Yamaha Owners’ Thread (AVR, Pre-pro, Amp)

highfigh

highfigh

Seriously, I have no life.
Could you explain this failure please and how to avoid it.

Thanks
If someone tries to EQ a room without knowing its response, the result can't be good unless that person knows something nobody else does. The room response MUST be known before any equalization or treatment can be attempted. The room will affect the sound more than anything, other than the listener's hearing. Equalization can help with some acoustical issues, but treatment is more effective. Once it's close, it should be tested again, then a determination as to whether it's "good enough" or "it still needs tweaking". The rest of the electronic gear makes far less difference than the speakers, the room or the listener's hearing. This is the reason any wild claims by manufactures need to be considered as "GMAB!" (Give Me A Break!). In most rooms, nit-picky differences can't be heard easily and discerning them at all is almost impossible.
 
ellisr63

ellisr63

Full Audioholic
So when you go into MusicCast and it lists all the possible DEVICES for streaming (phone, iPad, etc.),it doesn't list AMAZON ECHO as a device?

That's too bad. If MusicCast can find phones and tablets via WiFi as devices, I wonder why it can't find Echo as a device using WiFi?
I just went into Music Cast again, and i do see the Alexa showing up... I need to get the account info from my wife to see just what it will do with Musicast now.
 
AcuDefTechGuy

AcuDefTechGuy

Audioholic Jedi
I just went into Music Cast again, and i do see the Alexa showing up... I need to get the account info from my wife to see just what it will do with Musicast now.
Oh, the suspense. :D

Plan A: connect MusicCast to Alexa directly.

Plan B: connect MusicCast to Alexa's Bluetooth.
 
ellisr63

ellisr63

Full Audioholic
Well I have Alexa linked to Musicast...it will control the CXA5100, but i do not see anything for sending music from Alexa to the cxa5100. :(
 
AcuDefTechGuy

AcuDefTechGuy

Audioholic Jedi
Well I have Alexa linked to Musicast...it will control the CXA5100, but i do not see anything for sending music from Alexa to the cxa5100. :(
So if you have Eco playing music and you use your MusicCast app to select "Alexa" as a Device or Source, it won't continue playing the music through the Yamaha?

If not, then what about using BT on Echo and select BT as a source?
 
Good4it

Good4it

Audioholic Chief
Couldn’t pair my Alexa with my RX A3080. And I tried many different ways. Through Musiscast and my iPad works but not direct.
 
Last edited:
highfigh

highfigh

Seriously, I have no life.
I just went into Music Cast again, and i do see the Alexa showing up... I need to get the account info from my wife to see just what it will do with Musicast now.
It doesn't list all of the devices, it shows 'This Phone', for using it as a source. I haven't tried, but AFAIK, only one hand-held device can control the MusicCast at any time but any number can control it via IP.

I use my WXC-50 as my preamp and it works great. Try using the computer control interface, too- open the app, click on the gear to get into the settings and scroll to 'Advanced Settings...". The IP address will be at the top of the screen and if you enter that, it will go to the gui. I saved it to my bookmarks on all of my computers.
 
Ataraxia

Ataraxia

Audioholic Intern
If someone tries to EQ a room without knowing its response, the result can't be good unless that person knows something nobody else does. The room response MUST be known before any equalization or treatment can be attempted. The room will affect the sound more than anything, other than the listener's hearing. Equalization can help with some acoustical issues, but treatment is more effective. Once it's close, it should be tested again, then a determination as to whether it's "good enough" or "it still needs tweaking". The rest of the electronic gear makes far less difference than the speakers, the room or the listener's hearing. This is the reason any wild claims by manufactures need to be considered as "GMAB!" (Give Me A Break!). In most rooms, nit-picky differences can't be heard easily and discerning them at all is almost impossible.
Thanks for the explanation highfigh. Very simple and understandable. What would you recommend using to help understand your room response prior to possible EQ'ing? Is that what REW is for?
 
highfigh

highfigh

Seriously, I have no life.
Thanks for the explanation highfigh. Very simple and understandable. What would you recommend using to help understand your room response prior to possible EQ'ing? Is that what REW is for?
ANY RTA hardware and/or program/app is helpful, to whatever extent it's accurate, so yes- that's what REW does. It lets us see what's happening and that's a great tool- knowing what we're hearing is harder to define and it saves a lot of time and frustration because treating that one frequency or a range that we think is causing problems will result in failure if we aren't sure that it's what we need to address.

One good example- the low E on a bass guitar has a fundamental frequency of 41.2Hz, but what we "hear" when it's plucked is actually/usually the first harmonic, at 82.4Hz (subject to the player's ability to tune their instrument). Thinking that 41.2 Hz needs to be adjusted, which is often impossible because most equalizers don't have a slider for that exact frequency, has often resulted in blown woofers because the adjustment wasn't sufficient and the slider was boosted too much, and also because the woofer couldn't handle the added excursion. The only time the fundamental frequency will be dominant is if the string is plucked at the mid-point of its length, so the band that would be adjusted for the above example is somewhere near 82Hz, although the room may require some tweaking above or below. Another problem is room modes, also called 'standing waves'. An equalizer isn't the best tool for these- that's why acoustic treatments are used. You can try to reduce a standing wave that's too strong or too weak, but it's a naturally occurring phenomenon, so it's going to do what it wants.

If you use REW or some other RTA program/app and see a deep V in the response, divide that frequency by the speed of sound and you'll find that it coincides with a room dimension, or a multiple of a room dimension- remember, sound energy works in three dimensions, not two. This happens most frequently in the 50-120Hz range and if you move a padded chair into one of the corners, I would almost guarantee that you'll see a difference in the response.
 
highfigh

highfigh

Seriously, I have no life.
Couldn’t pair my Alexa with my RX A3080. And I tried many different ways. Through Musiscast and my iPad works but not direct.
Google 'pair Yamaha AV receiver with Alexa' and you'll probably find a lot of links that tell you to go into the Alexa Skills area and add the AVR.
 
AcuDefTechGuy

AcuDefTechGuy

Audioholic Jedi
In case anyone is interested in the DAC of the CX-A5200:

The CX-A5200 has 2 DACs for the 13 channels. Both are ESS ES9026PRO, which is a 384 kHz/ 32-bit DAC. One of the DACs handles the Front, Center, Surround, and Surround Back channels (7 CH of DAC). The other DAC handles Front Presence, Rear Presence, both subwoofers, and Zone 2/3 (8 CH of DAC).

So it uses a total of 15 Channels of DAC.
 
AcuDefTechGuy

AcuDefTechGuy

Audioholic Jedi
Here is the audio signal info on MusicCast (Streaming from Samsung S9+ to Yamaha).

192 kHz/ 24-bit = 9216 kbps
96 kHz/ 24-bit = 4608 kbps

I tried playing Apple Lossless 196 kHz/ 24 bit, but it would not play- it would only play 96 kHz/ 24 bit, which is what Yamaha said about Apple Lossless.

WAV and FLAC played just fine at 196 kHz/ 24 bit.


WAV file:


FLAC file:


Apple Lossless (NeuralX):
 
AcuDefTechGuy

AcuDefTechGuy

Audioholic Jedi
Audio Signal for some movies. Some movies have a +4dB Dialogue Boost and some have +0dB.

Hunter Killer:


Cliffhanger:


Snow White and the Huntsman:
 
AcuDefTechGuy

AcuDefTechGuy

Audioholic Jedi
I've been playing around with the Yamaha Parametric EQ (PEQ).

I believe previously we couldn't adjust the subwoofer EQ below 31Hz using the menu; we had to use the Web interface.

But now, we can use the menu to adjust the Sub EQ down to 15Hz. I assume a firmware made that possible somewhere along the way. :D
 
D

downbythepylons

Audioholic Intern
Hello All

Im a relative newb with a x683 in a basic 5.2 set up and have a couple of basic questions

1) I have always used the "surround" dsp preset, assuming it simply decoded what ever type of signal was coming in natively. Recently when ever I use this setting it defaults to neural x. I don't know much about neural but first, why would it now seem to be fixed on this setting? And two, why would neural x even show up if I height or Atmos channels are set to off?

2) what is the best way to ensure the best picture quality and how do you verify the HDMI video setting. For some reason, I think my unit is set a 720 although I have 1080 source material. My internet is down in that room so I'm only using Fios as source and can't check and see any other video source at the moment but would appreciate any advice how to set video settings and or make sure I am running the best quality video source setting .

thanks
 
AcuDefTechGuy

AcuDefTechGuy

Audioholic Jedi
Hello All

Im a relative newb with a x683 in a basic 5.2 set up and have a couple of basic questions

1) I have always used the "surround" dsp preset, assuming it simply decoded what ever type of signal was coming in natively. Recently when ever I use this setting it defaults to neural x. I don't know much about neural but first, why would it now seem to be fixed on this setting? And two, why would neural x even show up if I height or Atmos channels are set to off?

2) what is the best way to ensure the best picture quality and how do you verify the HDMI video setting. For some reason, I think my unit is set a 720 although I have 1080 source material. My internet is down in that room so I'm only using Fios as source and can't check and see any other video source at the moment but would appreciate any advice how to set video settings and or make sure I am running the best quality video source setting .

thanks
DSP:
1. set it to “Straight” if you want Pass-Through (original) DD or DTS, etc.
2. Use “Surround Decoder” to toggle through the different UPMIX surround modes, the 2 salient modes are “Dolby Surround” and “NeuralX”.

So you can toggle through the different modes.

Dolby Surround will try to turn all sources (2Ch and MCH) to Dolby Digital or Dolby Atmos (if you are set up for Atmos).

NeuralX will try to turn all sources to DTS or DTSX.

For Video Mode, use “Direct” to Bypass or Pass-Through the video. Or use “Processing” and “Auto” to convert all HDMI sources to the resolution of your TV.
 
D

DonMac

Audiophyte
Yamaha AV receiver firmware update v2.65 changed the Net Radio service provider from vTuner to Airable Radio. Although accounts at the vTuner website are still there for now, updated receivers can no longer access them.

A pretty major change, so I've been using the vTuner website to look up my old stations and gradually add the ones also available at Airable back to my receiver's emptied out Net Radio "Favorites" list (there doesn't seem to a website to do this online, so have to use the receiver's menus to look up and add each station, one-by-one).

I was surprised by this update - I actually installed it before reading what changes it was making - but Airable seems to work just as well as vTuner, so the only hassle is having to add my stations back and the disappointment when certain stations seem to be unavailable at Airable (although there are some new stations that were missing from vTuner, so there are some pluses with the change).
 
M Code

M Code

Audioholic General
Yamaha AV receiver firmware update v2.65 changed the Net Radio service provider from vTuner to Airable Radio. Although accounts at the vTuner website are still there for now, updated receivers can no longer access them.

A pretty major change, so I've been using the vTuner website to look up my old stations and gradually add the ones also available at Airable back to my receiver's emptied out Net Radio "Favorites" list (there doesn't seem to a website to do this online, so have to use the receiver's menus to look up and add each station, one-by-one).

I was surprised by this update - I actually installed it before reading what changes it was making - but Airable seems to work just as well as vTuner, so the only hassle is having to add my stations back and the disappointment when certain stations seem to be unavailable at Airable (although there are some new stations that were missing from vTuner, so there are some pluses with the change).
Here is the March press release for the subject changes..
.
https://au.yamaha.com/en/news_events/2019/0305_av_update_on_internet_radio_station_access.html

Just my $0.02... ;)
 
D

DonMac

Audiophyte
It's funny how the upgrade from vTuner to Airable is just like a minor blurb on the firmware update list without any documentation on how the functionality has changed or any sort of instructions about the new source for Net Radio.

I will add one correction to my earlier post: the best way to add stations after switching to Airable is to use the MusicCast app which, unlike the AV menus, has a "Search" function that makes finding and adding stations much easier.
 

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