Subwoofer not working

[LANCE1313]

Hello
First post and hoping for some guidance. I've recently moved and am setting up my home theater for the first time in months. As far as I am aware it was working fine before it was taken down.

I've set up my receiver (AVR-2803) and 5.1 system. All speakers are working fine. Sub (Mission MS10) is not playing any sound. Sub is plugged into the Sub Outlet in the Pre Out section of the Amp as per manual. I've cycled the test tones and the Sub produces no sound. The sub has power, red light when Amp is off and Green Light when amp is on. Sub Settings are ON, LFE, 80Hz crossover. I've tried two different cables without any luck.

I really have no idea where to go from here. I do not have another sub to test. I don't think I have anything else to hook up to the Sub to test it.

Suggestions more than welcome.

Thanks

 

[lovinthehd]

How do you have gain on the sub set? That's probably too easy, tho you didn't specify, so have to ask. Did you check sub level in the avr? What are you testing with source/signal-wise? You've "told" the avr there is a sub attached, but are speakers set to small (in case separate from crossover)?

With the right cable you can use perhaps your phone as another source, or possibly some other device but dont know what you have or if you may have the right cables should another device not have an rca output (a phone might need a 3.5 to rca adapter for example). All I can think of at the moment.....

Welcome to the forum....

 

[one more time]

First off, determine if the problem is the sub or the setup.

Plug in some sort of analog source directly (cd player?) into the sub's line level input. It should pump out some rumbly noise if it's working. If it does, you know the problem is with the receiver. If not, you know the sub died.

 

[LANCE1313]

Thank you so much for the quick replies.
Ok, will try to address above questions.

What do you have the Gain on the sub set?
- I don't actually know what this setting is or where it is set. I have the level in the setting at +15 db, is that the same thing?

What are you testing with?
Have been using and Xbox with optical out to my AVR. Testing using 5.1 surround test youtube videos and the built in AVR test tones.

Plug in some sort of analog source
- Hooked up a CD player. Used an RCA cable to hook up LT to the LFE on sub -> No Rumbling. Repeated with RT to LFE on Sub -> No rumbling.

My impression is that the sub is toast... Anything else to try or needs to go to the shop?

 

[lovinthehd]

When you say +15 is that the avr sub level or the level on the sub itself?

Youtube has 5.1 now?

Speakers set to small/use bass management? (sometimes the setting of a crossover does this, sometimes not).

Not sounding good so far, tho.

 

[LANCE1313]

+ 15 is the AVR sub level. The volume on the sub is ~ 2/3's. (No numeric scale)

I did reset my fronts from Large to small (sorry forgot to mention that in the last one)

YouTube does have 5.1 now! I was surprised too. The app supports it as least but there is very little content apparently. Mostly just stuff like a 5.1 test Video that's sole purpose is to be 5.1

I have no idea why the sub would have pooched. It's clearly getting older but it hasn't been overused. Always in good storage conditions. I've never had a power surge that i know of and it's always been on a surge protected power bar. I never heard a pop or anything...

 

[TLS Guy]

Well, you have moved. So the move may have had a wire come off the speaker driver.

Take out the speaker driver and have a good look around inside. If everything looks OK take out the amp and open it up. Check any fuses and see if anything is amiss.
If there is nothing you can fix, then you need to consider options carefully.

Now that is a European sub which is generally bad news. The spec shows the f3 point as 34 Hz, so by American standards that is not even a sub.

Sub class D amps are difficult to service and repair and not always possible.

So you other options are to put the amp back and mount speaker terminals on the sub and buy and external amp. The other is to try and fit a new sub amp.

If that is all too much trouble take it to the recycling center and get a proper sub.

Where are you located? This will have an impact on the advice given.

 

[LANCE1313]

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[LANCE1313]

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[LANCE1313]

I apologize for the about 2 dead posts. I needed to increase my post count to post the link below.

Well, you have moved. So the move may have had a wire come off the speaker driver.

Take out the speaker driver and have a good look around inside. If everything looks OK take out the amp and open it up. Check any fuses and see if anything is amiss.
If there is nothing you can fix, then you need to consider options carefully.

Now that is a European sub which is generally bad news. The spec shows the f3 point as 34 Hz, so by American standards that is not even a sub.

Sub class D amps are difficult to service and repair and not always possible.

So you other options are to put the amp back and mount speaker terminals on the sub and buy and external amp. The other is to try and fit a new sub amp.

If that is all too much trouble take it to the recycling center and get a proper sub.

Where are you located? This will have an impact on the advice given.

Thanks for the reply.
I'm a little taken aback by your assessment of my sub. I'm no expert in this stuff and it's been many years since i purchased the sub but my understanding was the I was purchasing pretty good equipment when it was new. I know it's not top shelf by audiophile standards but I was under the impression the Mission MS-10 was quite acceptable.

I put a link of someone else selling the same unit to make sure we're talking about the same thing.

https://picclick.co.uk/Mission-MS10-Active-Powered-Subwoofer-150-Watts-273583827156.html

You've made recommendations about popping the hood and looking inside. I think that might be beyond my skill set and I wouldn't know what I'm looking at.

You mention mounting speaker terminals on the sub. Doesn't my sub have speaker terminals. Can I not use that because you expect the Amp in my sub is broken?

I'm based out of Ontario, Canada.

 

[TLS Guy]

I apologize for the about 2 dead posts. I needed to increase my post count to post the link below.



Thanks for the reply.
I'm a little taken aback by your assessment of my sub. I'm no expert in this stuff and it's been many years since i purchased the sub but my understanding was the I was purchasing pretty good equipment when it was new. I know it's not top shelf by audiophile standards but I was under the impression the Mission MS-10 was quite acceptable.

I put a link of someone else selling the same unit to make sure we're talking about the same thing.

https://picclick.co.uk/Mission-MS10-Active-Powered-Subwoofer-150-Watts-273583827156.html

You've made recommendations about popping the hood and looking inside. I think that might be beyond my skill set and I wouldn't know what I'm looking at.

You mention mounting speaker terminals on the sub. Doesn't my sub have speaker terminals. Can I not use that because you expect the Amp in my sub is broken?

I'm based out of Ontario, Canada.

European subs don't really reach what us in the US call true sub range as a rule. For it to be proper sub the F3 point needs to be below 30 Hz and not above. The 3 db point is the frequency at which output is reduced by 3db. for your sub that is 34 Hz The response falls off at 24 db per octave below that point so for your sub by 22 Hz the output is 15 db down and that means not much.

The only decent UK sub manufacturer is B.K. Electronics of Southend on Sea.

Anyhow back to you sub, the first, and actually most likely issue given your move, is that a spade connector has fallen off the back of the sub.
I can't believe you would be incapable of using a screw driver to get the sub driver out! But we do live in strange times. So if you find only one wire on the driver, look for the other and place it back on with pliers.

Now if the driver is connected then the amp has failed. So you either have to get that one fixed which is likely to be difficult, expensive and possibly impossible.

Now you can not use the speaker terminal on the amp as they are connected to the failed amp and not the speaker. You need to put a new set on the sub and connect these terminals to the driver in place of current wires. Then you would need to buy an external amp and we can get into that later.

From what you say, making a new plate amp fit the enclosure may be beyond your capability.

If that is the case just buy a new sub. Anything else will defeat you unless you can pick up some practical manual skills. The latter is certainly an advantage in life and their absence a significant handicap.

I have found a YouTube video on how to remove a driver from a sub.

 

[LANCE1313]

Thank you for the video. I have removed the 8 screws surrounding the Driver. I have attempted to pull the driver out but can't seem to get it to come. I can't feel any lip or edge as described in the video. My sub also doesn't seem to have the outer ring that is in the video.

Having watched a number of videos trying to figure this out I can now appreciate what you mean by the spade connector has likely fallen off. Unfortunately I can't seem to access the inside of the box to check this out. I was unable to find any video referring to opening my sub or any other mission subwoofer specifically.

 

[TLS Guy]

Thank you for the video. I have removed the 8 screws surrounding the Driver. I have attempted to pull the driver out but can't seem to get it to come. I can't feel any lip or edge as described in the video. My sub also doesn't seem to have the outer ring that is in the video.

Having watched a number of videos trying to figure this out I can now appreciate what you mean by the spade connector has likely fallen off. Unfortunately I can't seem to access the inside of the box to check this out. I was unable to find any video referring to opening my sub or any other mission subwoofer specifically.

You will have to use a bit more "brute force and ignorance." There is a gasket behind the rim of the driver. This gets old and gooey. You will have to insert a flat blade and lever the driver out. It will come with patience and persistence. Remember that is the only way that driver went in, in the first place. So it has to come out the same way.

 

[LANCE1313]

Got the Gasket out. Connections look fine to me unfortunately. I took two pictures of the circuit board which also don't appear to have any issue. Suggestions on next steps other than trash heap?


again thanks for the help

 

[TLS Guy]

Got the Gasket out. Connections look fine to me unfortunately. I took two pictures of the circuit board which also don't appear to have any issue. Suggestions on next steps other than trash heap?


again thanks for the help
View attachment 28383View attachment 28384View attachment 28385

Well done getting the unit dismantled.

Unfortunately there is nothing that you can do to further the cause here.

As I have said that is not really a unit to become attached to. That woofer just from its appearance looks far from a top quality unit. Your unit is not made and in the UK is no longer on Mission's list of supported units. This is the Canadian Agent. They are in Quebec. You should know that unfortunately like a lot of UK brands, they are now owned by International Audio Group out of China. Manufacture is now largely in China. If you want you can see what Erikson Consumer have to say. I will be surprised if they give you the time of day.

The only way of realistically salvaging that sub is to fit an external amp. In honesty that unit does not look like one to put time and trouble into, unless you can get a reasonable 150 watt power amp used on eBay.

I think it best to give it a decent burial.

The nearest unit to what you have is this SVS sub on sale now. It has twice the power of yours and is actually a sub. The F3 is 19 Hz and not 34 Hz. That is a huge difference. All said and done that will probably be about the same cost as bodging yours back into service and you will actually have a sub and not a mid bass unit.
SVS customer service is renowned for going the extra mile.

 

[Sef_Makaro]

Got the Gasket out. Connections look fine to me unfortunately. I took two pictures of the circuit board which also don't appear to have any issue. Suggestions on next steps other than trash heap?


again thanks for the help
View attachment 28383View attachment 28384View attachment 28385

It may just be the angle and lighting in that picture but the connection in the negative terminal looks a little off compared to the positive.

 

[Sef_Makaro]

Well done getting the unit dismantled.

Unfortunately there is nothing that you can do to further the cause here.

As I have said that is not really a unit to become attached to. That woofer just from its appearance looks far from a top quality unit. Your unit is not made and in the UK is no longer on Mission's list of supported units. This is the Canadian Agent. They are in Quebec. You should know that unfortunately like a lot of UK brands, they are now owned by International Audio Group out of China. Manufacture is now largely in China. If you want you can see what Erikson Consumer have to say. I will be surprised if they give you the time of day.

The only way of realistically salvaging that sub is to fit an external amp. In honesty that unit does not look like one to put time and trouble into, unless you can get a reasonable 150 watt power amp used on eBay.

I think it best to give it a decent burial.

The nearest unit to what you have is this SVS sub on sale now. It has twice the power of yours and is actually a sub. The F3 is 19 Hz and not 34 Hz. That is a huge difference. All said and done that will probably be about the same cost as bodging yours back into service and you will actually have a sub and not a mid bass unit.
SVS customer service is renowned for going the extra mile.

I was about to argue the value of the PB-1000 vs the SB-2000, then I saw the cost difference on that site. I didn’t realize there was such a big difference out of country.

 

[TLS Guy]

I was about to argue the value of the PB-1000 vs the SB-2000, then I saw the cost difference on that site. I didn’t realize there was such a big difference out of country.

Socialism has a cost! We have some dangerous socialists gaining traction now in the US.

 

[GrimSurfer]

Agree with everything said to date here...

It's unlikely that you blew a driver. More likely the amp failed. Not to dis' Class D amps (they are superb for subs) but they can be fragile and easily killed by internal or external shorts, transient shorts, line spikes, etc.

I'd second everyone's motion on a new sub. SVS does make some good ones. As for price differential between the SB/PB 1000 and 2000, there's also the conundrum of whether two less less subs (1000s) are better sounding than one better one (2000).

Also do some reading on subs to help narrow down whether an SB or PB configuration would best meet you needs. Just don't buy a mixed pair.

Regardless, you've done more than many would do to track down the failure so well done. Don't throw the failed sub out. Rip it apart and see how it's built etc. You'll learn a lot in the process. Just unplug first

 

[m3incorp]

On your negative wire, it looks like it isn't contacting at the very top.....may be the lighting as stated above. Wiggle both wires where they connect to the sub and see if connections in the plastic are intact.