Need help with Rek-O-Kut Rodine Jr Wiring Setup

[Lrstevens]

Hi there, Back in the 50's my father built a stereo cabinet and installed a Fisher Receiver, Fisher Pre-Amp, Fisher Multiplexer, Rek-O-Kut Rodine Jr turn table and 15" JBL Speakers. He passed away in 2000 and it has been sitting without use ever since. I take that back, I believe I did play a record in 2002. Unfortunately, the tube receiver, pre-amp & multiplexer no longer power up. I'm assuming it'll be too costly to get everything working again so I've opted to just leave his hand built stereo cabinet and equipment intact as a show piece. I would however like to still use the Rek-O-Kut turn table. I thought I could just hook it up to one of my spare receivers but there appears to be a RED wire that I don't know what it is or where it goes. Since the Rek-O-Kut is built into the cabinet I cannot see where the cables come from. Coming out of the cabinet from the Rek-O-Kut are 4 cables. There's the AC Power Cord, two RCA cables (not color coded - both same gray color) and a thin RED wire. I don't know where the RED wire was attached to as it became detached from the receiver/amp. Also, as for the two RCA connectors I'm assuming they just connect to the PHONO INPUT on my receiver (same as any other turn table), however since neither have a RED or WHITE designator does it matter? The only thing good so far are the two JBL speakers work great through my receiver!

 

[TLS Guy]

Hi there, Back in the 50's my father built a stereo cabinet and installed a Fisher Receiver, Fisher Pre-Amp, Fisher Multiplexer, Rek-O-Kut Rodine Jr turn table and 15" JBL Speakers. He passed away in 2000 and it has been sitting without use ever since. I take that back, I believe I did play a record in 2002. Unfortunately, the tube receiver, pre-amp & multiplexer no longer power up. I'm assuming it'll be too costly to get everything working again so I've opted to just leave his hand built stereo cabinet and equipment intact as a show piece. I would however like to still use the Rek-O-Kut turn table. I thought I could just hook it up to one of my spare receivers but there appears to be a RED wire that I don't know what it is or where it goes. Since the Rek-O-Kut is built into the cabinet I cannot see where the cables come from. Coming out of the cabinet from the Rek-O-Kut are 4 cables. There's the AC Power Cord, two RCA cables (not color coded - both same gray color) and a thin RED wire. I don't know where the RED wire was attached to as it became detached from the receiver/amp. Also, as for the two RCA connectors I'm assuming they just connect to the PHONO INPUT on my receiver (same as any other turn table), however since neither have a RED or WHITE designator does it matter? The only thing good so far are the two JBL speakers work great through my receiver!

So you know the power cord. The RCA cables are the left and right audio from the cartridge. I suspect that red lead should be green and is actually the ground lead, and should be connected to the grounding terminal on your receiver. You can confirm this with a multimeter and check that there is continuity from that cable to the turntable chassis and PU arm.

One thing that strikes me is the question of the age of the cartridge. What is it? My suspicion would be that its suspension has hardened over the years and or that the stylus is worn. More likely than not it needs a new cartridge.

There may be a unit missing, and that is the power amp. You list what I assume is a preamp, and an FM tuner. I suspect the tuner was before FM broadcasting, but that the tuner had a connection to add that multiplexer so you could receive stereo FM. There was a period in the fifties where that was common. But for that rig to work there should be a Fisher stereo power amp. I think you confused the receiver for an FM tuner.

There are people who will restore vintage electronics like that. They are much easier to work in and repair than gear bought yesterday at Best Buy or on line.

So I would explore restoration. Pictures would be very helpful and interesting.

 

[Lrstevens]

Thanks for responding and for the information. I am a novice and know nothing about stereo components so I got my terminology wrong. There are 3 pieces; The AM/FM Tuner, The Power Amp? and the Multiplexer. It would be nice to restore the units but there are so many cables I wouldn't even know where to start.

As for the turn table - It did cross my mind that the RED wire was probably the ground, but what threw me off was the color. Black, Brown or as you mentioned Green for ground, but RED? As for the two RCA cables, I figured they were for LEFT/RIGHT but with no color code to identify I guess it will be a 50/50 chance of getting it right.

And as for the stylist, I did not know there was a part of the cartridge that would dry out. After your mention I looked it up and I learned something new. The million dollar question is... what do I replace it with and where do I get one?

I was able to resize a couple photos I took. I would have taken better photos of the equipment but they're just what I had. I didn't get back there today to take better photos.

I saw your gallery of your system? That's one hell of a man cave!

 

[highfigh]

Hi there, Back in the 50's my father built a stereo cabinet and installed a Fisher Receiver, Fisher Pre-Amp, Fisher Multiplexer, Rek-O-Kut Rodine Jr turn table and 15" JBL Speakers. He passed away in 2000 and it has been sitting without use ever since. I take that back, I believe I did play a record in 2002. Unfortunately, the tube receiver, pre-amp & multiplexer no longer power up. I'm assuming it'll be too costly to get everything working again so I've opted to just leave his hand built stereo cabinet and equipment intact as a show piece. I would however like to still use the Rek-O-Kut turn table. I thought I could just hook it up to one of my spare receivers but there appears to be a RED wire that I don't know what it is or where it goes. Since the Rek-O-Kut is built into the cabinet I cannot see where the cables come from. Coming out of the cabinet from the Rek-O-Kut are 4 cables. There's the AC Power Cord, two RCA cables (not color coded - both same gray color) and a thin RED wire. I don't know where the RED wire was attached to as it became detached from the receiver/amp. Also, as for the two RCA connectors I'm assuming they just connect to the PHONO INPUT on my receiver (same as any other turn table), however since neither have a RED or WHITE designator does it matter? The only thing good so far are the two JBL speakers work great through my receiver!

The turntable can be removed by removing the screws around the perimeter and lifting gently- I would place something at the back edge, to prevent that panel sliding backward. You should be able to see the wire colors from the tonearm (they're extremely thin and fragile)- I would recommend photographs of any wires or cables before they're disconnected.

I have a tonearm like that one and the wires in the tonearm aren't the same colors as what have become the usual (Red, White, Green & Blue) but they have been twisted, to create pairs. If you have access to a multimeter, you can find which are for the left and right channels.

 

[TLS Guy]

Thanks for responding and for the information. I am a novice and know nothing about stereo components so I got my terminology wrong. There are 3 pieces; The AM/FM Tuner, The Power Amp? and the Multiplexer. It would be nice to restore the units but there are so many cables I wouldn't even know where to start.

As for the turn table - It did cross my mind that the RED wire was probably the ground, but what threw me off was the color. Black, Brown or as you mentioned Green for ground, but RED? As for the two RCA cables, I figured they were for LEFT/RIGHT but with no color code to identify I guess it will be a 50/50 chance of getting it right.

And as for the stylist, I did not know there was a part of the cartridge that would dry out. After your mention I looked it up and I learned something new. The million dollar question is... what do I replace it with and where do I get one?

I was able to resize a couple photos I took. I would have taken better photos of the equipment but they're just what I had. I didn't get back there today to take better photos.

I saw your gallery of your system? That's one hell of a man cave!

What you have is vintage tube gear. You have an FM/AM radio tuner and an integrated pre-amp/power/amp.

It looks as if your father mounted the turntable, that is the way they came back then.

I have no idea what cartridge you have. You will need to remove the headshell and get a photograph of the underneath.

Can you get a picture of that Multiplex decoder? I have feeling it might be a Sugden from the UK, but I'm far from sure.

That Fisher gear absolutely should be restored and not trashed. That is a rare find. If you don't want to do it, their collectors who would be glad of those units and restore them.

 

[highfigh]

Thanks for responding and for the information. I am a novice and know nothing about stereo components so I got my terminology wrong. There are 3 pieces; The AM/FM Tuner, The Power Amp? and the Multiplexer. It would be nice to restore the units but there are so many cables I wouldn't even know where to start.

As for the turn table - It did cross my mind that the RED wire was probably the ground, but what threw me off was the color. Black, Brown or as you mentioned Green for ground, but RED? As for the two RCA cables, I figured they were for LEFT/RIGHT but with no color code to identify I guess it will be a 50/50 chance of getting it right.

And as for the stylist, I did not know there was a part of the cartridge that would dry out. After your mention I looked it up and I learned something new. The million dollar question is... what do I replace it with and where do I get one?

I was able to resize a couple photos I took. I would have taken better photos of the equipment but they're just what I had. I didn't get back there today to take better photos.

I saw your gallery of your system? That's one hell of a man cave!

Can you post a photo of the piece in the middle? It looks like it may have a headphone jack. If it does and it's wired for stereo, that equipment would be from about '59 or '60.

 

[TLS Guy]

The turntable can be removed by removing the screws around the perimeter and lifting gently- I would place something at the back edge, to prevent that panel sliding backward. You should be able to see the wire colors from the tonearm (they're extremely thin and fragile)- I would recommend photographs of any wires or cables before they're disconnected.

I have a tonearm like that one and the wires in the tonearm aren't the same colors as what have become the usual (Red, White, Green & Blue) but they have been twisted, to create pairs. If you have access to a multimeter, you can find which are for the left and right channels.

You are right about that date. June I, 1961 was the date that stereo FM broadcasting was authorized in the US. However prior to that date and a bit after, units were sold "stereo ready". This happened as the final details were being worked out. So around that time units were sold with an output to go to a stereo decoder and return.

So that puts the date of those units a year to two before and possibly after. My guess is the same as yours though 1959 to 1962. The same thing happened in the UK, and A.R. Sugden developed and produced an external decoder. In the UK his were the only ones I remember seeing. I don't know if they made it to the US, but that unit looks suspiciously like one of his. We had one of his in the OP to connect to a Leak "Troughline" FM tuner, which was "stereo ready."

That is from when Fisher was really good equipment.

 

[highfigh]

You are right about that date. June I, 1961 was the date that stereo FM broadcasting was authorized in the US. However prior to that date and a bit after, units were sold "stereo ready". This happened as the final details were being worked out. So around that time units were sold with an output to go to a stereo decoder and return.

So that puts the date of those units a year to two before and possibly after. My guess is the same as yours though 1959 to 1962. The same thing happened in the UK, and A.R. Sugden developed and produced an external decoder. In the UK his were the only ones I remember seeing. I don't know if they made it to the US, but that unit looks suspiciously like one of his. We had one of his in the OP to connect to a Leak "Troughline" FM tuner, which was "stereo ready."

That is from when Fisher was really good equipment.

I wouldn't be surprised if some of the early technology was licensed, but with differences- was the original channel frequency assignment always different from what is used in the US?

I mentioned '50-'60 because John Koss created additional competition between Avery Fischer and Saul Marantz by telling one that the other had started including a stereo headphone jack on their equipment, not long before the New York Audio Show.

They're funky, but I'll post a photo of the headphones we got from John Koss around 1961. The Thomas organ my mom played had a headphone jack but it was mono and they installed a mono-stereo switch on the cord (or, replaced the cord is probably more accurate).

I have a Fischer receiver from the '70s- the sound is pretty 'dark' WRT high frequencies when comparing it with the sound from newer equipment, but it has pre-out/in jacks and other features that aren't seen often. Without comparing, it sounds good- I'll check the response with RTA and compare it with a different receiver when I have a chance.

 

[TLS Guy]

I wouldn't be surprised if some of the early technology was licensed, but with differences- was the original channel frequency assignment always different from what is used in the US?

I mentioned '50-'60 because John Koss created additional competition between Avery Fischer and Saul Marantz by telling one that the other had started including a stereo headphone jack on their equipment, not long before the New York Audio Show.

They're funky, but I'll post a photo of the headphones we got from John Koss around 1961. The Thomas organ my mom played had a headphone jack but it was mono and they installed a mono-stereo switch on the cord (or, replaced the cord is probably more accurate).

I have a Fischer receiver from the '70s- the sound is pretty 'dark' WRT high frequencies when comparing it with the sound from newer equipment, but it has pre-out/in jacks and other features that aren't seen often. Without comparing, it sounds good- I'll check the response with RTA and compare it with a different receiver when I have a chance.

Actually the frequencies were the same. The only difference was the demodulation constant. So to change from UK to US, usually just involves changing one cap.

 

[Lrstevens]

The turntable can be removed by removing the screws around the perimeter and lifting gently- I would place something at the back edge, to prevent that panel sliding backward. You should be able to see the wire colors from the tonearm (they're extremely thin and fragile)- I would recommend photographs of any wires or cables before they're disconnected.

I have a tonearm like that one and the wires in the tonearm aren't the same colors as what have become the usual (Red, White, Green & Blue) but they have been twisted, to create pairs. If you have access to a multimeter, you can find which are for the left and right channels.

I was able to access the underside of the turn table. I forgot about looking in the cabinet underneath. I was able to see all the wires and the RCA cables were labeled Left/Right. I was in utter shock to see what a shotty job my dad did grounding the motor. I couldn't believe he used an alligator clip from the motor to the soldered RED wire I mentioned earlier. Guess he was killing two birds with one stone on the ground - ground the motor and the arm together. The RED wire dangling with the alligator clip from the motor was just hanging and connected to anything. I removed the alligator clip and ran a separate ground wire.

Regarding the Rek-O-Kut - Initially the motor wouldn't turn at all. I hand rotated it in the opposite direction and felt resistance. It then started to move but barely, then very slowly. After about 5 minutes it took about 60 seconds to make one revolution @ 33 1/3 rpm and 45 sec @ 45 rpm. I left it on 45 and let it run for 10 minutes to see if it would come up to speed.

Even though TLS Guy mentioned the cartridge suspension was probably hardened for having sat so long I had to try it out to see how it would sound and whether the speed was correct. I tested a record with vocals to see if the speed was correct and it was pretty close. After 1 song the vocals sounded normal. The stylus is a Shure M44E. If the suspension is indeed dried up I'm assuming I'd have to replace the entire cartridge and not just the needle, correct?

Attached are photos I took today.

 

[Lrstevens]

What you have is vintage tube gear. You have an FM/AM radio tuner and an integrated pre-amp/power/amp.

It looks as if your father mounted the turntable, that is the way they came back then.

I have no idea what cartridge you have. You will need to remove the headshell and get a photograph of the underneath.

Can you get a picture of that Multiplex decoder? I have feeling it might be a Sugden from the UK, but I'm far from sure.

That Fisher gear absolutely should be restored and not trashed. That is a rare find. If you don't want to do it, their collectors who would be glad of those units and restore them.

Here's a pic of the Multiplex and the cartridge. You can see all the other pics I took in my reply to "highfigh"
I'd like to get the Fisher gear restored as I best remember the system really sounded clear and crisp. I live in the SF Bay Area. Would you happen to know any reputable places I could take them and would you have an estimated price to restore something like these units?

 

[TLS Guy]

Here's a pic of the Multiplex and the cartridge. You can see all the other pics I took in my reply to "highfigh"
I'd like to get the Fisher gear restored as I best remember the system really sounded clear and crisp. I live in the SF Bay Area. Would you happen to know any reputable places I could take them and would you have an estimated price to restore something like these units?

This outfit in San Jose looks to be your best bet and they will service vintage tube gear.

Jico make quality replacement styli for your Shure cartridge.

You should be able to get this unit restored if you want.

 

[highfigh]

I was able to access the underside of the turn table. I forgot about looking in the cabinet underneath. I was able to see all the wires and the RCA cables were labeled Left/Right. I was in utter shock to see what a shotty job my dad did grounding the motor. I couldn't believe he used an alligator clip from the motor to the soldered RED wire I mentioned earlier. Guess he was killing two birds with one stone on the ground - ground the motor and the arm together. The RED wire dangling with the alligator clip from the motor was just hanging and connected to anything. I removed the alligator clip and ran a separate ground wire.

Regarding the Rek-O-Kut - Initially the motor wouldn't turn at all. I hand rotated it in the opposite direction and felt resistance. It then started to move but barely, then very slowly. After about 5 minutes it took about 60 seconds to make one revolution @ 33 1/3 rpm and 45 sec @ 45 rpm. I left it on 45 and let it run for 10 minutes to see if it would come up to speed.

Even though TLS Guy mentioned the cartridge suspension was probably hardened for having sat so long I had to try it out to see how it would sound and whether the speed was correct. I tested a record with vocals to see if the speed was correct and it was pretty close. After 1 song the vocals sounded normal. The stylus is a Shure M44E. If the suspension is indeed dried up I'm assuming I'd have to replace the entire cartridge and not just the needle, correct?

Attached are photos I took today.

Don't let the motor try to start if it doesn't want to- that could damage the winding.

Look at the stylus from the side- if the cartridge body is riding on the surface of the LP, the suspension has failed, if it rides ~1/8" above and you can see the stylus move as a reaction to surface irregularities (like a non-flat LP), it would seem to be OK. It may not meet the spec for compliance, but that's a slightly different issue.

I can't vouch for the quality, but Amazon has replacement needles for this cartridge at $26.99 after 10% off.

 

[TLS Guy]

Don't let the motor try to start if it doesn't want to- that could damage the winding.

Look at the stylus from the side- if the cartridge body is riding on the surface of the LP, the suspension has failed, if it rides ~1/8" above and you can see the stylus move as a reaction to surface irregularities (like a non-flat LP), it would seem to be OK. It may not meet the spec for compliance, but that's a slightly different issue.

I can't vouch for the quality, but Amazon has replacement needles for this cartridge at $26.99 after 10% off.

I know that, but you can't make a decent replacement for that money. JICO are known to make quality replacements. I doubt those cheap ones are even diamond.

 

[highfigh]

I know that, but you can't make a decent replacement for that money. JICO are known to make quality replacements. I doubt those cheap ones are even diamond.

Synthetic diamonds are cheap- the main question is "how close to spec is it?". Made in large quantity AND with proper manufacturing, they can be good and inexpensive but the days of mass-produced cartridges/styli are gone. The Amazon listing shows that it's diamond.

The stereo store where I worked sold turntables in high volume and the boxes from Audio-Technica usually had well over a hundred cartridges of various models since the boxes were very small. However, in a side by side comparison, they didn't always sound the same.

 

[highfigh]

I was able to access the underside of the turn table. I forgot about looking in the cabinet underneath. I was able to see all the wires and the RCA cables were labeled Left/Right. I was in utter shock to see what a shotty job my dad did grounding the motor. I couldn't believe he used an alligator clip from the motor to the soldered RED wire I mentioned earlier. Guess he was killing two birds with one stone on the ground - ground the motor and the arm together. The RED wire dangling with the alligator clip from the motor was just hanging and connected to anything. I removed the alligator clip and ran a separate ground wire.

Regarding the Rek-O-Kut - Initially the motor wouldn't turn at all. I hand rotated it in the opposite direction and felt resistance. It then started to move but barely, then very slowly. After about 5 minutes it took about 60 seconds to make one revolution @ 33 1/3 rpm and 45 sec @ 45 rpm. I left it on 45 and let it run for 10 minutes to see if it would come up to speed.

Even though TLS Guy mentioned the cartridge suspension was probably hardened for having sat so long I had to try it out to see how it would sound and whether the speed was correct. I tested a record with vocals to see if the speed was correct and it was pretty close. After 1 song the vocals sounded normal. The stylus is a Shure M44E. If the suspension is indeed dried up I'm assuming I'd have to replace the entire cartridge and not just the needle, correct?

Attached are photos I took today.

Don't let anyone tell you "Those tubes are old- replace them" without using a good tube tester, to show their condition- those are like gold, now and if there's any life left, keep them. Too many 'repairmen' will replace vintage tubes with new production and do a great job of selling them but the next thing they do is list the vintage ones online at a high price. Vintage tubes are very easy to find unless they're some odd item- most of these are common tube numbers, although the one with GZ-34 is very desirable by people who would use them in a guitar amp- this is the rectifier and the ones from later production (the wave after most tube production ended) aren't always very good. The output tubes are EL-84 and are probably in good condition- they don't show a white haze and that's a good thing.

If you don't have any technical info, here's a layout with component values and part numbers-

https://www.fisherconsoles.com/non%20console%20manuals/fisher%20x101%2010001%2029999%20sm.pdf

These fetch a lot of money, so if you decide to sell it, check the going prices. Otherwise, keeping it because of its history is completely understandable.

 

[Lrstevens]

Don't let anyone tell you "Those tubes are old- replace them" without using a good tube tester, to show their condition- those are like gold, now and if there's any life left, keep them. Too many 'repairmen' will replace vintage tubes with new production and do a great job of selling them but the next thing they do is list the vintage ones online at a high price. Vintage tubes are very easy to find unless they're some odd item- most of these are common tube numbers, although the one with GZ-34 is very desirable by people who would use them in a guitar amp- this is the rectifier and the ones from later production (the wave after most tube production ended) aren't always very good. The output tubes are EL-84 and are probably in good condition- they don't show a white haze and that's a good thing.

If you don't have any technical info, here's a layout with component values and part numbers-

https://www.fisherconsoles.com/non%20console%20manuals/fisher%20x101%2010001%2029999%20sm.pdf

These fetch a lot of money, so if you decide to sell it, check the going prices. Otherwise, keeping it because of its history is completely understandable.

highfigh, thanks for the information. What you mentioned about someone telling me a tube or some other component is bad when they're not is probably my biggest fear. I know many people who have been burned by dishonest persons which is why I either usually do everything myself or have been given a personal referral from a friend. My late uncle was an RCA repairman of the 1950's to 1980's and he would have been my go-to person. Unfortunately, I don't have any other personal contacts in this field of expertise.

My dad does have some new boxed and unboxed tubes. My uneducated guess is the tubes in the components are fine and the issue of none of the components powering up is possibility one or more resistors or capacitors have failed. It's obvious from the photos there's a lot of dust and oxidation present so maybe all the contacts are bad. I can make a call and see if my uncle might still have his test equipment lying around. If so, maybe I'll be able to at least check whether the tubes are ok.

Attached is a photo of extra boxed and unboxed tubes.

 

[highfigh]

highfigh, thanks for the information. What you mentioned about someone telling me a tube or some other component is bad when they're not is probably my biggest fear. I know many people who have been burned by dishonest persons which is why I either usually do everything myself or have been given a personal referral from a friend. My late uncle was an RCA repairman of the 1950's to 1980's and he would have been my go-to person. Unfortunately, I don't have any other personal contacts in this field of expertise.

My dad does have some new boxed and unboxed tubes. My uneducated guess is the tubes in the components are fine and the issue of none of the components powering up is possibility one or more resistors or capacitors have failed. It's obvious from the photos there's a lot of dust and oxidation present so maybe all the contacts are bad. I can make a call and see if my uncle might still have his test equipment lying around. If so, maybe I'll be able to at least check whether the tubes are ok.

Attached is a photo of extra boxed and unboxed tubes.

If you decide to clean any of the tubes, use a soft cloth with almost no water on it- the lettering wipes away very easily.

If it doesn't light up, it may have a bad rectifier, but it would be best to check the capacitors before doing anything that involves plugging it in and turning it on.

 

[Lrstevens]

If you decide to clean any of the tubes, use a soft cloth with almost no water on it- the lettering wipes away very easily.

If it doesn't light up, it may have a bad rectifier, but it would be best to check the capacitors before doing anything that involves plugging it in and turning it on.

highfigh, you mentioned, "Don't let the motor try to start if it doesn't want to- that could damage the winding."
Today I went to see if the turn table would work from the get-go since it did work the other day. Unfortunately, when I set the Rek-O-Kut to 33 1/4 it started to turn about 1 revolution per minute as before. I recalled what you wrote earlier about damaging the winding. Would you happen to know what could be the cause of the motor not coming up to speed? I'm assuming the motor itself is good, but something else is causing its delay?

Seeing that both the Tuner and Multiplex AC plugs were connected to the Control Amp I surmised the connector may be Switched and the main problem was the Control Amp. Through process of elimination, I connected the Tuner & Multiplex AC plugs directly to AC. The AM/FM Tuner Face and other tubes show power. The Multiplex does not display the Power light but its Beacon does come on for a bit and turns off. If I unplug and replug the Beacon will display and turn off. I didn't look at the tubes of the Multiplex because I had my other equipment on top of its compartment. With that said I believe I may have possibly eliminated 33% of my problem with the Fisher gear. I see what appears to be a huge transformer on the Control Amp chassis which could possibly be the problem.

 

[TLS Guy]

highfigh, thanks for the information. What you mentioned about someone telling me a tube or some other component is bad when they're not is probably my biggest fear. I know many people who have been burned by dishonest persons which is why I either usually do everything myself or have been given a personal referral from a friend. My late uncle was an RCA repairman of the 1950's to 1980's and he would have been my go-to person. Unfortunately, I don't have any other personal contacts in this field of expertise.

My dad does have some new boxed and unboxed tubes. My uneducated guess is the tubes in the components are fine and the issue of none of the components powering up is possibility one or more resistors or capacitors have failed. It's obvious from the photos there's a lot of dust and oxidation present so maybe all the contacts are bad. I can make a call and see if my uncle might still have his test equipment lying around. If so, maybe I'll be able to at least check whether the tubes are ok.

Attached is a photo of extra boxed and unboxed tubes.

Good Heaven's that is an absolute treasure trove of useful tubes.

Have you checked for blown fuses, or even that the power plugs are still plugged in? Now if you do start it, you must make sure the speakers are connected. Turning on a tube amp without the speakers connected can do enormous damage and fast.