so thin...it is the substrate that makes up the weight.

No, I meant will the black walnut plywood be heavier than oak plywood? I thought oak was the heaviest and the most sturdy of all plywoods. Am I right?

 

[Johnd]

No, I meant will the black walnut plywood be heavier than oak plywood? I thought oak was the heaviest and the most sturdy of all plywoods. Am I right?

I don't know where you're getting that information. The plys of the plywood (# and orientation) dictate the strength of the plywood, not the finish veneeer. Besides, why do you need the "heaviest and most sturdy?"

 

[speakerman39]

I don't know where you're getting that information. The plys of the plywood (# and orientation) dictate the strength of the plywood, not the finish veneeer. Besides, why do you need the "heaviest and most sturdy?"

Hi John, I am not referring to veneer at all. I have been told that oak plywood is the heaviest and sturdiest of all plywoods. The reason I am so interested in that is because the stronger the cabinet the less resonance you have inside which in turn results in less distortion. So, was just asking is there anything stronger than oak plywood that you are aware of???

 

[WmAx]

Hi John, I am not referring to veneer at all. I have been told that oak plywood is the heaviest and sturdiest of all plywoods. The reason I am so interested in that is because the stronger the cabinet the less resonance you have inside which in turn results in less distortion. So, was just asking is there anything stronger than oak plywood that you are aware of???

It's a non issue for sub-cabinets. And weight is not so important as stiffness. BTW, if you really want the strongest ply, you should probably go for some aircraft grade ply(which is used for the aircraft skin/wings). A few layers built up to the desired thickness.... bank account severely depleted.... there you go.

-Chris

 

[stratman]

It's a non issue for sub-cabinets. And weight is not so important as stiffness. BTW, if you really want the strongest ply, you should probably go for some aircraft grade ply(which is used for the aircraft skin/wings). A few layers built up to the desired thickness.... bank account severely depleted.... there you go.

-Chris

Money aside, that's very cool idea.

 

[speakerman39]

It's a non issue for sub-cabinets. And weight is not so important as stiffness. BTW, if you really want the strongest ply, you should probably go for some aircraft grade ply(which is used for the aircraft skin/wings). A few layers built up to the desired thickness.... bank account severely depleted.... there you go.

-Chris

Hey Chris how is it going? My installer said he does NOT want to glue multiple layers together as it he calims, " is too much work ". That said, I probably will just use 3/4" MDF and be done with it. I may also look into using 3/4" HDF. My point is, whatever I use my installer is going to cut it (1) time so attaching a couple of panels together is just not going to happen. Is HDF that much better than MDF???? Once my installer at work gets the cabinet done I will then take it to a local cabinet maker and have them veneer it for me. Then, load the driver, and amp, and plug it in.

 

[speakerman39]

Money aside, that's very cool idea.

Yeah it is-also thought the bamboo was a good idea. But, after $200 a sheet I am like no f'in way.

 

[WmAx]

Hey Chris how is it going? My installer said he does NOT want to glue multiple layers together as it he calims, " is too much work ". That said, I probably will just use 3/4" MDF and be done with it. I may also look into using 3/4" HDF. My point is, whatever I use my installer is going to cut it (1) time so attaching a couple of panels together is just not going to happen. Is HDF that much better than MDF???? Once my installer at work gets the cabinet done I will then take it to a local cabinet maker and have them veneer it for me. Then, load the driver, and amp, and plug it in.

I would (and usually do) use a high grade hardwood plywood and put a few good braces inside. BTW, you should have the front baffle doubled up so that you can route a recess and flush mount the woofer. It looks better, IMO. But if the installer is really that lazy....

BTW, if you are using this subwoofer in a room that has wood joist supported flooring, you might want to consider integrating a suspension platform into the bottom of the subwoofer to de-couple it from the floor, which can cause a resonance in some flooring if direct coupled. I can expand on how to build a high quality de-coupler easily if you are interested, and if your installer is not too lazy.

-Chris

 

[speakerman39]

I would (and usually do) use a high grade hardwood plywood and put a few good braces inside. BTW, you should have the front baffle doubled up so that you can route a recess and flush mount the woofer. It looks better, IMO. But if the installer is really that lazy....

BTW, if you are using this subwoofer in a room that has wood joist supported flooring, you might want to consider integrating a suspension platform into the bottom of the subwoofer to de-couple it from the floor, which can cause a resonance in some flooring if direct coupled. I can expand on how to build a high quality de-coupler easily if you are interested, and if your installer is not too lazy.

-Chris

Hi Chris. Not really sure how it will be done just weighing my options so to speak. Have no hard-wood floor issues whatsoever. But, I really all your help. Have a great evening my friend.

 

[Cavediver]

The only reason to use bamboo plywood would be for the look of the bamboo. There are bamboo veneers which you can put on the mdf to get the bamboo look if that's what you want. The horizontal bamboo plywood is not very stable and must be stored laying flat in a dry environment and sealed immediately after it's cut. The vertical bamboo is more stable than the horizontal, but must also be sealed immediately. If you want the bamboo look, the veneer is your best bet.

 

[stratman]

Yup, bamboo must be sealed asap, we did a job where it was installed on the floor and the waste pieces were left outside, after 2 days the unsealed areas were getting mouldy.

 

[speakerman39]

The only reason to use bamboo plywood would be for the look of the bamboo. There are bamboo veneers which you can put on the mdf to get the bamboo look if that's what you want. The horizontal bamboo plywood is not very stable and must be stored laying flat in a dry environment and sealed immediately after it's cut. The vertical bamboo is more stable than the horizontal, but must also be sealed immediately. If you want the bamboo look, the veneer is your best bet.

I do like the bamboo look BUT it is the strngth that interest me. Just been reading about it over on the Ascend Acoustics web site. Found it very interesting and as such left me curious as to how it would compare to the likes of MDF, Plywood, and etc. Thanks for the info.

 

[speakerman39]

Yup, bamboo must be sealed asap, we did a job where it was installed on the floor and the waste pieces were left outside, after 2 days the unsealed areas were getting mouldy.

Hmmmmm...........interesting. BTW, that is a cool avatar.

 

[Johnd]

I do like the bamboo look BUT it is the strngth that interest me.

If you want strength go Paduak. Beautiful wood, hard as iron.

 

[speakerman39]

If you want strength go Paduak. Beautiful wood, hard as iron.

Will look into it. Thanks for the info. Have a good day.

 

[fmw]

I do like the bamboo look BUT it is the strngth that interest me. Just been reading about it over on the Ascend Acoustics web site. Found it very interesting and as such left me curious as to how it would compare to the likes of MDF, Plywood, and etc. Thanks for the info.

Even though bamboo is a grass and not a wood, it is noticeably harder than wood. Does that make it better than something soft like MDF for a speaker cabinet? Probably not. I would guess it is more likely to resonate than MDF. Whether it does or not has a lot to do with how the enclosure is designed and braced. You want to keep the enclosure as still and quiet as you can. To keep an enclosure quiet requires weight, thickness and bracing. Let the drivers move, keep the enclosure as still as possible. Personally, I wouldn't use bamboo. It would just be more difficult to keep quiet.

 

[stratman]

And harder to work with.