Magnetically shielded subwoofer - folllowup post

TheRealOC

TheRealOC

Junior Audioholic
Just a follow-up on a thread I posted last month; I was setting up a retro-gaming office that includes a CRT TV sensitive to magnetic fields, and I was asking for recommendations for magnetically shielded subwoofers.

Recap:

Here's the original post but I'll summarise it super quick:

https://forums.audioholics.com/forums/threads/recommendations-for-a-magnetically-shielded-subwoofer.126703/

* The goal was to have retro-gaming setup inspired by the below picture, where the older CRT television is living in a recessed back-box (at the perfect standing height for Time Crisis style light gun games :D ), and the modern TV mounted in front of it, via an overhead barn door slider. I altered the idea slightly by having my version of the setup be symmetrically laid out, so I could have surround sound in the room. The AVR I chose was a Yamaha Aventage RX-A2040 from 2015, as it can decode Pro Logic 2 (for the backwards compatibility with Pro Logic 1 and OG Dolby Surround, for early-mid 90s consoles like the Super Nintendo and the original PlayStation), and is also Atmos-capable so it has a nice range of formats. The speakers I chose are decent for the cost, but magnetic shielding was the most important factor, to avoid damaging the CRT so I went for the Ascend Acoustics CBM-170SE BOOKSHELF MONITOR PAIR for the front left and right, and Ascend Acoustics CMT-340SE2 for the centre.

1679225380275.png


The project has actually been coming along really well; the back box is drywalled out, most of the cabling has been run, and I'm just planning to install an extractor fan in the side, so the CRT doesn't cook itself for lack of ventilation :D

1679225231516.png
1679225279306.png


* In the original thread, some folks said there were no need for magnetically shielded subwoofers at all (just keep the subs 2-3 feet away from the CRT)

* Others suggested models of shielded subs or DIY solutions for shielding existing subs.

* Others shared their personal experiences with using unshielded speakers and subwoofers near CRT TVs with no issues, so there was a broad range of opinions.

The Problem:

In the end, I decided to hunt down a Yamaha YST-SW315 - these subwoofers were released around the mid-2000s and are confirmed to actually be magnetically shielded. The problem was that it was VERY difficult to track down, and I ended up settling for the U.S. 110V version of the subwoofer (I'm based in Ireland where the standard voltage is 230 Volts AC), so I will be using this sub with a step-down transformer, and I'm concerned that the step-down might introduce distortion on the audio.

My solution:

In this video, Paul McGowan (PS Audio) advises that using a step down transformer to power U.S. 110V products (in a region with 220V input voltage) can definitely end up degrading the sound. And to avoid this, he says to make sure to choose a transformer that is much larger than what you strictly need. Paul recommends a transformer that is at least ten times the size required, to avoid audible hum or similar problems.

Paul's advice is meant to apply to amplifiers, but I would assume that this would also apply to importing U.S. 110V powered subwoofers and using them with step-down transformers? Subwoofers are probably also sensitive to voltage fluctuations and using a step-down that is "too big for the job" may be a reliable way to avoid downgrading audio quality?

So on that basis.... to use the Yamaha YST-SW315 in Ireland, where the input voltage is 220V, I'd need a step-down transformer that can convert the 220V input voltage to the 110V required by the subwoofer. As the Yamaha YST-SW315 has a maximum power consumption of 250 watts, a good-quality transformer with a minimum rating of 10 times that (2500 watts) would be enough to handle any power spikes or fluctuations without impacting the audio. One option I found was the ST-2500 Step Down Transformer from Goldsource - this has a 2500W maximum capacity, and it has a sturdy design with multiple safety features, and is priced around $120 on Amazon.

Based on the above, this setup should power the subwoofer without ever running near its full capacity, and as a result, it should not get too hot. This means that the transformer should work reliably and not overheat, which could damage neighbouring equipment. It also probably shouldn't introduce buzzing or distortion on the audio..

Just wondering if anyone has any thoughts or feedback on this plan? Are the assumptions I've made correct, or is there anything that I've overlooked? (The subwoofer has its own dedicated circuit in the room. Also the AVR and all the other speakers have been sourced locally from Irish distributors, so it's only the subwoofer that I'm concerned about)

Thanks!
 
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highfigh

highfigh

Seriously, I have no life.
When it comes to any kind of magnetic fields, distance is one of your best friends. If you can't put the sub farther away, it's going to be difficult because a TV uses magnetism to cause the electrons to reach the outer edges and corners of the screen and any strong magnetic field that's nearby will disrupt it. If it doesn't disrupt the actual image, e.g., warping, it will make weird patterns in the colors.

As an experiment, take a piece of sheet metal and place it between the TV and sub. If the image isn't distorted, use the sheet metal in the final build but if it does distort, ground the sheet metal and see if th at helps- most old table top TVs had a sheet metal shell, until they decided to use plastic- if yours is plastic, this may help.
 
TheRealOC

TheRealOC

Junior Audioholic
When it comes to any kind of magnetic fields, distance is one of your best friends. If you can't put the sub farther away, it's going to be difficult because a TV uses magnetism to cause the electrons to reach the outer edges and corners of the screen and any strong magnetic field that's nearby will disrupt it. If it doesn't disrupt the actual image, e.g., warping, it will make weird patterns in the colors.

As an experiment, take a piece of sheet metal and place it between the TV and sub. If the image isn't distorted, use the sheet metal in the final build but if it does distort, ground the sheet metal and see if th at helps- most old table top TVs had a sheet metal shell, until they decided to use plastic- if yours is plastic, this may help.
At this point, the questions around the step down conversion are the main concern. I gave all the other information for context but the magnetic shielding on the Yamaha subwoofer should be fine.
 
highfigh

highfigh

Seriously, I have no life.
At this point, the questions around the step down conversion are the main concern. I gave all the other information for context but the magnetic shielding on the Yamaha subwoofer should be fine.
Yamaha's website shows photos and on the back, the plate amp has the power requirements- 120VAC, 80 (or 90) Watts. 60Hz. At 90W, the circuits use a bit more than 7Amperes, which isn't a lot.

In either case (80W or 90W), any decent transformer will have no problem with this sub and you shouldn't have sound problems from that- musicians have used step-down transformers in GB and Europe for decades without problems but you need to remember that at 50Hz, your equipment won't operate exactly as it would on a 60Hz electrical service.
 
TheRealOC

TheRealOC

Junior Audioholic
Yamaha's website shows photos and on the back, the plate amp has the power requirements- 120VAC, 80 (or 90) Watts. 60Hz. At 90W, the circuits use a bit more than 7Amperes, which isn't a lot.

In either case (80W or 90W), any decent transformer will have no problem with this sub and you shouldn't have sound problems from that- musicians have used step-down transformers in GB and Europe for decades without problems but you need to remember that at 50Hz, your equipment won't operate exactly as it would on a 60Hz electrical service.
Hi @highfigh thanks for getting back to me; just had a followup question about the 50/60Hz difference. You mentioned that running equipment on a 50Hz electrical service in Ireland may cause it to operate differently than it would on a 60Hz service. Would this difference in frequency affect the synchronization of the subwoofer with other speakers in the room that are designed for 60Hz? Is there anything I should keep in mind to ensure that all the speakers are working together effectively? Thanks!
 
highfigh

highfigh

Seriously, I have no life.
Hi @highfigh thanks for getting back to me; just had a followup question about the 50/60Hz difference. You mentioned that running equipment on a 50Hz electrical service in Ireland may cause it to operate differently than it would on a 60Hz service. Would this difference in frequency affect the synchronization of the subwoofer with other speakers in the room that are designed for 60Hz? Is there anything I should keep in mind to ensure that all the speakers are working together effectively? Thanks!
Amplifiers only use AC so the power supply can convert it to DC, which is what the circuits need. The line voltage uses AC because that allows using transformers for power distribution at much higher voltage and over long distances because high voltage can lose a bit and whatever is left is still extremely high and can be reduced for distribution to the utility's customers. The US uses 60Hz because that's what Westinghouse chose, GB and other places use 50Hz because they feel that it's less likely to electrocute someone, since our body's rhythm is closer to 60Hz than to 50Hz.

Synchronization is talked about by people who want to make others believe in magic- it's nothing like that- the signal from the AVR and the sub's crossover will determine if/how well the speakers are synchronized in any way- if the sub has a variable phase control, you're better off than just having a 0°/180° switch because the latter can't do anything about the range between those two options.
 

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