DIY sub that performs as good or better then an SVS PB2000 PRO? Is it worth it?

[lovinthehd]

A DIY sub will murder a commercial sub for cost. It's all about size.

A GSG flat pack for some Marty Cubes or Mini Martys with some 18's will be life changing compared to a smaller little commercial sub at similar cost.

No special tools needed, just clamps, glue and a little time and patience. Finishing them is not difficult. You can do the pro-audio black look as easy as painting a wall with zero skill or experience.

Very best,

That depends howfast you work and what your time costs....

 

[MalVeauX]

That depends howfast you work and what your time costs....

Sure,

If your time is worth more to you, then you can just buy one pre-made and have it delivered, like the FV18, or a pre-made Full Marty or whatever you want. Get a couple. Have a blast. Spend away if you got it.

If you're considering DIY to get more sub for your money, then that's probably not you. One would consider this rather obvious. But maybe it's not.

And then there's the other, which is one who just likes to argue.

Very best,

 

[lovinthehd]

Don't get me wrong, I prefer diy rather than buying subs....doubt if I'd go back but if the value/performance level was up there compared to my time I'd probably just go with it.....

 

[BoredSysAdmin]

Amps for a single sub can be expensive, usually you do better by running multiple subs off an amp (and a bit more economy of scale on the building side, too).

say what you will about Behringer quality (or lack of it , I agree that they aren't as robust as other brands but often, knowing their shortcomings has an easy workaround, making them great value.
iNuke NU1000 is discontinued, and its direct replacement is this one named NX1000:

https://www.amazon.com/Behringer-Monitor-Speaker-Subwoofer-NX1000/dp/B07DX6CBJP/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=Behringer+NX1000&qid=1657423320&sr=8-2#customerReviews

Reading amazon reviewers, most complain about noise, except one guy offers an $8 fan replacement fix that (supposedly) completely cures the fan noise issue.
In bridged mode, it SHOULD deliver 1kW into 4Ohm, which is nothing to sneeze at (its current sale price of $231+8.

 

[lovinthehd]

say what you will about Behringer quality (or lack of it , I agree that they aren't as robust as other brands but often, knowing their shortcomings has an easy workaround, making them great value.
iNuke NU1000 is discontinued, and its direct replacement is this one named NX1000:

https://www.amazon.com/Behringer-Monitor-Speaker-Subwoofer-NX1000/dp/B07DX6CBJP/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=Behringer+NX1000&qid=1657423320&sr=8-2#customerReviews

Reading amazon reviewers, most complain about noise, except one guy offers an $8 fan replacement fix that (supposedly) completely cures the fan noise issue.
In bridged mode, it SHOULD deliver 1kW into 4Ohm, which is nothing to sneeze at (its current sale price of $231+8.

My only knock on Behringer is their silly ratings as opposed to true measured ratings.....but tend to be decent amps for the price, particularly when combined with the onboard eq. Personally I'd shy away from Behringer mostly on build quality issues.

 

[Benni777]

Thanks again everyone great info

 

[ErikS]

Here is your design. It is a good potent sub. I have sent you a PM with the design. It meets your volume constraints.

Question for you: I have this box, designed for the infinity kappa subs that don't exist anymore:

https://www.drmarksays.com/wp-content/uploads/2008/07/infinity-kappa-perfect-12-vq-mid-insert-vented-box-pro.pdf

Is there a modern driver that would work well in this box? I'm searching the various sub databases in order to find a good match.

Sent from my Pixel 6 Pro using Tapatalk

 

[TLS Guy]

Question for you: I have this box, designed for the infinity kappa subs that don't exist anymore:

https://www.drmarksays.com/wp-content/uploads/2008/07/infinity-kappa-perfect-12-vq-mid-insert-vented-box-pro.pdf

Is there a modern driver that would work well in this box? I'm searching the various sub databases in order to find a good match.

Sent from my Pixel 6 Pro using Tapatalk

The answer is no. It is a waste of time trying to find a driver for a cabinet. You need to start from scratch. Unfortunately those kappa drivers were poorly built, which was a pity, as they were a useful driver.

 

[highfigh]

say what you will about Behringer quality (or lack of it , I agree that they aren't as robust as other brands but often, knowing their shortcomings has an easy workaround, making them great value.
iNuke NU1000 is discontinued, and its direct replacement is this one named NX1000:

https://www.amazon.com/Behringer-Monitor-Speaker-Subwoofer-NX1000/dp/B07DX6CBJP/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=Behringer+NX1000&qid=1657423320&sr=8-2#customerReviews

Reading amazon reviewers, most complain about noise, except one guy offers an $8 fan replacement fix that (supposedly) completely cures the fan noise issue.
In bridged mode, it SHOULD deliver 1kW into 4Ohm, which is nothing to sneeze at (its current sale price of $231+8.

Fans are usually noisy because they were an 'off the shelf' choice but installing a voltage divider will slow it to the point of being virtually inaudible, yet will still move enough air to do their job.

 

[HuenEye]

Passive crossovers are not suitable for a sub. The inductor and cap values become huge. This gives rise to all sorts of problems, not least of which is the significant resistance of the series inductor coils, which significantly alter system Q.

When you get down to it, passive crossovers are at the beginning of the end. Active crossovers, with an amp to drive each section are the way to go.

Anyone planning an HT room from this point on needs to have a AC outlet at every speaker location. The best location for amps is actually in speakers.

I use passive crossovers in my subs w/o any problems whatsoever. A 80Hz or 100Hz LP or HP doesn't require huge inductors as you stated.

I like the amps I have why would I want to use an amp in the speaker, except for subs?

Q is more effected by cabinets than crossovers! I experiment with my DATS3 and can see what cabinets and crossovers do to FR as well as phase and impedance and the Qs.

I've been in this hobby for 65 years and I worked in the music business for many years in the 70s. I built my own speakers when I was 16 in the late 60s and my neighbor was employed by RCA designing audio and video circuits and I learned a lot from him.

IMO active crossovers are the lazy way to go to voice a speaker. I have an electronic crossover system made by Ashley that I bought from a studio and I've played with that plenty to hear the difference in crossover points etc. I usually end up with the crossover points at what I originally planned to use.

 

[TLS Guy]

I use passive crossovers in my subs w/o any problems whatsoever. A 80Hz or 100Hz LP or HP doesn't require huge inductors as you stated.

I like the amps I have why would I want to use an amp in the speaker, except for subs?

Q is more effected by cabinets than crossovers! I experiment with my DATS3 and can see what cabinets and crossovers do to FR as well as phase and impedance and the Qs.

I've been in this hobby for 65 years and I worked in the music business for many years in the 70s. I built my own speakers when I was 16 in the late 60s and my neighbor was employed by RCA designing audio and video circuits and I learned a lot from him.

IMO active crossovers are the lazy way to go to voice a speaker. I have an electronic crossover system made by Ashley that I bought from a studio and I've played with that plenty to hear the difference in crossover points etc. I usually end up with the crossover points at what I originally planned to use.

Passive crossover below 350 to 400 Hz are just an abomination. I think you must be the master chef of Frankenstein systems.

I give very few dumb ratings to posts, but you have earned one in a hurry.