G.allenn

G.allenn

Enthusiast
Just purchased a Klipsch Sub-12 second hand. It powers on and works. However I need to push the gain knob in for it to work. The gain knob in not loose, just simply need to push on it for the sub to receive signal. Just wondering if it’s loose wires? I don’t want to begin ripping it open until I hear some opinions. Thank you.


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lovinthehd

lovinthehd

Audioholic Jedi
Is it just the knob sliding on the post or do you think the whole assembly behind it is moving? Is it like a slotted post or held on with a set screw? Can you simply remove the knob to see if it's cracked or something? Personally I'd take the amp off so I could see both sides if it seems like more than the knob.
 
G.allenn

G.allenn

Enthusiast
The knob is not damaged, turns normally. It’s %100 behind the knob.


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lovinthehd

lovinthehd

Audioholic Jedi
You comfortable with disassembling the sub? Sometimes taking the driver out first can be easier to deal with the wiring on the driver depending how much slack they left. Use the right tools...

Might need some Allenn drivers :) (sorry couldn't resist)
 
G.allenn

G.allenn

Enthusiast
I’ve never done it. However I’m not sure what I would be looking for besides cracked things or disconnected wires. I can’t find much online on what the inside looks like. I’ll possibly try it tomorrow. Any tools you would recommend or steps you’d recommend?


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lovinthehd

lovinthehd

Audioholic Jedi
I’ve never done it. However I’m not sure what I would be looking for besides cracked things or disconnected wires. I can’t find much online on what the inside looks like. I’ll possibly try it tomorrow. Any tools you would recommend or steps you’d recommend?


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Just use correct tools for any screws/fasteners for the driver/plate amp. If the whole assembly pushes in you might see a way to fix it in place, I'd think you could see what's failed to continue to keep it in place at least. If you disconnect wires just be sure you mark them/write it down :)
 
G.allenn

G.allenn

Enthusiast
I will try this, thank you.


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Bucknekked

Bucknekked

Audioholic Samurai
I will try this, thank you.


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I have a Klipsch 10'' sub that pretty much stopped working one day. one day it was playing, the next day it would just "mumble". I thought I would do that same thing, look inside and try and find burnt, broken, or obvious signs of trauma. I took the amplifier plate off the back as my point of entry. it comes off easy enough. But, unless there's obvious signs of trauma, I don't know that you will learn much. As lovinthehd said, looking at the driver itself may tell you more.

In my case I got a price from a local repair shop and then a price from Klipsch to replace the amp. It was not a price performer to repair it since the Klipsch sub really isn't a very good sub to begin with. So, I didn't repair it but saved up some shekels and bought a really great sub. But, looking inside is definitely worth the effort. I found it interesting and informative.
 
lovinthehd

lovinthehd

Audioholic Jedi
I have a Klipsch 10'' sub that pretty much stopped working one day. one day it was playing, the next day it would just "mumble". I thought I would do that same thing, look inside and try and find burnt, broken, or obvious signs of trauma. I took the amplifier plate off the back as my point of entry. it comes off easy enough. But, unless there's obvious signs of trauma, I don't know that you will learn much. As lovinthehd said, looking at the driver itself may tell you more.

In my case I got a price from a local repair shop and then a price from Klipsch to replace the amp. It was not a price performer to repair it since the Klipsch sub really isn't a very good sub to begin with. So, I didn't repair it but saved up some shekels and bought a really great sub. But, looking inside is definitely worth the effort. I found it interesting and informative.
Well I was just saying sometimes easier to start by taking the driver out, but don't think looking at the driver will help him with his gain knob thing. True, he may not be able to access the issue with the gain knob depending on how the plate amp is constructed, tho there's one way to find out :)
 
G.allenn

G.allenn

Enthusiast
I unscrewed the electrical panel but it won’t budge. Then I pulled the driver out to push on a sturdy back side of the panel but still nothing...


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G.allenn

G.allenn

Enthusiast
Never mind, got the plate off.


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G.allenn

G.allenn

Enthusiast
The gain dial is bottom one. Nothing appears to be out of line.


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lovinthehd

lovinthehd

Audioholic Jedi
So when you push on the knob now that you can see that side, nothing is visible or ?
 
TLS Guy

TLS Guy

Seriously, I have no life.
OK, so you are going to have to take the board out.

I think there are two likely possibilities.

1). That there is a either a dry solder joint or break in the etched circuit board near the solder joint of the potentiometer control.

2). The potentiometer has failed and needs replacement.

You can test 1 with a multimeter on the 0 to 100 ohm range.

In turn put a probe on each pin of the pot and see if there is continuity to the next point on the PCB board. If one is defective then resolder the pin and or any break in the PCB.

To test the control (possibility 2) then put the probes on the center pin and the upper one. Turn the gain full, there should be zero ohms on the meter. Now turn it anticlockwise, in other words decrease gain. You should see the resistance increase as you turn the knob. You will have to set the meter to 10K ohm or 100 K ohm range for this test.

If it fails this test then the control needs replacing.

Now you don't really need the control if you have a receiver as you can control the volume from the receiver. So you could just jump the center pin to the upper pin, by soldering on a short piece of copper wire to the center and upper pin of the pot. This will leave the sub on max gain.
 
G.allenn

G.allenn

Enthusiast
The “pot”. I finally figured out what a pot is, and how it works. My guess is that a soldier point on the track broke. I have a solder iron but it’s big and bulky and won’t fit. I found a guy who can do it for $50. Is that worth it?


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TLS Guy

TLS Guy

Seriously, I have no life.
The “pot”. I finally figured out what a pot is, and how it works. My guess is that a soldier point on the track broke. I have a solder iron but it’s big and bulky and won’t fit. I found a guy who can do it for $50. Is that worth it?


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If you are going to buy second hand gear, then you need to have a decent soldering iron and know how to solder.

Please describe to me the results of the fault finding I outlined.
 
G.allenn

G.allenn

Enthusiast
I’m sorry, the fault finding?


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G.allenn

G.allenn

Enthusiast
Ah, I’m just going to replace the whole pot. I got the sub for cheap and I can get even more money back since it’s not functioning correctly.


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