Denon/Marantz vs Yamaha vs Anthem Thread

[PENG]

Stereophile:

S&V:

AH is 1/12:

The Stereophile FR looks a lot smoother than Audioholics. So if AH is 1/12, I'm thinking Stereophile has to be more like 1/6?

So I will use 1/12 like Audioholics.

Yep, that's why I typically use 1/12 too, for apples to apples comparison. When @Pogre, @William Lemmerhirt and I compare our Audyssey/miniDSP EQ's FR for the lower range (in the neighborhood of 15-200 Hz range),we would go as high as 1/48.

I agree that Stereophile's look a little smoother than Gene's, but I am quite sure that's because they do the quasi anechoic thing that Shady did too, so they would appear to be smoother even at higher resolution such as 1/24 or even 1/48 or even no smoothing.

 

[AcuDefTechGuy]

Dennis Murphy told me he didn't use any smoothing, but he shorten the sampling window to get some sort of quasi anechioc response. If you shorten it to a few microseconds, you would loose a lot of resolution in the lower frequency range. I believe that's why Shady presented his FR graphs for the BMRs in the 300-20 kHz range iirc.

How do you change this sampling window? Is this the same as Time Gating or Time Windowing?

Should it be set to 10 ms?

 

[PENG]

How do you change this sampling window? Is this the same as Time Gating or Time Windowing?

Should it be set to 10 ms?

It's the IR window:

If you want to learn more about that, just click "Help" ans search for IR Window.

Shady used 8.5 ms for his BMR measurements.

https://www.audioholics.com/bookshelf-speaker-reviews/bmr-philharmonitor-1/conclusion

 

[AcuDefTechGuy]

It's the IR window:

View attachment 30242

If you want to learn more about that, just click "Help" ans search for IR Window.

Shady used 8.5 ms for his BMR measurements.

What is the window in that screen shot? It says "Left Window 125 ms", "Right Window 500 ms", "Window Reference Time 0 ms".

 

[PENG]

What is the window in that screen shot? It says "Left Window 125 ms", "Right Window 500 ms", "Window Reference Time 0 ms".

Use the right windows to smooth things off, e.g. change the 500 ms to 100, 50 ms, or lower. For detailed explanation I would have to re-read the stuff, don't really want to go by memory.

 

[AcuDefTechGuy]

Use the right windows to smooth things off, e.g. change the 500 ms to 100, 50 ms, or lower. For detailed explanation I would have to re-read the stuff, don't really want to go by memory.

I see. So just play with the Right Window number and leave everything else alone.

Right Window = 8.5 ms (example)
Left Window = 125 ms
Reference = 0 ms

 

[PENG]

I see. So just play with the Right Window number and leave everything else alone.

Right Window = 8.5 ms (example)
Left Window = 125 ms
Reference = 0 ms

Yes, and if you want to get some idea about how to determine the timing of the first reflection (example: from the floor) using REW instead of by doing the calculation yourself, you can read the article linked below.

Read the paragraph under "Gated measurements"
https://www.minidsp.com/applications/acoustic-measurements/loudspeaker-measurements

 

[KEW]

Yes, and if you want to get some idea about how to determine the timing of the first reflection (example: from the floor) using REW instead of by doing the calculation yourself, you can read the article linked below.

Read the paragraph under "Gated measurements"
https://www.minidsp.com/applications/acoustic-measurements/loudspeaker-measurements

PENG this is some great info for anyone starting to use REW. I hope after it runs its course you will reproduce it under a "Getting started with REW" Thread or get a moderator to make it a permanent fixture!
Having it on pages 36, 37, etc in the "Denon/Marantz vs Yamaha vs Anthem Thread" is too obscure for such useful info!

 

[snakeeyes]

@KEW I’m sure @AcuDefTechGuy will make 25,000 posts on it, once he gets the hang of it. LOL

 

[ryanosaur]

drop the umik-1 and walk away.

 

[Ken32]

Just ordered a pair of RP600M to try out. They've got rave reviews all over. Lets see how they perform in my setting.

 

[William Lemmerhirt]

drop the umik-1 and walk away.

Lol!!!
Here’s my post...

Umik drop...BOOM...

 

[sakete]

Well, I got my A2070 today, refurbished version from A4L. I would say they sound great, but my speakers don't arrive until tomorrow

So far it seems to work fine, did the firmware update to 2.7 and setup hdmi audio pass through to my TV so I can actually hear what I'm watching.

 

[KEW]

Well, I got my A2070 today, refurbished version from A4L. I would say they sound great, but my speakers don't arrive until tomorrow

So far it seems to work fine, did the firmware update to 2.7 and setup hdmi audio pass through to my TV so I can actually hear what I'm watching.

Congratulations!
Looking forward to your impressions of the Revel F36's once you get them up and running!

 

[sakete]

Question about using the Yamaha web setup (ipaddress/setup). When I try to change settings, nothing seems to change or stick. For example, when I try to disable Autoplay for the streaming inputs, they all stay at On (see below). My receiver is in standby mode when I try to change these settings.

Edit: nevermind, first turning on receiver and then changing settings makes it all stick

 

[sakete]

Other question. My Revel F36 is rated at 6 ohms. Recommend to change impedance setting on receiver to 6 ohms as well?

 

[snakeeyes]

Other question. My Revel F36 is rated at 6 ohms. Recommend to change impedance setting on receiver to 6 ohms as well?

No. Keep it at 8ohms. Changing to 6 just limits the power.

 

[KEW]

Other question. My Revel F36 is rated at 6 ohms. Recommend to change impedance setting on receiver to 6 ohms as well?

This is such a BS situation!
Snakeeyes has it right (as usual).
Here is more discussion to help you understand why you should ignore the well labelled cautions on the back of your AVR and in the manual:

Or, if you'd rather read about it:
https://www.audioholics.com/audio-amplifier/impedance-selector-switch-1

 

[Ken32]

Spent hours with the RP600M speakers and they're already back in the box ready to go back.

They are far too bright for my taste. I was slowly getting a headache listening to them. Fatigue set in rather quickly as it did with other Klipsch I've heard. Though, not as fast. Everything was listened to in Direct mode.

My recent hearing test indicates i can hear up to 19,000Hz (which from a graph that I've seen, which was presented to me by @AcuDefTechGuy, shows they have a +4 boost in treble around that mark.) I guess it explains why I cannot stand to listen to their speakers (Too sensitive to the upper frequencies).

I don't know what my wife can hear at... But she listened to a few songs with me after she got home from work and said "Jesus, how can anyone stand to listen to these for long periods of time" She must be sensitive up top as well.

Not knocking Klipsch or peoples preference towards them, they're just simply not for me. I figured by the reviews and how much more "smooth" people said they were compared to their older stuff, that I'd give it a try. Still not an improvement for my ears to buy a pair.

The best horn tweeters I've heard so far (ribbon) are the HTD level 3 towers. Detailed and smooth as silk. Probably be my next speaker i get if i get sick of B&W.

 

[hemiram]

The new Klipsch stuff does seem to be smoother than the old, but not nearly smooth enough for me to mess with.

Brightest speakers I've heard recently are the Q Acoustics 3020's that I liked at the store, and totally hated at home. Just all top end, with nothing down below. They almost sounded to me like they were out of phase, so I swapped one set of cables' polarity and, well, they weren't out of phase. I need to sell those things. I hate them even on my PC, where I have an old set of Yamaha bookshelves, can't remember the model, running off a Yamaha mini receiver. I have no problems listening to them all day.