Dayton Audio UM12-22 12" Ultimax DVC Subwoofer

M

MrBoat

Audioholic Ninja
Not to overrun the DIY section or anything but I still have this driver.

UM12-22 12" Ultimax

Ended up mothballing it in exchange for two sealed RSS315HF-4 in a music only system. This was before I really spent any time at all tuning my system. I see now that the suggested ported cabinet by PE is 2 cu ft. It must have changed because I ended up with roughly the same size sealed and the ported version at the time was considerably larger or I would have went with the vented.

My question is, if someone just had this barely used driver on hand, what would you build with it. I don't need anything below 30 hz, really, or not if the compromises towards better overall sound mean sacrificing the lowest capabilities. Would this work in a car system, perhaps?
 
TLS Guy

TLS Guy

Seriously, I have no life.
Not to overrun the DIY section or anything but I still have this driver.

UM12-22 12" Ultimax

Ended up mothballing it in exchange for two sealed RSS315HF-4 in a music only system. This was before I really spent any time at all tuning my system. I see now that the suggested ported cabinet by PE is 2 cu ft. It must have changed because I ended up with roughly the same size sealed and the ported version at the time was considerably larger or I would have went with the vented.

My question is, if someone just had this barely used driver on hand, what would you build with it. I don't need anything below 30 hz, really, or not if the compromises towards better overall sound mean sacrificing the lowest capabilities. Would this work in a car system, perhaps?
Those Ultimax drivers are essentially brute force drivers, and have a really robust motor system. They are primarily designed as sealed box drivers, and will take huge amounts of Eq, to extend F3 downwards. However the T/S parameters do allow for a ported alignment, but the box volume is large. It is not a car subwoofer.

They are good drivers, but you still have to stick to the rules, and align them properly if you want decent results from them. If you have something more specific in mind I can assist you.
 
lovinthehd

lovinthehd

Audioholic Jedi
It should be fine in a car per Dayton's description " Dual 2 ohm voice coils allow for stereo 2 ohm and mono 1 ohm wiring configurations when connecting to high current car audio and professional audio amplifiers to extract maximum power. For home audio applications, simply wire the voice coils in series for a benign 4 ohm load for greater amplifier compatibility. "
 
TLS Guy

TLS Guy

Seriously, I have no life.
It should be fine in a car per Dayton's description " Dual 2 ohm voice coils allow for stereo 2 ohm and mono 1 ohm wiring configurations when connecting to high current car audio and professional audio amplifiers to extract maximum power. For home audio applications, simply wire the voice coils in series for a benign 4 ohm load for greater amplifier compatibility. "
By not a car sub, I mean that this unit does not have a response to allow for cab gain, which car sub drivers usually do. Of course the driver could be equalized to take care of cab gain.
 
lovinthehd

lovinthehd

Audioholic Jedi
By not a car sub, I mean that this unit does not have a response to allow for cab gain, which car sub drivers usually do. Of course the driver could be equalized to take care of cab gain.
Then again not all vehicle cabin gain is the same either, is it? My 15 passenger van has a much larger cabin than my smallish suv.
 
M

MrBoat

Audioholic Ninja
Those Ultimax drivers are essentially brute force drivers, and have a really robust motor system. They are primarily designed as sealed box drivers, and will take huge amounts of Eq, to extend F3 downwards. However the T/S parameters do allow for a ported alignment, but the box volume is large. It is not a car subwoofer.

They are good drivers, but you still have to stick to the rules, and align them properly if you want decent results from them. If you have something more specific in mind I can assist you.
So then, what would you do with it if it were yours (other than sell it) if you wanted to make something worthy with it?

I have a sealed box for it already, perhaps I should try it with some EQ this time. The two rss315HF-4 I am currently using are in sealed cabinet design per Zaph audio archive page, and adjusted for absence of the plate amps and they sound pretty darn good.
 
lovinthehd

lovinthehd

Audioholic Jedi
Somehow I see yours and TLS' use factors as not quite aligned.....
 
TLS Guy

TLS Guy

Seriously, I have no life.
So then, what would you do with it if it were yours (other than sell it) if you wanted to make something worthy with it?

I have a sealed box for it already, perhaps I should try it with some EQ this time. The two rss315HF-4 I am currently using are in sealed cabinet design per Zaph audio archive page, and adjusted for absence of the plate amps and they sound pretty darn good.
I think it all depends on the space you have. I have not modelled that 12" driver, but I can. If I had the space I would go ported, if not sealed. In general I am not fond of sealed subs, as they need so much power. If space is at a premium they are the way to go. I can model both tomorrow, and if you want sealed I can tell you the exact Eq required. I have feeling that driver might well make a good TL sub driver. There is no alignment I know of that produces such natural and realistic bass as a well designed TL.

We are going to have a bad storm here tomorrow, so I may well have time to doodle.
 
M

MrBoat

Audioholic Ninja
I think it all depends on the space you have. I have not modelled that 12" driver, but I can. If I had the space I would go ported, if not sealed. In general I am not fond of sealed subs, as they need so much power. If space is at a premium they are the way to go. I can model both tomorrow, and if you want sealed I can tell you the exact Eq required. I have feeling that driver might well make a good TL sub driver. There is no alignment I know of that produces such natural and realistic bass as a well designed TL.

We are going to have a bad storm here tomorrow, so I may well have time to doodle.
This room is roughly 1500 cu. ft. I mostly just use them to fill in the very bottom from around 45hz and it's music only. I bought the driver on sale nearly 5 years ago.

There is sort of an error on that page with cabinet recommendations. One part calls for:
Cabinet Recommendations:
  • Sealed 2.0 cubic ft. (net internal) with 1 lbs. of Acousta-Stuf polyfill, f3 of 36 Hz with a 0.707 Qtc alignment
  • Vented 4.0 cubic ft. (net internal, not including driver or port volume) tuned to 20 Hz with a 10" wide by 1.5" high slot port that is 25" long, which yields an f3 of 19 Hz

    Then below that there is another table of specs.

  • Parts Express Staff Recommended Enclosure Volume
    Sealed Volume1.5ft³
    Sealed F335Hz
    Vented Volume2ft³
    Vented F322Hz
 
M

MrBoat

Audioholic Ninja
It should be fine in a car per Dayton's description " Dual 2 ohm voice coils allow for stereo 2 ohm and mono 1 ohm wiring configurations when connecting to high current car audio and professional audio amplifiers to extract maximum power. For home audio applications, simply wire the voice coils in series for a benign 4 ohm load for greater amplifier compatibility. "
When I bought the driver, PE didn't have all that info on their page about auto like they do now.
 
TLS Guy

TLS Guy

Seriously, I have no life.
This room is roughly 1500 cu. ft. I mostly just use them to fill in the very bottom from around 45hz and it's music only. I bought the driver on sale nearly 5 years ago.

There is sort of an error on that page with cabinet recommendations. One part calls for:
Cabinet Recommendations:
  • Sealed 2.0 cubic ft. (net internal) with 1 lbs. of Acousta-Stuf polyfill, f3 of 36 Hz with a 0.707 Qtc alignment
  • Vented 4.0 cubic ft. (net internal, not including driver or port volume) tuned to 20 Hz with a 10" wide by 1.5" high slot port that is 25" long, which yields an f3 of 19 Hz

    Then below that there is another table of specs.

  • Parts Express Staff Recommended Enclosure Volume
    Sealed Volume1.5ft³
    Sealed F335Hz
    Vented Volume2ft³
    Vented F322Hz
That lower vented volume is definitely wrong. I will look at it today if I get a chance.
 
M

MrBoat

Audioholic Ninja
That lower vented volume is definitely wrong. I will look at it today if I get a chance.
I was wondering if the smaller cabinets were minimum for auto applications, perhaps, where size is even more critical.

I based the size of the sealed cabinet for it initially, based from the dimensions of the 2.0 cu. ft. knockdown cab supplied for this sub by PE, which is 19"H x 16"W x 20"D using .75" thick material.
 
TLS Guy

TLS Guy

Seriously, I have no life.
I was wondering if the smaller cabinets were minimum for auto applications, perhaps, where size is even more critical.

I based the size of the sealed cabinet for it initially, based from the dimensions of the 2.0 cu. ft. knockdown cab supplied for this sub by PE, which is 19"H x 16"W x 20"D using .75" thick material.
Like all thinks with speakers, there is the right box and the rest wrong. I am doing Christmas cooking at the moment, as a blizzard rages outside. I will model that box sealed and vented for optimal alignment. Just for the hell of it, I may do a TL model.
 
lovinthehd

lovinthehd

Audioholic Jedi
When I bought the driver, PE didn't have all that info on their page about auto like they do now.
I couldn't remember if they mentioned car use or not, so went looking and the first one I looked at was the 18", where it wasn't mentioned, but was for the 12....I have seen posts from guys who'd put them in their cars, too....
 
highfigh

highfigh

Seriously, I have no life.
Funny thing about equalization, the response can be boosted OR cut and cutting would be a better option that wouldn't overstress the amplifier or driver. As long as the amplifier has enough power, sufficient output should be no problem if this is used in a sealed box.
 
highfigh

highfigh

Seriously, I have no life.
That lower vented volume is definitely wrong. I will look at it today if I get a chance.
A TL version would be good to see, although it would be interesting to see if the sealed version would be worth the effort.

Not happy to see that you already have snow- not too enthused about having to deal with that, unless it's powder.
 
TLS Guy

TLS Guy

Seriously, I have no life.
A TL version would be good to see, although it would be interesting to see if the sealed version would be worth the effort.

Not happy to see that you already have snow- not too enthused about having to deal with that, unless it's powder.
I have moved a lot of snow already. Two were wet and the wrong sort of snow. The others I could blow. The two wet ones I had to use the tractor blower as a blade and doze it. Today we have pure powder coming down.

I still have my JD 214 I bought in 1981, it was built in Wisconsin Jan 1981. The engine is a single cylinder 14 HP Kohler, with a cast iron block and it is an L-head.

I have pulled through 4 gallons of gas already this season. Part of the reason for that, is that the neighbors expect free snow service! I have been pining for my old JD Model A and its 8' snow bucket, but obviously I could not keep it here. It was bought by a local farmer with a small farm, and he plowed a field with it the day after he bought it at auction.
 
M

MrBoat

Audioholic Ninja
Like all thinks with speakers, there is the right box and the rest wrong. I am doing Christmas cooking at the moment, as a blizzard rages outside. I will model that box sealed and vented for optimal alignment. Just for the hell of it, I may do a TL model.
That would be interesting. Especially since most efforts are with the larger versions. I have very little knowledge of TL.

Far as snow, had enough of that. I was frequenting NJ a few times each year. Ended up getting stranded there for 10 days during the Presidents Day storm early in this century. 20 something inches overnight, IIRC. But each winter, was always having to wear layers and that is just uncomfortable. Last time before that, I put a 40 square roof on of timberline shingles by myself in Estes Park, CO. It was in Spring and they had gotten a wave of snow storms and it was -5F out and I would have to sweep 2' of powder off the roof each day before I started, and then spread the shingles I intended to use on the sunny side of the roof to thaw them out first or the nail heads would knock holes in them too big for the nails to hold.

Sure we get acclimated some to where we live but I dig the more subtle seasonal changes. We will be down in the 30s on Christmas and hopefully not for more than a couple days.
 
Last edited:
M

MrBoat

Audioholic Ninja
Funny thing about equalization, the response can be boosted OR cut and cutting would be a better option that wouldn't overstress the amplifier or driver. As long as the amplifier has enough power, sufficient output should be no problem if this is used in a sealed box.
Haven't had issue with power. In this room, most subs are pretty much at idle with the type music I listen to. No movies or other super effects. Just music and mostly bass guitar and some synth stuff. In the sealed cabinets I am using for the RSS315s, IIRC, they are only tuned to roughly the mid 30hz range. It causes me to wonder if most people are aware just how low 30hz actually is with regard to normal music. I hear stuff into the 20s and it seems that these subs naturally roll off like the bass in the music I listen to typically does.
 
M

MrBoat

Audioholic Ninja
Like all thinks with speakers, there is the right box and the rest wrong. I am doing Christmas cooking at the moment, as a blizzard rages outside. I will model that box sealed and vented for optimal alignment. Just for the hell of it, I may do a TL model.
I am designated chef for all occasions. This year I handed the main course tasks to my son and my nephew. I am known around this hood for my baking. Taught myself, along with help from my mother growing up because I always wanted my sons to have better than what can be bought. For their teenage years, all the neighborhood kids would end up here for pie. Now they are all in their 30s and they still talk about it. I make everything from scratch.

Homemade apple, and sweet potato pie from scratch. Funny that the SP pie ends up kicking the pumpkin to the curb every year. Mine ends up gone, and I end up with whole pumpkin pie leftover that was never touched. Either way, chef'ng and the constant cleanup is like a real job so I applaud you if you are still able to do a full spread. I cooked for two days and up until 4pm on TG day, and then the next two reusing the leftovers to feed my guests.



Homemade pfeffernusse cookies. Most people thought they would not like these. They disappeared quick. All fresh and natural ingredients are the key, as with everything else. You just don't see these cookies made here in FL. much.
 

Latest posts

newsletter

  • RBHsound.com
  • BlueJeansCable.com
  • SVS Sound Subwoofers
  • Experience the Martin Logan Montis
Top