What amp outlet do I need

[the machine]

What's the problem with your Anthem monoblocks to begin with?

Outlaw, ideally want one unit, two tops. Running out of space to plug stuff in. Behind my media cabinet looks like a bowl of spaghetti

 

[lovinthehd]

...my SR7012 and 3 anthem monoblocks...

Well....

So the 2200 or 2220s? I'd just keep 'em and figure out some cable management I'm curious about the Purifi modules, but not that curious.

 

[TLS Guy]

If you work it back form the output power ratings, and even those are sort term and factor in the 94% efficiency then you have the right numbers.

Also if you look at the power versus distortion graphs, then THD rises sharply at 125 watts in 8 ohms, 250 watts into four ohm and 350 watts into 2 ohms. So that all fits. His 15 amp circuit for that amp will be fine. I don't think he needs to worry. The power versus distortion graph absolutely confirms what I said above.

 

[ryanosaur]

I question the efficacy of that Amp. If those modules can’t do more than that without blowing distortion specs, I think OP can find better class d Amp options

 

[TLS Guy]

I question the efficacy of that Amp. If those modules can’t do more than that without blowing distortion specs, I think OP can find better class d Amp options

Since most speakers are four ohm whatever the manufacturer says, 250 watts into four ohms from three channels is very good. The rail voltage is 75 volts so that is the sort of number you would expect. That is a lot better performance than a receiver. For domestic conditions that should be plenty. My Quad 909s are 140 watts into 8 ohm and 250 watts into four ohm. That is an awful lot of power to put into a speaker. If you increase power output then you get into very high rail voltages, and therefore dangerously high speaker wire voltages and really require insulated connections, like Speakon, at the Amp and speakers, otherwise their is great danger of electric shock.

In this area you have to be careful what you wish for, or it could be a half day out with the undertaker.

 

[ryanosaur]

Since most speakers are four ohm whatever the manufacturer says, 250 watts into four ohms from three channels is very good. The rail voltage is 75 volts so that is the sort of number you would expect. That is a lot better performance than a receiver. For domestic conditions that should be plenty. My Quad 909s are 140 watts into 8 ohm and 250 watts into four ohm. That is an awful lot of power to put into a speaker. If you increase power output then you get into very high rail voltages, and therefore dangerously high speaker wire voltages and really require insulated connections, like Speakon, at the Amp and speakers, otherwise their is great danger of electric shock.

In this area you have to be careful what you wish for, or it could be a half day out with the undertaker.

This I agree with. I was looking at it from the perspective that there are many options that fall into this sweet spot as you describe it here.
Yet this Purifi Module is also advertised up to much higher power levels. Personally, I haven't really checked it out much deeper just because the Hypex modules available do much the same thing for less.
While they have not been released yet, Hypex has released some early info on new N-Core X as well as a new line of DIY n-cores.

Regardless, I think if OP is really trying to minimize boxes and wires, looking at the Ncore 502 and 252 MP Modules would be smarter in that they will be less expensive per channel with likely zero performance changes. Even if he were to go directly from source to DAC to Amp, the likelihood of noticing any SQ improvement from Hypex to Purifi will be very minimal.

 

[the machine]

Well....

So the 2200 or 2220s? I'd just keep 'em and figure out some cable management I'm curious about the Purifi modules, but not that curious.

Also, the LR channel amps shut of randomly while watching TV. Then they come back on some time later. It's always random. The center channel never powers off. I'm not sure if there is a trigger switch somewhere I need to set to get it to turn off.

Also looking to go class D to drive the power consumption down a bit. The last electric bill I received was $615, and our AC was used sparingly during the last cycle. ::facepalm::

 

[PENG]

VTV AMPLIFIER Three Channel Purifi Audio 1ET-7040SA Amplifier | VTV Amplifier

IDK what power draw is, lol.

As you already know, the data sheet, the power output specs are as follow (I only pasted the relevant parts):

Hypex Electronics B.V.

At maximum rated output it may draw 3600 to 3800 W but for normal usage it may only draw a few watts, depending on you usage conditions such as speaker sensitivity, impedance, seating distance, and your listening habits (kind of music you listen to, sound pressure level etc..).

If you use it on NA's 115-120 V circuits, a dedicated 20 A circuit will be fine, the regular 15 A line will do as well, again it all depends on your usage conditions. Again, that 3600-3800 W is under what they considered the "maximum" and if you push it to deliver that much output, the voltage will be well into clipping. The important spec for this is the inrush current, based on the spec of 19A, since it will be for a very short duration so it will not even trip a 15 A breaker.

 

[fmw]

IDK what any of this means, lol.

3600/115 = 31.3, so I need a 30A?

I also don't listen anywhere near reference level (maybe occasionally), so maybe none of this makes a difference.

No, you will never get anywhere near 3600 watts. 5 watts or up to 30 watts at the extreme would be closer to reality. a 15 amp circuit is fine. Gold plating doesn't affect performance or sound.

 

[Speedskater]

It's easy to find out:
If the circuit breaker doesn't trip then yes it can run on that circuit.
A large number of real big amps can run on a single 15 or 20 Amp circuit! The trick is to turn the amps on, one at a time.
The only way a 15 Amp circuit can limit current is by triping the breaker. Note that it can deliver close to 150 Amps for a good fraction of a second.

 

[TLS Guy]

It's easy to find out:
If the circuit breaker doesn't trip then yes it can run on that circuit.
A large number of real big amps can run on a single 15 or 20 Amp circuit! The trick is to turn the amps on, one at a time.
The only way a 15 Amp circuit can limit current is by triping the breaker. Note that it can deliver close to 150 Amps for a good fraction of a second.

It won't trip, if you look at the power versus distortion graphs, what that unit can actually and not fantasy numbers. If you work it back then my figures are correct, given the 94% efficiency spec.

 

[Speedskater]

It won't trip, if you look at the power versus distortion graphs, what that unit can actually and not fantasy numbers. If you work it back then my figures are correct, given the 94% efficiency spec.

a 15 Amp breaker or even a 15 Amp circuit won't change distortion numbers.
Other than the increase in AC power line 'source impedance' may drop the line voltage by a volt or two.

 

[lovinthehd]

Also, the LR channel amps shut of randomly while watching TV. Then they come back on some time later. It's always random. The center channel never powers off. I'm not sure if there is a trigger switch somewhere I need to set to get it to turn off.

Also looking to go class D to drive the power consumption down a bit. The last electric bill I received was $615, and our AC was used sparingly during the last cycle. ::facepalm::

Yeah, defective amps would be a good reason but I'd do some troubleshooting first. Does seem to ring a bell that the Outlaws have some sort of an autosense feature? @ryanosaur ?

The saving on your electricity bill, that's a nice rationalization but doubt will translate into much of a noticeable reduction of your bill! Good luck, tho.

 

[ryanosaur]

Yeah, defective amps would be a good reason but I'd do some troubleshooting first. Does seem to ring a bell that the Outlaws have some sort of an autosense feature? @ryanosaur ?

I've had no issues with Music Sense through any of my Outlaw Amps or Subs. It's possible I suppose, if volume is low enough for long enough, they could switch.
I don't recall what else is in the chain for OP... if there is an AVR issue perhaps that manifests in losing channels? Hard to say without much more detail provided.