Marantz sr5013 red light blinking

K

Klipschoholic

Audioholic Intern
@UltraCube, Two AVR's doing the same thing? from the same Manufacturer plus OP has the same issue, 3 of them Wow! kinda reminds me of my Miserable days with Onkyo AVR's and H/K AVR's. Borthers of the same Mothers huh? Ouch! This audio thing is Expensive. Especially when you gotta start replacing gear that should last longer. I see all the old timers Bailed out on OP thread. OP hasn't been back in 5 months my best guess he using his crapped out AVR as a door stop.
Since your a new member of AH, lots of Audio Dealers hangout on AH, Postup a new Thread asking "Help Me Decide" which AVR should I choose to replace my two Marantz sr6004 that has the same issue as the Marantz sr5013. Have you looked at any other AVR's? Denons? Lots of those are still Available check Amazon, Crutchfield bunch of Refurbished units on Accessories4less.
Lol I actually have to send my Marantz in to get repaired. Glad its under warranty. I went and bought a denon 4500 and so far so good. PENG helped me out a bunch with picking a new avr.
 
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G

Gmoney

Audioholic Ninja
Lol I actually have to send my Marantz in to get repaired. Glad its under warranty. I went and bought a denon 4500 and so far so good. Gene helped me out a bunch with picking a new avr.
Wow! 5 months and Pow here you are! I'm sure @PENG @lovinthehd @AcuDefTechGuy would've like to have known Where You Been! So @gene, give you good advice huh? I stated that @PENG is a well respected member and a Guru, guess I over estimated him, with his College degree in engineering and all. but he isn't a Qualified audio engineer like Gene. Gene is the Real thing all the others aren't. Great guys though, They do try their best to help anyone that my pop in on AH. I should've just posted up in my 1st post Suggesting you give Gene a call, 100 bucks is really not much when you Consider what real Doctors cost these days. Gene is a Specialist after all. Think like when you go to your Regular doctor, he tells you, you need these pills hands you a prescription pad you take that Prescription pad to your Favorite Pharmacist, he gives you them Special pills. Than you have to go back to your Regular doctor cause them Special pills you got from your favorite pharmacist didn't make you feel better. Your Regular doctor writes you another prescription to go see a specialist Doctor. Well same thing with Audio Engineers Gene is a MPHD, that's Acronyms for Master Professor Higher Doctor, than PENG, AcuDeFTechGuy, they have BS Degrees they went to college also, Lovinthehd, hangs out a lot on AH like me and many other's. AcuDeFTechGuy is a real Pharmacist. PENG is a Engineer but not a Master Professor but without the HD. Lovinthehd may have a HD can't say but it is last on his name could stand for anything like loviin the Hard Di$k, I'm not real up todate with Acronyms. Just remember next time when you click on Genes website his home page when you Scroll down to the bottom you'll see the phone number, if you haven't used it yet I highly recommend calling into Genes office, his Receptionist will take your information make an appointment and Gene himself will speak with you. 100 bucks for a One Hour Phone Consultation. Pass that on to your friend's.
 
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K

Klipschoholic

Audioholic Intern
Wow! 5 months and Pow here you are! I'm sure @PENG @lovinthehd @AcuDefTechGuy would've like to have known Where You Been! So @gene, give you good advice huh? I stated that @PENG is a well respected member and a Guru, guess I over estimated him, with his College degree in engineering and all. but he isn't a Qualified audio engineer like Gene. Gene is the Real thing all the others aren't. Great guys though, They do try their best to help anyone that my pop in on AH. I should've just posted up in my 1st post Suggesting you give Gene a call, 100 bucks is really not much when you Consider what real Doctors cost these days. Gene is a Specialist after all. Think like when you go to your Regular doctor, he tells you, you needed these pills hands you a prescription pad you take that Prescription pad to your Favorite Pharmacist, he gives you them Special pills. Than you have to go back to your Regular doctor cause them Special pills you got from your favorite pharmacist didn't make you feel better. Your Regular doctor writes you another prescription to go see a specialist Doctor. Well same thing with Audio Engineers Gene is a MPHD, that's Acronyms for Master Professor Higher Doctor, than PENG, AcuDeFTechGuy, they have BS Degrees they went to college also, Lovinthehd, hangs out a lot on AH like me and many other's. AcuDeFTechGuy is a real Pharmacist. PENG is a Engineer but not a Master Professor but without the HD. Lovinthehd may have a HD can't say but it is last on his name could stand for anything like loviin the Hard Di$k, I'm not real up todate with Acronyms. Just remember next time when you click on Genes website his home page when you Scroll down to the bottom you'll see the phone number, if you haven't used it yet I highly recommend calling into Genes office, his Receptionist will take your information make an appointment and Gene himself will speak with you. 100 bucks for a One Hour Phone Consultation. Pass that on to your friend's.
Sorry it was PENG that I talked to and walked me through a bunch of hidden diagnostic screens on my marantz and was able to pull a code on what was wrong with it. This forum has been amazing and with help. Oh and I pay shipping to have my marantz repaired but will get the money back after the repair has been done. I will be selling my marantz sr5013 once it has been repaired so if anyone you know or reading this just direct message me im willing to let it go for like $300-400.
 
G

Gmoney

Audioholic Ninja
Sorry it was PENG that I talked to and walked me through a bunch of hidden diagnostic screens on my marantz and was able to pull a code on what was wrong with it. This forum has been amazing and with help. Oh and I pay shipping to have my marantz repaired but will get the money back after the repair has been done. I will be selling my marantz sr5013 once it has been repaired so if anyone you know or reading this just direct message me im willing to let it go for like $300-400.
30O-400 for a two year old AVR that isn't repaired yet? You believe after 5 months they still working on your Marantz sr5013? You think @UltraCube that has two crapped out Marantz sr6004's with the same issues as your Marantz sr5013 AVR may need some of your great Advice that you got from @gene? Wait you did say @gene helped you in your post back after being in Incognito after 5 months? That new AH member @UltraCube is begging for help and No Gurus have showed up yet. Maybe postup of how @gene was able help you Figure out all those Blinking codes that helped you Troubleshoot your crapped out Marantz sr5013 should be the same his Marantz is a SR model like yours.
 
K

Klipschoholic

Audioholic Intern
I still haven't sent it in. It's just sitting in my basement. This is what PENG sent me on the steps to see fault codes.

While holding down buttons "ZONE2 SOURCE" AND "STATUS" simultaneously, press the power button to turn on the power.

Select the "2. PROTECTION" USING THE "TUNER PRESET CH+/-" button. then press the "STATUS" BUTTON to confirm.

Protection information and displays:

Press the "STATUS" button in Protection History display Mode.
The protection history can be checked as follow:

a) If no protection has occurred.

L1 - PROTECT
L2 - HISTORY
L3 - NO

b) ASO (If the last protection is ASO)

L3 - ASO

Cause: A short circuit occurred between the speaker terminals,, or speakers with an impedance outside the rating were connected.
Note: Short circuits in speaker terminals or speakers can be identified. If the power is turned on in the abnormal state, protection is activated after around 6 seconds and the power is turned off.

c) DC (if the last protection is DC)

L3 - DC

Cause: DC output of the power amplifier is abnormal.
If the power is turned on in the abnormal state, protection is activated after around 6 seconds and the power is turned off.

d) THERMAL ( if the last protection is THERMAL(A) or THERMAL(b) OR THERMAL(E) )

L3 - THM A
L3 - THM B
L3 - THM E

Cause: Abnormal heat sink temperature.
If the power is turned on under abnormal conditions, the protection function works immediately and the power is turned off.

e) Case of CURRENT (when the last protection incident is CURRENT protection)

L3 - CURRENT

Cause: An over current flowed in power amp.
 
UltraCube

UltraCube

Audiophyte
@UltraCube, Two AVR's doing the same thing? from the same Manufacturer plus OP has the same issue, 3 of them Wow! kinda reminds me of my Miserable days with Onkyo AVR's and H/K AVR's. Borthers of the same Mothers huh? Ouch! This audio thing is Expensive. Especially when you gotta start replacing gear that should last longer. I see all the old timers Bailed out on OP thread. OP hasn't been back in 5 months my best guess he using his crapped out AVR as a door stop.
Since your a new member of AH, lots of Audio Dealers hangout on AH, Postup a new Thread asking "Help Me Decide" which AVR should I choose to replace my two Marantz sr6004 that has the same issue as the Marantz sr5013. Have you looked at any other AVR's? Denons? Lots of those are still Available check Amazon, Crutchfield bunch of Refurbished units on Accessories4less.
Yes, 2 of them! I used to be able to get them out but its been a challenge!
I even got so pissed off with one I threw it out into my garage making sure it contacted the cement! Well, they are tough!...I plugged It in and was able to reset it. It worked for like a month then tripped again...
I am probably going to go with a lower end Denon. This experience has burnt me bad. I already have a Denon in another room and besides fixing a known display issue (change a resistor), it works great!
 
UltraCube

UltraCube

Audiophyte
I still haven't sent it in. It's just sitting in my basement. This is what PENG sent me on the steps to see fault codes.

While holding down buttons "ZONE2 SOURCE" AND "STATUS" simultaneously, press the power button to turn on the power.

Select the "2. PROTECTION" USING THE "TUNER PRESET CH+/-" button. then press the "STATUS" BUTTON to confirm.

Protection information and displays:

Press the "STATUS" button in Protection History display Mode.
The protection history can be checked as follow:

a) If no protection has occurred.

L1 - PROTECT
L2 - HISTORY
L3 - NO

b) ASO (If the last protection is ASO)

L3 - ASO

Cause: A short circuit occurred between the speaker terminals,, or speakers with an impedance outside the rating were connected.
Note: Short circuits in speaker terminals or speakers can be identified. If the power is turned on in the abnormal state, protection is activated after around 6 seconds and the power is turned off.

c) DC (if the last protection is DC)

L3 - DC

Cause: DC output of the power amplifier is abnormal.
If the power is turned on in the abnormal state, protection is activated after around 6 seconds and the power is turned off.

d) THERMAL ( if the last protection is THERMAL(A) or THERMAL(b) OR THERMAL(E) )

L3 - THM A
L3 - THM B
L3 - THM E

Cause: Abnormal heat sink temperature.
If the power is turned on under abnormal conditions, the protection function works immediately and the power is turned off.

e) Case of CURRENT (when the last protection incident is CURRENT protection)

L3 - CURRENT

Cause: An over current flowed in power amp.
I do not have those specific button on the front of my models unfortunately.
 
TLS Guy

TLS Guy

Seriously, I have no life.
Well thanks to PENG I got the receivers protection history and its is showing a DC fault.
That means it has excess DC offset. This almost always means that a power transistor in one of the power amps is breaking down. You have to hope when this happens that protection works fast, as otherwise the DC offset burns out a woofer voice coil. The reason this occurred as you advanced the volume even with no load, is because the output voltage increased and current would flow in the holes that had been punched thought the semiconductor material in the failing transistor..

Causes are impurities getting into the device at manufacture, overpowering and excess heat. Low impedance loads being a contributing factor.
The impurity issue is most likely to show up when the unit is relatively new.

Now the chance of this happening in each amp is the same. So as you add amps, the statistical chance of this happening increases proportionately. So an eleven channel amp is statistically more than twice as likely to fail as a 5 channel one.

This is just one of the reasons I am so opposed to adding multiple amps to one box. This makes a pre/pro and multiple single or two channel amps statistically a much better option to avoid total failure.

Lastly remember that none of the receiver manufacturers make their own semiconductor devices and so these failures are too an extent beyond their control. However if you are going to cram so many components into one box, then there comes a point where you have to greatly increase price and go to auto grade and even aviation/military grade components. In my view complexity is now risking unacceptable failure rates unless the model changes.
 
M Code

M Code

Audioholic General
If (2) units have failed... :rolleyes:
The basic question is..
Did the units have the recommended 4-5" of free-air clearance for the L/R sides and top cover?
And no component stacked on top?
If the air flow is restricted, the unit will overheat that can/will damage major internal components. Thermal/heat buildup is a major issue for the later AVRs that pack more amplifier channels into the box while decreasing any component overdesigning for the power supply and heat sinking area that previous generations typically had....

Just my $0.02... ;)
 
UltraCube

UltraCube

Audiophyte
If (2) units have failed... :rolleyes:
The basic question is..
Did the units have the recommended 4-5" of free-air clearance for the L/R sides and top cover?
And no component stacked on top?
If the air flow is restricted, the unit will overheat that can/will damage major internal components. Thermal/heat buildup is a major issue for the later AVRs that pack more amplifier channels into the box while decreasing any component overdesigning for the power supply and heat sinking area that previous generations typically had....

Just my $0.02... ;)
They sure did! I’m not the type to disregard instructions! My OCD won’t let me. I bought the units brand new and one was 8-10months after the first. After the one receiver tripped, I first thing I thought of was air flow. So I decided to put a fan pointed at my unit anyways. They both worked great for a few years then,, after about the same time the first one tripped, the second one did as well.
 
Verdinut

Verdinut

Audioholic Spartan
They sure did! I’m not the type to disregard instructions! My OCD won’t let me. I bought the units brand new and one was 8-10months after the first. After the one receiver tripped, I first thing I thought of was air flow. So I decided to put a fan pointed at my unit anyways. They both worked great for a few years then,, after about the same time the first one tripped, the second one did as well.
You say that you put a fan pointed at your units. Do you mean that it was pushing the hot air into the AVR instead of pulling it out of it? That would explain why the AVRs overheated and ensuing damage to the components.
 
UltraCube

UltraCube

Audiophyte
You say that you put a fan pointed at your units. Do you mean that it was pushing the hot air into the AVR instead of pulling it out of it? That would explain why the AVRs overheated and ensuing damage to the components.
No, I had a fan one ONE of the units after the first one tripped. It didn’t matter however...
 
AcuDefTechGuy

AcuDefTechGuy

Audioholic Jedi
I have 2 SR6004 that are doing the same thing, SO frustrating!!!
I already have a Denon in another room and besides fixing a known display issue (change a resistor), it works great!
I am probably going to go with a lower end Denon.
So 2 Marantz issues + 1 Denon issue that requires changing out the resistor.

Denon and Marantz are basically the same “DM” company. I would bet they have similar reliability.
 
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