Bi-Amping Yamaha A-S801

[PENG]

Thanks all. It seems like the conclusion here is the AS801 is not capable of biamping- even passively- since it only has 2 channels/2 amps.

Whereas an AVR maybe capable (despite people’s opinions of the benefit), because you are reassigning additional channels/amps to the front speakers which can boost the power (theoretically). The AS801 doesn’t have additional channels/amps- so you can’t assign what you don’t have...

Rather, Yamaha is claiming the A+B speaker selector permits biwiring. Which most believe is of no benefit.

Do I have this right?

You have that right. Theoretical benefits do not always result in audible benefits, especially when the theoretical difference (not necessarily benefits as such) is minute/negligible, such that offered by bi-wiring and even passive bi-amping.

 

[AcuDefTechGuy]

Thanks all. It seems like the conclusion here is the AS801 is not capable of biamping- even passively- since it only has 2 channels/2 amps.

Whereas an AVR maybe capable (despite people’s opinions of the benefit), because you are reassigning additional channels/amps to the front speakers which can boost the power (theoretically). The AS801 doesn’t have additional channels/amps- so you can’t assign what you don’t have...

Rather, Yamaha is claiming the A+B speaker selector permits biwiring. Which most believe is of no benefit.

Do I have this right?

I think the take-home message is that PASSIVE bi-amp (with Yamaha S801 or AVR or whatever amp) is a waste of time.

But you can still do it if it makes you happy.

 

[AcuDefTechGuy]

monitor audio bronze 6....could probably always benefit from the extra power.

Not really. Too much power could also BLOW your speakers, especially the Tweeters.

Even with ACTIVE bi-amp using separate dedicated amps, I think the only drivers that benefit are the big woofers, which require significantly more power than the midrange and especially tweeters.

 

[ryanosaur]

***only for my education and understanding, please!
Perhaps somebody can clarify for me... I know I have seen it said what the approximate power ratio is on a 2.5 or 3-way system... something like 10-14% of the energy goes to the HF, and the rest to the LF?
But that unless you are Bi-Amping in an active scenario, you aren't really able to take advantage of that? (In that you need the active network to balance two different levels of amplification? IIRC, I seem to remember cat's talking about using a beefy SS Amp for LF, and a nice low powered tube Amp for the HF.)

 

[Swerd]

You can say that about any speaker wiring, Richard. At least three times in my memory I have helped someone who was disappointed in the lack of bass in their audio or HT systems, only to find that they had wired their L-R speakers out of phase. BTW, all three times that I remember it was people using cheap, clear-jacketed speaker wire with no terminations, and they couldn't or didn't see the printed line on the insulation marking one of the conductors. Even connecting speakers in a conventional manner can be error-prone unless precautions are taken.

At least wiring their speakers out-of-phase with each other caused no damage to speakers or amp .

I have seen the direct results of what happened when some well-meaning but misinformed guy wired his new speakers with "lamp cord", exactly as he believed the salesman had directed. This included laboriously attaching an AC power plug to opposite end of the lamp cord. The one speaker he plugged in, apparently made a loud but brief 60 Hz hum before it died and was partially cremated. I swear I'm not making this up – I really saw this.

 

[Swerd]

***only for my education and understanding, please!
Perhaps somebody can clarify for me... I know I have seen it said what the approximate power ratio is on a 2.5 or 3-way system... something like 10-14% of the energy goes to the HF, and the rest to the LF?

That sounds about right. All tweeters I've known are more sensitive than woofers or mid woofers. They need less power to be as loud as those lower frequency drivers. In fact, most tweeters require extra resistance in the crossover network to "pad down" their sensitivity to match the lower output of the larger drivers.

It's also true that most music has much less content other than harmonic overtones in the tweeter's frequency range. If that were played back with power equivalent to what gets drawn by the woofers, the speakers would sound unacceptably bright.

 

[ryanosaur]

That sounds about right.

Thanks, Swerd!!!