Home Audio - What is the "minimally" best I can get for the least amount of money?

[KEW]

I suspect the problem is at the receiver. You likely need to tell it you have a subwoofer attached.
Do not hook speaker cables to the sub at the same time.

What is the label on the input on the back of your sub that you connected to? It is blocked.

 

[Kovacs]

I suspect the problem is at the receiver. You likely need to tell it you have a subwoofer attached.
Do not hook speaker cables to the sub at the same time.

What is the label on the input on the back of your sub that you connected to? It is blocked.

The label says "sub-in".

But, I think I figured it out. I was playing music and there's no bass signal of whatever the formal term is for that (the ".1" part of 5.1 from what I've read). Anyway, when I play some music, it doesn't work. But, after I played a YouTube video, the subwoofer started to rumble!

I bet the right music will rumble, too (or maybe all should?). I set the volume on the subwoofer to 10 on a "high bass song" I searched for on Google and it rumbles when played. Thanks!

 

[Seth=L]

The connector on the subwoofer is labeled "sub in" the other is "Direct" and I instructed him not to use it as it is a full gain only connector.

Make sure the subwoofer setting on the receiver is set to "double bass" or "front + sub" Each manufacturer seems to label this feature differently.

 

[Kovacs]

The connector on the subwoofer is labeled "sub in" the other is "Direct" and I instructed him not to use it as it is a full gain only connector.

Sorry for the noob question, but regarding what you stated earlier about not using LFE, does that mean the receiver's "bass" and subwoofer setting should be set to 0 db, and I simply use the manual controls on the subwoofer to produce the bass? The sub's audio cable is connected using the sub's "sub in" jack, the "direct" has a white plastic piece over it (I'm guessing this is a cover to prevent incidental audio connections). I also set the crossover on the subwoofer to 80.

And, I'll change the receiver settings to double bass once I get the remote in the mail, as I can't seem to access that setting manually on the receiver itself.

 

[KEW]

Make sure the subwoofer setting on the receiver is set to "double bass" or "front + sub" Each manufacturer seems to label this feature differently.

What he said! On my Denon, I need to set the front speakers to "small" for the sub to start playing for music. Once you find the right setting, the sub should play on all content.

If you receiver has the option, I would not use "double bass". I would roll off the mains so they are not working to play 40Hz notes.
But right now it is about getting it all working, not fine tuning it!

Of course, you know the sub works so it is just a matter of time and a little trial and error.

 

[Seth=L]

Sorry for the noob question, but regarding what you stated earlier about not using LFE, does that mean the receiver's "bass" and subwoofer setting should be set to 0 db, and I simply use the manual controls on the subwoofer to produce the bass?

Not necessarily. Both can be useful. Athena was nice enough place easy to access level and crossover controls on the front of the subwoofer. Typically I'd run the subwoofer gain at about 1/3 and set the crossover to the highest setting then use the receiver's integral crossover to manage the blend of bass from your speakers to the subwoofer. The easiest way to ensure this is done properly is to set all speakers to small which will automatically always send a signal to the subwoofer when low frequency material is present.

Your subwoofer has a signal detection circuit that is very sensitive. When a signal is present the light will change from red to green and it will begin to output bass. If a couple minutes go by without any significant output the subwoofer amplifier will go into standby mode and the light will change back to red.

The sub's audio cable is connected using the sub's "sub in" jack, the "direct" has a white plastic piece over it (I'm guessing this is a cover to prevent incidental audio connections). I also set the crossover on the subwoofer to 80.

You are correct about the direct input cover. You don't need to use it, I wouldn't bother with it. As I said above I would set the crossover to the highest setting and then use the crossover in the receiver. Basically turning the crossover to the max setting is a bypass so the crossover in the receiver and the subwoofer do not compound one another and create a roll off that is too steep which would undoubtedly giving you a bass null. I would likely set the crossover in the receiver at 60 or 80hz with all speakers set to small (I know the speakers aren't small, but there's no reason to have multiple speakers playing full range when there's a capable subwoofer present to fill in the lowest bass. In fact having multiple speakers attempting to play the same frequencies can produce bass humps and nulls.

And, I'll change the receiver settings to double bass once I get the remote in the mail, as I can't seem to access that setting manually on the receiver itself.

It's probably accessible, Yamaha receivers are notoriously difficult to navigate setup without a remote though. For now I'd just use the crossover on the subwoofer until such a time you can get into the receiver's setup.

 

[Seth=L]

If you receiver has the option, I would not use "double bass". I would roll off the mains so they are not working to play 40Hz notes.
But right now it is about getting it all working, not fine tuning it!

Of course, you know the sub works so it is just a matter of time and a little trial and error.

Yeah, I probably should have not recommended that, I should have started with setting speakers to small. That would work much better for the intended purpose and design of this system.

 

[Kovacs]

What he said! On my Denon, I need to set the front speakers to "small" for the sub to start playing for music. Once you find the right setting, the sub should play on all content.

If you receiver has the option, I would not use "double bass". I would roll off the mains so they are not working to play 40Hz notes.
But right now it is about getting it all working, not fine tuning it!

Of course, you know the sub works so it is just a matter of time and a little trial and error.

Yeah, I probably should have not recommended that, I should have started with setting speakers to small. That would work much better for the intended purpose and design of this system.

Sweet!

I definitely do notice plenty of bass (with minor rumbling felt) coming from the center and other speakers, and I'll make sure to set the speakers to small to make the subwoofer the designated bass producer.

I'll take another look at the receiver to see if I can find the "small" speaker setting. Hopefully I'll get the remote soon in the mail either way. And, besides the "small" setting, I will just need to fine tune everything by trial and error.

Last but not least, thank you Seth=L and KEW for all of your help on this subwoofer! It's been a tremendous learning experience, being a novice and all. Hopefully I'll be more competent the next time I wire an HT system or add a device to my current setup lol.

 

[Seth=L]

Just imagine if you had our full services package!

 

[KEW]

Is there a model number on the back of your main speakers?
What is it?

 

[markw]

Is there a model number on the back of your main speakers?
What is it?

My guess is they are the AS-F1 speaker.

I found this in the archives: http://www.hometheatersound.com/equipment/athena_audition_asf1_asc1_asb1.htm

 

[KEW]

My guess is they are the AS-F1 speaker.

I found this in the archives: http://www.hometheatersound.com/equipment/athena_audition_asf1_asc1_asb1.htm

For the AS-F1, SVS's Merlin bass management "calculator" suggests a 60 Hz crossover if the receiver is controlling the bass (the preferred way if your gear can do it - and it can, but that may be easier after you get the remote).
In the mean time, if you want to integrate the sub with the natural roll-off (low frequency limitations) of the AS-F1, set it to 40Hz on the back of the sub (again per Merlin).

http://www.svsound.com/support/merlin

 

[Seth=L]

For the AS-F1, SVS's Merlin bass management "calculator" suggests a 60 Hz crossover if the receiver is controlling the bass (the preferred way if your gear can do it - and it can, but that may be easier after you get the remote).
In the mean time, if you want to integrate the sub with the natural roll-off (low frequency limitations) of the AS-F1, set it to 40Hz on the back of the sub (again per Merlin).

http://www.svsound.com/support/merlin

The controls are on the front. Athena also marked crossover points not just numerically, but by model of the same series speakers.

 

[KEW]

The controls are on the front. Athena also marked crossover points not just numerically, but by model of the same series speakers.

Nice!!!

 

[Kovacs]

For the AS-F1, SVS's Merlin bass management "calculator" suggests a 60 Hz crossover if the receiver is controlling the bass (the preferred way if your gear can do it - and it can, but that may be easier after you get the remote).
In the mean time, if you want to integrate the sub with the natural roll-off (low frequency limitations) of the AS-F1, set it to 40Hz on the back of the sub (again per Merlin).

http://www.svsound.com/support/merlin

Ok, I got the remote today. I've been fiddling with it and going back and forth with the manual.

I manually set the bass to 60 Hz via knob on the subwoofer. I also set the receiver's subwoofer crossover to 60 Hz. All of the speakers are set to small. Now I'm just tweaking the settings for a more optimal audio experience.

And, it looks like the remote can also control the TV, at least in theory. I plugged in the 4 digit code for my Sony KDL-40S4100 TV and only two of the codes work, but it doesn't control the TV (code is accepted, but the TV itself does not register anything from the remote, only the receiver).

Do I need to have the Toslink connected between the TV and receiver for the remote to affect the TV? I thought it was independent just as universal remotes are. If the solution is to simply add another Toslink cable, that should be easy. I have another one coming in the mail.

And, are the front speakers supposed to sound the same as the center speaker? When playing a specific song, the center speaker is crisp, while the front speakers cut in and out. Maybe it's just the nature of the song and it's supposed to make a surround effect? It doesn't do that for a video I play so I'm thinking it's just the particular random song I chose to play.

 

[KEW]

The way you describe setting up your sub sounds good except you need to change the setting on the sub to the highest setting (usually around 150Hz - 200Hz). The idea is to let the receiver do the crossover because it is controlling both the speakers and the sub so it can make for a smoother cross over. By setting the sub to it's highest crossover point, it won't interfere with the AVR's crossover.

No, I am afraid a toslink will do nothing to improve the function of the remote.

On my Denon remote, there is an "AMP" button that is pushed before I have full function to control the AVR. I have always assumed that if I used it for my TV, I would need to push the TV button for full function, but I have never tried this. Play with it some and also check the manual.

Your description of what is happening with the front 3 speakers sounds screwed up, but get some more listening under your belt and verify whether it is only a particular song that has issues.

 

[Seth=L]

Ok, I got the remote today. I've been fiddling with it and going back and forth with the manual.

Good.

I manually set the bass to 60 Hz via knob on the subwoofer. I also set the receiver's subwoofer crossover to 60 Hz.

As KEW said, you should turn the crossover on the subwoofer up to max (not to be confused with the output level). By setting the crossover on the subwoofer to the same as the receiver you're cascading the roll-off and the drop is going to be too steep causing a gap in output between the subwoofer and your main speakers.

All of the speakers are set to small. Now I'm just tweaking the settings for a more optimal audio experience.

Good that you have all the speakers set to small.

And, it looks like the remote can also control the TV, at least in theory. I plugged in the 4 digit code for my Sony KDL-40S4100 TV and only two of the codes work, but it doesn't control the TV (code is accepted, but the TV itself does not register anything from the remote, only the receiver).

I'm afraid I don't understand what you're saying exactly here. How can only two of the codes work, but not work?

Do I need to have the Toslink connected between the TV and receiver for the remote to affect the TV? I thought it was independent just as universal remotes are. If the solution is to simply add another Toslink cable, that should be easy. I have another one coming in the mail.

Toslink cables are for the transmission of digital SPDIF audio from the source to the receiver, they serve no other function.

And, are the front speakers supposed to sound the same as the center speaker? When playing a specific song, the center speaker is crisp, while the front speakers cut in and out. Maybe it's just the nature of the song and it's supposed to make a surround effect? It doesn't do that for a video I play so I'm thinking it's just the particular random song I chose to play.

That depends on what DSP or surround mode being used. For music most prefer to run in standard stereo since that was how it was meant to be played. Most movies are mastered in multichannel and are meant to be played as multichannel.

 

[Kovacs]

I'm afraid I don't understand what you're saying exactly here. How can only two of the codes work, but not work?

When I enter all of the other codes, the remote display reads: "NG" for no good. When I enter 2 of the codes, it reads: "OK" (even if the codes are for other TV brands, it'll show up as "OK" but obviously won't work with my Sony TV). I chatted with a Sony rep and she ensured me that all of the codes I put into the remote are correct. So, I'm not sure why the Yamaha's remote isn't registering with the TV.

 

[Kovacs]

As per manual and online resources, here are the steps I took below to program my Sony TV into the OEM Yamaha remote. Perhaps someone can point out where I may have done something incorrectly. And, the remote does work with the receiver to change its volume, settings, etc., but does not affect the TV directly (e.g. I can watch a movie with my TV using the sounds from the receiver, but the audio, channels, etc. doesn't change on the TV itself with the Yamaha remote).


The Remote

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Next I need to tell the remote to learn the Sony TV's code.


- I set the knob on the right of the remote to "Source"

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- I switched the "Learn" function to "On", and I used a pencil-pint-thin object to push and hold the "Learn" button for 3 seconds.

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- The screen gets bright and I select the "DTV" button and the screen displays "L ; TV" for "Learn TV".

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- I input the code (0235) and it shows OK afterwards. I push the "Learn button once more to get out of the Learn function.

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- I change the knob to the right of the remote to TV. I then use the volume and channel controls labeled "TV VOL" and "CH" on the left and center of the remote, as shown respectively...

...and nothing registers on the TV. The volume on the TV does not change, the channel does not change, and the TV power button on the upper-left most of the remote does not turn on/off the Sony TV. Is the initial "DTV" source incorrect - does that simply refer to the source for the receiver to change the volume for, and thus, my Yamaha remote isn't made to program TVs directly? I'm just making sure about this, though the manual and online resources makes it pretty evident that the Yamaha remote can be used as a TV remote.

I also tried changing the input on my Sony TV to "TV" mode (as opposed to "HDMI" mode for my PC), and that doesn't work either.

FYI, before all of these steps were taken, I changed the label name of the "DTV" input to "HDTV" for my own minor convenience. It does not affect the function of the "DTV" input (e.g. it doesn't make it perform as a DVD player, it's simply a name change).

 

[Seth=L]

I admire the effort you're putting into this. Sorry I'm not much help with universal remotes, I like to use OEM remotes for some crazy reason, I don't believe in convenience.