dedicated HT cables needed

mike c

mike c

Audioholic Warlord
I'm gonna need subwoofer cables, audio cables ...

of course, my sales guy said I shouldn't use RG6, RG59 cables (that I should use his branded cables bla bla) ... do I remember correctly that RG59 is ok?

I'm also gonna need HDMI cables ...

I'm gonna need around 35 ft. (he's charging me less than 300 bucks for XLO brand)

remember, I don't have access to your US online sites.
 
Haoleb

Haoleb

Audioholic Field Marshall
rg59 or rg6 will work fine for both audio and video cables.
 
mtrycrafts

mtrycrafts

Seriously, I have no life.
I'm gonna need subwoofer cables, audio cables ...

of course, my sales guy said I shouldn't use RG6, RG59 cables (that I should use his branded cables bla bla) ... do I remember correctly that RG59 is ok?

I'm also gonna need HDMI cables ...

I'm gonna need around 35 ft. (he's charging me less than 300 bucks for XLO brand)

remember, I don't have access to your US online sites.
Yes, as Haoleb indicated, those two are good all around cables for all your audio needs.
 
mike c

mike c

Audioholic Warlord
for awhile there, the sales guy got me doubting myself.
 
mtrycrafts

mtrycrafts

Seriously, I have no life.
thanks jaxvon!

ok, I know that RG6 is thicker gauge than RG59 (or is that thicker shielding)
but RG6 is very hard to stick in pipes and stuff ... so I think I'm going for RG59. what is the limit on RG59 cables for length? what benefits does RG6 have over RG59?
RG6 indeed has a thicker center conductor, less signal loss.
What is the purpose and how long are your runs? On some use it doesn't matter. Others it might.
 
mike c

mike c

Audioholic Warlord
subwoofer cables to different locations in the room (in case I want to move subwoofer locations, the cables will already be in the wall)
 
jaxvon

jaxvon

Audioholic Ninja
subwoofer cables to different locations in the room (in case I want to move subwoofer locations, the cables will already be in the wall)
I would look at using either Belden 1505F or Canare LV-77S. Both of these cables feature a double braid shield (better at stopping LF-EMI and hum, something you'd want for subwoofer runs), a 22awg center conductor for low loss, and a stranded design for the center conductor for better flexibility. I did some more searching and found another good site for cabling options:

www.markertek.com

If you're interested in a cable, I know for a fact that markertek should send you a sample of a cable at little or no cost (nothing for me here in the states but I don't about to Manilla). As for wall plates, I would think that you have different-style boxes than we have here in the US, so those would have to be sourced locally.
 
mike c

mike c

Audioholic Warlord
jaxvon, will the double braiding be a requirement?
when you say stranded for flexibility ... what do you mean?
if I was to use all this for RCA connectors, which is better, stranded or solid?


local Belden suppliers have the following:
8241 (single braid, solid core)
9259 (single braid, stranded)

8281 (double braid, solid core ga.20) 2.5 times the cost of the ones above
 
jaxvon

jaxvon

Audioholic Ninja
jaxvon, will the double braiding be a requirement?
when you say stranded for flexibility ... what do you mean?
if I was to use all this for RCA connectors, which is better, stranded or solid?


local Belden suppliers have the following:
8241 (single braid, solid core)
9259 (single braid, stranded)

8281 (double braid, solid core ga.20) 2.5 times the cost of the ones above
I don't think you will need a double braid, those were just two high quality cables that came to mind. The 9259 should work very well. When I mentioned flexibility, I meant for when it's installed. The stranded center conductor means it will be easier to pull through walls and conduit. Even if you're not doing the work, the people doing the job will appreciate not having to muck around with overly stiff cabling.

As I understand, you're running this in the wall. You can buy wall plates that can be directly wired to coax, or you can get the kind that accept a connector on the back. Either way would work, though the easier method would probably be to terminate the cable behind the wall. What kind of plug you use does not matter, but do be sure to use high grade components, like Canare to ensure proper impedance and long life.
 
mike c

mike c

Audioholic Warlord
now I get it, thanks! I bought RG6 solid core cable for my sub cable and it is indeed very hard to bend without a big radius.
 
jaxvon

jaxvon

Audioholic Ninja
now I get it, thanks! I bought RG6 solid core cable for my sub cable and it is indeed very hard to bend without a big radius.
No problem. I need to clarify my last post: I meant when you terminate the cable behind the wall, do it for a wall plate with a jack on the back. I know you can find RCA-RCA feedthrough jacks, as well as other 75-ohm feed through jacks, like BNC and F-Connector.
 
mike c

mike c

Audioholic Warlord
my dealer suggested I use a readily available NTSC connector wall plate (the one with a thread, used for cable TV)
 
jaxvon

jaxvon

Audioholic Ninja
my dealer suggested I use a readily available NTSC connector wall plate (the one with a thread, used for cable TV)
That would definitely work. You'd just have to make a custom F-RCA cable, but this should not be a problem as both are 75-ohm coax connections.
 
mike c

mike c

Audioholic Warlord
9259 is stranded 22 gauge

8241 is solid core 23 gauge

so naturally, 9259 should be better right? but why is 8241 a tiny bit more expensive?



I bought 1 meter samples for each 8281, 9249 and 8241
 
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