Motorcycle turn signal wiring project question

Squishman

Squishman

Audioholic General
I am adding turn signal wiring to my motorcycle. The bike's builder had eliminated them. So I am doing it from scratch. I have all the parts I need. But I have one slight hang-up. First, I am hooking it all up on a card table with a 12v battery just to visually see my wiring and to test everything. Attached is a screenshot from a video I am heavily relying on. I am no engineer, but I can solder, crimp and follow directions. I have the flasher and the two relays plus everything else he suggests in the video. One difference is I am not using 1157 bubs. I am using L.E.D. bulbs if it matters. Also, I am not using a two-way conventional toggle switch. I have a handlebar switch that also incorporates a horn button. My hang-up is this: I have this speedo arriving today: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07YMTRZZY?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details
It has an indicator light for the turn signals. Speedo turn signal indicator wires are: yellow wire is +, yellow/black is neg.
Can anyone tell me how to tie these in to the wiring diagram I attached?
 

Attachments

Squishman

Squishman

Audioholic General
I am wondering if I can use the speedo indicator light, since I will be using 2 circuits. Seems I cannot.
 
lovinthehd

lovinthehd

Audioholic Jedi
If I were to add such to my emoto dirt bike, there are kits you can buy that include everything.....but building your own sounds interesting, particularly getting it to work with your speedo....so tuning in to see how it works out. Good luck!
 
Squishman

Squishman

Audioholic General
So it seems I can do this with a couple of diodes. I don't know what diodes however. Looks like each diode would be tied into yellow from the relays.
 
Squishman

Squishman

Audioholic General
If I were to add such to my emoto dirt bike, there are kits you can buy that include everything.....but building your own sounds interesting, particularly getting it to work with your speedo....so tuning in to see how it works out. Good luck!
I am getting there! Also adding a neutral light and a handful of other things. The turn signal kits you can buy are terrible. Just pure junk.
 
lovinthehd

lovinthehd

Audioholic Jedi
Looking forward to your walk-around video showing the various turn signal/brake functions!
 
Squishman

Squishman

Audioholic General
Looking forward to your walk-around video showing the various turn signal/brake functions!
Sounds good. It'll be a little while. I have several projects to do on it. I haven't even started it up since I test rode it. The exhaust is custom made, but too loud. I have a couple of db killers I am going to try inside the slip-on muffer. I found some great turn signal light provisions for the front and the back. Plus some very cool-looking lights. I just put a new back tire on it. He only put a rear brake light on it. Fortunatly, there is a front brake light switch. I will connect that. There are so many little projects. I have to figure out most as I go along.
 
TLS Guy

TLS Guy

Seriously, I have no life.
Sounds good. It'll be a little while. I have several projects to do on it. I haven't even started it up since I test rode it. The exhaust is custom made, but too loud. I have a couple of db killers I am going to try inside the slip-on muffer. I found some great turn signal light provisions for the front and the back. Plus some very cool-looking lights. I just put a new back tire on it. He only put a rear brake light on it. Fortunatly, there is a front brake light switch. I will connect that. There are so many little projects. I have to figure out most as I go along.
You will need the correct flasher unit for LED bulbs. The reason is that it is the current that heats up the bi-metallic strip the causes it to flash. The current for LED bulbs is only a fraction of the current of incandescent bulbs.

Wiring is simple. Here is a circuit.

 
Squishman

Squishman

Audioholic General
You will need the correct flasher unit for LED bulbs. The reason is that it is the current that heats up the bi-metallic strip the causes it to flash. The current for LED bulbs is only a fraction of the current of incandescent bulbs.

Wiring is simple. Here is a circuit.

Very good to know! Can you help me identify the correct flasher so I make sure I get the correct one? Your diagram has no relays. Are they nessesary for my plans?
 
Squishman

Squishman

Audioholic General
I just remembered, I have a variable flasher that came in a kit. I'll take a picture of it later today. Maybe that one is correct.
 
Squishman

Squishman

Audioholic General
So, last night, I connected everything (with the wrong flasher) on a card table. The lights lit fine, but no flash! I attributed that to poor connection as I did not not crimp anything. I disconnected it all. Now I know it was because I had the wrong flasher! The other flasher I have that came in a cheap kit says "Lamp-LED is general 12.8v 0.1w -150w c/m, about dodges three times" Whatever that means! It is a variable flasher, which might be nice. Three pins, L, B, E. I did some checking and it appears I connect B-12v, L- load, which in my case is two leads to the 30 pins on my relays, and E to ground.
 
TLS Guy

TLS Guy

Seriously, I have no life.
So, last night, I connected everything (with the wrong flasher) on a card table. The lights lit fine, but no flash! I attributed that to poor connection as I did not not crimp anything. I disconnected it all. Now I know it was because I had the wrong flasher! The other flasher I have that came in a cheap kit says "Lamp-LED is general 12.8v 0.1w -150w c/m, about dodges three times" Whatever that means! It is a variable flasher, which might be nice. Three pins, L, B, E. I did some checking and it appears I connect B-12v, L- load, which in my case is two leads to the 30 pins on my relays, and E to ground.
You really are trying to make a three course gourmet dinner out of a piece of bread and butter. This is really simple, and yes you can easily use two or three pin flashers.

Here is a 2 pin LED flasher. I linked the circuit for that in my last post for you.

Here is a 3 pin flasher.

Here is the circuit for the three pin flasher.




You don't want to solder for car auto, it corrodes in that application and you should NOT do that. You need a car electrical crimp set.
 
Last edited:
highfigh

highfigh

Seriously, I have no life.
You really are trying to make a three course gourmet dinner out of a piece of bread and butter. This is really simple, and yes you can easily but two or three pin flashers.

Here is a 2 pin LED flasher. I linked the circuit for that in my last post for you.

Here is a 3 pin flasher.

Here is the circuit for the three pin flasher.




You don't want to solder for car auto, it corrodes in that application and you should NOT do that. You need a car electrical crimp set.
Or, a much smaller quantity of terminals and a decent stripper/crimper, which my Gardner Bender stripper crimper is- I used the ones that weren't made of Stainless, but they wore out after about a year. I started using the type in the link and haven't need to replace, just add another to have more than one tool set. It not only cuts, crimps and strips wires, it also has threaded holes for cutting screws. The coax crimper is only for the non-compression ends and personally, I wouldn't use that because it would require too much hand strength. In the decades of using this type of tool, have made hundreds of thousands of connections with wire & terminals of various gauges and terminal types and it works very well. I had a Panduit similar to the one in your link and the metal cracked just behind the dies. Fortunately for me, Panduit was bought by Greenlee and they replaced it, close to 20 years after the old one failed. That was above and beyond, IMO.

 
Squishman

Squishman

Audioholic General
Just picking up info as I go along to make this right. So thanks for the help! I definitly need it. Bread and butter, I can do without a recipe. After using a very cheap crimper that required hand strength for multiple decades mainly for car stereo installation, a couple years ago I bought this one. Although I bought it from Menards I think and the brand is Giant Viking. I think it's the same one. https://www.amazon.com/Klein-Tools-Ratcheting-Crimper-10-22/dp/B07WMB61J5/ref=sr_1_6?crid=287KUH5LR45FL&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.HjP0nAnaBgs85bXST0ydh3lY9jfhBHwjVlgMy1r8cT0FXVUtm_SDUsHvww55Smvjh80j_7KdI0rvVrY1OzVh98qwatPhRNrL3S0USZaNO-ZE2viMukI2wuVefmXAgWFhFfjvVctmU8_4e0t6awrTPhjSsaNgIItTNwAM5bNY9reey0svpHKmiI6pKHPrTEsZj2RLaAQcXZ_vj8GBMFcX7EX5lqBwjqxblArlXCJFc6iMAd0A8ZO4hEqDlge5qkCKjF_O1x3AaCIbvtIafJchpcEA-KoGUKnnOCrS-zAVKKM.sV-B59A7bQ1vSUtsrQm-R41mMcsliXrPDoKM9n5VFuE&dib_tag=se&keywords=crimper+tool&qid=1712172283&sprefix=crimper,aps,136&sr=8-6&th=1
 
Squishman

Squishman

Audioholic General
I didn't do much for the turn signals today. I work full time, so I can only dabble in it on weekdays. The front clamp mounts did not fit my fork tubes. My fault. I ordered different brackets that'll work better and look better anyway. Also ordered some different colors of 18 ga wire and wire tubing. Like for the horn and various lights. Made an 8 ga. ground strap battery to chassis. But, I got the exhaust sound dialed in today. Sounds really good, but not so loud. First time I started it since I test rode it and it started like it ran yesterday.
 
Squishman

Squishman

Audioholic General
You really are trying to make a three course gourmet dinner out of a piece of bread and butter. This is really simple, and yes you can easily use two or three pin flashers.

Here is a 2 pin LED flasher. I linked the circuit for that in my last post for you.

Here is a 3 pin flasher.

Here is the circuit for the three pin flasher.




You don't want to solder for car auto, it corrodes in that application and you should NOT do that. You need a car electrical crimp set.
I'll use the cheap variable flasher first. If it doesn't work or there are problemss with it, I'll get the one you linked to.
 
TLS Guy

TLS Guy

Seriously, I have no life.
I'll use the cheap variable flasher first. If it doesn't work or there are problemss with it, I'll get the one you linked to.
Unless it is marked for LED use it won't work and you will be wasting your time.

The variable flashers work the same way as the non variable. It still is the current through the bi-metallic strip that causes it to flash. The variable control just alters the tension on the strip. So more tension faster flash, less tension slower.

You really need to keep the ingredients for this meal down to the minimum. Simplicity is your friend on this one, so don't make it complicated.
 

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