JL 12W6V3 DIY HOME DRIVER HELP (I'M NEW)

[TLS Guy]

I don't trust any model below Fs for a driver unless it is very low Q.

No matter what the model says you should not drive a speaker below fs unless it is very low Q, around 0.25. That includes woofers mids and tweeters.

It is clear from the TS parameters the driver in question is designed to be used in a small sealed box. This way the air pressure will restore the cone to neutral position and keep cone excursion within bounds at full power.

My model does not show that you can use 600 watts in a larger box. In fact it shows over excursion with the 3 db reduction I built in. In addition as with all extended bass alignments the response is not as smooth.

Also for a high Q driver I would not trust any model below Fs.

Generally optimal alignments give you an F3 a little above Fs. My model pushes it as far as I dare, with f3 just a little above fs of the driver.

As in all speaker projects the first and a crucial step is correct driver selection for the project.

I can understand a new builder not realizing that speaker drivers have defined applications, and when trying to specify a driver outside its intended application things can get at least difficult and often impossible.

 

[annunaki]

We are talking about a 4hz difference between the Fs and the tuning of the PR enclosure system. I honestly doubt it will make much difference than if tuned to 26hz other than increasing the F3 and F10 by a few Hz.

I do agree that the primary design goal of the W6v3 series is small enclosure sealed, though in a home environment that will not offer the best performance.

At the end of the day, it is a capable driver and using in a home environment will be pushing its limits some. However, it will still be very capable through most of the intended range and yield good performance.

If the OP is after the last little details of the infrasonic spectrum then I agree a different driver choice may be in order. However, with an F3 at 22hz I am not finding much to be disappointed with looking at the plotted response curve.

 

[lsiberian]

If you can sell them. I suggest you pick up the Dayton ho-4-18-reference drivers instead. These are much more suitable for home theater and there are already numerous builds out there you can use as a template for yours.
https://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-rss460ho-4-18-reference-ho-subwoofer-4-ohm--295-472

For the amp I suggest going with a Crown XLS. It has RCA inputs, DSP and quieter fans.

 

[Lebron1775]

If you can sell them. I suggest you pick up the Dayton ho-4-18-reference drivers instead. These are much more suitable for home theater and there are already numerous builds out there you can use as a template for yours.
https://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-rss460ho-4-18-reference-ho-subwoofer-4-ohm--295-472

For the amp I suggest going with a Crown XLS. It has RCA inputs, DSP and quieter fans.

It's really difficult to get a return on car audio subs. Anyone know where I could post them to get some interest?

Sent from my SM-N950U1 using Tapatalk

 

[TLS Guy]

It's really difficult to get a return on car audio subs. Anyone know where I could post them to get some interest?

Sent from my SM-N950U1 using Tapatalk

There are a lot for sale on eBay right now. These are completed listings. They are a very good driver for car audio.

The trouble is car audio is a closing market.

Car audio is now built into the head units usually and if you get into those then you void the car warranty. If you mess with the wiring harness in these new cars and muck it up you can total the vehicle. Mice can easily send a modern vehicle to the salvage yard.

The other big issue is that modern cars use very high frequency digital regulators and not analog ones. These produce enormous amounts of high frequency junk on the vehicles power bus. The electronics that comes with the vehicle is built to work with that. After market gear usually has a louder buzz than music when attempts are made to install them.

 

[speakerman39]

It's really difficult to get a return on car audio subs. Anyone know where I could post them to get some interest?

Sent from my SM-N950U1 using Tapatalk

Audiomart.com has a "car audio" classified section. It is a great website and I highly recommend it. Here is a link for you:

http://www.usaudiomart.com/classifieds/12-car-audio/



Cheers,

Phil

 

[lovinthehd]

If you can sell them. I suggest you pick up the Dayton ho-4-18-reference drivers instead. These are much more suitable for home theater and there are already numerous builds out there you can use as a template for yours.
https://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-rss460ho-4-18-reference-ho-subwoofer-4-ohm--295-472

For the amp I suggest going with a Crown XLS. It has RCA inputs, DSP and quieter fans.

FWIW the Crown XLS Drivecore amps have some dsp, but mostly about use as a crossover, fine for a sealed sub but not useful for setting a protective high pass filter as spec'd by Annunaki; you can add a minidsp for that or if higher fan noise is acceptable perhaps a Behringer iNuke DSP series amp.

 

[BimmerM415]

HI, just saw this thread and thought I'd share my REW frequency response from 2 JL Audio 12W6v3's in my Home theater. They work really well.