2.1 System without a receiver (just the TV) – is that possible?

[Alexandre]

Hi there,

I wasn't sure if these questions fit best in the Amps, Pre-Pros & Receivers or in the Televisions & Displays forums so I went for General AV Discussions instead.

I've recently posted about moving my home theater to a different, smaller, more family oriented room in the house and therefore temporarily downgrading it to a stereo or stereo + sub system. At first I was thinking about doing pre-pro + powered speakers and now I'm wondering about going even more minimalist (at least for now).

I was wondering if people had thoughts on that. I'm still leaning towards getting a pair of Dynaudio Xeo2 for 2 channel speakers. And now I'm thinking I might just hooked them up straight to the optical output of the TV (a Samsung 5300 series plasma which unfortunately only has 2 HDMI inputs but that'll do for now: 1 for the TV and one for the HTPC).

I have a JL Audio sub – had I discovered these forums earlier I might have gone for an SVS but that ship has sailed – and I was wondering how I could connect it in this scenario… Is there a good way to take the optical output of the TV and turn that into optical + some sort of line level analog for the sub? Would a full pre-pro be the only way to do that?

Help and suggestions would be greatly appreciated!

Cheers,
Alex.

 

[KEW]

The simplest way would be to go from the headphone output from the TV into a splitter, then running one side of the splitter to amplified speakers and the other to the sub. Once you balanced the speaker and sub volumes, the TV volume would be your control for sound level.
If you go from optical, you must have a DAC to convert the signal to analog for the sub. I suppose there may be a pro monitor that has optical input and a sub output.

Will the volume control of the TV will effect the optical out. I don't think so, but don't know. If not, you may not be able to control level or mute sound without going to the speaker's volume control. Hopefully someone can address whether or not the optical output is controlled by the TV volume level.

Part of the issue is getting a setup where the volume will apply equally to the sub and the speakers. That is why the headphone output with a splitter may be your best solution.

Another approach is to get something like the OrbAudio Booster amp. I suspect you are looking for more capable hardware, but this 25RMS WPC stereo amp has optical input and a subwoofer output and adds a remote control.

Edit:
The Emotiva PT-100 may be your best option for an inexpensive, but capable pre-amp. It will do the conversions you want and provide a remote without a ton of "features" that you likely don't care about. At this point, it technically is a pre, but it is more DAC than pre to my mind.
https://emotiva.com/products/pres-and-pros/pt-100

 

[Alexandre]

Thanks Kurt, that's very interesting, I hadn't thought about the level matching and volume control between speakers and sub, that's a very good point though!

I wonder though, if I'm going to add a "box" like the PT-100, I might go full on and get a proper pre-pro with HDMI switching. More things to think about.

 

[j_garcia]

Full pre/pro might be the best bet with a smaller amp OR spend $100 more and get the TA-100 which is like the PT but with an integrated amp.

https://emotiva.com/products/amplifiers/pres-and-pros/ta-100

PE APA-150 has analog outs and decent power. Can be used without a pre, but no remote function and no digital inputs though.

 

[Alexandre]

Full pre/pro might be the best bet with a smaller amp OR spend $100 more and get the TA-100 which is like the PT but with an integrated amp.

https://emotiva.com/products/amplifiers/pres-and-pros/ta-100

PE APA-150 has analog outs and decent power. Can be used without a pre, but no remote function and no digital inputs though.

Hi John,

Interesting option, in that case I wouldn't get the powered speakers obviously. I kinda wish emotiva would launch their emersa line already!

Thanks,
Alex.

 

[afterlife2]

Here is another option If on a budget:
https://www.amazon.com/Digital-Converter-PROZOR-Toslink-X-Rocker/dp/B00KNNSKV0/ref=sr_1_4?s=music&ie=UTF8&qid=1473291968&sr=8-4&keywords=coaxial+cable+to+stereo+converter
and
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ULRFQ1A/ref=twister_B01LN64NI4?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

What model no. is the JL Audio sub?

On the other side of town:
I hope you have an extended warranty with the 5300, not to scare you, but my 51" 5300 developed 3 Vertical lines on the left side of the panel less than 2 weeks ago and it's not even 3 yrs old till Dec.

 

[cel4145]

The Fiio D3 has been around a long time (tons of reviews), and is a good optical DAC for the money: https://www.amazon.com/Digital-Analog-Converter-Optical-Toslink/dp/B005K2TXMO/. Just make sure you can control the volume for your TV through the optical.

 

[j_garcia]

Oppo 103 and 105 can be used without a pre and can source/switch one other HDMI device. Limited options obviously but would be capable of 2.1

 

[Alexandre]

What model no. is the JL Audio sub?

The Fathom f110 (the original one, not the v2). I'm thinking of hooking it up through a wireless adapter.

On the other side of town:
I hope you have an extended warranty with the 5300, not to scare you, but my 51" 5300 developed 3 Vertical lines on the left side of the panel less than 2 weeks ago and it's not even 3 yrs old till Dec.

Ah, interesting, I do not have any extended warranty but mine's working fine so far (it's a 60" model). I guess if it dies soon, it'll solve one of my problems/questions… It'll force me to get a new TV – I kinda need to down size it to go from a 12-14' to a 8-10' viewing distance.

Thanks!

 

[Alexandre]

The Fiio D3 has been around a long time (tons of reviews), and is a good optical DAC for the money: https://www.amazon.com/Digital-Analog-Converter-Optical-Toslink/dp/B005K2TXMO/. Just make sure you can control the volume for your TV through the optical.

I'm going to have to try out soon the optical out and see if it controls volume!

 

[j_garcia]

Whether or not optical out volume control works will depend on the TV. Some only allowed fixed output when using anything other than the internal speakers. Others have the ability to adjust it, but only when other things are turned on, so that will require some poking around in the menus. Look for fixed/variable output.

 

[Alexandre]

Whether or not optical out volume control works will depend on the TV. Some only allowed fixed output when using anything other than the internal speakers. Others have the ability to adjust it, but only when other things are turned on, so that will require some poking around in the menus. Look for fixed/variable output.

Is there anything more fun/enjoyable than digging through the menu system of one's TV? Those are always the best!

 

[afterlife2]

Ah so it won't work with the amp I suggested. I think KEW first option is your best bet. You could also look for a used $75-100 2.1/5.1 on Craigslist.

 

[cel4145]

I'm going to have to try out soon the optical out and see if it controls volume!

I think that's the way to go.

Also, check your TV's settings menu. There might *possibly* be an option that sets whether or not the optical is controlled by the speaker volume.

 

[Diesel57]

Here is another option If on a budget:
https://www.amazon.com/Digital-Converter-PROZOR-Toslink-X-Rocker/dp/B00KNNSKV0/ref=sr_1_4?s=music&ie=UTF8&qid=1473291968&sr=8-4&keywords=coaxial+cable+to+stereo+converter
and
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ULRFQ1A/ref=twister_B01LN64NI4?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

What model no. is the JL Audio sub?

On the other side of town:
I hope you have an extended warranty with the 5300, not to scare you, but my 51" 5300 developed 3 Vertical lines on the left side of the panel less than 2 weeks ago and it's not even 3 yrs old till Dec.

Ummm, you sure afterlife2 is a good screen name for you? or would givelife2 is better?...LOL

 

[TLS Guy]

For nothing better to do I went through the manuals.

You can't do what you want with that selection of equipment without a preamp at least.

Your TV has analog audio outs and optical audio out, but the TV volume control is inoperative on both outputs.

So you need a preamp to control volume. Unfortunately those active wireles speakers do not have a volume control. The speakers will take analog, optical Wi-Fi and Blue Tooth.

So if you don't want bass management then a simple preamp will work. If you want bass management then your best bet is a pre/pro or receiver with preouts.

 

[afterlife2]

Ummm, you sure afterlife2 is a good screen name for you? or would givelife2 is better?...LOL

Um What? PM me if you got a problem and not spam on the OP's thread.

 

[Diesel57]

Um What? PM me if you got a problem and not spam on the OP's thread.

Was complimenting your response in post #6...LOL, your screen name is ideal, was kidding, your response breathed life with options to the issue

 

[Alexandre]

I wonder if I should just give up on this receiver-less idea and go for something like this: http://www.accessories4less.com/make-a-store/item/marnr1606/marantz-nr1606-slimline-7.2-ch-x-50-watts-networking-a/v-receiver/1.html

The Marantz slimline 1606, pretty cheap and it's got stereo pre-out + 2 sub outputs.

Alex.

 

[lovinthehd]

I wonder if I should just give up on this receiver-less idea and go for something like this: http://www.accessories4less.com/make-a-store/item/marnr1606/marantz-nr1606-slimline-7.2-ch-x-50-watts-networking-a/v-receiver/1.html

The Marantz slimline 1606, pretty cheap and it's got stereo pre-out + 2 sub outputs.

Alex.

Relatively, you can do better with a slightly larger case for the feature set. 2 sub pre-outs is somewhat marketing in this avr as an avr with one sub pre-out and using a $2 y-splitter achieves the same thing as this avr is capable of....