Class D and Me Too!... The Hypex Path

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ryanosaur

ryanosaur

Audioholic Overlord
Well... According the the FedEx App, my package reached the local hub and is already out for delivery by this afternoon.
Strangely, with this update, the RED EXCLAMATION MARK OF DOOM returned.
IMG_0104.jpg


Anyway...
This is definitely exciting. Hopefully it won't take so long to get the JST EHR-7 Connectors.

According to Ghent, they are expecting to be back at work on or around the 12th. I wish I could get these in the US, but... *shrugs

EHR-7 JST Sales America Inc. | Connectors, Interconnects | DigiKey

Order today, ships today. EHR-7 – 7 Rectangular Connectors - Housings Receptacle Natural 0.098" (2.50mm) from JST Sales America Inc.. Pricing and Availability on millions of electronic components from Digi-Key Electronics.
www.digikey.com www.digikey.com

I do get one of these with each Chassis:
1649354627787.png

Specifically, the LED Power Supply Cable. That appears to be the connector for the socket in question.
It is wired for Aux Positive Output and Gnd (pins J1.3 and J1.5).

Trigger In in J1.1

Does anybody no if I need to run a wire back to the 3.5mm Trigger Socket? Or do I just need to make certain it is grounded to the chassis?
 
ryanosaur

ryanosaur

Audioholic Overlord
ryanosaur

ryanosaur

Audioholic Overlord
ryanosaur

ryanosaur

Audioholic Overlord
Wow.
In hand.
Wow. ;)
I'm impressed. Even knowing the specs beforehand, this is some solid stuff. "Tank-like" is what comes to mind considering 5mm thick aluminum for the Top and Bottom, and 8mm thick faceplate. This is well beyond your standard audio gear case. The back plate is only 3mm thick and still a hefty 1/3 pound. (That front plate? 1.25#!!! Legit! ;) )
It will be interesting to get it all put together. Sadly, no instructions.
It also looks like they may have sent a wrong cable... but as best I can tell it is the cable I need to "play with" and would have to rebuild for the trigger. I'll check against the actual modules before ordering the parts I think I need, just to be safe. If they have to ship me the connectors, perhaps they can include anything else that might not be correct.

I didn't take photos since I was opening this outside, wearing gloves and just being careful. I'm not too worried about any contaminants, but the Lady has som lingering objections to vaccinations so rather than open everything inside, I unpacked and brought the components in after giving a little time in the sun and local air. :)

As an aside, going back and looking at the Chassis from DIY Audio Store, specifically the Pesante which I was considering... the Top, Bottom and Rear panels are all only 1mm thick! They would have required custom milling for the I/O connections, and I would still be left doing custom work myself to be able to mount the modules. While cost is low for the chassis in comparison...

What I got from Ghent is outstanding!
 
ryanosaur

ryanosaur

Audioholic Overlord
Ok… my reading comprehension wasn’t borked, rather my knowledge of how these triggers work…

the product sheet states that when a trigger voltage of between 3-12vdc is applied to pin J1.1, the SMPS will enter a Standby Mode…

…when voltage is applied.

When that voltage is removed, the unit wakes up.

This, of course, is opposite of how the AVR trigger operates. When you turn the AVR on, it applies the trigger voltage.

I need to find a solution which will ideally apply the trigger voltage to the Amp Modules only when the AVR removes its trigger signal. Thus a circuit with switched low voltage power supply that reads the ACR trigger and does the opposite.
  • If trigger signal is present, then power supply is off.
  • If trigger signal is absent, then power supply is on.
Anybody? ;)
 
adk highlander

adk highlander

Sith Lord
So you are asking for help but not posted any pictures of this tank like build? I feel I don't know you.
 
ryanosaur

ryanosaur

Audioholic Overlord
Trying to do that too! :rolleyes:

Life just isn't fair. :confused:

;)
 
Eppie

Eppie

Audioholic Ninja
An entirely electronic solution would be ideal but it would be easy with a simple mechanical relay and 9V DC power adapter. Feed the 9V through the normally closed contacts on the relay to keep the amp in standby mode. When you power the system on, use the trigger voltage from the AVR to trip the relay and activate the amp. Might need some components in conjunction with the relay to draw the proper amount of current from the trigger out. Maybe a resistor in series to act as a voltage divider. Maybe TLS Guy would have an idea? This could also be done with a switching transistor to eliminate the relay but that will require some proper circuit design.
 
ryanosaur

ryanosaur

Audioholic Overlord
Just because it is a complete hang up, in a manner of speaking...
Ghent Audio in Shanghai just updated their website to possible reopening on 5/11. Just yesterday, they were still claiming 5/5.
Shanghai is a mess right now.
 
ryanosaur

ryanosaur

Audioholic Overlord
An update? On this old thread?
;)

I sat down today and started assembling the Amps.
All modules are installed, and rear panel terminations are installed

I need to deal with the wiring.

Much to my dismay, they left a little work for me to do... Not strictly plug-n-play.

Pics to come.

All told it took about 3 hours to get everything mostly put together for 2 chassis featuring 5 channels of SMPS and Amp Modules.

I'll sit down tomorrow and figure out the final wiring work that needs to be done.
 
ryanosaur

ryanosaur

Audioholic Overlord
Well, that was fun... :rolleyes:

Finding the parts and connectors for these wiring assemblies is both easy (thanks to the Hypex Data Sheets and Ghent Audio actually posting the specific Connector information used)... and a challenge.

Mouser was offline, so into Digikey I dove. Molex and JST parts were easy to find with the part numbers, but the trick was finding the matching crimp connectors to go with the connector part.

Regardless, I succeeded. :) All parts are supposed to be in stock. Hopefully I will have them early next week. *fingers crossed
 
ryanosaur

ryanosaur

Audioholic Overlord
Next up is figuring out the XLR connection. I'm assuming (and probably shouldn't) that Ghent connected the Shield to GND. ;) Of course, their are the + and - signals...

So pins 1, 2, and 3, respectively (GND, +, -).

Now Hypex also includes in the cable bracket the nAMPON signal. Ghent's cable set includes this extra wire.

I've seen lots of conversation about Grounding and connections, but little in the way of clear and precise "This Is The Way" direction.

The clearest I've seen is a post on ASR replying to off-topic NC400 builds in the DIY Purifi thread... Huh... Off-topic... :p

He says to connect to ground on the chassis, as well as making certain the NC400s are grounded to the chassis as well. This last point is interesting because the full chassis is Anodized except for a single point to ground the AC Mains. My understanding is that anodizing insulates...

Now I'm wondering if I need to grind some finish away?

Hmmm...
 
ryanosaur

ryanosaur

Audioholic Overlord
ryanosaur said:
Next up is figuring out the XLR connection. I'm assuming (and probably shouldn't) that Ghent connected the Shield to GND. ;) Of course, their are the + and - signals...

So pins 1, 2, and 3, respectively (GND, +, -).

Now Hypex also includes in the cable bracket the nAMPON signal. Ghent's cable set includes this extra wire.

I've seen lots of conversation about Grounding and connections, but little in the way of clear and precise "This Is The Way" direction.

The clearest I've seen is a post on ASR replying to off-topic NC400 builds in the DIY Purifi thread... Huh... Off-topic... :p

He says to connect to ground on the chassis, as well as making certain the NC400s are grounded to the chassis as well. This last point is interesting because the full chassis is Anodized except for a single point to ground the AC Mains. My understanding is that anodizing insulates...

Now I'm wondering if I need to grind some finish away?

Hmmm...
Click to expand...
Update:
I found a PDF of the NC400 that had some pages my download didn't have... and with that a clearly marked instruction for Grounding Pin1 and the nAMPON to the Chassis. The Shield gets soldered to the Grounding Tab on the XLR Chassis Mount.

It seems likely I will need to prep the Chassis, as well, to properly ground the modules. That will likely be a pretty easy solution though, especially if I can get my hands on a Dremel.
 
everettT

everettT

Audioholic Spartan
ryanosaur said:
Update:
I found a PDF of the NC400 that had some pages my download didn't have... and with that a clearly marked instruction for Grounding Pin1 and the nAMPON to the Chassis. The Shield gets soldered to the Grounding Tab on the XLR Chassis Mount.

It seems likely I will need to prep the Chassis, as well, to properly ground the modules. That will likely be a pretty easy solution though, especially if I can get my hands on a Dremel.
Click to expand...
Yeah, definitely sand down the finish. IIRC Amir tested an amp (can't recall diy or manufacturers) and the chassis finish caused issues before testing. The drum sander tips for drimmels works perfectly for these instances. That and getting the BMR driver to mount cleanly with a gasket :D
 
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