Finally upgrading to 4K. Yamaha at a massive discount or Anthem at full price?

[PENG]

@Happygodavid I just noticed that Crutchfield now has the Denon AVR -X4400H on sale for only $899! What an incredible deal. The Denon AVR-X3400H is still $599 as well. Here are some links for you:

https://www.crutchfield.com/p_033AVX4400/Denon-AVR-X4400H-IN-Command.html


https://www.crutchfield.com/p_033AVX3400/Denon-AVR-X3400H-IN-Command.html


The 4400 looks to be a bit beefier weighing 6.3 -lbs. more and has a phono input. The remote control is a multi-brand learning remote as well. Otherwise, there are not a lot of differences that I can see other than the 4400 is a 9-CH"s AVR vs. 7-CH's with respect to the 3400. Both have the pre-outs that you are looking for as well. There is no doubt that the 4400 is the bigger bargain.


Cheers,

Phil

Weight is one part of the specs that Denon/Marantz seem a touch more than honest, I weighed it on two scales (one display 0.1 lbs), multiple times so I am sure it weights over 30 lbs, between 30.2 to 30.8 lbs, probably around 30.5. Then I weighed the AV8801 the same weight, it was almost right on spec as well. That's completely bared, without the wifi antenna.

 

[speakerman39]

"miniDSP w/REW"? Sorry, but I'm a noob; what's that?
As for the Denon... I could get that at a discount as well. Basically, anything that the Walmart of Home Theater sells, I can get with my buddy's employee discount. In the last couple of days, in fact, I've even pondered going with something from Rotel (I'm a bit overwhelmed at the options).

A miniDSP is a small device that can help you obtain a more flat frequency response at the MLP (sweet spot) in your setup. The idea is to add or cut specific frequencies that will hopefully remain flat by the time the sound hits your ears at the MLP. Every room is different which means there are different targets points(frequencies) to equalize. REW is a a free software package that will measure your specific frequency response in your room. Here is a good place to start learning more about a miniDSP and what it can do:

https://www.minidsp.com/applications/dsp-basics/system-equalization


Many people prefer the miniDSP 2X4 HD b/c it has more voltage at 2v rms vs .9 volt rms in the original miniDSP. You will also need a UMik 1 in order to get more accurate results. I recommend the CSL UMiK 1 myself. Here is a link:

miniDSP 2 X 4

https://www.minidsp.com/products/minidsp-in-a-box/minidsp-2x4-hd


CSL UMiK 1:

http://cross-spectrum.com/measurement/calibrated_umik.html

REW:

https://www.roomeqwizard.com/


Here is some very useful info on this entire process:

https://www.hometheatershack.com/forums/rew-forum/


Cheers,

Phil

PS: Forgot to mention that many people prefer the CSL UMiK 1 b/c is can measure refquency response below 20 Hz that is essential by today's standards. Especially, for those with a HT setup.

 

[PENG]

Mind helping me with what I'd need to do this?

The linked page below will show you:
https://www.minidsp.com/products/dirac-series/ddrc-88bm

That would only work if you use the AVR as prepro. I have been using prepro and now AVR as prepro for too long so I forgot.., sorry.

 

[speakerman39]

@Happygodavid, the most problematic areas of concern are those below 200 Hz in most rooms. Sometimes the bass can be too thick resulting in a muddy mess. The miniDSP can help to flatten the bass response below 200 Hz resulting in a more clean and tighter sound. In small rooms, room gain can lead to just that via standing waves. Without proper equalization the bass is going to be very problematic at the MLP. Proper placement is also a way to minimize room gain issues as well. But, the miniDSP is more effective at equalizing. Moreover, the miniDSP can be used in so many different ways. Some use it as a DAC or even as a cross-over, and etc.


Cheers,

Phil

 

[Dmantis10]

Hey all! Long time lurker, first time poster.

I just ordered an LG C8, and my Integra DTR-40.1 needs to be upgraded as well. I need some help thinking through the long term logic of which route to go.

I’ve got a friend who can get me a discount on Yamaha, so I’m looking at getting the new RX-3080 for about $1300USD (lists for $2000). The more I read on here, tho, the more I’m considering just going for what I reaaaally want, which is the Anthem MRX 720 ($2500). Just trying to figure out if I can justify spending that much more for the Anthem, as they both will cover the bases for my current needs. I only have 5.1 now. I can add 2 more channels for 7.1 pretty easily but won’t be able to do full Atmos, etc. for a few years, when I’m not a renter. For now I just need something that does 5.1, does pass-through for HDR10, HLG, etc., and sounds good. Eventually, I’ll add external amps (hence my choice in models with preamp outputs).

Anyone have any input to offer? I’m torn and need input from folks who know more about this stuff than me. Thanks in advance!

Edit: I should clarify; I can afford both. But hey, it’s over $1200. Just wondering if it’s worth the difference of the “higher end” Anthem. I’m not trying to pinch pennies. I’d rather get the better product in the end. But you guys see the conundrum, right??[/QUOTEi

Hey all! Long time lurker, first time poster.

I just ordered an LG C8, and my Integra DTR-40.1 needs to be upgraded as well. I need some help thinking through the long term logic of which route to go.

I’ve got a friend who can get me a discount on Yamaha, so I’m looking at getting the new RX-3080 for about $1300USD (lists for $2000). The more I read on here, tho, the more I’m considering just going for what I reaaaally want, which is the Anthem MRX 720 ($2500). Just trying to figure out if I can justify spending that much more for the Anthem, as they both will cover the bases for my current needs. I only have 5.1 now. I can add 2 more channels for 7.1 pretty easily but won’t be able to do full Atmos, etc. for a few years, when I’m not a renter. For now I just need something that does 5.1, does pass-through for HDR10, HLG, etc., and sounds good. Eventually, I’ll add external amps (hence my choice in models with preamp outputs).

Anyone have any input to offer? I’m torn and need input from folks who know more about this stuff than me. Thanks in advance!

Edit: I should clarify; I can afford both. But hey, it’s over $1200. Just wondering if it’s worth the difference of the “higher end” Anthem. I’m not trying to pinch pennies. I’d rather get the better product in the end. But you guys see the conundrum, right??

It think it's a fair question and a difficult one to answer but not really if I know some information.
What kind of speakers do you have? Looks like you want to go 7.1 which if you can I suggest going 5.1.2 for Atmos. To me I think it's a much better format then 7.1 is vs each other.7.1 is awesome.
The Integra 40.1 is a nice model from years ago but not the most powerful receiver on the black. I would go 50. or better in the Integra world as thats the point where the amps get better. Nothing wrong with the 40. models if you have easy to drive speakers in a smaller room but even then the 50. models just sound better to me.
Discounts can sway someone to buy something over something else. I know I did exactly that with my current purchase of my Sony STRZ5000es. Not that it's not a great receiver but I would now have liked to go with the new Integra DRX-R1.1 which I think now that I have installed a few of them sound better and have a much stronger amp section then the Sony does. On paper they appear to be very close but I have driven similar speakers with both models and the Integra just has a new warmth and clarity I feel the older models lacked and I feel strongly it outperforms the Sony in just about every conceivable way. And that is coming from a guy who basically didn't care for Integra as I have been Installing them since 2000. Something about the new Auto Calibration and new Amp design is just leaps better then the previous models. I you can get a Integra DRX-R 1.1 I suggest going for it. Check it out man , it's incredible. I may get one myself and get rid of the Sony.
But again you may not need such a high end receiver due to your speakers.
The Anthem is nice but I was never really impressed with them. I installed them day 1 and found they are very nice but for the money I always like the Pioneer Elite SC models way more. I thought they sounded better, had more features, EQ both was on par and even though the Mic was way better with the Anthem and seemed to be a better Auto EQ over the MCACC offered it didn't give the same balance clear warm and dynamic results the Pioneer Elite SC models did. Before and even after Calibration I always felt the Elite SC models just performed better for the money.
Yamaha was incredible way back in the day like from the late 80's into the early 2000's. Then they started to get weird and my interest in them deminished. I owned a few I had a RXV992 then RXV995 followed by a RXV1 then lost intrest in the newer models. I went to Denon after Yamaha and Denon shares my opinion on Yamaha, just lost a step or 3 after 2006. I floated on B&K and Pioneer Elite then Rotel and back to Pioneer Elite and now Sony.
In your case you may not have the vast experience with receivers as I do or have owned as many but my experiences can only be taken with a grain of salt as my speakers room and musical needs maybe very different then yours.
I like helping people choose a new AVR based off of needs not money. I know you said your budget is basically open but $1200 is a lot to save. I just don't want to see anyone buy on price and not get what they need.

 

[Happygodavid]

@speakerman39 and @PENG, thanks for your help on the DSP thing. It seems I have a lot more to learn... I've just been using the Audyssey mic on my Integra DTR 40.1 for the past several years, and I'm assuming this is the "next level" of calibration. Are you guys suggesting I go with this type of thing vs Audyssey (or whatever Yamaha uses or ARC from Anthem) no matter which receiver or pre-pro setup I go with? And is this different from Dirac (I'm seeing a lot about that on these forums over the past few days and am kinda lost with all the options.)? I do like to push buttons and such, but I don't want to get into something that's too technical for my level of knowledge, which is pretty basic.

Looks like you want to go 7.1 which if you can I suggest going 5.1.2 for Atmos.

Right now, I just have a 5.1 setup. I could easily add speakers for a 7.1 setup, as I've got a long table about 6 feet behind my couch. I'm renting, so I can't do any ceiling mounting for now. Hence, sticking with 5.1 (or maybe 7.1) for now with the option of adding more speakers later. My current speakers are OLD. Infinity RS-625's for the mains, RS-325's for the rears, and an RS Video for the center. RS 10 for the sub. It's modest, but it gets the job done for now, as I can't shake the walls with apartment living.

I you can get a Integra DRX-R 1.1 I suggest going for it.

Not sure if I can get one at a discount, but I can check...

And while we're on the topic of my current speakers (I'll upgrade them in a couple years), I'm wondering what specs I should be looking for with regards to power. Reading on these forums the past few days, I've seen several articles regarding ohms/watts, etc., but I guess I'm just not getting it. If anyone would be able to help me out in that arena, I'd be grateful. Here are my speaker specs:

RS-625s (1 tweeter, 1x8" woofer, 2x8" bass radiators):
Nominal impedance: 6 ohm
Power rating: 25-200 watts RMS into 6 ohms
Sensitivity: 92 dB @ 2.8V, 1 meter
Crossover Frequencie: 2800Hz
Frequency Response: 40Hz-25kHz +/-3dB

RS-325s (1 tweeter, 1 6.5" woofer)
RS-325
SPECIFICATIONS
Nominal Impedance: 6 ohm
Power Rating: 20-150 watts RMS into 6 Ohms
Sensitivity: 92 dB @2.8V, 1 meter
Crossover Frequencie: 3300Hz
Frequency Response: 65Hz-25kHz +/-3dB

 

[WineOfTheVeins]

Anthem at a discount, win win
Really depends how much you want to spend. Yamaha makes a great unit, but I am pretty partial to the craftsmanship and quality from top to bottom of Anthem products.

 

[PENG]

@speakerman39 and @PENG, thanks for your help on the DSP thing. It seems I have a lot more to learn... I've just been using the Audyssey mic on my Integra DTR 40.1 for the past several years, and I'm assuming this is the "next level" of calibration. Are you guys suggesting I go with this type of thing vs Audyssey (or whatever Yamaha uses or ARC from Anthem) no matter which receiver or pre-pro setup I go with? And is this different from Dirac (I'm seeing a lot about that on these forums over the past few days and am kinda lost with all the options.)? I do like to push buttons and such, but I don't want to get into something that's too technical for my level of knowledge, which is pretty basic.

Right now, I just have a 5.1 setup. I could easily add speakers for a 7.1 setup, as I've got a long table about 6 feet behind my couch. I'm renting, so I can't do any ceiling mounting for now. Hence, sticking with 5.1 (or maybe 7.1) for now with the option of adding more speakers later. My current speakers are OLD. Infinity RS-625's for the mains, RS-325's for the rears, and an RS Video for the center. RS 10 for the sub. It's modest, but it gets the job done for now, as I can't shake the walls with apartment living.

Not sure if I can get one at a discount, but I can check...

And while we're on the topic of my current speakers (I'll upgrade them in a couple years), I'm wondering what specs I should be looking for with regards to power. Reading on these forums the past few days, I've seen several articles regarding ohms/watts, etc., but I guess I'm just not getting it. If anyone would be able to help me out in that arena, I'd be grateful. Here are my speaker specs:

RS-625s (1 tweeter, 1x8" woofer, 2x8" bass radiators):
Nominal impedance: 6 ohm
Power rating: 25-200 watts RMS into 6 ohms
Sensitivity: 92 dB @ 2.8V, 1 meter
Crossover Frequencie: 2800Hz
Frequency Response: 40Hz-25kHz +/-3dB

RS-325s (1 tweeter, 1 6.5" woofer)
RS-325
SPECIFICATIONS
Nominal Impedance: 6 ohm
Power Rating: 20-150 watts RMS into 6 Ohms
Sensitivity: 92 dB @2.8V, 1 meter
Crossover Frequencie: 3300Hz
Frequency Response: 65Hz-25kHz +/-3dB

Those speakers are not hard to drive and in a medium size room sitting 9 to 12 ft, a upper mid range AVR should be fine.

For Room EQ, Dirac Live and Anthem ARC users seem happy, while Audyssey users seem divided. One reason could be that Audyssey has several versions, XT32 being the best but probably still not as good as Dirac Live. I intend to try Dirac Live's free trial soon but until then I can't say it is better than XT32, though chance is good that it is better.

Amazon now has the AVR-X4400H for $899, that's hard to beat. I bought one to replace my $3000 Marantz AV8801 and am very satisfied so far.

 

[TechHDS]

Sales are flying all over the place! I just read even Polk is throwing their LSiM’s on sale! Now RBH has a sale going on, Amazon has the A1070 new going for 799.00, and now Denons X4400H for 899.00! Man dam da bad luck for me! I got 40 days to go before my funds hit my Bank!

 

[speakerman39]

@Happygodavid I think that opting for the Yammie and/or Denon while employing a miniDSP/REW can yield results just as good as, if not better, than Anthem's ARC. The idea here is to save some money. Perhaps use those funds for improvements speaker wise which will have a more direct effect on improving your SQ. As far as DIRAC goes, I have no experience with it but it does seem to be well received.

You claim that you are planning to add outboard amplification and that is why BSA recommended the Denon AVR-4400H to be used as a pre/pro. Now that it is on sale @Crutchfield for $899, it is almost a no-brainer inmho. That is why I linked it for you in my post. Hence, the Denon 4400 will have Audyssey XT32 W/Sub EQ HT. That coupled with REW/miniDSP will yield excellent results if done correctly. Especially, if you plan to go duals on your subs.

Proper placement and room treatments can also go along ways to improving things. But, make no mistake in that I am NOT discounting ARC/DIRAC as both are also very well received. I just prefer Audyssey myself.


Cheers,

Phil

 

[Happygodavid]

Anthem at a discount, win win

I wish! My buddy can't get them at a discount, or I would've already done it. Tho, I have learned a lot from this thread, so I'm glad I did!

Those speakers are not hard to drive and in a medium size room sitting 9 to 12 ft, a upper mid range AVR should be fine.

Thanks, PENG!

You claim that you are planning to add outboard amplification and that is why BSA recommended the Denon AVR-4400H to be used as a pre/pro. Now that it is on sale @Crutchfield for $899, it is almost a no-brainer inmho.

Thanks for the heads up... Right when I started leaning toward the Yamaha... I did actually just get off a chat with Yamaha, and it seemed like the differences between the 3080 and the 3070 were enough to warrant getting the 3080 (mainly for ability to run higher quality sound/video through it, plus xlr outs for the mains). But now I'm wondering about this Denon. I'll check with my buddy and see what his price would be.

 

[Dmantis10]

In general Denon has a more warmer overall sound quality. The Yamaha will be more like your Integra which is on the bright side. The Yamaha is even brighter in general. You might like the Yamaha more then the Anthem. Anthem is warm and rather neutral sounding. You'll be able to get higher end speakers in the future with the Anthem but by that time Technology will change 3 times and you'll be shopping again.

I think the Yamaha is the move here.

 

[speakerman39]

I wish! My buddy can't get them at a discount, or I would've already done it. Tho, I have learned a lot from this thread, so I'm glad I did!

Thanks, PENG!

Thanks for the heads up... Right when I started leaning toward the Yamaha... I did actually just get off a chat with Yamaha, and it seemed like the differences between the 3080 and the 3070 were enough to warrant getting the 3080 (mainly for ability to run higher quality sound/video through it, plus xlr outs for the mains). But now I'm wondering about this Denon. I'll check with my buddy and see what his price would be.

The Denon AVR-4400H is a very capable AVR. I also like Audyssey better than YPAO. Incorporating the miniDSP/REW is a BIG step in the right direction inmho. Peaks in the Frequency response can be equalized whereas dips can be minimized via proper placement. Standing waves below 200 Hz is what messes things up in most rooms. Of course, duals help to minimize standing waves.


Cheers,

Phil

 

[Happygodavid]

I also like Audyssey better than YPAO. Incorporating the miniDSP/REW is a BIG step in the right direction inmho.

I've spent the last couple hours reading up on this whole miniDSP/REW/Dirac thing... I'm still a bit confused. All of that is just room correction software, right? Similar to Audyssey but more advanced? If that's the case, and I spent money on one of those options, having Audyssey or YPAO or ARC, etc. wouldn't matter, right? And is that software just for a pre/pro setup, or is it for AVRs, as well? (I can't even picture in my head how it hooks up... maybe some YouTube time is on my horizon...) Sorry for the dumb questions, but I appreciate your help, Phil!

Peaks in the Frequency response can be equalized whereas dips can be minimized via proper placement. Standing waves below 200 Hz is what messes things up in most rooms. Of course, duals help to minimize standing waves.

I have no idea what you just said. Ok, I kinda do, but I can see I have quite a lot to learn. Funny, I bought my first HT in high school (I'm 41 now) and have evolved it over the years, but I've always just plugged things in and pressed the power button. Sure, I've dug around in various receivers' settings, but I've always been intimidated to get into anything more; I think it may be time, now that I've found you guys to help me out. Really appreciate it.

Amazon now has the AVR-X4400H for $899, that's hard to beat. I bought one to replace my $3000 Marantz AV8801 and am very satisfied so far.

I'm curious: why did you replace what appears to be a pretty high end Marantz pre/pro with the 4400 AVR?

 

[PENG]

I've spent the last couple hours reading up on this whole miniDSP/REW/Dirac thing... I'm still a bit confused. All of that is just room correction software, right? Similar to Audyssey but more advanced? If that's the case, and I spent money on one of those options, having Audyssey or YPAO or ARC, etc. wouldn't matter, right? And is that software just for a pre/pro setup, or is it for AVRs, as well? (I can't even picture in my head how it hooks up... maybe some YouTube time is on my horizon...) Sorry for the dumb questions, but I appreciate your help, Phil!

I have no idea what you just said. Ok, I kinda do, but I can see I have quite a lot to learn. Funny, I bought my first HT in high school (I'm 41 now) and have evolved it over the years, but I've always just plugged things in and pressed the power button. Sure, I've dug around in various receivers' settings, but I've always been intimidated to get into anything more; I think it may be time, now that I've found you guys to help me out. Really appreciate it.

I'm curious: why did you replace what appears to be a pretty high end Marantz pre/pro with the 4400 AVR?

Mainly because I wanted to try Atmos, the Denon can do 7.1.4 Atmos. Also, the AV8801 does not have HDCP2.2 so for the latest 4k stuff it is easier to do it with the much newer Denon. There is no sound quality difference between the two, but the Denon's Audyssey does seem to do a little better without even using the Editor App, yet..

The price you are getting for the RX-A3080 is excellent, but now that the X4400H is on clearance, it becomes very competitive. Take you time to figure out what you need right now and potential future expansion, and then you can make an informed decision.

 

[speakerman39]

I've spent the last couple hours reading up on this whole miniDSP/REW/Dirac thing... I'm still a bit confused. All of that is just room correction software, right? Similar to Audyssey but more advanced? If that's the case, and I spent money on one of those options, having Audyssey or YPAO or ARC, etc. wouldn't matter, right? And is that software just for a pre/pro setup, or is it for AVRs, as well? (I can't even picture in my head how it hooks up... maybe some YouTube time is on my horizon...) Sorry for the dumb questions, but I appreciate your help, Phil!

I have no idea what you just said. Ok, I kinda do, but I can see I have quite a lot to learn. Funny, I bought my first HT in high school (I'm 41 now) and have evolved it over the years, but I've always just plugged things in and pressed the power button. Sure, I've dug around in various receivers' settings, but I've always been intimidated to get into anything more; I think it may be time, now that I've found you guys to help me out. Really appreciate it.

I'm curious: why did you replace what appears to be a pretty high end Marantz pre/pro with the 4400 AVR?

David, there is nothing wrong w/asking questions. How else are you going to learn? I had to do the same exact thing. Trust me I am no expert for that matter. Still learning myself. Guys like Shady, Peng, and Fuzz know much more about this than I do.

The miniDSP is a device not software that when used in conjunction w/REW(measuring software) can identify issues below 200Hz that need to be equalized at your sweet spot or MLP. By equalizing, I am referring to flattening the frequency response in your room. Every room is different in that what targets in your room may not work in others and vice versa. The goal is to keep everything flat at the MLP, as well as, the sound arriving at the same time.

Audyssey, YPAO, DIRAC, ARC, and MCACC are proprietary software packages that merely equalizes your setup. The miniDSP can be of great help in further flattening the frequency response in your room. REW is the measuring software. Here is an article that may be of some help:

http://www.centerpointaudio.com/HowToUnderstandFlatFrequencyResponseGraph.aspx


Cheers,

Phil

 

[TechHDS]

I've spent the last couple hours reading up on this whole miniDSP/REW/Dirac thing... I'm still a bit confused. All of that is just room correction software, right? Similar to Audyssey but more advanced? If that's the case, and I spent money on one of those options, having Audyssey or YPAO or ARC, etc. wouldn't matter, right? And is that software just for a pre/pro setup, or is it for AVRs, as well? (I can't even picture in my head how it hooks up... maybe some YouTube time is on my horizon...) Sorry for the dumb questions, but I appreciate your help, Phil!

I have no idea what you just said. Ok, I kinda do, but I can see I have quite a lot to learn. Funny, I bought my first HT in high school (I'm 41 now) and have evolved it over the years, but I've always just plugged things in and pressed the power button. Sure, I've dug around in various receivers' settings, but I've always been intimidated to get into anything more; I think it may be time, now that I've found you guys to help me out. Really appreciate it.

I'm curious: why did you replace what appears to be a pretty high end Marantz pre/pro with the 4400 AVR?

You come to the right forum! If these guys can’t help than no one can. Some of these guys have engineer degrees, some have actually worked with and know some of the best minds in audio/video.

 

[Happygodavid]

Guys, I gotta say, thanks a ton for all the responses. Because of your guys' help, I've been learning a ton. My gosh, things have come a long way (and gotten waaaay more complicated) since I bought my first HT back in high school in... '94, IIRC. I think what I'm going to do now is just run optical out of my tv into my receiver until I learn a bit more and decide on a more long term plan. I've only got a 5.1 setup, and my tv's (LG C8) optical out sends 5.1. I got the tv yesterday, ran it that way, and it was glorious. Now, I've gotta learn more about tv calibration (any links or tools you all might recommend?) and figure out how to tweak a couple of things. I am tempted to hop on the Emotiva refurbished sale and pick up an XPA-5. I'm also leaning more toward waiting on the Marantz SR7013 (comes out next month, and I can get a discount on that, too), but again, I'm an over-thinker/terrible decision maker, so, yeah. Anyhoo, just wanted to thank everyone, and I'll definitely stick around this forum (I've tried a couple others and gotten a few snarky comments; kudos to folks here for remembering the human and being patient.).

 

[Happygodavid]

Many people prefer the miniDSP 2X4 HD b/c it has more voltage at 2v rms vs .9 volt rms in the original miniDSP. You will also need a UMik 1 in order to get more accurate results. I recommend the CSL UMiK 1 myself. Here is a link:

miniDSP 2 X 4

https://www.minidsp.com/products/minidsp-in-a-box/minidsp-2x4-hd

The linked page below will show you:
https://www.minidsp.com/products/dirac-series/ddrc-88bm

After reading a bit, I'm leaning toward investing in Dirac with my current setup and learning how to use that even before I upgrade my AVR to another AVR or Pre/pro/amp setup. (I'm thinking Dirac, rather than REW, as it seems the learning curve is a bit easier; I don't mind paying extra for ease of use.) Would this product (https://www.minidsp.com/products/dirac-series/ddrc-24) be comparable to the one you suggested, but just with Dirac added? And do I really need to go all out on the ddrc-88bm to be able to run Dirac for an entire surround sound system? Can't figure out what the advantages might be for either. Thanks, guys! (Also, see my above post for additional thanks. )

 

[AcuDefTechGuy]

After reading a bit, I'm leaning toward investing in Dirac with my current setup and learning how to use that even before I upgrade my AVR to another AVR or Pre/pro/amp setup. (I'm thinking Dirac, rather than REW, as it seems the learning curve is a bit easier; I don't mind paying extra for ease of use.) Would this product (https://www.minidsp.com/products/dirac-series/ddrc-24) be comparable to the one you suggested, but just with Dirac added? And do I really need to go all out on the ddrc-88bm to be able to run Dirac for an entire surround sound system? Can't figure out what the advantages might be for either. Thanks, guys! (Also, see my above post for additional thanks. )

This is another Separates vs AVR debate, but If money is not an issue (if you're willing to spend $2,500 or more on an AVR), then I would go for the Pre-pro + Amp setup.

The Yamaha CX-A5100 was $3,000. This year, they lowered to $2,500 to get rid of supplies. Yamaha will be shipping the new CX-A5200 in October, probably back to the original $3,000 price.

But now the CX-A5100 is on closeout. So if your dealer friend can get you the RX-A3080 for about $1300, then he should be able to get you the CX-A5100 Pre-Pro for just a little more.