Marantz Stereo 70s

[M Code]

Yeah, rated at 1KHz.....great......

I Understand that the dB scale has a purpose, but it's still not associated with the unknown speaker sensitivity, so it's still only a rough indication. Still better than 0-100, though.

"But ours go to eleven"- Nigel Tufnel, in 'This Is Spinal Tap'

I bet that if you show the part that starts with 'Assuming..." to most AV consumers, their eyes will glaze over- that's part of my problem with people looking for specs & performance when they don't understand what they're asking and this has barely changed since 1978, when I started selling audio. It's a sad comment on how the industry has failed to inform the general AV public.

I do agree, this feature is misunderstood by many and can/will change due to room size, speaker sensitivity, any EQ/DSP settings.
One more thing to keep in mind about the dB volume indication.
If any of the channel trims are set to positive + dB, that amount will be decreased from the maximum dB volume indication. For example, if the Center Front is set to +5dB the maximum volume dB indication would be +15dB rather than +20dB....

Just my $0.02...

 

[PENG]

What is the input sensitivity spec for the ClassD amps? If it isn't higher than 2V, don't worry about it- it's not like the amplifiers need or can use higher voltage and it's not a high current application.

Thanks, I know very well what voltage I need, but I still want more, at least 2x what I actually need.

 

[Bobby Bass]

I wonder what’s going on with people frying speakers over the years. just Watched a you tube video with a Canadian audio dealer telling a horror story about someone who started his high end speakers on fire. I used to crank my low cost stereos so loud my Dad thought I’d lose my hearing and I’ve never has a problem like blowing speakers with My equipment. Never heard about it with my hard rock loving friends either. I’m not an EE so I only know what I’ve read and heard over the years.

 

[M Code]

More loudspeakers are blown with low powered amplifiers, than high powered amplifiers.
Usually because the user has alot EQ boost, using high THD sources or simply trying to play the system @ a higher volume level driving the amplifiers into clipping..

Just my $0.02..

 

[Kvn_Walker]

So the NR1200's little cousin, Denon DRA 800H, has been replaced with a new DRA 900H:

DRA-900H - 2.2 Ch. 100W 8K AV Receiver with HEOS® Built-in | Denon - US

Denon

www.denon.com

This is gonna be functionally identical to the Marantz 70s, but rated at 100w instead of 75.

Also, unlike the 800H, the new model has preamp outputs! This is the one to get (especially on sale for 599!), as long as you take the bass management issue into consideration.

 

[PENG]

So the NR1200's little cousin, Denon DRA 800H, has been replaced with a new DRA 900H:

DRA-900H - 2.2 Ch. 100W 8K AV Receiver with HEOS® Built-in | Denon - US

Denon

www.denon.com

This is gonna be functionally identical to the Marantz 70s, but rated at 100w instead of 75.

Also, unlike the 800H, the new model has preamp outputs! This is the one to get (especially on sale for 599!), as long as you take the bass management issue into consideration.

As you said, the 800 does not has pre outs, so I think the NR1200 wins, especially if it price drops to $599 too, if that would ever happen.

 

[Kvn_Walker]

As you said, the 800 does not has pre outs, so I think the NR1200 wins, especially if it price drops to $599 too, if that would ever happen.

I didn't word that the best. The 900H does have pre out for Main Zone, unlike the 800H.

 

[MrBoat]

I didn't word that the best. The 900H does have pre out for Main Zone, unlike the 800H.

Thank you for mentioning the DRA-900H. That's more like it. I'm sorely tempted to pick one up just to own a modern receiver.

"The Denon DRA-900H provides a Test Tone to help you setup the output level of your connected loudspeakers. While listening to the Test Tone, you can adjust the output level (-12 to +12dB) of the left and right speakers. You can also adjust the receiver's subwoofer output level (-12 to + 12dB); as well as the the subwoofer output's Low Pass Filter (40, 60, 80, 90, 100, 110, 120, 150, 200, or 250Hz). In addition, you can set the distance (0 to 60') between the speakers and subwoofer from your main listening position."

 

[PENG]

Thank you for mentioning the DRA-900H. That's more like it. I'm sorely tempted to pick one up just to own a modern receiver.

"The Denon DRA-900H provides a Test Tone to help you setup the output level of your connected loudspeakers. While listening to the Test Tone, you can adjust the output level (-12 to +12dB) of the left and right speakers. You can also adjust the receiver's subwoofer output level (-12 to + 12dB); as well as the the subwoofer output's Low Pass Filter (40, 60, 80, 90, 100, 110, 120, 150, 200, or 250Hz). In addition, you can set the distance (0 to 60') between the speakers and subwoofer from your main listening position."

Would it send a tone to the subwoofer output too?
With the main zone pre out added, between the DRA-900H and the NR1200's replacement NR1300? will be a choice based on aesthetic, imo but I could be wrong as Marantz has not announced a replacement yet.

 

[highfigh]

Thank you for mentioning the DRA-900H. That's more like it. I'm sorely tempted to pick one up just to own a modern receiver.

"The Denon DRA-900H provides a Test Tone to help you setup the output level of your connected loudspeakers. While listening to the Test Tone, you can adjust the output level (-12 to +12dB) of the left and right speakers. You can also adjust the receiver's subwoofer output level (-12 to + 12dB); as well as the the subwoofer output's Low Pass Filter (40, 60, 80, 90, 100, 110, 120, 150, 200, or 250Hz). In addition, you can set the distance (0 to 60') between the speakers and subwoofer from your main listening position."

And the 800H and 900H can be controlled via IP., which is much better than using the display on the front, IMO.

 

[MrBoat]

Would it send a tone to the subwoofer output too?
With the main zone pre out added, between the DRA-900H and the NR1200's replacement NR1300? will be a choice based on aesthetic, imo but I could be wrong as Marantz has not announced a replacement yet.

Not sure. I had to dig a little to find the low pass info. I am a bit too old fashioned to care about all of the connectivity, media capabilities and "smart" features that entertainment appliances tend to focus on these days that one has to wade thru to get to the meat and taters.

 

[MrBoat]

And the 800H and 900H can be controlled via IP., which is much better than using the display on the front, IMO.

I nearly jumped on the 900h but it occurs to me that it won't upstage either of my 3805s since i don't give a wit about video, HDMI, and every streaming option. If I am honest with myself, my system is essentially flawless, and for what I use, the 900h would be pretty much a lateral move, functionally and SQ wise.

The recent addition of the Topping DAC to the PC was basically the last thing improved, that I did not know needed improving. Sitting here now listening and it's ridiculously good for what I have invested. Having a PC connected to the sound system tends to mitigate the need for all the included (media, anyway) software on modern receivers.

 

[thomas w.]

I was lucky enough to grow up as a teenager in the 70s. Had plenty of those 35,45-watt rms rated 2 channel Stereo receivers, that's what they were called with the A and B speaker selector, two buttons A/B and I used both pushed in running 4 speakers all the time. Blew a lot of tweeters, All on me I would get to about 11-12 O'clock on the volume dial and say to myself, this sounds nice let's go up to 2 O'clock, tweeters started crackling.

well said there brother. it took me a while to realize that more amplifier was actually easier on the tweets than less. Once I got amplifiers over 100w/ch I stopped having tweeter trouble.

 

[highfigh]

well said there brother. it took me a while to realize that more amplifier was actually easier on the tweets than less. Once I got amplifiers over 100w/ch I stopped having tweeter trouble.

The matter of having enough power and using equipment within the design limitations are equal- if a 50W (or whatever) amp isn't cranked to WOT and only to its max, un-distorted output, tweeters wouldn't need to die, but when someone thinks that the volume control turns so far and that 'all the way' = full power, it's gonna be cranked.