Behringer ep4000 for H/T problems

Eppie

Eppie

Audioholic Ninja
Good catch. I was pondering why the amp was heating up. The problem is that the VCs have been heated also, so the DC resistance of those VCs needs testing with a multimeter and comparing to spec. All that power heating up the amp was being expended in the VCs. Not good.
Yeah, that was bothering me and I had to mull it over some more. The speaker is rated at 600W-750W RMS so the coils may have survived the initial test. I did notice that the specs I found differed from yours. You mentioned an Fs of 35Hz but the NVX manual lists these numbers for the VSW154v2:

Xmax: 12mm
Fs: 23Hz
Vas: 179.78L
Sd: 85.50
Qts: 0.489
QES: 0.532
Sensitivity: 92dB

Recommended Enclosure Type Ported / Vented
Sealed
Minimum Sealed Box Volume 1.50 cubic feet
Optimum Sealed Box Volume 1.75 cubic feet
Maximum Sealed Box Volume 2.00 cubic feet
Minimum Ported Box Volume 2.50 cubic feet
Optimum Ported Box Volume 2.75 cubic feet
Maximum Ported Box Volume 3.50 cubic feet

Found this on https://www.sonicelectronix.com/item-105463-NVX-VSW154-Version-2-VSW154v2.html and they also sell sealed and ported enclosures with the driver for ~$220. Not that I would recommend a car audio woofer for use as a home audio subwoofer. ;) Just providing the numbers.
 
J

Jimbo96

Junior Audioholic
Thanks for clarifying that. They actually didn't sound too bad. I'm hoping to get the amp working correctly with what I have for now. The hum is awful, also the amp doesn't seem to be putting out full power. If I max out all gains, I still can't get to clipping. It takes around 3/4 of the way to get solid yellow. Looks like my next step is grounding everything.
 
highfigh

highfigh

Seriously, I have no life.
I have checked all the connections over and over, and they all look fine.
I have to admit a lot of this is over my head. I'm trying to understand it. Not only that, but I thought I knew a lot about sound and sound equipment. I was way off. I think I have learned more here than I have all the years prior. I have never been this deep into the settings in my AVR. Thanks for helping with my crash course.
The reason I purchased the Mic 2200 was because someone said it would give the clean db gain I needed for the amp. I'm hoping the new art box will do that, and I can get rid of the Mic2200. Unless it will help somehow.
I know I picked the wrong drivers. I'm hoping I can use the JBL driver for testing until I can build the correct box with the proper driver. As per TLS Guy
The art bow should be here today, then I can figure where to go from there.
The mic preamp is unnecessary- the CleanBox will give you he gain you need. Stacking gain on gain is a great way to add distortion to an electric guitar, bad for an AV system. Take that out- you don't need it.

As I posted before, return everything to its default settings and try it.

If possible, leave the volume control at a low setting and if possible, use a different speaker. If it works, check the subs to find out why they don't.

If you haven't read the manuals yet, I strongly recommend doing that. If you use the online manuals and find sections that are confusing, cop and paste them with a reference to the page number, so we can explain.

In fact, I would remove everything from the signal path and leave only the Yamaha and sub but in the first stage of troubleshooting amp/speaker problems, the speakers should ALWAYS be checked before connection to any amp. If you don't have a multimeter and don't know how to use one, buy one and learn- this will prevent killing an amplifier by connecting it to a speaker that has a shorted voice coil. Harbor Freight has a meter that sells for about $6 when it's not on sale and it's good enough for this.

If you hear sound and it's clean when only the Yamaha is connected (main speaker output), the speaker is probably OK, but if it still sounds bad and EP4000 gets hot, that amp needs to be checked out.
 
highfigh

highfigh

Seriously, I have no life.
As far as I know that is the one. It looks to be a very nasty device indeed. I am certain it is way over specked. That device could not possibly handle that amount of power, not even close. You could not build a driver that could for that price no matter what flea pit of a country you built it in.

One of the things I do note from the OP is that his amp gets hot. So I'm wondering if the VC is burnt and shorted, from trying to force output below its Fs that it can't reproduce.
I would certainly like to know what its DC resistance is now.

That device looks like one that should carry a warning, CONNECT AT YOUR OWN RISK!
If the sub was never driven to high SPL, the VC can't become hot unless the amp is outputting DC. The OP never mentioned deafening output.
 
J

Jimbo96

Junior Audioholic
The amp no longer gets hot. I tested all 4 VCs, and they are just over 4 ohms ea. I wired them correctly this time, and I'm getting 2.4 ohms each driver.
The problem, running directly to the amp from the AVR, is I get no volume.
I haven't used the Mic220 for a while now. It doesn't seem to do much.
 
TLS Guy

TLS Guy

Seriously, I have no life.
If the sub was never driven to high SPL, the VC can't become hot unless the amp is outputting DC. The OP never mentioned deafening output.
The VCs were opposing each other, so no a little sound, but lot of power released as heat in the VCs. Its like two pistons opposing each other with great force.
 
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highfigh

highfigh

Seriously, I have no life.
The VCs wee opposing each other, so no a little sound, but lot of power released as heat in the VCs. Its like two pistons opposing each other with great force.
Yeah, there is that.
 
J

Jimbo96

Junior Audioholic
Wow! What a difference. Thank you so much. These drivers do shake the house pretty good. I can now knock things off of the shelves. The ground idea helped so much. I still get a little noise. Not sure why. I went over kill with the ground. I used 4 awg welding cable. Very fine stranded copper. I grounded the amp to the AVR. Is there anything I can do to help with the little noise I have left? Believe me, it's 1000 times better than it was already.
 
J

Jimbo96

Junior Audioholic
This is so much better than my active JBL subs. I have two 12" Jbl's One 250 rms and one 400 rms. Both together don't even come close to the sound and volume of the new set-up. I'm hoping in the future to build the box and purchase the driver that TLS Guy recommended. I have to say even with the drivers I picked and the wrong box they sound better and deeper than the jbl's. Thing are finally going the right direction thanks to you all. Thanks again. I love this forum!
 
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