Yamaha Integrated Amplifiers Quality and Affordability Unite!

[KEW]

one thing people often forget is that Yamaha has gotten UL certification for 4 ohms on this product. most companies, don't certify their amplifiers for UL let alone 4 ohm certification. This is why in this particular case Yamaha has the impedance switch.

I am confident that this Yamaha product can drive a 4 ohm speaker quite easily and I will find out soon enough.

I have an A-S700 and it is a very solid amp, but I bought it mainly because it has the classic Yamaha loudness control. Until Audyssey introduced Dynamic EQ, it was really the only loudness control that did what they are intended to.
It is nice to get a full sound without playing at reference levels.

 

[highfigh]

I think we agree on many things but not this one. We already have the science and engineering knowledge, technique and precise instruments such that we can say with confidence that if it can't be measured, it is not audible to normal people. People landed on the moon every time they tried, so what's the big deal about audio amps. Conversely if it is audible to normal people, then the causes of the audible differences can be measured. I am not saying manufacturers are measuring everything audible that need to be measured, but I am sure they can be.

I felt my ancient Marantz amp sounded a little "warmer", and by just using the $100 REW kit I was able to compare the frequency responses between it and the A21 using the same speakers. The Marantz has a little more output in the low end and also a little more in the mid high band.

New AVRs have far more processing power than Apollo capsules- what does that tell you?

I wasn't actually saying the differences can't be heard and I should have made that clear. The amplifier measurements don't show dynamic phase variations with music- only a couple of tests use more than one frequency and even then, it's pure sine or square wave. I don't even know if someone has designed something to compare complex waveforms at the input and output, but I think it's time for that.

Were you testing the Marantz speaker output or was this the amp's output when connected to a load resistor? That would be interesting to see a comparison WRT fixed load vs dynamic load. I always thought Marantz and a few other brands seemed warm too, but not limited at the high frequencies. I have an old Kenwood receiver that sounds OK by itself but when the same speakers are connected to a better amp, the difference is drastic. By comparison, the Kenwood's high end is almost non-existent.

I think this may be where the "Brand X sounds thin vs Brand Y or Z" should be tested- check the amplifier's response with load resistors and while connected to speakers. I haven't seen this, so far.

 

[PENG]

New AVRs have far more processing power than Apollo capsules- what does that tell you?

You have a point there but for argument sake only, because we are talking about integrated amps (matured technology), okay in this case there is a DAC but that'a about it.

I wasn't actually saying the differences can't be heard and I should have made that clear. The amplifier measurements don't show dynamic phase variations with music- only a couple of tests use more than one frequency and even then, it's pure sine or square wave. I don't even know if someone has designed something to compare complex waveforms at the input and output, but I think it's time for that.

Agree.

Were you testing the Marantz speaker output or was this the amp's output when connected to a load resistor? That would be interesting to see a comparison WRT fixed load vs dynamic load. I always thought Marantz and a few other brands seemed warm too, but not limited at the high frequencies. I have an old Kenwood receiver that sounds OK by itself but when the same speakers are connected to a better amp, the difference is drastic. By comparison, the Kenwood's high end is almost non-existent.

Nope, unlike Gene, I don't have the precision instrument to do those things. I said I used REW software with my minidsp mic, sorry I called that a kit as they work together well, but they are two different independent products. REW is free with an optional donation for membership, the minidsp mic is the one that I bought online for around $100. I was trying to make the point that if there was a difference it could be measured, and in the example I used it was quite easy to do.

Basically I just used the minidsp mic and REW (Room Equalization Wizard) software to plot frequency responses and distortions. One using the >30 year old Marantz amp to drive my pair of LS50 (real speakers not a resistor load) and the with the A21 power amp. Same Cambridge audio preamp in both cases. I can PM you the graphs if you are interested.

I feel that even my simple and cheap test method can measure and show audible differences and if it can't show it, I can't hear it. I know I am over simplifying things but I am confident that the results may not be highly accurate but it does the job for me.

 

[Alex2507]

I have an A-S700 and it is a very solid amp, but I bought it mainly because it has the classic Yamaha loudness control. Until Audyssey introduced Dynamic EQ, it was really the only loudness control that did what they are intended to.
It is nice to get a full sound without playing at reference levels.

Oh ... now I get it.

 

[Goliath]

I felt my ancient Marantz amp sounded a little "warmer", and by just using the $100 REW kit I was able to compare the frequency responses between it and the A21 using the same speakers. The Marantz has a little more output in the low end and also a little more in the mid high band.

REW kit? You mean with a condenser mic? So you did an acoustical measurement?

 

[highfigh]

Thank goodness amps don't output maximum voltage by default, right? So what do you think would happen if the amp was to face a momentary 3 ohm impedance dip at some frequency? Volume levels are kind of important here, right? What about how low the frequency is at the 3 ohm impedance?

What if the music you listen to has no energy at frequencies where the speaker impedance at 3 ohms, hypothetically speaking, was at a minimum? Your insight is required!

The power amp doesn't output maximum by default? Might not be any voltage at the input, but any voltage will be amplified at a fixed rate, AFAIK. I don't think an amplifier will do well with no input when the speaker terminals are shorted, but at 3 Ohms, the effect (current) will be determined by the

You have a point there but for argument sake only, because we are talking about integrated amps (matured technology), okay in this case there is a DAC but that'a about it.

Nope, unlike Gene, I don't have the precision instrument to do those things. I said I used REW software with my minidsp mic, sorry I called that a kit as they work together well, but they are two different independent products. REW is free with an optional donation for membership, the minidsp mic is the one that I bought online for around $100. I was trying to make the point that if there was a difference it could be measured, and in the example I used it was quite easy to do.

Basically I just used the minidsp mic and REW (Room Equalization Wizard) software to plot frequency responses and distortions. One using the >30 year old Marantz amp to drive my pair of LS50 (real speakers not a resistor load) and the with the A21 power amp. Same Cambridge audio preamp in both cases. I can PM you the graphs if you are interested.

I feel that even my simple and cheap test method can measure and show audible differences and if it can't show it, I can't hear it. I know I am over simplifying things but I am confident that the results may not be highly accurate but it does the job for me.

[/QUOTE]

I have REW, too- it does things TruRTA doesn't and that cost me almost $100.

I'm thinking about buying an oscilloscope that connects to a computer via USB- the ones I'm looking at are about $60 but the trick would be in comparing the input signal with the amp's output and finding something that's audible, but not measurable. If I had a mixer with phase controls, I could try that- I hear so much through my Parasound that wasn't there with the Denon AVR- that has to be measurable.

 

[PENG]

I'm thinking about buying an oscilloscope that connects to a computer via USB- the ones I'm looking at are about $60 but the trick would be in comparing the input signal with the amp's output and finding something that's audible, but not measurable. If I had a mixer with phase controls, I could try that- I hear so much through my Parasound that wasn't there with the Denon AVR- that has to be measurable.

An "ordinary" oscilloscope won't cut it. If I understood your earlier post about comparing input/output waveforms, at the minimum you need a good spectrum analyzer. By the way, I think I know why my Marantz amp has higher bass output than the Parasound amp. It was late in the day after spending hours and hours trying to set up my new sub. When I did the comparison, I forgot to turn the sub off. The Parasound's gain is about 1.5 to 2 dB higher than the Marantz and that must have been the real issue. Volume mismatching did its trick again!!

 

[PENG]

REW kit? You mean with a condenser mic? So you did an acoustical measurement?

Yes, with a mic, REW does the measurement using a tone. It's a bit like running Audyssey.

 

[highfigh]

An "ordinary" oscilloscope won't cut it. If I understood your earlier post about comparing input/output waveforms, at the minimum you need a good spectrum analyzer. By the way, I think I know why my Marantz amp has higher bass output than the Parasound amp. It was late in the day after spending hours and hours trying to set up my new sub. When I did the comparison, I forgot to turn the sub off. The Parasound's gain is about 1.5 to 2 dB higher than the Marantz and that must have been the real issue. Volume mismatching did its trick again!!

I'm not buying it for this specifically, I also buy and restore old guitar amps (tube only) and I'm tired of not having a scope. I could have my friend look at some of them, but he lives too far away for that to be a reasonable trip. I need to make sure the bias is right and it will help for checking the output (power and signal quality). I use REW for spectrum/RTA but so far, not at line/speaker level.

I haven't used my sub in about a year. I go through phases where I get tired of strong bass and it started when I was still doing car audio. My speakers do pretty well for low end- F3 is around 38Hz and they're a good fit for this room. I still have a decent amount of energy below 30Hz (shown on the RTA). I watched some videos of the pipe organ in Atlantic City and they did pretty well with the bass pedals, which use 64' pipes. Those videos are an excellent way to prove that someone with small speakers needs a sub-woofer- the lowest notes were heavily modulating the mid-range.

 

[Leroy Jenkins]

I have the A-S501. It gives you a lot of performance and value for the $300 or so I paid for it.

 

[Schurkey]

First off this is NOT a review.

OK, I accept that what I read is a preview. Apparently, the information I consider of "primary" importance isn't a priority to most others.

Secondly if you read our article on Impedance Selector switches you will understand what the switch is and why its there.

I have read the article, I still do not understand what the switch does. My own amps do not have selector switches. I've never used an amp with a selector switch. The impression I have is that these products have an impedance selector switch because the amp section is flawed/weak/overly-compromised due to cost constraints, and it's cheaper to install a switch than to build it more robustly and eliminate the need for the switch.

I am not an electrical engineer, but it seems to me that there are at least four ways to implement an "impedance switch". This could range from the ridiculously simple (switching a resistor pair in or out of the two output circuits, limiting current when engaged, but destroying damping factor, and probably increasing noise in the process) or limiting (compressing) the input signal so the amp cannot develop voltage over some threshold. They could switch an output transformer, exchanging voltage for current (Not likely, the transformer would cost more than building the amp with greater current drive) or they could switch the power transformer to a lower voltage, so the power rails feeding the output transistors were lower.

All of these methods except perhaps the last one, would degrade the sound to some extent.

Never in the history of home audio have more speakers rated at 4-ohm (or lower) nominal impedance been available, and "4-ohm" speakers are a larger percentage of the total speakers available. As far as I'm concerned, any amp that can't drive 4-ohm nominal impedance with grace is unfit for the marketplace, and I expect a 4-ohm rating for the amplifier. Yamaha is not providing an FTC 4-ohm rating--and the "LOW IMPEDANCE" position of the selector switch is recommended for 4-ohm and ABOVE, not 4-ohm and below!

My own primary speakers were rated as 4-ohm nominal when manufactured back in the middle-eighties. They're modified with lower-DC-resistance inductors, and lower-value resistors in the tweeter side of the crossovers, to bring the treble up a bit. I suppose that they are now 2- or 3-ohm speakers, but I have no way to test them.

I have no doubt based on past experiences with Yamaha that it will deliver above rated power.

I only remind you that like all amps, it surely will...depending on the conditions of the test--unless you're suggesting that the amp is under-rated for reasons known only to Yamaha.

I plan on requesting a sample to review in the coming months to bench test.

Excellent.

As for the country of origin, I believe its made in Malaysia (the same country of origin of Revel Speakers). Does that make Revel junk too?

Who cares where it's made so long as its made well by a competent factory with skilled employees.

I care where a product is made.

1. I despise being forced to buy Communist Chinese products because they--and the Communist Collaborators in this country--have already destroyed any domestic production of a product category. "Made in Malaysia" is actually a step "UP" from Communist China, as far as I'm concerned.

2. I care about environmental impact created by manufacturing--made worse by either the lack of environmental protection regulation in third-world countries; or the lack of enforcement of environmental regulations.

3. I care about the way third-world employees are treated. Slave- and child-labor are improper; but it's a fact of life in some regions. I care about wage scales, I care about worker protection beyond installing suicide nets. Anyone who thinks Lincoln did a good job with the Emancipation Proclamation should be ashamed of the way employees are abused in some foreign lands. Given a choice, I would not support the (mis)use of distressed workers in ANY country--and American workers should not have to compete against distressed workers.

4. If America's economy is in trouble--and it is--sending bales of money to foreign lands is hardly the way to solve our problem. Trade imbalance should be prevented. "Trade" is supposed to work both ways, but it clearly doesn't.

For those reasons, when I have a choice, I would pay extra to buy American, North American, or Free-World products (in that order). If I were Canadian...I'd support Canadian industry.

 

[PENG]

O
For those reasons, when I have a choice, I would pay extra to buy American, North American, or Free-World products (in that order). If I were Canadian...I'd support Canadian industry.

I hope your next smart phone will be a Blackberry if not already, instead of Apple or Samsung.

 

[highfigh]

OK, I accept that what I read is a preview. Apparently, the information I consider of "primary" importance isn't a priority to most others.


I have read the article, I still do not understand what the switch does. My own amps do not have selector switches. I've never used an amp with a selector switch. The impression I have is that these products have an impedance selector switch because the amp section is flawed/weak/overly-compromised due to cost constraints, and it's cheaper to install a switch than to build it more robustly and eliminate the need for the switch.

I am not an electrical engineer, but it seems to me that there are at least four ways to implement an "impedance switch". This could range from the ridiculously simple (switching a resistor pair in or out of the two output circuits, limiting current when engaged, but destroying damping factor, and probably increasing noise in the process) or limiting (compressing) the input signal so the amp cannot develop voltage over some threshold. They could switch an output transformer, exchanging voltage for current (Not likely, the transformer would cost more than building the amp with greater current drive) or they could switch the power transformer to a lower voltage, so the power rails feeding the output transistors were lower.

All of these methods except perhaps the last one, would degrade the sound to some extent.

Never in the history of home audio have more speakers rated at 4-ohm (or lower) nominal impedance been available, and "4-ohm" speakers are a larger percentage of the total speakers available. As far as I'm concerned, any amp that can't drive 4-ohm nominal impedance with grace is unfit for the marketplace, and I expect a 4-ohm rating for the amplifier. Yamaha is not providing an FTC 4-ohm rating--and the "LOW IMPEDANCE" position of the selector switch is recommended for 4-ohm and ABOVE, not 4-ohm and below!

My own primary speakers were rated as 4-ohm nominal when manufactured back in the middle-eighties. They're modified with lower-DC-resistance inductors, and lower-value resistors in the tweeter side of the crossovers, to bring the treble up a bit. I suppose that they are now 2- or 3-ohm speakers, but I have no way to test them.


I only remind you that like all amps, it surely will...depending on the conditions of the test--unless you're suggesting that the amp is under-rated for reasons known only to Yamaha.


Excellent.


I care where a product is made.

1. I despise being forced to buy Communist Chinese products because they--and the Communist Collaborators in this country--have already destroyed any domestic production of a product category. "Made in Malaysia" is actually a step "UP" from Communist China, as far as I'm concerned.

2. I care about environmental impact created by manufacturing--made worse by either the lack of environmental protection regulation in third-world countries; or the lack of enforcement of environmental regulations.

3. I care about the way third-world employees are treated. Slave- and child-labor are improper; but it's a fact of life in some regions. I care about wage scales, I care about worker protection beyond installing suicide nets. Anyone who thinks Lincoln did a good job with the Emancipation Proclamation should be ashamed of the way employees are abused in some foreign lands. Given a choice, I would not support the (mis)use of distressed workers in ANY country--and American workers should not have to compete against distressed workers.

4. If America's economy is in trouble--and it is--sending bales of money to foreign lands is hardly the way to solve our problem. Trade imbalance should be prevented. "Trade" is supposed to work both ways, but it clearly doesn't.

For those reasons, when I have a choice, I would pay extra to buy American, North American, or Free-World products (in that order). If I were Canadian...I'd support Canadian industry.

Political comments aside, the "It doesn't matter where it's made" was referring to relative quality, not "it doesn't matter that it's not made here".

You absolutely can buy equipment made here, in Canada or in other free-World countries.

 

[3db]

I hope your next smart phone will be a Blackberry if not already, instead of Apple or Samsung.

I'm betting dollars to donughts that he's not even aware of the extent of products he's using that are made in China.

 

[3db]

OK, I accept that what I read is a preview. Apparently, the information I consider of "primary" importance isn't a priority to most others.


I have read the article, I still do not understand what the switch does. My own amps do not have selector switches. I've never used an amp with a selector switch. The impression I have is that these products have an impedance selector switch because the amp section is flawed/weak/overly-compromised due to cost constraints, and it's cheaper to install a switch than to build it more robustly and eliminate the need for the switch.

I wouldn't get all hung up on an impedance selector switch. This Yamaha AVR comes with a selector switch just so you know...

http://www.audioholics.com/av-receiver-reviews/rx-a3000/rx-a3000-measurements-cont

The Yamaha RX-A3000 handedly exceeded its 140wpc power rating continuously with two channels driven and stomped out an impressive 236wpc both channels driven into 4 ohms; and that’s a full power bandwidth measurement (20Hz to 20kHz at 0.1% THD + N). It proved to be every bit as powerful as their more expensive RX-Z7 mode. You can see the protection circuit kick on during our ACD tests, purposely limiting power to 65wpc. In short time, there is no doubt in my mind forum lurkers seeing this will pop up on our site or AVS Forum bashing Yamaha, not realizing the design purpose of power limiting a multi channel amplifier in a compact chassis, or the reality that real world program material will never trip this limiter circuitry. Thus we conducted dynamic burst power measurements simulating real world program content. Interestingly enough the RX-A3000 delivered similar dynamic power output ACD into 8 ohm loads and slightly more power two channels driven into 4 ohm loads than the Emotiva UPA-7 dedicated multi-channel power amplifier that is designed to deliver rated power continuously into all channels as can be seen in the comparison table below.
# of CH Test Type Power Load THD + N
2 CFP-BW 140 watts 8-ohms 0.1%
2 CFP-BW 238 watts 4-ohms 0.1%
7 1kHz Psweep 108 watts 8-ohms 0.1%
7 1kHz Psweep 117 watts 8-ohms 1%
2 1kHz Psweep 240 watts 4-ohms 0.1%
2 1kHz Psweep 252 watts 4-ohms 1%
7 Dynamic PWR 156 watts 8-ohms 1%
2 Dynamic PWR 320 watts 4-ohms 1%

Emotiva UPA-7 Power Measurement Table

 

[KEW]

1
Here is a review of the A-S700 with third party measurements.1

http://www.avhub.com.au/product-reviews/hi-fi/yamaha-a-s700-amplifier-review-394235

Follow the test measurement (blue link) near the middle of the text.
It has a thorough discussion (and test measurements) to understand the effect of the switch (which you would never use in any normal world).

 

[Schurkey]

I'm betting dollars to donughts that he's not even aware of the extent of products he's using that are made in China.

If "he" is a reference to me, I'm PAINFULLY aware of the stuff I'm forced to buy from China, along with the products I'd buy but haven't because while I may want them, I refuse to give the Communists access to my dollars for something so frivolous. Do you not remember my previous posting about large swaths of American industry being destroyed--with the jobs and economic power they represent being exported?

A few examples:
The laptop computer I'm typing this on is held together with USA-made duct tape--the hinges are so stiff they've broken the case. Aside from tape, only the wires connect the screen to the lower part of the computer. Sooner or later, I'll have to buy a new computer, and they're all Chinese.

Last weekend, I refused to buy another pair of shoes I like, production has been moved to Viet Nam. My current shoes have mostly-invisible holes at the toes. Still looking for something that will both fit me and isn't made in evil nations, and I hope to find 'em before the holes become obvious.

I wanted one of those video-screen "picture frames"; but until I find something not Communist, I'll do without.

Returning an MSD distributor cap and rotor to Summit--they just sent the UPS return tag to me. MSD shipped production to...guess where?

Returning "Ford style" Standard Motor Products starter solenoids to Amazon; guess why?

I see this every time I go shopping. I am ABSOLUTELY aware of the Communist crap I have to deal with, sometimes because there's no other option. There may be five brands of product, but they're all imported from the most-hateful nations on Earth. We've gotten lucky if they aren't lead-paint and melamine, with anti-freeze for sweetness.

 

[3db]

If "he" is a reference to me, I'm PAINFULLY aware of the stuff I'm forced to buy from China, along with the products I'd buy but haven't because while I may want them, I refuse to give the Communists access to my dollars for something so frivolous. Do you not remember my previous posting about large swaths of American industry being destroyed--with the jobs and economic power they represent being exported?

A few examples:
The laptop computer I'm typing this on is held together with USA-made duct tape--the hinges are so stiff they've broken the case. Aside from tape, only the wires connect the screen to the lower part of the computer. Sooner or later, I'll have to buy a new computer, and they're all Chinese.

Last weekend, I refused to buy another pair of shoes I like, production has been moved to Viet Nam. My current shoes have mostly-invisible holes at the toes. Still looking for something that will both fit me and isn't made in evil nations, and I hope to find 'em before the holes become obvious.

I wanted one of those video-screen "picture frames"; but until I find something not Communist, I'll do without.

Returning an MSD distributor cap and rotor to Summit--they just sent the UPS return tag to me. MSD shipped production to...guess where?

Returning "Ford style" Standard Motor Products starter solenoids to Amazon; guess why?

I see this every time I go shopping. I am ABSOLUTELY aware of the Communist crap I have to deal with, sometimes because there's no other option. There may be five brands of product, but they're all imported from the most-hateful nations on Earth. We've gotten lucky if they aren't lead-paint and melamine, with anti-freeze for sweetness.

Bottom line.. all of this out sourcing is a result of NA corporate greed and shareholder value BS. We did it to ourselves and now we have to sleep in the bed we made.

 

[Jeepers]

A few examples:


Last weekend, I refused to buy another pair of shoes I like, production has been moved to Viet Nam. My current shoes have mostly-invisible holes at the toes. Still looking for something that will both fit me and isn't made in evil nations, and I hope to find 'em before the holes become obvious.

Ever heard of Sebago Docksides ?

 

[gene]

OK, I accept that what I read is a preview. Apparently, the information I consider of "primary" importance isn't a priority to most others.


I have read the article, I still do not understand what the switch does. My own amps do not have selector switches. I've never used an amp with a selector switch. The impression I have is that these products have an impedance selector switch because the amp section is flawed/weak/overly-compromised due to cost constraints, and it's cheaper to install a switch than to build it more robustly and eliminate the need for the switch.

I am not an electrical engineer, but it seems to me that there are at least four ways to implement an "impedance switch". This could range from the ridiculously simple (switching a resistor pair in or out of the two output circuits, limiting current when engaged, but destroying damping factor, and probably increasing noise in the process) or limiting (compressing) the input signal so the amp cannot develop voltage over some threshold. They could switch an output transformer, exchanging voltage for current (Not likely, the transformer would cost more than building the amp with greater current drive) or they could switch the power transformer to a lower voltage, so the power rails feeding the output transistors were lower.

All of these methods except perhaps the last one, would degrade the sound to some extent.

Never in the history of home audio have more speakers rated at 4-ohm (or lower) nominal impedance been available, and "4-ohm" speakers are a larger percentage of the total speakers available. As far as I'm concerned, any amp that can't drive 4-ohm nominal impedance with grace is unfit for the marketplace, and I expect a 4-ohm rating for the amplifier. Yamaha is not providing an FTC 4-ohm rating--and the "LOW IMPEDANCE" position of the selector switch is recommended for 4-ohm and ABOVE, not 4-ohm and below!

My own primary speakers were rated as 4-ohm nominal when manufactured back in the middle-eighties. They're modified with lower-DC-resistance inductors, and lower-value resistors in the tweeter side of the crossovers, to bring the treble up a bit. I suppose that they are now 2- or 3-ohm speakers, but I have no way to test them.


I only remind you that like all amps, it surely will...depending on the conditions of the test--unless you're suggesting that the amp is under-rated for reasons known only to Yamaha.


Excellent.


I care where a product is made.

1. I despise being forced to buy Communist Chinese products because they--and the Communist Collaborators in this country--have already destroyed any domestic production of a product category. "Made in Malaysia" is actually a step "UP" from Communist China, as far as I'm concerned.

2. I care about environmental impact created by manufacturing--made worse by either the lack of environmental protection regulation in third-world countries; or the lack of enforcement of environmental regulations.

3. I care about the way third-world employees are treated. Slave- and child-labor are improper; but it's a fact of life in some regions. I care about wage scales, I care about worker protection beyond installing suicide nets. Anyone who thinks Lincoln did a good job with the Emancipation Proclamation should be ashamed of the way employees are abused in some foreign lands. Given a choice, I would not support the (mis)use of distressed workers in ANY country--and American workers should not have to compete against distressed workers.

4. If America's economy is in trouble--and it is--sending bales of money to foreign lands is hardly the way to solve our problem. Trade imbalance should be prevented. "Trade" is supposed to work both ways, but it clearly doesn't.

For those reasons, when I have a choice, I would pay extra to buy American, North American, or Free-World products (in that order). If I were Canadian...I'd support Canadian industry.

I already linked you a detailed article about how the impedance switch works and why its there.

The Yamaha has NO problems driving 4 ohm speakers other than your distrust based on the misunderstanding of the switch and how Yamaha rates their amplifiers.

Good luck buying a new Phone or HDTV as they are all made overseas.

Yamaha has their own factory in Malaysia. It's not a sweat shop. But if that still bothers you then seek out products made in the USA but also realize even USA made stuff sources parts from China. Inductors and transformers are usually built by underage workers in China for pennies on the dollar. A sad but true reality.