New DIY MTM Towers designed by Dennis Murphy and Paul Kittinger

[Researcher]

roadrune, maybe it's too late for asking this, but did you chamfered the back of the front baffle where the 2 mid/bass drivers are located?

 

[roadrune]

roadrune, maybe it's too late for asking this, but did you chamfered the back of the front baffle where the 2 mid/bass drivers are located?

Yes i did. About 30degrees from 10-25mm behind the woofer, and 45degrees the last 10mm.

I am afraid im not allowed to have the er's in the livingroom for more than a couple of days before the 683's are back

 

[FingerlessHackWoodworker]

Hello FingerlessHackWoodworker hope you're fine, just my 2 cents: The problem is the cost won't be the same, kits are less expensive because you're buying a bunch of items at once from a specific store, so they give a (tiny but sometimes bigger) discount. Plus you're only paying shipping once for your order.

If you buy the components separately you'll have a hard time matching the kit price, mainly because S&H rates increase the cost of everything but it doesn't end there, just an example:

I did an experiment today, the Trix Trix MTM only components kit sells for $149.80 at Parts Express, if you add those same components separately in your cart you'll have to pay $209.36, they offer free shipping above $100 so that's not a factor in this case but a difference of $60 bucks for getting the same items from the same store it's quite big.

In the end you'll be spending more buying part by part than buying a kit. Anyway, take it as an advice. I hope you the best with your build, looking good so far, keep posting!

Thanks Researcher. I was real close to just ordering one mid and one tweeter a couple of days ago, as a start. I couldn't get rid of the uncomfortable feeling while staring at the shipping rate. The Dutch in me almost caused me to have a seizure as I contemplated paying shipping 2 or 3 times. Still don't know what approach I will take.

Thanks for the two cents!

 

[FingerlessHackWoodworker]

Your woodworking looks excellent. It is said that the mark of a good carpenter is how he finishes the inside of a closet. Even though those internal braces will be inside the speaker cabs, they are nice work.
As long as you're getting the right part, go for the best price. I think the Meniscus Audio kit may have a better price than all the parts if purchased separately.
That one is too large, 4" diameter. The design calls for a 3" diameter port (see post #2 in this thread).

• If you get a non-flared tube, it should be 2¾" long.
• If flared on the outer end, make it 3¼" long.
• If flared on both ends make it 3¾" long.

They all will get the job done.

Thanks Swerd! Glad you caught my port diameter mistake and for the additional port info. I like the carpenter and closet expression, had not heard that one.

 

[FingerlessHackWoodworker]

You can safely cut the driver holes according to the plans, fits perfect atleast the metric measures for ribbon tweeter and woofers.

Thanks roadrune! Good to know the illustrated dimensions are reliable. I really have been enjoying the progression of your build. Thanks for the inspiration.

 

[Swerd]

Thanks Swerd! Glad you caught my port diameter mistake and for the additional port info.

Did I ever email you the full ER18 MTM write-up? It has all those details in it. The version that Meniscus Audio has is shorter and lacks some details. It's kind of dry & technical to read, but it should have answers to most of your questions.

If you want it, send me your email address by PM.

 

[David LR]

Thanks Researcher. I was real close to just ordering one mid and one tweeter a couple of days ago, as a start. I couldn't get rid of the uncomfortable feeling while staring at the shipping rate. The Dutch in me almost caused me to have a seizure as I contemplated paying shipping 2 or 3 times. Still don't know what approach I will take.

Thanks for the two cents!

Not to throw any more factors into your decision process but also prices go up over time. When I bought this kit (dome verison) in 2012, I was charged 575.92, its now $646.00 for the same thing, really not so bad I guess, it's only 12% or so over 4 years but seems like a lot.

By the way, your work looks good, you can remove the "hack" portion from your moniker. If you are a hack, then I am a sub-hack, whatever that is !

 

[FingerlessHackWoodworker]

Not to throw any more factors into your decision process but also prices go up over time. When I bought this kit (dome verison) in 2012, I was charged 575.92, its now $646.00 for the same thing, really not so bad I guess, it's only 12% or so over 4 years but seems like a lot.

Good point David.

By the way, your work looks good, you can remove the "hack" portion from your moniker. If you are a hack, then I am a sub-hack, whatever that is !

Thanks. My problem has always been glue up. I can cut, for the most part, pretty well. Just never seem to have enough clamps, hands, and time before the glue sets. You probably move much faster than me. Seems like everything I do takes an eternity for fear of making a bad cut. Even when I have it all scripted out, I start to question if I have gotten the script correct. However, I am having fun.

 

[Swerd]

My problem has always been glue up. I can cut, for the most part, pretty well. Just never seem to have enough clamps, hands, and time before the glue sets. You probably move much faster than me. Seems like everything I do takes an eternity for fear of making a bad cut. Even when I have it all scripted out, I start to question if I have gotten the script correct. However, I am having fun.

Just a hint, before gluing up all 4 sides of the cabinet, install the polyfill stuffing, the crossover board(s) and wiring (keep the wires long enough to extend out the driver holes, and trim them later). A dry-test assembly of the cabinet should let you figure out whether to leave the front baffle or one of the cabinet sides for last. Not everyone does it this way, but I find it easier than trying to get everything through a woofer hole once the cabinet is all glued up.

 

[roadrune]

Ended up using some cheap chinese "wood" as veneer, not looking to bad when the price was $16 shipped

 

[Swerd]

Ended up using some cheap chinese "wood" as veneer, not looking to bad when the price was $16 shipped

That's a nice looking solution to go with your other furniture. A flat (non glossy) black veneer is much easier than trying to paint them flat black.

You deserve an award for being the fastest DIY speaker builder in this thread!

 

[Researcher]

Ended up using some cheap chinese "wood" as veneer, not looking to bad when the price was $16 shipped

I tought you painted 'em!...it's an adhesive veneer?, easy to apply?

And yeah, fastest DIY builder of the ERs by far!

 

[roadrune]

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Self-Adhesive-Wood-Grain-Peel-Stick-Wallpaper-Vinyl-Sticker-Film-Sticky-Back-/262304846509?var=561061944200&hash=item3d129652ad:m:mu_32Iohkof3FHxPlXVUK6w

Really easy to work With, much easier then wallpaper.

How can i be the fastest? I spendt two weeks at work in the middle of the build

 

[roadrune]

Does anyone have the plans for the ER15 center, by the way?

 

[Swerd]

Does anyone have the plans for the ER15 center, by the way?

I think DavidLR has them.

 

[David LR]

I think DavidLR has them.

Well, actually, I have plans to have the plans, but don't at this point. Will be glad to share once I've got
them.

Question for Swerd or other knowledgeable ones. In Roadrune's nice pictures of his setup , the offset tweeters are to the outside. Correct me if I'm wrong, but I always thought the tweeters went to the inside of the setup (imaging ?). That's how mine are set up. Probably one of those things that make a theoretical difference but maybe not audible. Which way is the theoretically correct way ??

 

[Swerd]

Well, actually, I have plans to have the plans, but don't at this point. Will be glad to share once I've got them.

Someone has those plans. Who?

In Roadrune's nice pictures of his setup , the offset tweeters are to the outside. Correct me if I'm wrong, but I always thought the tweeters went to the inside of the setup (imaging ?). That's how mine are set up. Probably one of those things that make a theoretical difference but maybe not audible. Which way is the theoretically correct way ??

There is no right or wrong way. What matters is that the tweeters are offset instead of centered on each cabinet.

 

[roadrune]

In a old pair of Dali's my daughter has, the tweeter is also ofset and the speakers is marked left and right. They have the tweeters on the outside.

Ok, i suppose i could build the center from Ares's thread, but i eould really like plans to eliminate misunderstandings. Technical english is difficult...

I have started thinking it might be overkill with er18's as surrounds, can the center be converted to surrounds by tilting the tweeter 90degrees and ofsetting it?

 

[slipperybidness]

In a old pair of Dali's my daughter has, the tweeter is also ofset and the speakers is marked left and right. They have the tweeters on the outside.

Ok, i suppose i could build the center from Ares's thread, but i eould really like plans to eliminate misunderstandings. Technical english is difficult...

I have started thinking it might be overkill with er18's as surrounds, can the center be converted to surrounds by tilting the tweeter 90degrees and ofsetting it?

Perhaps a set of Philharmonic AA ready made for surrounds. $200, but I don't know what the shipping would be to your country, or if Dennis would ship there.

 

[Swerd]

These two threads have information about the design of the ER15 center speaker.

https://forums.audioholics.com/forums/threads/er15-center-channel-build-with-grills-piano-black.97777/#post-1118630

https://forums.audioholics.com/forums/threads/er15-center.86699/

In the USA, a kit is available from Meniscus Audio
http://meniscusaudio.com/er15-center-p-1388.html