Please help with designing a box for this amp and these woofers ( :

[TLS Guy]

Here's how this started, I was running Optimus LX4 I got from Goodwill for $6, on my computer. They sounded amazing, I decided to to the Black Dahlia mod on them, they sounded even better. Eventually I wanted more so I went to the KRK Rokit 5s with a DragonFly DAC and it was even better.

I liked the KRKs enough I went with some Rokit 8s I found a deal on for my TV and music which is run by a second computer I have. DragonFly 2.5mm to XLR cables out to the KRK which are sitting on either side of a 60" television. I just wanted better lows and studio subs aren't super common and I figured I could build better than the KRK sub for the $500 it cost.

And now here we are, me totally out of my depths on how to make a subwoofer and happy to see just how nerdy things have gotten. Huge strides in speaker designing and DIY which is amazing.

I'm open to any subwoofer, I'm just trying to stay reasonable on the price. I'm fine with a 15" or two 12s if that's better, I would like to get down to 20hz for movies and so on. The only thing I'm set on is using the plate amp, I already have it and like the XLR connections.

Thank you all for the responses, ears wide open, happy to buy any sub that would work well with that amp and build any box that served them well.

See the design I have just posted above.

 

[TucsonAZ]

Okay, I've decided on the HT-18 v3 as it appears to be a great value and will more than meet my needs.

 

[isolar8001]

Okay, I've decided on the HT-18 v3 as it appears to be a great value and will more than meet my needs.

TLSGuy posted a nice design for you with a nice sub driver.
And now you totally ignore him and say you want another car audio subwoofer.....size issues ?

Why did you even ask for help here if you are just going to do your own thing regardless of his expert advice ?
Enjoy your rinky-dink system however it ends up.

 

[TucsonAZ]

TLSGuy posted a nice design for you with a nice sub driver.
And now you totally ignore him and say you want another car audio subwoofer.....size issues ?

Why did you even ask for help here if you are just going to do your own thing regardless of his expert advice ?
Enjoy your rinky-dink system however it ends up.

Somebody making a suggestion is really nice but it doesn't mean it is going to fit my needs, budget, space. You also have to acknowledge you lose some credibility when I'm asking for help building something for home theater and I choose the HomeTheater-18 AKA HT-18 and you call the subwoofer designed specifically for home theater with HT even in the model name a car audio subwoofer.

 

[Tankini]

Somebody making a suggestion is really nice but it doesn't mean it is going to fit my needs, budget, space. You also have to acknowledge you lose some credibility when I'm asking for help building something for home theater and I choose the HomeTheater-18 AKA HT-18 and you call the subwoofer designed specifically for home theater with HT even in the model name a car audio subwoofer.

Soooo, your wanting T-Rex Bass?! Why stop there. Google on YouTube, you'll find a video. Two 32" subs or was it 33" subs, anyway dude built two of them put 2K watt amps in each with Blue lights in each. Showed a SPL metter reading of 11Hz couldn't hear the 11Hz but his wife's hair sitting in front of the subs was standing on her head! En-Joy!

 

[TucsonAZ]

Soooo, your wanting T-Rex Bass?! Why stop there. Google on YouTube, you'll find a video. Two 32" subs or was it 33" subs, anyway dude built two of them put 2K watt amps in each with Blue lights in each. Showed a SPL metter reading of 11Hz couldn't hear the 11Hz but his wife's hair sitting in front of the subs was standing on her head! En-Joy!

Unless you know something I don't an 18" sub powered by the 250 watt plate amp I linked isn't going to actually bring the house down. In general my thinking is it's allowing me the most flexibility and I would rather one 18" moving 1/2" than a couple of 10s moving 2" as the 18" is just not going to have to work so hard. I'm also not going to have to go through a ton of effort to get down to 20hz for home theater. The 18" honestly was just a much better value than any other option.

 

[isolar8001]

OP certainly won't be the first to drive an el cheapo big ass car woofer with a cheesy litle amp....he will live and learn.

 

[TucsonAZ]

OP certainly won't be the first to drive an el cheapo big ass car woofer with a cheesy litle amp....he will live and learn.

You clearly just want to hit and run with the comments so I know you won't back up anything you're saying but can you backup how it's a car woofer even though it was designed for and named after home theater.

 

[isolar8001]

OP must wanna be like this guy....and his HT-18 v3 car woofers. (gotta love the subs being open to the elements on the bottom!) Reminds me why I got out of car audio sales and installations.

 

[TucsonAZ]

OP must wanna be like this guy....and his HT-18 v3 car woofers. (gotta love the subs being open to the elements on the bottom!) Reminds me why I got out of car audio sales and installations.

Appreciate you making my point, no response to what I said, no facts, just fluff. Clearly you've recently been laid off from CNN, hope the job hunt is going well.

 

[isolar8001]

Appreciate you making my point, no response to what I said, no facts, just fluff. Clearly you've recently been laid off from CNN, hope the job hunt is going well.

See...I knew if I pushed you enough your MAGA side would come out ! (hence your size concerns)

The facts on those woofers are that they are car woofers that Stereo Integrity put "HT" in front of to increase sales...they are car woofers that can be used in home also if big boom and not fidelity is your concern.
Some of us have seen car audio driver makers do this a hundred times. It's good business, bad practice.

TLSGuy designed you a sub with a much higher quality driver (at about the same price) that will sound much better than whatever monstrosity you make with that 18. (but you think bigger is better...title of your sextape)

If you noticed he wont even respond to you now after you wasted his valuable time...but, he has much more class than I do.

 

[TucsonAZ]

See...I knew if I pushed you enough your MAGA side would come out ! (hence your size concerns)

The facts on those woofers are that they are car woofers that Stereo Integrity put "HT" in front of to increase sales...they are car woofers that can be used in home also if big boom and not fidelity is your concern.
Some of us have seen car audio driver makers do this a hundred times. It's good business, bad practice.

TLSGuy designed you a sub with a much higher quality driver (at about the same price) that will sound much better than whatever monstrosity you make with that 18. (but you think bigger is better...title of your sextape)

If you noticed he wont even respond to you now after you wasted his valuable time...but, he has much more class than I do.

MAGA? What in the world kind of an assumption is that? Are you saying only the right has wised up to the media lies? I feel like that's a universal thing but clearly you think only the right has figured that out. Very confusing assumption.

The specs on that sub say otherwise, I don't know many car audio guys building 10cuft boxes just to make that thing sound good, or better yet 20cuft boxes to put it in the ideal box. Odd to make a car audio sub require a box as big as the car. I think you just heard some fake news and ran with it on this one.

MalVeauX built a couple of the same subs, they were also sealed, something I said was an important part of my build. You can call those subs anything you want but you clearly haven't looked at the specs on them if you're calling them car audio subs.

 

[Tankini]

Unless you know something I don't an 18" sub powered by the 250 watt plate amp I linked isn't going to actually bring the house down. In general my thinking is it's allowing me the most flexibility and I would rather one 18" moving 1/2" than a couple of 10s moving 2" as the 18" is just not going to have to work so hard. I'm also not going to have to go through a ton of effort to get down to 20hz for home theater. The 18" honestly was just a much better value than any other option.

Never ever have I stated on Any subject matter I personally am an Expert and or do I have an BS (bachelor of science degree) in EE of audio, on this thread alone. What I do bring to the table is, a Whole lot of practical experience with this hobby.

Trial and error, with audio over decades in this audio/video hobby<analogy. Has cost me money lots of it that would have been better spent by Researching, asking One/'s that actually are In this. Experts? Dennis Murphy comes to mind, Gene, TLS Guy, PENG Edited: How could I forget> Shady J>James, AH speaker Guru. even the commenter AH member you're sparring with now. (isolar8001)

I don't know well but is knowledgeable, @isolar8001. The very first reply is from him. That post/comment is an honest opinion and thoughts on the subject matter of your thread that you started.

You should have stopped there but others tried, then including me who knows very little about sub home build (do it yourself). Not that I do not have the common sense to understand only because I haven't done it myself personally. (DIY) build.

Now Mark AKA TLS Guy is very knowledgeable. You would be the better taking Mark's advice on that Sub build your thinking of. I have tried car auto Subs in one of my setups before. Way back 80's it was a horrible experience but a learning experience.

It's Your money, Your setup, I won't knock or post up on Your thread any political slide after all this is about subwoofers. That would be pointless but that's me, others may not believe so. Enjoy your audio Any Way you feel like!! Welcome to the Rabbit hole!! Casing that White Rabbit, as Mark stated is a waste of time. Best of luck with your build I'm out. Chrees!!

 

[TucsonAZ]

Never ever have I stated on Any subject matter I personally am an Expert and or do I have an BS (bachelor of science degree) in EE of audio, on this thread alone. What I do bring to the table is, a Whole lot of practical experience with this hobby.

Trial and error, with audio over decades in this audio/video hobby<analogy. Has cost me money lots of it that would have been better spent by Researching, asking One/'s that actually are In this. Experts? Dennis Murphy comes to mind, Gene, TLS Guy, PENG Edited: How could I forget> Shady J>James, AH speaker Guru. even the commenter AH member you're spoiling with now.

I don't know well but is knowledgeable, @isolar8001. The very first reply is from him. That post/comment is an honest opinion and thoughts on the subject matter of your thread that you started.

You should have stopped there but others tried, then including me who knows very little about sub home build (do it yourself). Only because, not that I do not have the common sense to understand only because I haven't done it myself personally.

Now Mark AKA TLS Guy is very knowledgeable. You would be the better taking Mark's advice on that Sub build your thinking of. I have tried car auto Subs in one of my setups before. Way back 80's it was a horrible experience but a learning experience.

It's Your money, Your setup, I won't knock or post up on Your thread any political slide after all this is about subwoofers. That would be pointless but that's me, others may not believe so. Enjoy your audio Any Way you feel like!! Welcome to the Rabbit hole!! Casing that White Rabbit, as Mark stated is a waste of time. Best of luck with your build I'm out. Chrees!!

Thanks for all of that and to everybody that posted, commented, had thoughts on the topic. @isolar8001 had some good insights on the first page and because of him I canceled the speakers I'd purchased. There were some specifics to my build that were important to me even if they didn't make complete sense. I live in a super dusty area and wanted a sealed enclosure in part for the reason. I also work with reptiles and almost never have an escape but I didn't want one more hiding place to worry about.

I saw this build:

StereoIntegrity HT18 V3 18" Sealed, Stackable...

www.avsforum.com

And it happened to be the exact thing I was looking for in every aspect. It was very well thought out and the build and was very detailed. Is the sub a lot, too much, just right, I don't really know but it was easy for me to copy that build and know I would have good results. I researched that sub a lot and people are incredibly pleased with it in the home theater world.

The last sub I owned was a Bob Carver Sunfire, I sold it because it was way more than I needed. I don't know how this 18" will compare but I have a volume adjustment for that reason.

I truly wasn't making a political comment, I feel like that could have just as easily been taken as an investor comment as it's no secret why CNN viewership is gone.

 

[isolar8001]

Never ever have I stated on Any subject matter I personally am an Expert and or do I have an BS (bachelor of science degree) in EE of audio, on this thread alone. What I do bring to the table is, a Whole lot of practical experience with this hobby.

Trial and error, with audio over decades in this audio/video hobby<analogy. Has cost me money lots of it that would have been better spent by Researching, asking One/'s that actually are In this. Experts? Dennis Murphy comes to mind, Gene, TLS Guy, PENG Edited: How could I forget> Shady J>James, AH speaker Guru. even the commenter AH member you're sparring with now. (isolar8001)

I don't know well but is knowledgeable, @isolar8001. The very first reply is from him. That post/comment is an honest opinion and thoughts on the subject matter of your thread that you started.

You should have stopped there but others tried, then including me who knows very little about sub home build (do it yourself). Not that I do not have the common sense to understand only because I haven't done it myself personally. (DIY) build.

Now Mark AKA TLS Guy is very knowledgeable. You would be the better taking Mark's advice on that Sub build your thinking of. I have tried car auto Subs in one of my setups before. Way back 80's it was a horrible experience but a learning experience.

It's Your money, Your setup, I won't knock or post up on Your thread any political slide after all this is about subwoofers. That would be pointless but that's me, others may not believe so. Enjoy your audio Any Way you feel like!! Welcome to the Rabbit hole!! Casing that White Rabbit, as Mark stated is a waste of time. Best of luck with your build I'm out. Chrees!!

Subwoofer design has different routes. The route the OP desires/ed is "better home fidelity" (he originally stated)
Car audio goes for "biggest bada boom" (generally).

The woofers the OP wants are car woofers...biggest giveaway is dual voice coils which are never needed for
home builds.
It's very possible that Stereo Integrity used a different cone in the "HT" version of their driver to improve the specs to be dual used in a home sub application. They just reused the whole frame/motor from the car only version.
What they have done is vague.

Ive seen the AVS builds using these woofers months ago...they are there because these woofers are cheap. Too cheap for a quality 18 inch driver. I get why tinkerer's want to play with them. Much of the post the OP links is how the builder did many modifications for the shortcomings of said driver.

In the OP's case, that Parts Express amp is way too underpowered to get that woofer moving in a sealed enclosure. When those woofers are used in car applications they are being hit with extremely high wattage/current car amps.

Here's a good lowdown of woofer specs for those interested.

"Fs is simply the resonance of the parts in a free air environment, in all honesty it is pretty much a worthless parameter.
It does not indicate the frequency response of a sub (lower Fs is not going to automatically "hit lower" contrary to popular belief) and Higher Fs does not mean that a sub will not "hit the low notes". A speaker simply does what you tell it to do in the environment that you put it in. Putting a High Fs subwoofer in a box tuned to 33Hz does not mean it is not going to play the frequency range from the Fs to tuning..and totally miss it. That is not how it works and is totally urban myth. It will do whatever you tell it to do, including destroy itself. Simply because it does not know any better.
Qts is the "overall Q" of the speaker, and is something that dictates motor force and what kind of enclosure a speaker should be in.
Low Qts woofers (say .35 and down) should be in a ported alignment only.
Mid Qts woofers (say .36 to . 45 or so) works well in a sealed or ported alignment.
High Qts woofers (say .46 and higher arbitrarily) works best in a sealed alignment. Again, these figures are arbitrary and what I feel/think is 'optimal' for a musical scenario and daily driving. This is not a law, it is simply what I think and is my opinion.
However, you can stick a high qts woofer in a ported enclosure..and get one heck of a peak out of it...and make it work great for SPL .
Qts is indicative of motor force as well. (Bl)
Lower Qts will allow more motor force, Higher QTS will not allow it.
Hope this helps."
October 4, 2011 by NDMstang65

If OP is serious about a sub, TLSGuys advice should be taken....he designed it to be balanced with the main system.

Of course CNN (why?) might think differently on all of this.

 

[isolar8001]

I live in a super dusty area and wanted a sealed enclosure in part for the reason. I also work with reptiles and almost never have an escape but I didn't want one more hiding place to worry about.

Port out the back and put a mesh screen with cloth over the port in that case.