DIY sub that performs as good or better then an SVS PB2000 PRO? Is it worth it?

[Benni777]

So this may be a dumb question but wondering if there is a DIY sub that performs as good as a SVS PB2000 pro but under the cost of a SVS PB2000pro? Including power and DSP. And is it worth my time and effort? Or would it be better to just purchase a done sub??

 

[everettT]

So this may be a dumb question but wondering if there is a DIY sub that performs as good as a SVS PB2000 pro but under the cost of a SVS PB2000pro? Including power and DSP. And is it worth my time and effort? Or would it be better to just purchase a done sub??

There's a couple in this forum if you search. I know there is one that Dr. Mark designed with the Dayton RS driver and I believe it was the 12", no app or variable tuning, but cheaper and with really good output.

Edit: there are other drivers that can beat it, you'll just need to design and build it, unless there are plans in the diy domain, which there are more then a handful.

 

[TLS Guy]

So this may be a dumb question but wondering if there is a DIY sub that performs as good as a SVS PB2000 pro but under the cost of a SVS PB2000pro? Including power and DSP. And is it worth my time and effort? Or would it be better to just purchase a done sub??

It is not a dumb question at all. DIY speakers, if you go about it correctly will give an enormous boost to the price performance ratio. This is especially true of subs. If you have the tools and knowhow, time and skill you will come out hundreds of dollars ahead. I have always built and designed my own speakers.

I have quite a large number of my sub designs on file. Do you have a box volume limitation, and if so what is it?

 

[Verdinut]

Yes, in my opinion the Dayton RSS390HF-4 sub drivers which I am using in my HT can outperform the SVS PB2000 Pro.

This driver is designed to be installed in a large box with a net volume of 8 to 9 cf. Whereas the PB2000 will output 20 Hz at an F3 at -8dB, the RSS390 will output 20 Hz at -3dB in the optimum box volume of 8.96 cubic feet.

You will need time and effort to build a proper cabinet. But the fun of the experience and the feeling of accomplishment after the work done is really amazing.

In my HT, I am using three of those drivers, one in each front speaker cabinet acting as a woofer. With the room gain, I have to cut their output below 50 Hz and I can get an almost flat LF response down to 16 Hz. The boxes are tuned at 16.8 Hz. I use QSC DCA 1222 Cinema amps to drive them, but you could also drive them with the more affordable Crown XLS series amps. Those drivers have a power handling capacity of 500 watts (1000 w peak) and carry a warranty for 5 years:

Dayton Audio - RSS390HF-4 15" Reference HF Subwoofer 4 Ohm

RSS390HF-4 15" Reference HF Subwoofer 4 Ohm

www.daytonaudio.com

My 7 Channel System

SYSTEM: MARANTZ SR5010, 3 QSC DCA 1222 AMPS. DRIVING THE FRONT CHANNELS IN ACTIVE BI-AMP CONFIG. QSC DCA 1824 (4 CH. AMP.) FOR SURROUND CHANNELS OPPO BDP-95, REVOX B77, TEAC AN-80 (NR), AUDIO-TECHNICA AT-LP1240, SHURE M97XE, HITACHI HCA-8300, PANASONIC TH-50PZ80U, FURMAN PS-8R, APC H15 FRONT...

forums.audioholics.com

 

[Benni777]

It is not a dumb question at all. DIY speakers, if you go about it correctly will give an enormous boost to the price performance ratio. This is especially true of subs. If you have the tools and knowhow, time and skill you will come out hundreds of dollars ahead. I have always built and designed my own speakers.

I have quite a large number of my sub designs on file. Do you have a box volume limitation, and if so what is it?

Well I was looking at 12" subs. But am open to 10s and want to couple them up (dual subs) either off the bat or after some time. As to volume idk, haven't really thought about it. Maybe 3cuft.

 

[Benni777]

Yes, in my opinion the Dayton RSS390HF-4 sub drivers which I am using in my HT can outperform the SVS PB2000 Pro.

This driver is designed to be installed in a large box with a net volume of 8 to 9 cf. Whereas the PB2000 will output 20 Hz at an F3 at -8dB, the RSS390 will output 20 Hz at -3dB in the optimum box volume of 8.96 cubic feet.

You will need time and effort to build a proper cabinet. But the fun of the experience and the feeling of accomplishment after the work done is really amazing.

In my HT, I am using three of those drivers, one in each front speaker cabinet acting as a woofer. With the room gain, I have to cut their output below 50 Hz and I can get an almost flat LF response down to 16 Hz. The boxes are tuned at 16.8 Hz. I use QSC DCA 1222 Cinema amps to drive them, but you could also drive them with the more affordable Crown XLS series amps. Those drivers have a power handling capacity of 500 watts (1000 w peak) and carry a warranty for 5 years:

Dayton Audio - RSS390HF-4 15" Reference HF Subwoofer 4 Ohm

RSS390HF-4 15" Reference HF Subwoofer 4 Ohm

www.daytonaudio.com

My 7 Channel System

SYSTEM: MARANTZ SR5010, 3 QSC DCA 1222 AMPS. DRIVING THE FRONT CHANNELS IN ACTIVE BI-AMP CONFIG. QSC DCA 1824 (4 CH. AMP.) FOR SURROUND CHANNELS OPPO BDP-95, REVOX B77, TEAC AN-80 (NR), AUDIO-TECHNICA AT-LP1240, SHURE M97XE, HITACHI HCA-8300, PANASONIC TH-50PZ80U, FURMAN PS-8R, APC H15 FRONT...

forums.audioholics.com

Yeah 15s would be awesome but may be a bit big. I do like them Daytons though.

 

[Benni777]

One more thing, 50/50: music / movies.

 

[TLS Guy]

One more thing, 50/50: music / movies.

A properly designed sub will no care if it is movies or music. Good is good, which ever way you slice it.

Do you want me to design you a sub? If so I need to know you maximum volume for a sub. I would recommend a 15" sub, but there are some good performing 12" subs.

 

[Benni777]

A properly designed sub will no care if it is movies or music. Good is good, which ever way you slice it.

Do you want me to design you a sub? If so I need to know you maximum volume for a sub. I would recommend a 15" sub, but there are some good performing 12" subs.

Hey thanks, that's cool of you. Yeah man, I'll PM you when I'm ready. Guess I'll need to do some measurements to figure what all would be good. Thanks again

 

[lovinthehd]

Biggest issues with diy subs are usually the finishing/furniture aspect (especially for WAF)....depends on your skills and your tolerance of your own work Might take a bigger box, too. Amps for a single sub can be expensive, usually you do better by running multiple subs off an amp (and a bit more economy of scale on the building side, too). Many can outperform the SVS, tho. Lots of diy info out there if you go looking for it. Can be a bit of a rabbit hole for time/energy. Then there's outfits that make a pre-cut flatpack to help out for particular drivers.....maybe check out GSG Audio (also a member here).

 

[Benni777]

Biggest issues with diy subs are usually the finishing/furniture aspect (especially for WAF)....depends on your skills and your tolerance of your own work Might take a bigger box, too. Amps for a single sub can be expensive, usually you do better by running multiple subs off an amp (and a bit more economy of scale on the building side, too). Many can outperform the SVS, tho. Lots of diy info out there if you go looking for it. Can be a bit of a rabbit hole for time/energy. Then there's outfits that make a pre-cut flatpack to help out for particular drivers.....maybe check out GSG Audio (also a member here).

Yeah, finish I'm not worried about. I've worked in building/repairing furniture for years.
As to budget I certainly don't want to go broke because I know how deep that rabbit hole goes lol.
But yeah. Just doing my homework and seeing my best options

Thank you and thank everyone on here

 

[William Lemmerhirt]

I think a mini Marty or a smallish(is there such a thing?) devastator.

 

[Danzilla31]

Yeah, finish I'm not worried about. I've worked in building/repairing furniture for years.
As to budget I certainly don't want to go broke because I know how deep that rabbit hole goes lol.
But yeah. Just doing my homework and seeing my best options

Thank you and thank everyone on here

Mini Marty since your comfortable with doing a great finish and they're easy to assemble. My vote is with GSG Audio as well

 

[Alex2507]

Get that TLS aligned thing.

I've got a couple of different subs based on his voodoo using random enough drivers. Nothing else sounds like them. You gotta break your ears in sort of but then there's no going back.

The cabinet is where the time/money goes. It took me like 5 weeks to finish the first pair. Now they're all battered and bruised but I tried.

So his design in a rock solid cabinet ...

 

[Benni777]

Thanks again guys.

Here's another thought I had. Why don't I see any passive subwoofer crossovers out there. I mean couldn't you build an XO that would work for a sub? Or is that just dumb and a DSP is where it's at for various reasons?

 

[TLS Guy]

Thanks again guys.

Here's another thought I had. Why don't I see any passive subwoofer crossovers out there. I mean couldn't you build an XO that would work for a sub? Or is that just dumb and a DSP is where it's at for various reasons?

Passive crossovers are not suitable for a sub. The inductor and cap values become huge. This gives rise to all sorts of problems, not least of which is the significant resistance of the series inductor coils, which significantly alter system Q.

When you get down to it, passive crossovers are at the beginning of the end. Active crossovers, with an amp to drive each section are the way to go.

Anyone planning an HT room from this point on needs to have a AC outlet at every speaker location. The best location for amps is actually in speakers.

 

[Alex2507]

DSP is where it's at for various reasons?

Yes.

I think cost and efficiency are the reasons. Expensive to make and then expensive to run due to low efficiency/sensitivity or something like that.

Otherwise they'd already be doing it.

 

[TLS Guy]

Here is your design. It is a good potent sub. I have sent you a PM with the design. It meets your volume constraints.

 

[Alex2507]

It meets your volume constraints.

That's over 4 cubic feet. So four of those ...

I looked for the low Qts of 0.45 and a few other things. The round vent caught my eye too. Truth be told the port vents have been the best parts of design and overbuild bad-assery on both my builds.

I wonder how much 350 watts into 8 Ohms costs.

So I wondered what happened to the Ask Dr. Mark thing (IIRC) where you had the alignment for the 8W7?

 

[MalVeauX]

A DIY sub will murder a commercial sub for cost. It's all about size.

A GSG flat pack for some Marty Cubes or Mini Martys with some 18's will be life changing compared to a smaller little commercial sub at similar cost.

No special tools needed, just clamps, glue and a little time and patience. Finishing them is not difficult. You can do the pro-audio black look as easy as painting a wall with zero skill or experience.

Very best,