Welcome to AudioHolics Dooner94
! Don't apologize for asking questions. The only stupid questions are the ones you don't ask.
My (
probably stupid) questions are:
- Which measurement am I better following, daytons or the calculators?
- If daytons then what port dimensions would I need to use?
- Are there any ideal actual dimensions (as in length, width and height) I should be using or will any do as long as the interior volume is correct?
- Is that volume absolute or is it a minimum volume?
The
Parts Express web page for the ND65-8 drivers doesn't provide enough information. They did recommend cabinet volumes for sealed or vented cabinets, but they never mentioned port tube diameter or length:
Optimum Cabinet Size (determined using BassBox 6 Pro High Fidelity)
- Sealed Volume 0.02 ft.³
- Sealed F3 111 Hz
- Vented Volume 0.05 ft.³
- Vented F3 55 Hz
F3, is the bass frequency where the speaker's output has dropped by 3 dB. You can think of the F3 frequency as a single number description of the speaker/cabinet combination's lowest useful bass performance.
With a 0.05 ft³ cabinet (interior volume) you can choose a number of L×W×H dimensions, as long as W is wide enough for those drivers, and as long as L allows the port tube to fit inside without coming too close to the rear inside wall. Use the tube's diameter as a guide – keep the inside edge of the tube one diameter's distance from the inside wall.
Also, near the top of that page, there is this tidbit:
"When teamed up with the matching ND series passive radiators this driver can produce incredible full sound from compact enclosures."
A passive radiator (a driver cone & support without a electromagnet or voice coil) works similar to a port tube. And you would use it instead of a port tube. Of course, it will cost more than a port tube.
I'd call Parts Express and talk to technical help. Ask them the same questions you asked here.