I think I fried my 12v trigger

[j_garcia]

I had an issue with my SB4000 staying on all the time. It seemed to be picking signal up from somewhere, so I bought another trigger manage the sub. Previously, I was not using the trigger and it was never an issue. At first it didn't seem to be working, so I went back behind and pulled the triggers to swap 1 and 2 and I arced on the chassis of the XPA-5 because I was dumb and forgot to turn it off. Now the trigger does not work at all. I tried trigger 1 and 2 on the sub and both work, so it would seem to be an issue on the amp's trigger. The amp works fine, just no trigger.

 

[TLS Guy]

I had an issue with my SB4000 staying on all the time. It seemed to be picking signal up from somewhere, so I bought another trigger manage the sub. Previously, I was not using the trigger and it was never an issue. At first it didn't seem to be working, so I went back behind and pulled the triggers to swap 1 and 2 and I arced on the chassis of the XPA-5 because I was dumb and forgot to turn it off. Now the trigger does not work at all. I tried trigger 1 and 2 on the sub and both work, so it would seem to be an issue on the amp's trigger. The amp works fine, just no trigger.

That will blow them alright. The best think to do is to buy a remote switch for your sub. I would not bother repairing the trigger. Triggers are a problem in general. They don't handle much power. I interpose relays between the triggers I use in the family room and inwall system. The studio has amps too powerful for any 12 volt system. There I have manual switches the 27 volt relays. If all the amps cam on at once it would blow the breaker. In any event I have to use slow blow breakers on the amps, even with manual sequencing. 12 volt triggers are problematic in many ways, and have serious limitations.

 

[highfigh]

I had an issue with my SB4000 staying on all the time. It seemed to be picking signal up from somewhere, so I bought another trigger manage the sub. Previously, I was not using the trigger and it was never an issue. At first it didn't seem to be working, so I went back behind and pulled the triggers to swap 1 and 2 and I arced on the chassis of the XPA-5 because I was dumb and forgot to turn it off. Now the trigger does not work at all. I tried trigger 1 and 2 on the sub and both work, so it would seem to be an issue on the amp's trigger. The amp works fine, just no trigger.

The photos I found show that the sub can be operated with BT- is that enabled, or DISabled?

 

[TLS Guy]

The photos I found show that the sub can be operated with BT- is that enabled, or DISabled?

Yes, according to the spec, it can be controlled by BT from Apple and Android devices. However I think a remote switch would be more convenient and quicker.

 

[highfigh]

That will blow them alright. The best think to do is to buy a remote switch for your sub. I would not bother repairing the trigger. Triggers are a problem in general. They don't handle much power. I interpose relays between the triggers I use in the family room and inwall system. The studio has amps too powerful for any 12 volt system. There I have manual switches the 27 volt relays. If all the amps cam on at once it would blow the breaker. In any event I have to use slow blow breakers on the amps, even with manual sequencing. 12 volt triggers are problematic in many ways, and have serious limitations.

12V triggers are usually very reliable- he shorted it by not turning it off and I have yet to see one in a consumer audio piece that used more than about 200mA- most 12V trigger outputs are rated for about 150mA, but if more is needed, some kind of device is needed (and have been available for a long time) to prevent toasting the output which, in many cases, falls on its face when higher current is needed, rather than burning up. Shorting to chassis is a completely different problem.

I agree about not repairing, though- there are so many ways to achieve this that it's not necessary and shipping it would cost far more than a smart plug (outlet) and a 12V wall wart.

This brings another point that bothers me about the manufacturers- they stopped including a 120V courtesy outlet on receivers/preamps and those were useful in many ways. I would never recommend using one for powering a subwoofer or high powered amplifier, but small accessories and devices used them when they were available. They also didn't use a low current circuit.

 

[highfigh]

Yes, according to the spec, it can be controlled by BT from Apple and Android devices. However I think a remote switch would be more convenient and quicker.

My question was to to the OP and can't be answered by anyone utside of his place. If BT was enabled, then is would be possible for it to turn on. What I didn't see is auto turn on with signal and that would be another possible cause if it actually had it. As a solution, the remote switch would be best.

 

[Eppie]

My question was to to the OP and can't be answered by anyone utside of his place. If BT was enabled, then is would be possible for it to turn on. What I didn't see is auto turn on with signal and that would be another possible cause if it actually had it. As a solution, the remote switch would be best.

Read the first two sentences in the post. The sub was on constantly and he thought that it was picking up a signal from somewhere. That implies auto turn-on. Still, I would investigate further. Maybe a bad cable was causing some noise? Auto turn-on with SVS subs tends to be pretty reliable (much more than with my previous Klipsch). I can understand the desire not to have to add another remote to the power on sequence. A programmable remote could help there.

 

[j_garcia]

The photos I found show that the sub can be operated with BT- is that enabled, or DISabled?

I use the app to control the sub, but I am not sure it specifically has an "on and off" function, it is basically used for parameter control.

The trigger that got toasted is on my main amp, not the sub. The amp has no BT control. The SVS is working fine with the trigger. Still a similar answer, I don't want to ship the amp back for that to be repaired. I'll give a smart plug a try.

 

[highfigh]

Read the first two sentences in the post. The sub was on constantly and he thought that it was picking up a signal from somewhere. That implies auto turn-on. Still, I would investigate further. Maybe a bad cable was causing some noise? Auto turn-on with SVS subs tends to be pretty reliable (much more than with my previous Klipsch). I can understand the desire not to have to add another remote to the power on sequence. A programmable remote could help there.

It implies that but there's no switch to enable auto turn-on on the rear panel. It may have it, but I wasn't going to search for info that could have been included.

A programmable light switch would work, too, as long as the sub doesn't need too much power.

 

[highfigh]

I use the app to control the sub, but I am not sure it specifically has an "on and off" function, it is basically used for parameter control.

The trigger that got toasted is on my main amp, not the sub. The amp has no BT control. The SVS is working fine with the trigger. Still a similar answer, I don't want to ship the amp back for that to be repaired. I'll give a smart plug a try.

The sub doesn't provide the trigger voltage and I know you realized that it was ON after you saw the arc, so there's no reason to beat you up for it.

Do you use an app for the whole system? If so, can you add commands to 'Turn On'?

I wasn't asking about the amp and I saw that its trigger fried- the sub has BT on the label. Since the sub has that capability, does the app include On/Off?

 

[Eppie]

It implies that but there's no switch to enable auto turn-on on the rear panel. It may have it, but I wasn't going to search for info that could have been included.

A programmable light switch would work, too, as long as the sub doesn't need too much power.

No auto turn-on that I can see. I only see power on/off and trigger input. Without the trigger I would assume that the sub is always on. Looks like it's either using the app or a programmable/remote switch.

https://images.crutchfieldonline.com/ImageHandler/trim/3000/1950/products/2018/0/946/g946SB4KBA-M.jpg