Marantz NR1509/1609 Slimline AV Receivers Aren't Slim on Features

[gene]

If you're tight on space and budget, Marantz Slimline receivers may be your answer. The $549 NR1509 is a 5.1CH AVR and $749 NR1609 is a 7.1CH AVR, both are packed with the latest in HD audio and video.

Now with Alexa compatibility and support for multi-room music via Denon’s Heos and Apple’s Airplay 2 protocols, these latest slimline receivers do it all. If you've got an itch to get into immersive surround sound, the NR1609 is your answer with it's ability to support 5.1.2 speaker formats. Both models support dual subwoofer outputs and the latest Audyssey MultEQ room EQ and setup. Marantz proves there is more than meets the eye with these slimline AV receivers.

Read: Marantz NR1509 & NR1609 Slimline AV Receivers

 

[Jeremy P]

I've been watching these receivers for a little while and they do appeal to me. I like that they have audio pre-out's, especially in such a small form factor. I am constantly struggling with the 50 watt power rating, but many reviews state that it is plenty. I would want one to power a 7.2 setup and eventually add individual power amplifiers using the pre-outs, so the low power rating won't matter long term.

 

[KEW]

I've been watching these receivers for a little while and they do appeal to me. I like that they have audio pre-out's, especially in such a small form factor. I am constantly struggling with the 50 watt power rating, but many reviews state that it is plenty. I would want one to power a 7.2 setup and eventually add individual power amplifiers using the pre-outs, so the low power rating won't matter long term.

Just want to make sure you understand that the pre-outs are only provided for the R & L channels. I think that is a pretty good design as you are off-loading a lot from the power supply. Usually there is not too much demanding content in the surrounds, so that leaves only the center to deliver significant power to. 50 WPC will usually work (especially with a sub handling the bass), but you do need to make sure your remaining speakers are not power hogs!
Also, if you don't need Alexa compatibility, you can get last year's NR1608 for $500 while inventory is still available; but be sure to check exactly what features have changed to determine if you will miss anything!

 

[Jeremy P]

Just want to make sure you understand that the pre-outs are only provided for the R & L channels. I think that is a pretty good design as you are off-loading a lot from the power supply. Usually there is not too much demanding content in the surrounds, so that leaves only the center to deliver significant power to. 50 WPC will usually work (especially with a sub handling the bass), but you do need to make sure your remaining speakers are not power hogs!
Also, if you don't need Alexa compatibility, you can get last year's NR1608 for $500 while inventory is still available; but be sure to check exactly what features have changed to determine if you will miss anything!

Thanks for the response Kurt. Yes I know the pre-outs are for just the front two channels. I figure that's all I'll need for separate amps as when I listen to music I stick to stereo and like you said, offloading the front channels should free up enough for the surrounds when watching movies. I have the NR1608 in my shopping cart, just haven't been able to pull the trigger as I'm not 100% set on the aforementioned plan. Thanks for confirming my hunch/idea about this system.

 

[KEW]

Thanks for the response Kurt. Yes I know the pre-outs are for just the front two channels. I figure that's all I'll need for separate amps as when I listen to music I stick to stereo and like you said, offloading the front channels should free up enough for the surrounds when watching movies. I have the NR1608 in my shopping cart, just haven't been able to pull the trigger as I'm not 100% set on the aforementioned plan. Thanks for confirming my hunch/idea about this system.

Yeah!
If the slim-line appeals to you and you are looking for a great stereo/music system that also happens to provide everything you need for a modest 7 channel HT system, this is a good option.
Note that it has an ECO mode which will lower the AVR temp by about 10 degrees F. There is some question about whether this would compromise the sound quality if you enable it. My thoughts on that are:
1) Probably not much if at all - I think Marantz knows how to evaluate and feel sure the effect is negligible, however, even if it does,
2) it would not effect the pre-outs, so you get a lower operating temperature (heat is the enemy of electronics durability) with no chance of adversely effecting your mains/stereo/music.
3) Personally, for HT/surrounds, I am not worried about the chance of some slight compromise in sound.
So I would recommend running ECO mode to reduce heat. I really doubt it has any audible effect, but if someone on one of the forums starts telling you not to use ECO, understand that your R&L with an ext amp will be free and clear of it. Only the speakers driven using the amp section of the AVR will be affected.

 

[Ponzio]

This is oh so tempting to replace my old Onkyo CS-V720S micro-component system in our kitchen at this price vs. a Yamaha CRX-N560. The only obstacle is Toots-Sweet, since I would be invading her domain. I tried to put a Yamaha RX-A2040 in there previously with disastrous results ... to my mental health.

 

[ohio]

I've had the Marantz NR1403 for several years running a 5.1 bookshelf setup for my apartment. Sound quality is great, and it has more than enough power to take the system up to the max levels I would ever use in my small space (15 x 12 with 9 ft ceilings). If your space is around that volume, you have reasonably efficient speakers, and you share any walls (incl. floor and ceiling) with neighbors, you will not have any issues with power. SQ also excellent at my volumes, but that is more a function of speaker choice/placement/setup IMO. Room is too compromised to consider critical listening and really hear the differences between amps.

 

[Ataraxia]

Hello! Audio newbie here.

Is the pre-amp topology/technology in the Marantz NR series as good as the SR series?

(I know the SR series have HDAM but are the NR pre-amps good too?)

I'm considering the NR1509 paired with an outboard 2-channel amp like the Parasound Halo A23 or NewClassic 2125 v.2.

These would drive my new KEF R3's. in a 2.1 or 2.2 or 3.2 configuration depending on how I like the sound as I progress from 2.0.

Or should I just keep it simple and get an SR7012? I want to really make the R3's sing. They're really sweet speakers.

The thing is, I don't need all the source input/output options of the big SR series.

50/50 music/movies... Which is why I want the AVR for decoding/downmixing HT codecs..

 

[everettT]

Hello! Audio newbie here.

Is the pre-amp topology/technology in the Marantz NR series as good as the SR series?

(I know the SR series have HDAM but are the NR pre-amps good too?)

I'm considering the NR1509 paired with an outboard 2-channel amp like the Parasound Halo A23 or NewClassic 2125 v.2.

These would drive my new KEF R3's. in a 2.1 or 2.2 or 3.2 configuration depending on how I like the sound as I progress from 2.0.

Or should I just keep it simple and get an SR7012? I want to really make the R3's sing. They're really sweet speakers.

The thing is, I don't need all the source input/output options of the big SR series.

50/50 music/movies... Which is why I want the AVR for decoding/downmixing HT codecs..

I'd go seperates if you can afford it. Those kefs dip to almost 3ohms, not that the 7012 couldnt manage. Are you fixed on branding with marantz and parasound? What subs? Are you considering the possiblity of 3.1? How large of a room and how far do you sit from the speakers?

 

[Ataraxia]

I saw that.

The KEF white paper shows R3's dip to 3 ohms at about 45 HZ and around 150 HZ. I'm loving them in 2 channel. Only better with a sub or 2 and am leaning towards either Rythmik or the KEF Kubes.

When I get the sub/subs I'll be filtering out around 80 HZ and below to it/them, as I'm sure you're aware of.

If, after I add the sub or subs I still want more I may add a center. I just wanted to keep it simple with as few high quality components as possible, including as few speakers as possible. (edit) 3.1 is also a possibility. But with 2.1 or 2.2 I can spend the approx $1,100 dollars a R2c would cost me on electronics. Is my thought.

I originally wanted to just do an integrated amp but some helpful people at AVS forum educated me that I'll lose my LFE channel with 2 channel PCM into an integrated being the only choice... Or stereo DAC/Pre-Amp for that matter.

So from what I've gathered the most logical way to properly decode and downmix all the awesome HT audio to the L/R, SW, (possible center) I basically need an AVR for the DAC.

I do want to really make the R3's sing so then add an outboard amp to some high quality pre-outs 2V plus pre-outs.

Or.... Just get a NAD T 758 V3 which is reviewed to be awesome for both music and movies. A one box solution that may get me 90% of the R3's capability. (my generalization)


I'm not committed to any particular brand. I'm open to seperates but I don't want to overspend either.

As far as Marantz/Parasound from what I've researched Marantz/Denon have some good pre-outs and the KEF dealer told me KEF uses Parasound to run their speakers at demos so I figured that would be a good combo.
My thought was I could get the NR Marantz and a 150 Watt Parasound and have a quality approx 1100 dollar solution.

I'm not sure yet thus my inquiry..

I'm open to any suggestions, including brands and specs to shoot for to drive the R3's. I'd like to keep my next round of spending just below 2K. But not completely necessary if I'm sold I've got a durable and quality solution.

The 3 next parts would have been just less than 2K if I went Marantz/Parasound/KEF Kube or Rythmik L12 or F12-300.

I will mostly be in medium size rooms/apts or condos for the near future. Where I sit now is about 12 feet from the speakers.

Cheers!

 

[everettT]

I saw that.

The KEF white paper shows R3's dip to 3 ohms at about 45 HZ and around 150 HZ. I'm loving them in 2 channel. Only better with a sub or 2 and am leaning towards either Rythmik or the KEF Kubes.

When I get the sub/subs I'll be filtering out around 80 HZ and below to it/them, as I'm sure you're aware of.

If, after I add the sub or subs I still want more I may add a center. I just wanted to keep it simple with as few high quality components as possible, including as few speakers as possible. (edit) 3.1 is also a possibility. But with 2.1 or 2.2 I can spend the approx $1,100 dollars a R2c would cost me on electronics. Is my thought.

I originally wanted to just do an integrated amp but some helpful people at AVS forum educated me that I'll lose my LFE channel with 2 channel PCM into an integrated being the only choice... Or stereo DAC/Pre-Amp for that matter.

So from what I've gathered the most logical way to properly decode and downmix all the awesome HT audio to the L/R, SW, (possible center) I basically need an AVR for the DAC.

I do want to really make the R3's sing so then add an outboard amp to some high quality pre-outs 2V plus pre-outs.

Or.... Just get a NAD T 758 V3 which is reviewed to be awesome for both music and movies. A one box solution that may get me 90% of the R3's capability. (my generalization)


I'm not committed to any particular brand. I'm open to seperates but I don't want to overspend either.

As far as Marantz/Parasound from what I've researched Marantz/Denon have some good pre-outs and the KEF dealer told me KEF uses Parasound to run their speakers at demos so I figured that would be a good combo.
My thought was I could get the NR Marantz and a 150 Watt Parasound and have a quality approx 1100 dollar solution.

I'm not sure yet thus my inquiry..

I'm open to any suggestions, including brands and specs to shoot for to drive the R3's. I'd like to keep my next round of spending just below 2K. But not completely necessary if I'm sold I've got a durable and quality solution.

The 3 next parts would have been just less than 2K if I went Marantz/Parasound/KEF Kube or Rythmik L12 or F12-300.

I will mostly be in medium size rooms/apts or condos for the near future. Where I sit now is about 12 feet from the speakers.

Cheers!

The slim line Marantz would serve as a good preamp, as well as most any mid level AVR. One box solution would be ok, but I'd opt for something other than a NAD as they are not really all that especially for the money. If room correction is important to you, the denon x3400 is extremely hard to beat for use as a preamp. I'll be using one with an external amp for a new 2ch setup once my speakers ship. The preout voltage on the D&M products wont be an issue.

Rythmik will give you better value and performance of the KEF subs. Depending on your room size it will help determine sealed or ported subs. Also consider HSU and SVS.

 

[Ataraxia]

The slim line Marantz would serve as a good preamp, as well as most any mid level AVR. One box solution would be ok, but I'd opt for something other than a NAD as they are not really all that especially for the money. If room correction is important to you, the denon x3400 is extremely hard to beat for use as a preamp. I'll be using one with an external amp for a new 2ch setup once my speakers ship. The preout voltage on the D&M products wont be an issue.

Rythmik will give you better value and performance of the KEF subs. Depending on your room size it will help determine sealed or ported subs. Also consider HSU and SVS.

I would like opinions on what external amps to consider. Do you not like Parasound?

And what specs would best match the R3's. I have a basic understanding of class A, A/B, D amps but do not know what wattage, etc I should pay attention to. Obviously I do not want to damage my speakers. And I'm not looking to crank up the sound too crazy..

I am not set on the Marantz slim-lines they just looked like the most cost effective way to get quality pre-outs...

 

[everettT]

I would like opinions on what external amps to consider. Do you not like Parasound?

And what specs would best match the R3's. I have a basic understanding of class A, A/B, D amps but do not know what wattage, etc I should pay attention to. Obviously I do not want to damage my speakers. And I'm not looking to crank up the sound too crazy..

I am not set on the Marantz slim-lines they just looked like the most cost effective way to get quality pre-outs...

I like parasound. I've owned esoteric brands throughout the years. My new 2ch setup I'll be using this https://www.qsc.com/cinema/products/power-amplifiers/dca-series/dca-1622/
2ohm stable with excellent distortion numbers and just under $900 shipped. I've been found of pro amps lately (last 10 years or so) the days of me moving a 100# amp are over (not to mention I got sick of having glass face plates replaced on the Macs). The outlaw audio m2200 has been getting rave reviews as well
https://outlawaudio.com/products/2200.html

 

[Sanyobusiness]

If it isn't too rude to piggy back on this thread, I just got the 1509 yesterday to finally replace an old and constantly frustrating Klipsch theater in a box system (cs-500 I think). I used the speakers from that system (it's actually only a 2.1, but I'll probably break down and add the soundbar and rear surround speakers at some point). Well I got it all set up, when I realized that the sub actually isn't powered. I guess it took what power it needed from the receiver, so now I'm guessing that I need a subwoofer too, because I'm getting zero bass from the sub. The other speakers work fine. Additionally, because Klipsch decided to use a rectangular snap in plug for the sub speaker wire, so I had to splice in an RCA end to connect it, so perhaps my splice is just bad?

At any rate, assuming that what I need is a powered sub, what sized sub should I get? Does watts per channel apply to the sub too? This is just for a 13x17 den, so I don't need to tear the roof off the sucker.

 

[everettT]

If it isn't too rude to piggy back on this thread, I just got the 1509 yesterday to finally replace an old and constantly frustrating Klipsch theater in a box system (cs-500 I think). I used the speakers from that system (it's actually only a 2.1, but I'll probably break down and add the soundbar and rear surround speakers at some point). Well I got it all set up, when I realized that the sub actually isn't powered. I guess it took what power it needed from the receiver, so now I'm guessing that I need a subwoofer too, because I'm getting zero bass from the sub. The other speakers work fine. Additionally, because Klipsch decided to use a rectangular snap in plug for the sub speaker wire, so I had to splice in an RCA end to connect it, so perhaps my splice is just bad?

At any rate, assuming that what I need is a powered sub, what sized sub should I get? Does watts per channel apply to the sub too? This is just for a 13x17 den, so I don't need to tear the roof off the sucker.

Budget? Also if you can get make and model off the old gear that would help. Check the individual speakers, sub, and old avr.

 

[Sanyobusiness]

Budget? Also if you can get make and model off the old gear that would help. Check the individual speakers, sub, and old avr.

Some further research turned up this spec rundown on CNET:

(Was going to post the link, but it looks like I'm too new here yet. Anyway the model number of the old system is CS-500 which was an all-in one kit with speakers and receiver, and Cnet has a breakdown of the specs)

I'm definitely a blind newb when it comes to this stuff. And after some online window shopping, I also realize I had no idea how deep the rabbit hole goes. I'm not looking to spend over 500 bucks on a speaker, and if I do spend 500 bucks, I won't announce the price to my wife when I get home.

Thanks in advance.

 

[Ataraxia]

@everettT

Thanks for you input. I ordered a Denon X4400H (due in tmrw) and will run it for a while to get a feel for how it sounds before adding outboard amps... I'm curious just how much benefit they would be.

 

[everettT]

@everettT

Thanks for you input. I ordered a Denon X4400H (due in tmrw) and will run it for a while to get a feel for how it sounds before adding outboard amps... I'm curious just how much benefit they would be.

Cool. Unless you really push them to their upper limits, the Denon should be fine, and a better value than the 7012.

 

[everettT]

If it isn't too rude to piggy back on this thread, I just got the 1509 yesterday to finally replace an old and constantly frustrating Klipsch theater in a box system (cs-500 I think). I used the speakers from that system (it's actually only a 2.1, but I'll probably break down and add the soundbar and rear surround speakers at some point). Well I got it all set up, when I realized that the sub actually isn't powered. I guess it took what power it needed from the receiver, so now I'm guessing that I need a subwoofer too, because I'm getting zero bass from the sub. The other speakers work fine. Additionally, because Klipsch decided to use a rectangular snap in plug for the sub speaker wire, so I had to splice in an RCA end to connect it, so perhaps my splice is just bad?

At any rate, assuming that what I need is a powered sub, what sized sub should I get? Does watts per channel apply to the sub too? This is just for a 13x17 den, so I don't need to tear the roof off the sucker.

Yes a powered sub is in order, as well as new speakers . I'm sure for a desktop system or at low levels HT it was palatable. How large is your room? How far do you sit from the display and speakers?

 

[Sanyobusiness]

Yes a powered sub is in order, as well as new speakers . I'm sure for a desktop system or at low levels HT it was palatable. How large is your room? How far do you sit from the display and speakers?

The room is about 12-13ft wide x 16-17ft deep. The couch is basically on the opposite wall from the speakers, so maybe 15ft from it. I dug up some info on the old speakers (they didn't put any info on the speakers themselves) and the left & right are 35W (or at least the receiver is 35w per left and right channel) and 100W to the subwoofer (which isn't powered).

Now that I've been looking at all the dazzling options that are out there, I think you're right. I just need to get all new speakers and stick the old unit in the basement as a music player. The thing is, I'm not all that crazy about having surround speakers on the sides or behind. The room doesn't have a good place to put them, and I prefer to face the music anyway.

So how essential is a center speaker? I figure to get my wife to stop ragging on how "it sounds crappy now" I've gotta get a new sub pronto, but I figure if I'm going for broke, what should I be looking at as far as L, R and C? Is it essential that the wattage of the speakers matches the per channel wattage of the receiver?