Salk Sound is closing

[Dean Kurtz]

I know one thing, the Salk Sound Towers being the lower of the line sound great. They also do have pretty good specs.

Song Towers that is.

 

[Dean Kurtz]

Actually, everyone has been helpful on here to me. We do disagree on stuff, but I never take it personally. I spent the most I ever have on an integrated amp. And the least on a sacd player. But playing the new Steely Dan Aja sacd with those Salk speakers sounds awesome.

 

[KESM]

I’ve owned Salk Songtowers and Salk Veracity ST speakers. Both came with MDF plinths, ~1.5” thick, and are painted glossy black. The speakers were shipped without the plinths attached.

Mounting hardware included 4 large hex head lag screws and washers per cabinet. If I remember correctly the screws were 3/8” x 5 or 6”. But I can’t be certain about those dimensions. The hex head fit into a half inch socket wrench. Jim also included directions on to attach the plinths to the bottoms of the cabinets. Everything was pre-drilled and easy to do.

Because the plinths were painted black, it’s possible that the paint has adhered to the cabinet bottom. These plinths, once detached, can easily be sanded and repainted.

These plinths are wider and longer than the base of the speaker cabinets. Being solid MDF, heavy & large, they provide plenty of stability for the speakers. I don’t see any need to replace them with a third-party speaker stand. It’s redundant.

I agree… the plinths out of the box are fine ‘as is’. I don’t imply that anyone should change the plinths for that reason alone. The only reason that I would do so is to have a local woodworker design a pair in walnut to match the finish on my Encores. See pic for example. I love that uniform look. I wish I had taken advantage of that option for my Encores when I ordered; especially now…given Salk Sound is no more.

 

[KESM]

This forum is a public forum that focuses on audio & HT. Many people, both knowledgeable & newbies, read it. Some regulars around here want to see a forum that provides useful info to others. TLS Guy is one of them.

You can buy whatever you like and spend whatever you like. But if you make claims about items that improve the sound quality of your speakers, you will be challenged to provide convincing evidence about it. All I read in your lengthy posts (they were too long to read them all) was that you believe your own opinion is evidence enough. You should not be surprised that you were challenged.

My initial post pertained to a question as to whether a plinth was removable from the Encores. I didn’t make any claim relative to the GAIA isolators other than to state minor plinth damage during the installation. Which in retrospect was nothing more than the inset stripping inside of the wood plinth. I fixed it by inserting slightly larger ones (1/4) such that the inset doesn’t spin when a screw/bolt is inserted/fastened.

I could be wrong…but in my experience separating the plinths from a wooden floor will reduce the rattling/vibration into my space. The GAIA isolators may have been interpreted as being the only method of doing so (from my post). I don’t think so. I couldn’t locate the ones (plinth risers) that came with my Encores…and even if I did…I have hardwood floors. I didn’t want to use spikes as a result. Any pegs/risers that can bolt/screw into those four holes, to suspend the plinths above a hard surface, will likely do.

At any rate…I found proof to satisfy my initial concern of removing the plinths. I do have the desire to have the plinths made out of walnut to match or play off the finish on the Encores. It’s desired but in no way am I stating either mod will improve the sound of the Encores. These are designed well enough for me. Adding the isolators was just my method of getting the plinths off the hardwood floor in an effort to reduce the transfer of the energy (for lack of a better description) from the room. I think it worked (placebo effect or not—I can’t say). I can say…one can do so but only if they have a similar issue…but there are other ways to do so. To what effect it helps or hinders I’m uncertain. I found a pic of my Encores that I took when I received ‘em. I was hesitant to remove ‘em because after I unscrewed ‘em from the base…the plinths appeared ‘stuck’. So I reached out to other Salk Encores owners (absent of the pic I later recalled and recently discovered) to get a ‘yup’ or ‘nope’ after receiving no response from Jim regarding the possibility of a replacement plinth.

 

[everettT]

My initial post pertained to a question as to whether a plinth was removable from the Encores. I didn’t make any claim relative to the GAIA isolators other than to state minor damage during the installation. Which in retrospect was nothing more than the inset stripping inside of the wood plinth. I fixed it by inserting slightly larger ones (1/4) such that the inset doesn’t spin when a screw/bolt is inserted/fastened.

I could be wrong…but in my experience separating the plinths from a wooden floor will reduce the rattling/vibration into my space. The GAIA isolators may have been interpreted as being the only method from my post. I don’t think so. I couldn’t locate the ones that came with my Encores and even if I did I have hardwood floors. I didn’t want to use spikes as a result. Any pegs that can bolt/screw into those four holes to suspend the plinths above a hard surface will likely do.

At any rate…I found proof to satisfy my initial concern of removing the plinths. I do have the desire to have the plinths made out of walnut to match or play off the finish on the Encores. It’s desired but in no way am I stating either mod will improve the sound of the Encores. These are designed well enough for me. Adding the isolators was just my method of getting the plinths off the hardwood floor in an effort to reduce the transfer of the energy (for lack of a better description) from the room. I think it worked (placebo effect or not—I can’t say). I can say…one can do so but only if they have a similar issue…but there are other ways to do so. To what effect it helps or hinders I’m uncertain. I found a pic of my Encores that I took when I received ‘em. I was hesitant to remove ‘em because after I unscrewed ‘em from the base…the plinths appeared ‘stuck’. So I reached out to other Salk Encores owners (absent of the pic I had and recently discovered) to get a ‘yup’ or ‘nope’ after receiving no response from Jim regarding the possibility of a replacement plinth.

You have the OG Encore with the Transducer Labs tweeter.. sometimes it's hard to answer questions because the design may change and with the Encore, at least 3 times. You can try heat to see if that loosens the adhesive a bit, but don't keep the gun/dryer it in one place too long. The height of tweeter in the 3 Encore is just right for my furniture and the vertical response is good enough to be a little forgiving, I just wouldn't raise them too much higher, IMHO.

 

[ryanosaur]

My initial post pertained to a question as to whether a plinth was removable from the Encores. I didn’t make any claim relative to the GAIA isolators other than to state minor plinth damage during the installation. Which in retrospect was nothing more than the inset stripping inside of the wood plinth. I fixed it by inserting slightly larger ones (1/4) such that the inset doesn’t spin when a screw/bolt is inserted/fastened.

I could be wrong…but in my experience separating the plinths from a wooden floor will reduce the rattling/vibration into my space. The GAIA isolators may have been interpreted as being the only method of doing so (from my post). I don’t think so. I couldn’t locate the ones (plinth risers) that came with my Encores…and even if I did…I have hardwood floors. I didn’t want to use spikes as a result. Any pegs/risers that can bolt/screw into those four holes, to suspend the plinths above a hard surface, will likely do.

At any rate…I found proof to satisfy my initial concern of removing the plinths. I do have the desire to have the plinths made out of walnut to match or play off the finish on the Encores. It’s desired but in no way am I stating either mod will improve the sound of the Encores. These are designed well enough for me. Adding the isolators was just my method of getting the plinths off the hardwood floor in an effort to reduce the transfer of the energy (for lack of a better description) from the room. I think it worked (placebo effect or not—I can’t say). I can say…one can do so but only if they have a similar issue…but there are other ways to do so. To what effect it helps or hinders I’m uncertain. I found a pic of my Encores that I took when I received ‘em. I was hesitant to remove ‘em because after I unscrewed ‘em from the base…the plinths appeared ‘stuck’. So I reached out to other Salk Encores owners (absent of the pic I later recalled and recently discovered) to get a ‘yup’ or ‘nope’ after receiving no response from Jim regarding the possibility of a replacement plinth.

FWIW, I have suspended wood floors that are prone to vibrating with conducted energy. In my situation, it is somewhat extreme; even a light footstep can make it look like a minor earthquake is happening.
When it comes to making the choice to pursue isolation, the main thing is that you experiment a little. If you do detect excess rattling due to a transference of physical energy through the Speaker to the structure of the house, then yes, it is absolutely worth pursuing.

If you have hard wood floors, the Gaia may be the best option. I don't say that as a supporter of their product. There are other ways to tackle the problem that may cost a lot less, but that is another story.

For hardwood floors, the Gaia feet are supposed to be anti-marking. Most other solutions like the SVS Soundpath feet, while very effective, contain chemicals which will leave marks on wood.

Conversely, Spikes DO NOT isolate. Spikes COUPLE whatever is on them to the floor. Real Spikes are meant to be used on Carpeting and should penetrate the carpet to rest solidly on the floorboard. At this point it is all about stability, not isolation.

In order to isolate effectively on carpet, and get stability, you would want a damping platform which could couple to the floor with Spikes, then use isolation between the speaker and the platform.

Having lightly followed this thread, I know that this is beyond the actual scope of the problem you may have... IIRC, you are on wood floors. If the Gaia feet are successful at stopping your vibrations, cool.

If you want to pursue a new Plinth base for cosmetic purposes, cool too. An experienced woodworker should be able to solve the problem. That said, I would recommend removing the Drivers from the Speaker before sending them out to a workshop, as this might become a larger project than you think! If you do choose to pursue and need to send the Speaker out, as you remove the Drivers, make certain to mark the leads to each driver so that installing them again can be done easily and with no risk of cross wiring the Drivers. (Of course, removing Drivers can be tricky, too, but can be done at very minimal risk as long as you are patient and know a few tricks.)

Good luck!

 

[MrBoat]

I agree wholeheartedly. We’ve lost our ability to disagree without name calling and being presumptive about someone’s choice's…& maybe even their mistakes. Calling someones’s choice foolery is unreasonable given it’s all foolery to those would don’t partake in this hobby that some folks would consider extravagant. Most folks (not all) purchase Sony AVRs (and Polks) & call it a day. I know when I started out…I did. There’s nothing wrong or foolish about either path.

I think if you’ve purchased from Jim you’re seeking custom level gear. I suspect that means you’re in the deep end of the (foolery) pool…depending on one’s relative perspective.
The fact that Jim is exiting the stage may suggest many things…competition….a race to the bottom…in terms of the perceived value over the quality of goods…who knows? My main concern is that those who’ve enjoyed Jim’s work over the years will have to find other avenues of servicing if needed.

I don’t know know Jim personally…but he’s aided me with (3) purchases over the years (WOW1, SILK monitors, & the Encore 3s). He was patient, listened to my concerns, & even gave me service advice. We’re losing craftsmen & artisans that make products that are well built. We’re losing the people who have the capacity to provide service with humanity. It’s all boiling down to what’s the cheapest thing that one can afford…& anything that may stretch a wallet is scorned. I have value pieces in my set up. There’s room for both.

Anyway…I by no means meant to drag down this forum with garbage. I apologize to all if my response/exchange dampened the room (no pun intended) to what is otherwise a productive exchange between owners of Salk Speakers….& we cannot exclude the amazing crossover work by Dennis Murphy. I’m thankful there were and are people out there who are passionate about their work and we get to purchase it…& enjoy it in our homes. It has been therapeutic for me.

Peace to all

As a DIY speaker kit builder, I have followed Dennis' and Salk's work. They have crossed into that field. Most DIY'rs know of them. One can find conversations between them and some well known kit designers in related forum archives from way back. Salk had their version of Jeff Bagby's (another well known pro/am designer) "Continuum" design. The fact that Salk would include them in his catalog, gave me confidence to purchase the kit, beside the fact I already had another Bagby design in my collection. The name added a certain pedigree to the design for me. It was a good choice. These people are part of a network of loudspeaker aficionados that have managed to inspire me to build 7 pairs of speakers, 5 subwoofers, and restore (currently) yet another. I liked having that resource around and am a Salk fan, albeit indirectly.

Loudspeakers are my #1 equipment interest. I have a home full of speakers and amps. My friends definitely think I'm looney with all this. I think the same of them with their cell phone fetish, even though their addiction is obviously and visibly worse. I can put my hobby away for hours each day, while they will suffer anxiety if they misplace, or detach from their phone for 5 mins.

The internet is managing to water down the notion of craftsmanship. We have builders and manufacturers claiming/accepting full craftsman credit, for products that were mostly conceived and spit out from computer aided everything, right down to the cutting of the parts. What perpetuates these falsehoods even further, is a majority of a population that has been removed from anything remotely resembling handiwork of any kind. Handiwork now includes pre-manufactured/finished parts, along with the included disposable hex wrenches that come with it. These people are who is hyping so much of these cookie-cutter operations up, as if they would know the difference, having never picked up a power tool, or even mowed a yard, for that matter.

I've been in the high-end craftsmanship trades for over 40 years, climbing to journeyman or higher levels. This new wave of so-called artisan/craftsmanship to someone like me, is not only underwhelming, but disappointing as well. So many things are indeed overpriced for what they are. This false hype is what helps drive prices up and quality down. Priced as if some pedigreed artisan had touched every part of the construction, while the opposite is true.

Salk was an exception to the falsely hyped craftsman world and fairly priced, to boot. There was still something hands-on quality with their products. It gives it a certain high value feel/look that cannot be had any other way. As such, I try to surround myself with handmade things, at least with prized possessions that can be handed down, and not found anywhere else at any price. I was saddened to see the business close, but yet it should have gone that way, instead of being picked up and watered down to more efficient production means and standards by some computer driven business efficiency hack. The products that remain in the field, should certainly hold their value, at least to those that own them and fans that luck into them in the used market further down the road.

A fine furniture builder restorer could likely fix your issue. There are even people who can paint just about any faux wood type perfectly. I worked with such a man. He taught me how to create/match custom colors back when most wood trim and furniture were treated with oil or lacquer based coatings. He could even do quarter-sawn white oak. Otherwise, there is no guarantee that even if you do find someone or some way to replace the bases, that they will match the walnut on the rest of the speaker, and may look just as noticeably different as the painted ones, just for grain orientation alone. Things like that, we try to use pieces of the same tree the rest of it came from, if we can.

 

[Swerd]

I could be wrong…but in my experience separating the plinths from a wooden floor will reduce the rattling/vibration into my space. The GAIA isolators may have been interpreted as being the only method of doing so (from my post). I don’t think so. I couldn’t locate the ones (plinth risers) that came with my Encores…and even if I did…I have hardwood floors. I didn’t want to use spikes as a result. Any pegs/risers that can bolt/screw into those four holes, to suspend the plinths above a hard surface, will likely do.

I finally looked up Gaia II isolators. They look like elaborately built rubber feet, 2" diameter, that screw into the existing threaded sockets for speaker spikes. It is possible that those 2" wide feet make a difference. But I can neither confirm that nor rule it out, To me they are obscenely expensive.

If screw-in rubber feat are what you want, instead of spikes, see the wide variety that are available – at significantly lower cost. I searched for rubber feet ¼" × 20 thread on Amazon. If I remember correctly, the threaded inserts installed by Salk were ¼" × 20.

 

[KESM]

I finally looked up Gaia II isolators. They look like elaborately built rubber feet, 2" diameter, that screw into the existing threaded sockets for speaker spikes. It is possible that those 2" wide feet make a difference. But I can neither confirm that nor rule it out, To me they are obscenely expensive.

If screw-in rubber feat are what you want, instead of spikes, see the wide variety that are available – at significantly lower cost. I searched for rubber feet ¼" × 20 thread on Amazon. If I remember correctly, the threaded inserts installed by Salk were ¼" × 20.

I agree. There are likely cheaper solutions for folks to try. Barring cost…I was speaking on resolve of the plinth being separated from the floor.

 

[KESM]

FWIW, I have suspended wood floors that are prone to vibrating with conducted energy. In my situation, it is somewhat extreme; even a light footstep can make it look like a minor earthquake is happening.
When it comes to making the choice to pursue isolation, the main thing is that you experiment a little. If you do detect excess rattling due to a transference of physical energy through the Speaker to the structure of the house, then yes, it is absolutely worth pursuing.

If you have hard wood floors, the Gaia may be the best option. I don't say that as a supporter of their product. There are other ways to tackle the problem that may cost a lot less, but that is another story.

For hardwood floors, the Gaia feet are supposed to be anti-marking. Most other solutions like the SVS Soundpath feet, while very effective, contain chemicals which will leave marks on wood.

Conversely, Spikes DO NOT isolate. Spikes COUPLE whatever is on them to the floor. Real Spikes are meant to be used on Carpeting and should penetrate the carpet to rest solidly on the floorboard. At this point it is all about stability, not isolation.

In order to isolate effectively on carpet, and get stability, you would want a damping platform which could couple to the floor with Spikes, then use isolation between the speaker and the platform.

Having lightly followed this thread, I know that this is beyond the actual scope of the problem you may have... IIRC, you are on wood floors. If the Gaia feet are successful at stopping your vibrations, cool.

If you want to pursue a new Plinth base for cosmetic purposes, cool too. An experienced woodworker should be able to solve the problem. That said, I would recommend removing the Drivers from the Speaker before sending them out to a workshop, as this might become a larger project than you think! If you do choose to pursue and need to send the Speaker out, as you remove the Drivers, make certain to mark the leads to each driver so that installing them again can be done easily and with no risk of cross wiring the Drivers. (Of course, removing Drivers can be tricky, too, but can be done at very minimal risk as long as you are patient and know a few tricks.)

Good luck!

I would only send the plinth out for replication of it by a woodworker (leaving everything else in tact).

 

[Alex2507]

To me they are obscenely expensive.

I bet they isolate like a motherfucker.

 

[KESM]

They made a notable difference, in a positive way, in my room (bonus room with wooden floors above a garage space). Is it worth it? I cannot say for others…you can make a case either way I suppose. For me…the answer is yes. I don’t set the prices on anything that I purchase (owners do)…that’s another topic…along with how much one should ‘reasonably spend’ in terms of how people label items cheap/affordable or expensive/cost prohibitive. I find it’s akin to one’s income and what they’re comfortable with spending. When Jim quoted the price on Salk Silk monitors that I purchased years ago…I was stunned. However…down the stretch I’ve grown to appreciate what I purchased…particularly if I find it to be effective in use. So much so that I went on to purchase the Encores based on my experience with the Salk Silk monitors (later sold)…& before that I had the WOW1 monitor (but returned ‘em). I’ve since settled down with the Encores in my rig. There have been cases that value priced items worked effectively as well. So no one size fits all…case by case. It’s a journey.

Audio equipment and accessories are not without subjectivity stemming from varied opinions…or relativity…based on personal experiences…to include the room set up and the actual equipment in use in your particular system (synergy). I understand some see certain items in a certain way. All good…I’m not here to flip anyone’s opinion. Just sharing my narrow/specific experience.

My personal conclusion…the GAIA II resolved my issue by effectively decoupling the Salk Encores (plinth) from a wooden floor surface. I’m uncertain what the subfloor is made out of …I suspect some manner of wood. This is likely why the transfer of the low end energy rattled the space to some degree. In that regard the GAIA II resolved my problem.
If there are ‘cheaper’ solutions and someone has applied them with effective results…let them ring a bell here and share in this space or with other enthusiast locally. I don’t want folks to think what I’ve stated is the only way to fix a similar problem. You have to try stuff and if it doesn’t resolve…send it back if the seller allows. I’ve rotated gear over my 30 plus years in this hobby (some effective some not). I’m just now getting to a place where fine tuning is all that’s left (seemingly).

Peace to all

 

[lovinthehd]

They made a notable difference, in a positive way, in my room (bonus room with wooden floors above a garage space). Is it worth it? I cannot say for others…you can make a case either way I suppose. For me…the answer is yes. I don’t set the prices on anything that I purchase (owners do)…that’s another topic…along with how much one should ‘reasonably spend’ in terms of how people label items cheap/affordable or expensive/cost prohibitive. I find it’s akin to one’s income and what they’re comfortable with spending. When Jim quoted the price on Salk Silk monitors that I purchased years ago…I was stunned. However…down the stretch I’ve grown to appreciate what I purchased…particularly if I find it to be effective in use. So much so that I went on to purchase the Encores based on my experience with the Salk Silk monitors (later sold)…& before that I had the WOW1 monitor (but returned ‘em). I’ve since settled down with the Encores in my rig. There have been cases that value priced items worked effectively as well. So no one size fits all…case by case. It’s a journey.

Audio equipment and accessories are not without subjectivity stemming from varied opinions…or relativity…based on personal experiences…to include the room set up and the actual equipment in use in your particular system (synergy). I understand some see certain items in a certain way. All good…I’m not here to flip anyone’s opinion. Just sharing my narrow/specific experience.

My personal conclusion…the GAIA II resolved my issue by effectively decoupling the Salk Encores (plinth) from a wooden floor surface. I’m uncertain what the subfloor is made out of …I suspect some manner of wood. This is likely why the transfer of the low end energy rattled the space to some degree. In that regard the GAIA II resolved my problem.
If there are ‘cheaper’ solutions and someone has applied them with effective results…let them ring a bell here and share in this space or with other enthusiast locally. I don’t want folks to think what I’ve stated is the only way to fix a similar problem. You have to try stuff and if it doesn’t resolve…send it back if the seller allows. I’ve rotated gear over my 30 plus years in this hobby (some effective some not). I’m just now getting to a place where fine tuning is all that’s left (seemingly).

Peace to all

Of course there are cheaper isolation solutions than Gaia....even with just some household materials (long term aesthetics perhaps not so much). I'd never buy Gaia, tho.

 

[Dean Kurtz]

I have a different situation as I don't have a floor that carries the vibrations. I do not have carpet though. I pull my speakers out each time I listen since my wife does not like them sticking out at an angle. I found a cheap way that works for me. I just put those furniture felt pads on the bottom and they slide really easy every time I move them. I know that would not work for your situation, but it's easier than arguing with the wife for me and leaving them in the perfect position.