Wharfedale sub not working / dead

[NZ Bassman]

We've got a Marantz SR5012 and wharfedale speakers - 2 front, 2 side, 1 centre and 1 sub - I think the speaker model is 'Vardus' from memory? (bought new in 2008/9)

Mid last year I was awoken by a loud humming sound (our bedroom backs onto the lounge) so went into the lounge to find the sub was humming loudly, so I turned it off and went back to bed
next day turned it back on and was all ok.... but every now and then it was doing the same thing... and if I turn it off then turn it on after a while it would be ok.

The other day while watching TV I noticed that the blue light on the top of the sub wasn't on, so I checked and the sub was turned on at the back, but no sound was coming out of it..... so I turned it off, waited a couple of minutes, turned it on and the blue light came on for a couple of seconds then went off, but still no sound.
I turned it off again and next day turned it back on but no light came on or anything and still no sound - this now happens every time I turn it off then back on.
I unplugged the sub completely and plugged it into another power point to try that but still no light would come on

this suggests to me that the sub might have died?

is there anything else I can try to see if it works?

thanks in advance

 

[lovinthehd]

More likely the sub's amp died than the driver, so you might hook up another amp to test....

 

[Pogre]

Yup. Sounds like the amp mighta kicked the bucket. Could look into replacing it if not too expensive.

 

[NZ Bassman]

you mean the amp actually on / part of the sub?
the other speakers plugged into the Marantz SR5012 work fine

 

[lovinthehd]

Yes, the amp sub (sub's amp) seems to be the issue from your description....not the sub's driver but hard to know for sure from your analysis.

 

[Kvn_Walker]

Unless it's a really expensive sub it's probably more cost effective to replace it than fix it.

 

[Trell]

Unless it's a really expensive sub it's probably more cost effective to replace it than fix it.

Perhaps an expensive subwoofer, but that is a sunk cost, though. It is an opportunity to evaluate whether or not to buy a new subwoofer.

 

[cerwinmad]

Hey NZ bassman , judging from ya name your in NZ like me. Rappallo av in Auckland sorted me out with my PB2000 , overnight free shipping and great price. Definitely try there website before getting a mediocre sub from Harvey Norman etc .

 

[AcuDefTechGuy]

you mean the amp actually on / part of the sub?
the other speakers plugged into the Marantz SR5012 work fine

If you had a passive sub, you could easily hook up another amp to it.

But not with a powered sub.

 

[lovinthehd]

If you had a passive sub, you could easily hook up another amp to it.

But not with a powered sub.

It is a passive sub at the moment it seems...and thus you could try another amp....

 

[NZ Bassman]

Hey NZ bassman , judging from ya name your in NZ like me. Rappallo av in Auckland sorted me out with my PB2000 , overnight free shipping and great price. Definitely try there website before getting a mediocre sub from Harvey Norman etc .

thanks for the advice - yes I'm in Auckland NZ
Those subs are very pricey though.... I'm sure they are great, but way out of my budget
I'll have another look at the sub and see if I can plug something directly into the back RCA inputs and get some sound - if not looks like I'll be on the hunt for another sub

 

[AcuDefTechGuy]

It is a passive sub at the moment it seems...and thus you could try another amp....

How is it a passive sub? The internal amp just died. It’s not like it turns into a passive sub the moment the internal amp died.

He would have to remove the internal amp, remove the attached wiring and install speaker binding posts to the woofer and turn his active sub into a passive sub, which takes some knowledge and some skill. Just simply removing the internal amp doesn’t turn it into a plug-and-play passive sub.

 

[AcuDefTechGuy]

thanks for the advice - yes I'm in Auckland NZ
Those subs are very pricey though.... I'm sure they are great, but way out of my budget
I'll have another look at the sub and see if I can plug something directly into the back RCA inputs and get some sound - if not looks like I'll be on the hunt for another sub

The back RCA goes to the Internal Amp, not the sub. So that won’t work.

Next time you might consider buying a passive sub. Then you will never have to worry about the internal amp of the sub failing again.

 

[lovinthehd]

How is it a passive sub? The internal amp just died. It’s not like it turns into a passive sub the moment the internal amp died.

He would have to remove the internal amp, remove the attached wiring and install speaker binding posts to the woofer and turn his active sub into a passive sub, which takes some knowledge and some skill. Just simply removing the internal amp doesn’t turn it into a plug-and-play passive sub.

LOL because the built in/dedicated amp is likely dead, duh. For all the posts you make about "passive" subs you seem to have little clue just what that means....it just means a driver/box without a dedicated amp....not rocket science. All you need do is directly connect another amp to the driver, like you would with a "passive" or amp-less sub....

 

[AcuDefTechGuy]

LOL because the built in/dedicated amp is likely dead, duh. For all the posts you make about "passive" subs you seem to have little clue just what that means....it just means a driver/box without a dedicated amp....not rocket science. All you need do is directly connect another amp to the driver, like you would with a "passive" or amp-less sub....

I have used passive subs for about 30 years. I have never turned an active sub into a passive sub. I never claim to have ever done it or be an EXPERT LIKE YOU or read about doing it - probably because I’ve never had to worry about it since I’ve always used passive subs in the 1st place.

You talk the talk. With your high college degree and professional career, I am sure nothing seems like rocket science to you.

So why don’t you provide easy step by step instructions to the op right here as to “How to directly connect another amp to the driver while leaving the existing internal amp attached because the active sub is now automatically a passive sub”?

We need to have this “How To” section available since it is so easy to do that anybody can do it when their sub amp dies.

And also explain to us why setting a HPF at 30Hz (like Crown Amp) is NOT PROTECTIVE if the tuning of the sub port is 20Hz - like you claim on the other thread.

Again, I have never claimed to be an expert here. So I can learn something.

 

[Kvn_Walker]

So why don’t you provide easy step by step instructions to the op right here as to “How to directly connect another amp to the driver while leaving the existing internal amp attached because the active sub is now automatically a passive sub”?

It's really easy! *

First you buy a Crown XLS-1002 amp. At $370 it's a small price to pay to test if the old sub is even working. Never mind that it's more than half the price of an entry level SVS or Hsu 12" sub. It's all about the science.

If the Wharfedale sub is ported, you just run the speaker wires through the port to the driver.

If the Wharf is sealed or passive radiator, you simply drill a hole into the cabinet, run the speaker wires to the active driver, then seal and caulk the hole. This is completely reversible with some bondo and vinyl that matches your sub's finish.

Set the Crown amp for a suitable bandpass (read the manual, don't ask me how), adjust the gain to match your system, and let 'er rip!

________________________________________________________________

* Note 1: OP, PLEASE don't do anything I just said.

Note 2: If I could flag my own post as Dumb, I would.

 

[Pogre]

It's really easy! *

First you buy a Crown XLS-1002 amp. At $370 it's a small price to pay to test if the old sub is even working. Never mind that it's more than half the price of an entry level SVS or Hsu 12" sub. It's all about the science.

If the Wharfedale sub is ported, you just run the speaker wires through the port to the driver.

If the Wharf is sealed or passive radiator, you simply drill a hole into the cabinet, run the speaker wires to the active driver, then seal and caulk the hole. This is completely reversible with some bondo and vinyl that matches your sub's finish.

Set the Crown amp for a suitable bandpass (read the manual, don't ask me how), adjust the gain to match your system, and let 'er rip!

________________________________________________________________

* Note 1: OP, PLEASE don't do anything I just said.

Note 2: If I could flag my own post as Dumb, I would.

I'd have marked it for you, but with your caveat it's funnier than it is dumb! Lol.

 

[-Jim-]

Okay Gents, lets try to help NZ Bassman instead of fussing about amongst ourselves.

Based on the limited info to date I'm suggesting the Warfedale speakers in question are a package set. See: Warfedale Pro Vardus Manual

If true this may be as simple as a blown fuse on the VR-10 Sub or "tired" or corroded fuse connector, defective on/off switch, line cord, etc. Doubtful, but possible. (It's probably the Plate Amplifier.)

As the Sub doesn't work, and I agree it's probably not worth having a Electronics Technician service it, why not guide NZ Bassman through a couple checks to see what could have failed? (For those who don't know, I'm a licensed Electrician, with a separate year of Electronics Technician training after finishing my apprenticeship some years ago at General Electric.)

A multimeter could be helpful, and most home handymen seem to have one (even if they only use one function!). Please advise NZ Bassman if you have one, and also advise if you are interested in some dismantling of the Sub if investigation warrants it. Please confirm the model number of the Sub (look on the amp on the back.) The manual and this photo VR-10 Sub indicate it has only Philips headed screws holding the Plate amplifier onto the Sub. After disconnecting it from power, and the interconnects to your system, removal should be straight forward.

If interested, I'll try to walk you through the investigation.

I hope this is helpful.

 

[Kvn_Walker]

If it started with humming and then led to complete deadness, it's most likely the power supply circuitry that has gradually failed over time. He can try a new fuse, but if the fuse is blown, that doesn't fix what caused it to blow in the first place.

It's a cheap way to test, but if the new fuse blows or it still doesn't power on, then any further testing would be throwing good money after bad.

 

[lovinthehd]

I have used passive subs for about 30 years. I have never turned an active sub into a passive sub. I never claim to have ever done it or be an EXPERT LIKE YOU or read about doing it - probably because I’ve never had to worry about it since I’ve always used passive subs in the 1st place.

You talk the talk. With your high college degree and professional career, I am sure nothing seems like rocket science to you.

So why don’t you provide easy step by step instructions to the op right here as to “How to directly connect another amp to the driver while leaving the existing internal amp attached because the active sub is now automatically a passive sub”?

We need to have this “How To” section available since it is so easy to do that anybody can do it when their sub amp dies.

And also explain to us why setting a HPF at 30Hz (like Crown Amp) is NOT PROTECTIVE if the tuning of the sub port is 20Hz - like you claim on the other thread.

Again, I have never claimed to be an expert here. So I can learn something.

LoL many have done such...if you can't figure out how to connect another amp (if one is even availavble to the OP or if he has any interest is another matter), don't think you should even try, let alone you trying to to understand why you wouldn't use the XLS for your imaginary sub (altho you could use it, it wouldn't be ideal). I'm just a guy who diys subs.....