AVR recommendations and feed back request

[PENG]

@PENG Wait, I thought at 8 Ohms, they were the same, but dropping to 4 Ohms 1W/m would equal 2V/m or am I missing something?

Anyway, it is fun to play around with and should be shown to anyone wanting to upgrade their amp simply for MORE POWER!!!1! The results would most likely surprise them...

Not that you missed anything but you might have something mixed up. Let me try the following to see if it clears things up for you:

That calculator is based on sensitivity specified as X dB/1W/1m.

1) For 8 ohm nominal speakers, you are correct, whether the speaker is specified as say 90 dB/2.83V/1m, or 90 dB/1W/1m the calculated result will be the same.

2) For speakers with nominal impedance not equal to 8 ohms, example: 4 ohm: In that case, as long as it is specified in 1W/1m, example: 90 dB/1W/1m, then you can again use the calculator the same way, that is, just enter 90 for sensitivity, without making any adjustments to the result.

Confusion arises when:

Speaker's nominal impedance is NOT 8 ohms, and sensitivity is specified as dB/2.83V/1m instead of the calculator's expected format of dB/1W/1m.

That's when you have to either:

a) Enter the sensitivity spec as it, but adjust the calculated results accordingly, or
b) De-rate the sensitivity spec before entering it into the calculator accordingly, so that you don't need to adjust the calculated value.

I have developed my own spreadsheet for any nominal impedance values so I don't have to calculate the required adjustments every time, but for convenience, the following examples for such adjustments may be all that is required for most speakers.

For speakers specified as X dB/2.83V/1m, de-rate the specified sensitivity as below before entering into the calculator, so that the calculated result will be correct. Or enter enter the sensitivity spec as is, but adjust the calculated results accordingly.

Here are some examples for such adjustments:

For 8 ohm nominal - No change required.
For 7 ohm nominal - Subtract 0.58 dB
For 6 ohm nominal - Subtract 1.25 dB
For 5 ohm nominal - Subtract 2.04 dB
For 4 ohm nominal - Subtract 3 dB
For 3 ohm nominal - Subtract 4.26 dB
For 2 ohm nominal - Subtract 6 dB

 

[John Parks]

Not that you missed anything but you might have something mixed up. Let me try the following to see if it clears things up for you:

That calculator is based on sensitivity specified as X dB/1W/1m.

1) For 8 ohm nominal speakers, you are correct, whether the speaker is specified as say 90 dB/2.83V/1m, or 90 dB/1W/1m the calculated result will be the same.

2) For speakers with nominal impedance not equal to 8 ohms, example: 4 ohm: In that case, as long as it is specified in 1W/1m, example: 90 dB/1W/1m, then you can again use the calculator the same way, that is, just enter 90 for sensitivity, without making any adjustments to the result.

Confusion arises when:

Speaker's nominal impedance is NOT 8 ohms, and sensitivity is specified as dB/2.83V/1m instead of the calculator's expected format of dB/1W/1m.

That's when you have to either:

a) Enter the sensitivity spec as it, but adjust the calculated results accordingly, or
b) De-rate the sensitivity spec before entering it into the calculator accordingly, so that you don't need to adjust the calculated value.

I have developed my own spreadsheet for any nominal impedance values so I don't have to calculate the required adjustments every time, but for convenience, the following examples for such adjustments may be all that is required for most speakers.

For speakers specified as X dB/2.83V/1m, de-rate the specified sensitivity as below before entering into the calculator, so that the calculated result will be correct. Or enter enter the sensitivity spec as is, but adjust the calculated results accordingly.

Here are some examples for such adjustments:

For 8 ohm nominal - No change required.
For 7 ohm nominal - Subtract 0.58 dB
For 6 ohm nominal - Subtract 1.25 dB
For 5 ohm nominal - Subtract 2.04 dB
For 4 ohm nominal - Subtract 3 dB
For 3 ohm nominal - Subtract 4.26 dB
For 2 ohm nominal - Subtract 6 dB

Excellent - thank you!

 

[Zildjianmeister]

@Lattegirl I think you'll be fine just adding an external amp unless you want DTS (which our Yamaha doesn't have) or the newer codecs and hdmi. The pre-outs work fine on the 992.

Z

 

[CoryW]

Lattegirl,
I have an RXV-992 as well that I bought in 1998. It's a great receiver and they don't make them like that anymore. I believe Gene had one in the past as well. If I change to another receiver, I'm looking at Yamaha based on my experience.

However you could always keep it and just add an amp to it no? That's what I did. Unless you want the DTS and the new formats. I've been getting away without needing them so far. As my music source I have an integrated amp (in hindsight I probably should have just got a regular two channel amp) and put it in bypass mode to power the front 2 channels for movies.

Z

I concur. I have owned a few HTR series and enjoyed them. Then enter the RXV-3800. It’s one the most enjoyable sounding receiver I have owned since my Nakamichi puked. They make an amazing sounding equipment.