Home Audio - What is the "minimally" best I can get for the least amount of money?

[Kovacs]

Explain what the other end of the cable connected to "PC audio in" is connected to.

It's currently connected behind the receiver like this, according to the manual where it refers to Cable TV (last diagram below). The second image is of behind the TV for PC audio in (right below the VGA plug). I believe that is incorrect as I'd want audio out, so my guess would be that I need the white-red males to white-red males to hook the TV ("fix" audio out on right of panel) to the receiver (leaving it how it is currently connected).

I've also made sure that the mode is DTV/CBL (for TV) on the receiver.

 

[KEW]

Bingo!
I think you found your answer!

 

[Kovacs]

Bingo!
I think you found your answer!

Yeah that's what I thought. I'm going to have to go to the store. I think I'll need at least one more of the connectors to the speaker (since I only have three). I don't think I'll have room for the other two speakers, unfortunately - unless I can put the speakers on their side atop my bookshelves(?).

 

[Kovacs]

The sub connects with an audio cable to the receiver.

Since the speakers and tweeter each have their own audio in on the receiver, do I get a single splitter from the TV audio out to connect to all of those audio jacks? So, red-white audio out on TV panel, which splits to 10 total jacks connecting to the receiver?

I don't have that many plugs behind my tv, unless external decoder refers to something else.

 

[KEW]

Get a TOSLINK optical cable to go from TV to receiver. It connects just below the HDMI cable on your TV.

 

[Kovacs]

Get a TOSLINK optical cable to go from TV to receiver. It connects just below the HDMI cable on your TV.

Will this mean I don't need separate red-white audio cables for all of the other speakers, sub, and tweeter? So the TOSLINK optical cable does everything?? That'll be really nice.

From what I've read online, that seems to be the case, and that's what I think you're referring to, but I just want to make sure.

I know I'll still need to twist the wires to each of the speakers/sub, but if the connection to the TV and receiver is simplified with one optical cable to one jack on both units, that'll be marvelous.

 

[Kovacs]

Ok, I got the speaker to work via the TOSLink I purchased... sort of.

The issue was that the my TV's input is on HDMI for my PC. It works when the TV is on TV mode.

So, now I'm trying to figure out how to use the PC as the audio source (when TV is on HDMI mode).
I plugged the Toslink into the back of my PC via the motherboard, and that doesn't work.
Perhaps the audio that's carried in my HDMI connection from my PC to TV is overriding the Toslink.

 

[KEW]

Ok, I got the speaker to work via the TOSLink I purchased... sort of.

The issue was that the my TV's input is on HDMI for my PC. It works when the TV is on TV mode.

So, now I'm trying to figure out how to use the PC as the audio source (when TV is on HDMI mode).
I plugged the Toslink into the back of my PC via the motherboard, and that doesn't work.
Perhaps the audio that's carried in my HDMI connection from my PC to TV is overriding the Toslink.

I'm not familiar with PC outputs, but disconnect the HDMI, reboot, and see if you can get audio to the receiver using the TosLink. That will at least answer your question about whether the HDMI is over-riding the TosLink.
If it is, you can try something like this;
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00Y0920B4?keywords=HDMI toslink adapter&qid=1446239253&ref_=sr_1_1&sr=8-1

 

[KEW]

The toslink cable should have all signals.

Your comment about wiring each woofer and tweeter scares me! Only two connections should be made between the receiver and each speaker!

 

[KEW]

The connection on the left looks solid, but the one on teh right does not seem to be properly connected and it looks like the two wires are likely contacting one another which presents a short!

 

[Kovacs]

The toslink cable should have all signals.

Your comment about wiring each woofer and tweeter scares me! Only two connections should be made between the receiver and each speaker!

Whoops I meant the plug for the subwoofer.

And, I don't have the tweeter - I'm not sure why I wrote that before.

I got the toslink, all 5 speakers work when watching TV channels, the bass turns on but I need to buy the subwoofer cables, and all HT units are in their positions in the room. Besides hooking up the bass, I need to get the receiver to work with my PC via my TV's HDMI mode.

I found out that my TV is just old enough that it doesn't allow for the HDMI > TV > optical > receiver to work; whereas, newer TVs allow it, at least according to this site and what I've found in-person to be true:
https://www.avforums.com/threads/kdl-40s4100-no-optical-out-audio.964943/

If your first suggestion in post #88 falls through, I think it may be that a specific driver needs to be installed for my motherboard, as all of the sound is coming through my graphics card (although newer TVs will work, I think that my TV only accepts audio out from the HDMI and won't relay that audio signal to the optical - maybe there's a driver for the motherboard to tell it to not send an audio signal to the HDMI and only the optical). The issue with this "solution" would be that I'd have to manually unplug the Toslink from the motherboard/PC and plug it into the TV if I want to watch TV.

Assuming that the HDMI converter doesn't work, I may have to upgrade to a new HDTV lol.

Thanks for all of your help - you've been very patient with me and I greatly appreciate all that you've informed me with.

 

[Kovacs]

I GOT IT TO WORK!

I had to go to the BIOS screen on my PC, disable the onboard (motherboard) audio, restart the computer, change it back to enabled, and set the S/PDIF as the default sound and it worked!

I think the PC needed a (really) hard reset - I've restarted the computer plenty of times before then since I hooked up my HT system.

However, if I want my TV channels to work with the HT audio, I have to manually switch the Toslink back to the TV.

So, I think I'll need to buy a 2 input 1 output Toslink digital audio switcher, along with two additional Toslink cables.

And, I'll need to buy a remote for the receiver...

 

[KEW]

So, the important thing - how is the sound?

You can have two toslink inputs into your receiver and select them via the input control on your receiver.
I think I remember 4 optical (toslink) inputs on the back of your AVR.

 

[Kovacs]

So, the important thing - how is the sound?

You can have two toslink inputs into your receiver and select them via the input control on your receiver.
I think I remember 4 optical (toslink) inputs on the back of your AVR.

It sounds great! As a newbie, I'm not sure how to describe it compared to the built-in TV speakers. It sounds like the audio's coming from everywhere, and I can't really pinpoint where it's coming from relative to the TV speakers (volume muted), and the sounds are crisper with more details. I'll have to see how the sub turns out!

And, your solution is SOO much better and cheaper! I plugged the PC into the DVD input on the receiver. I'll just need to buy the receiver's remote now. Thanks again for everything!

 

[KEW]

Happy to help, but BSA and Mark are the guys who found and confirmed beyond doubt what a great buy that was. And then, there's just dumb luck that a deal that good happened to be sitting there when you were looking for a system!

You'll like the sub!

Any leads on a remote? You are lucky that it is a big name like Yamaha. As long as they used the same RC for several models (and most companies do) you should be able to find one. Ebay is the first place I would look.

There are universal remotes, but they do not always allow for all of the features of the original remote (but still better than no remote if you cannot find the original).

 

[Seth=L]

Which subwoofer is it? The AS-P300 or P400?

When you connect the subwoofer with the RCA cable I suggest using the standard input not LFE (the LFE is full gain all the time, the level control on the subwoofer does not have any control on that)

I'm not sure if this has been mentioned already, but be sure when you're making connections to speakers and subwoofers that the receiver and subwoofer are not connected to the power outlet as you risk doing damage to components.

 

[Kovacs]

Happy to help, but BSA and Mark are the guys who found and confirmed beyond doubt what a great buy that was. And then, there's just dumb luck that a deal that good happened to be sitting there when you were looking for a system!

You'll like the sub!

Any leads on a remote? You are lucky that it is a big name like Yamaha. As long as they used the same RC for several models (and most companies do) you should be able to find one. Ebay is the first place I would look.

There are universal remotes, but they do not always allow for all of the features of the original remote (but still better than no remote if you cannot find the original).

Ahh yes, thank you very much BSA and Mark! Especially to Mark for your patience - I know I must be asking some noob questions, but I got a lot out of it, esp. the great deal!

The remote... well the Craigslist guy said he'll email me once he finds it, since he recently moved. I told him I'll send him a PayPal payment to cover shipping since I don't want to make that drive for such a small transaction. Otherwise, eBay it is.

I'm actually looking for a universal remote to use for my HT system and the TV, along with any other devices that I may use in the future. I'll have to look into that if the Craigslist guy can't find the remote.

 

[Kovacs]

Which subwoofer is it? The AS-P300 or P400?

When you connect the subwoofer with the RCA cable I suggest using the standard input not LFE (the LFE is full gain all the time, the level control on the subwoofer does not have any control on that)

I'm not sure if this has been mentioned already, but be sure when you're making connections to speakers and subwoofers that the receiver and subwoofer are not connected to the power outlet as you risk doing damage to components.

The subwoofer is the AS-P400.

I'll unplug all the power before connecting the subwoofer cable.

Thanks for letting me know.

 

[Seth=L]

The subwoofer is the AS-P400.

I'll unplug all the power before connecting the subwoofer cable.

Thanks for letting me know.

I had that exact model. A friend of mine now has it. It's a very good subwoofer for its size and it digs deep for a 10" (23Hz). I'll never understand why they did not make a 12" of the same design, I'm sure it would have been killer.

 

[Kovacs]

Which subwoofer is it? The AS-P300 or P400?

When you connect the subwoofer with the RCA cable I suggest using the standard input not LFE (the LFE is full gain all the time, the level control on the subwoofer does not have any control on that)

I'm not sure if this has been mentioned already, but be sure when you're making connections to speakers and subwoofers that the receiver and subwoofer are not connected to the power outlet as you risk doing damage to components.

Ok, I followed Seth=L's advice and unplugged both the receiver and the subwoofer from the power outlet. I then connected the Belkin PureAV subwoofer audio cable between the receiver (pictured in highlights below) and the subwoofer (as shown in the last image of the sub's back). I plugged the power cords back in for both, turned the receiver on (subwoofer's power LED light shows it's on, as there's no on/off button for it), and I get no bass or any sort of audio from the subwoofer. I changed the volume and even increased the bass level via tone control on the receiver and there's still no bass.

Do I need to connect the sub to the receiver and the front speakers via speaker wires as well? The manual doesn't seem to mention this from what I can tell. And, I read online that there may be issues with erroneously overlapping subwoofer and front speaker/receiver wires, so I'm concerned about breaking the electronic components to try it out without expert opinions on this.

There is mention in the manual of a 6 and 8 channel connection for the subwoofer (with separate connection jacks) for multi-channel mode, but I'm not using that, so I don't believe that is relevant to my case.

I also don't think it's the subwoofer audio cable, as it's brand new and I just picked it up at the store today. Though, I guess it could be possible...