How do say a quality pair of subs. 15” svs react with a room 15w 23d with 8’ open ceiling with ceiling joist ?

ryanosaur

ryanosaur

Audioholic Overlord
Open ceiling? Like cathedral ceiling?
For room volume, you need to account for that, so a common slope is about 4'difference in the centerline...
(15*23*8)+.5(15*23*4)=3450'3
Which subs? SVS offers 16" in the ultra line, or 13" in the 4000 line. A pair of either would work well in that room.
 
ryanosaur

ryanosaur

Audioholic Overlord
As I'm thinking about it, the cathedral ceiling will actually help with bass acoustics, especially if you can spread your subs out a little.
Also consider Hsu VT15Hmk2, Outlaw X13, Monolith 15", and 15" subs from Rythmik. All good contenders. :)
 
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Brettc

Audioholic
It’s not a cathedral , it has an old tile that I tore out and just spayed it all black


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ryanosaur

ryanosaur

Audioholic Overlord
You could go a little smaller on the sub, and get a third, if you have a flat ceiling... the parallels are going to be what creates more diffivculties with room acoustics... maybe 3 vtf2s? Or 3 PB2000, or PC 2000s? ;) You'll still get good outpiut, but spreading those subs out will help overcome any standing waves.
 
ryanosaur

ryanosaur

Audioholic Overlord
Two big subs would be a great start though. ;) Just spread them out strategically for best bass response.
 
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Brettc

Audioholic
Flat with open rafters


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GrimSurfer

GrimSurfer

Senior Audioholic
Those open rafters might be a bit of a b*tch, acoustically speaking.

There are a lot of corner reflectors when the rafters run perpendicular to the length of the room.

So while conventional thinking is to use two or more subs in asymmetric locations to flatten room modes, you might want to address the room first (apologies if this is already part of your plan. Ignore what follows if this is the case.)

Ceiling tiles are kind of corny from a modern style perspective, but they can work to the audiophile's advantage.

First, decently-performing acoustic ceiling tile is widely available at very reasonable prices. Second, the space between the rafters is ideal for 6" or more of Roxul (aka Rockwool in certain markets) Safe n'Sound. This will absorb reflections by 50% or more down to around the 100 Hz level (sound absorbsion specs available on the Rookwool web site).

With acoustic batts, air gapping and acoustic ceiling tiles combined, you'd be virtually eliminating reflections from the ceiling.

Add some rugs to cover what appears to be a base for hardwood flooring, and some sound modest panels on the walls at the first reflection points, and you'd have an excellent space for one or two decent subs. You likely wouldn't need more than two, because the room would be reasonably controlled acoustically.
 
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Brettc

Audioholic
I know it’s a tough room to tune but it makes it so easy to run wiring .im sure it’ll take several panels


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GrimSurfer

GrimSurfer

Senior Audioholic
I know it’s a tough room to tune but it makes it so easy to run wiring .im sure it’ll take several panels


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Yeah, I hear you. I have a drop ceiling on one level of my home, which saved me all kinds of trouble when doing a complete kitchen tear down and renovation on the floor above. It also helped me wire my mid century home for Ethernet, which allows me to enjoy gigabit speeds everywhere there's a drop or a wired wifi extender.

Closing in my ceiling would give a more finished look to the space. Ceiling tiles give me 50% of a finished look, 90% convenience of an open ceiling, and a reasonable acoustic response in my entertainment area.

Your space looks just a bit wider than mine though, so you have a better proportioned room. Very jealous!
 
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Brettc

Audioholic
Well thanks it’s been slow but so far I’ve done it all myself, I’m gonna have a false wall to hide all equipment and speakers and a couple columns on the sides should help


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GrimSurfer

GrimSurfer

Senior Audioholic
You have my respect for committing yourself to this project. A lot of folks would cut a cheque, and learn very little in the process.
 
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Brettc

Audioholic
The home network is something I want to set up! Gotta do a little studying


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GrimSurfer

GrimSurfer

Senior Audioholic
It's not hard. I had some techs in my overseas office a few years ago. I needed to be on site while they did the work (which for certain reasons that I can't get into had to be of a very high quality). So I asked them to show me how to prepare, cut, terminate, and test CAT-6.

After a day or two's practice, I started making patch cables while the techs were on break. They'd test them after break and, if they met muster, use them.

When I returned to my home from overseas, I bought a spool of CAT-6 and termination tools. The cable was the most expensive. Running the cable was the most time consuming. Terminating plugs and recepticles was the most satisfying.

Big lessons?

1. Decide where your "server room" will be. The closer to the point of incoming lines, the better.

2. Buy more cable than you think you'll need. I figured I'd need 300-ish feet. I bought 1000 feet. So far, I've used a little over 500 feet. In another 100 feet, I will have broken even with the cost of a 500' roll. I'm pretty sure I'll make it... or my brother-in-law or son-in-law will help me get to 999 feet!

3. Never pull a single wire, when two or more can be pulled. It will save you from having to buy any more managed switches than necessary (there really is no other kind, as the unmanaged ones are very inefficient).

4. Use multiple receptacles/faceplates. A four-gang receptacle is the smallest you should place at a termination point. Trust me, you'll end up using every port as the "Internet of things" matures.

5. Wireless wifi repeaters are a waste of time and money. Ensure your cabling is routed to the edges of your home to allow broad placement of wired wifi repeaters. Use these to get to zones you can't (or don't want to) string a wire to... like outdoors.

6. Mark recepticals simply and clearly. I used a coded system using numbered and colored dots scribed with an indelible marker. The colors were coded to individual rooms. That way, I could keep track of exactly where things were going from the large server patch panel. Some ppl use stickers. Fancy, but they fall off... or kids peel them off, making things as fun as opening label-less can goods.

7. Get and use a good testing tool, such as those sold by Klein USA. They cost more than the competition, but still cheap in the scheme of things. Reliable and durable... trust me, your buddies will be asking to borrow them once they see your setup.

Now my mobile tech team leader would say "don't bother with CAT-6, go fibre. The work is the same, performance better, and potential for RFI is nil". But fibre can be tricky to pull (it hates bends and kinks; and my home has nothing but bends and kinks because it was constructed 40 years before home builders even though about laying conduit) and good termination tools for fibre are expensive.

Hope this helps, man. Good luck with your work.
 
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Sef_Makaro

Sef_Makaro

Audioholic
It's not hard. I had some techs in my overseas office a few years ago. I needed to be on site while they did the work (which for certain reasons that I can't get into had to be of a very high quality). So I asked them to show me how to prepare, cut, terminate, and test CAT-6.

After I day or two's practice, I started making up patch cables while they were on break. They'd test them after break and, if they met muster, use them.

When I returned to my home from overseas, I bought a spool of CAT-6 and termination tools. The cable was the most expensive. Running the cable was the most time consuming. Terminating plugs and recepticles was the most satisfying.

Big lessons?

1. Decide where your "server room" will be. The closer to the point of incoming lines, the better.

2. Buy more cable than you think you'll need. I figured I'd need 300-ish feet. I bought 1000 feet. So far, I've used a little over 500 feet. In another 100 feet, I will have broken even with the cost of a 500' roll. I'm pretty sure I'll make it... or my brother-in-law or son-in-law will help me get to 999 feet!

3. Never pull a single wire, when two or more can be pulled. It will save you from having to buy any more managed switches than necessary (there really is no other kind, as the unmanaged ones are very inefficient).

4. Use multiple receptacles/faceplates. A four-gang receptacle is the smallest you should place at a termination point. Trust me, you'll end up using every port as the "Internet of things" matures.

5. Wireless wifi repeaters are a waste of time and money. Ensure your cabling is routed to the edges of your home to allow broad placement of wired wifi repeaters. Use these to get to zones you can't (or don't want to) string a wire to... like outdoors.

6. Mark recepticals simply and clearly. I used a coded system using numbered and colored dots scribed with an indelible marker. The colors were coded to individual rooms. That way, I could keep track of exactly where things were going from the large server patch panel. Some ppl use stickers. Fancy, but they fall off... or kids peel them off, making things as fun as opening label-less can goods.

7. Get and use a good testing tool, such as those sold by Klein USA. They cost more than the competition, but still cheap in the scheme of things. Reliable and durable... trust me, your buddies will be asking to borrow them once they see your setup.

Now my mobile tech team leader would say "don't bother with CAT-6, go fibre. The work is the same, performance better, and potential for RFI is nil". But fibre can be tricky to pull (it hates bends and kinks; and my home has nothing but bends and kinks because it was constructed 40 years before home builders even though about laying conduit) and good termination tools for fibre are expensive.

Hope this helps, man. Good luck with your work.
As a cable installer, I couldn’t agree more. If you can run multiple lines, do it. Even if you don’t need it now. That goes for not just Ethernet but coax too. Definitely run at least 2 coax lines from the outside to the panel inside, just in case you want to use two different service providers at the same time.(ie-cable internet, satellite tv).

I also second the recommendation for good testing tools. My most used tools besides those used for cable prep are my SLM, TDR and a numbered coax/Ethernet tester.
 
B

Brettc

Audioholic
That’s some food info there !! Isn’t there a certain type of wire you are supposed to use like solid core or braided ? Two types am I correct ? One will break easily but hold up better ? And thanks again


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Sef_Makaro

Sef_Makaro

Audioholic
Solid for inside walls, ceilings. Braided for patch cables.
Exactly. Solid are easier to terminate but tend not to stand up to being moved around like braided. For patch cables I usually get premades.
 
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