Exploring Subs for Theater post-2020 in the $2k range

MalVeauX

MalVeauX

Senior Audioholic
I definitely wouldn’t want to store subwoofer boxes so I could ship them for repair to Monoprice. That’s a hassle.

At least with Rythmik and HSU and SVS even if you are past warranty, they can always sell you a new plate amp and you can swap it yourself. Just figure out if one is $250 or whatever and make a decision on whether getting the warranty is cheaper or not.
Great point, I definitely want to be able to just replace a plate amp (or whatever amp) as needed. Problem is, will they have a fitting plate amp in 10 years? More? That's where I start to think about things. I have subs from over 10 years ago still kicking fine. I've also had plenty of plate amps fail over years and got replaced, but now they cannot be replaced and to put a different one on there requires wood work and making a new surface and screwing it into the back and its all janky. So I started leaning towards a passive sub build for the external amp so that it greatly simplifies that issue in the future and doesn't require modding.

Very best,
 
S

snakeeyes

Audioholic Ninja
Great point, I definitely want to be able to just replace a plate amp (or whatever amp) as needed. Problem is, will they have a fitting plate amp in 10 years? More? That's where I start to think about things. I have subs from over 10 years ago still kicking fine. I've also had plenty of plate amps fail over years and got replaced, but now they cannot be replaced and to put a different one on there requires wood work and making a new surface and screwing it into the back and its all janky. So I started leaning towards a passive sub build for the external amp so that it greatly simplifies that issue in the future and doesn't require modding.

Very best,
Building a sub is probably easier on sealed designs. I haven’t seen many people building ported subs.

I could be wrong though.
 
lovinthehd

lovinthehd

Audioholic Jedi
Yea Monolith sounds like a no-go which is why I left them off the list. Dealing with issues with an item this big and heavy and expensive is not fun when it's a hassle to get service. So I'd rather stay with a group that I can deal with here on USA soil to avoid over-the-pond shipping stuff and communications with massive lag times (if any).

I'm ok with plain jane black or duratex. Heck I can sand and repaint if it looks janky. I'm much more worried about actually assembling it well, than finishing it.

Very best,
Assembling it with clamps would be better but some have used something simple like painter's tape. They're cnc machined with rabbets so fitting/gluing should be very easy (compared to cutting your own on an old table saw e.g. :) ).
 
S

snakeeyes

Audioholic Ninja
Think some people also modify the fans on those Beringer amps. Just an FYI in case you are sensitive to fan noise.
 
MalVeauX

MalVeauX

Senior Audioholic
Assembling it with clamps would be better but some have used something simple like painter's tape. They're cnc machined with rabbets so fitting/gluing should be very easy (compared to cutting your own on an old table saw e.g. :) ).
I have some clamps, but I likely need more. I figured at least $100 in extra tools just for that alone.

Very best,
 
lovinthehd

lovinthehd

Audioholic Jedi
I have some clamps, but I likely need more. I figured at least $100 in extra tools just for that alone.

Very best,
When I first wanted to do some diy subs I invested in a bunch of woodworking tools for them as well as other projects around the house. I got a killer deal on a 30 piece bar clamp set at the time ($120). If flat packs were more readily available then I might have gone that route, but that came later. I originally thought of building full martys but decided was a bit too ambitious for my beginner saw skills as well as just manhandling them for building/finishing so went sealed instead.
 
MalVeauX

MalVeauX

Senior Audioholic
When I first wanted to do some diy subs I invested in a bunch of woodworking tools for them as well as other projects around the house. I got a killer deal on a 30 piece bar clamp set at the time ($120). If flat packs were more readily available then I might have gone that route, but that came later. I originally thought of building full martys but decided was a bit too ambitious for my beginner saw skills as well as just manhandling them for building/finishing so went sealed instead.
Yea, I don't want to cut anything (don't want to get or borrow tools; let alone re-do all the messups), so these per-cut options with a few different companies are great for dabblers. Price is fine in my book after you factor in tools, materials and time.

Of course it's easy to want the big full Marty, but I have to be realistic, I'm no gonna want to move them and definitely won't want to attempt to move them in 10 years or more. So I'm trying to be very reasonable with size/weight and instead will just go with more subs instead of some enormous monstrous things. I figure 100~150lbs max so that I can hand truck them, and no measurements that exceed a standard door frame with the door taken off the hinges. Just thinking ahead for moving them or anything, and knowing full well that I'll be stuck with them so I do not want something I cannot manage.

So that put me on the minis, and they're still fantastic it seems. I considered some cubes, even lighter and smaller. Just not sure I want to do 3 or 4 cubes, compared to two mini-Martys.

And of course, I'm still on the fence with all of it, compared to just starting a collection of HSU VTF-3 Mark 5 subs....

Very best,
 
Pogre

Pogre

Audioholic Slumlord
When I first wanted to do some diy subs I invested in a bunch of woodworking tools for them as well as other projects around the house. I got a killer deal on a 30 piece bar clamp set at the time ($120). If flat packs were more readily available then I might have gone that route, but that came later. I originally thought of building full martys but decided was a bit too ambitious for my beginner saw skills as well as just manhandling them for building/finishing so went sealed instead.
So is this just a typical slotted port design or something different? The air path almost has a sorta TL look, but with only 1 bend.

web_rmini_3_cb207359-9f95-4d02-9760-63c1308a9a62_530x@2x.png
 
S

snakeeyes

Audioholic Ninja
Yea, I don't want to cut anything (don't want to get or borrow tools; let alone re-do all the messups), so these per-cut options with a few different companies are great for dabblers. Price is fine in my book after you factor in tools, materials and time.

Of course it's easy to want the big full Marty, but I have to be realistic, I'm no gonna want to move them and definitely won't want to attempt to move them in 10 years or more. So I'm trying to be very reasonable with size/weight and instead will just go with more subs instead of some enormous monstrous things. I figure 100~150lbs max so that I can hand truck them, and no measurements that exceed a standard door frame with the door taken off the hinges. Just thinking ahead for moving them or anything, and knowing full well that I'll be stuck with them so I do not want something I cannot manage.

So that put me on the minis, and they're still fantastic it seems. I considered some cubes, even lighter and smaller. Just not sure I want to do 3 or 4 cubes, compared to two mini-Martys.

And of course, I'm still on the fence with all of it, compared to just starting a collection of HSU VTF-3 Mark 5 subs....

Very best,
I would consider this build myself for my next home. If you do it, maybe create a thread and post up your progress. I bet more than a few people would enjoy that. :)
 
MalVeauX

MalVeauX

Senior Audioholic
I would consider this build myself for my next home. If you do it, maybe create a thread and post up your progress. I bet more than a few people would enjoy that. :)
If I do it, I certainly will! I'm just planning for now, I have to get the room built first. So this is probably next year.

But I have to figure out, and take a long good time to do it, to know if I'm going to DIY build some Mini-Martys or if I'm going to aim for four HSU VTF-3 Mark 5's (maybe buy 2 at a time over 2 years).

Very best,
 
jinjuku

jinjuku

Moderator
You could still do the dual opposed options. Just pay for the needed cuts at the hardware store or give the cut list to a cabinet shop. Just glue and brad nail.
 
William Lemmerhirt

William Lemmerhirt

Audioholic Overlord
I would also consider a sonosub for diy. Sonotube is light, and you can usually get the concrete place to cut to length. Seen many LLT’s made from sonotube. Best part is, they’re LIGHT! Basically the weight of the driver, and baffles. Choose your amp and done. Also, if you don’t want to make the baffle cuts. Find a custom car audio shop, or cab maker to cut the rounds for baffles. They can even cut the hole/s for ports. Go to PE and get a port kit for correct tuning and done. Google sonosub for plenty of ideas. And sonosub free sub designer software to get the right size for tuning based off the T/S parameters. Winisd or bass box can help design subs too.
 
MalVeauX

MalVeauX

Senior Audioholic
I would also consider a sonosub for diy. Sonotube is light, and you can usually get the concrete place to cut to length. Seen many LLT’s made from sonotube. Best part is, they’re LIGHT! Basically the weight of the driver, and baffles. Choose your amp and done. Also, if you don’t want to make the baffle cuts. Find a custom car audio shop, or cab maker to cut the rounds for baffles. They can even cut the hole/s for ports. Go to PE and get a port kit for correct tuning and done. Google sonosub for plenty of ideas. And sonosub free sub designer software to get the right size for tuning based off the T/S parameters. Winisd or bass box can help design subs too.
I actually had planned a sonotube sub about 10 years ago, but never went forward on it. But it's not out of the running. It's all about what will be the least amount of work, the most convenient, the best quality for the money and effort, and the easiest to troubleshoot, fix, replace parts, etc.

Very best,
 
MalVeauX

MalVeauX

Senior Audioholic
Hrm,

I keep coming back to HSU VTF-3 Mark 5's. Everything in one simple package, they look nice, long good warranty, all issues here in USA soil. As much as I want to build the Mini-Martys or Marty-Cubes even, if I don't have an equipment room those fans will be loud and if a blow up the amp or something, the warranty on that is over-the-pond stuff. Maybe up front I can start with the VTF-3 Mark 5's (two of them) to have it functional. But man I know the Mini-Marty pair would be pretty much end game for life...

Very best,
 
panteragstk

panteragstk

Audioholic Warlord
So is this just a typical slotted port design or something different? The air path almost has a sorta TL look, but with only 1 bend.

View attachment 46150
From what I know it's sort of a TL, but more of a method of getting a good long port in the box.

When I get the time I'll build a few of these for the theater, but I'll stick with my 4 tiny infinity 12's for now. Still haven't had a chance to tweak them yet.
 
I

i_max

Junior Audioholic
Hrm,

I keep coming back to HSU VTF-3 Mark 5's. Everything in one simple package, they look nice, long good warranty, all issues here in USA soil. As much as I want to build the Mini-Martys or Marty-Cubes even, if I don't have an equipment room those fans will be loud and if a blow up the amp or something, the warranty on that is over-the-pond stuff. Maybe up front I can start with the VTF-3 Mark 5's (two of them) to have it functional. But man I know the Mini-Marty pair would be pretty much end game for life...

Very best,
The VTF3’s are excellent value under $1k, almost as good as a response as their elder brother.
 

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