My SVS Ultra is down, again.

[lsiberian]

If you can do try to replace the components. That should be a really cheap fix.
That said I'm not sure going Passive is a real option. That said it might be best if you really push the amp. Does the current amp have any speaker wire hookups? If so we might could use the existing plate and just solder the internal speaker wire to it. Be advised you would need a High Pass Filter!

 

[DTS]

"OK - got it. Contact us at custservice@svsound.com to discuss replacing that amp with a Sledge STA-1000D. I might also be able to get that component value for you - looking into it. It's not SMT so it might be a pretty easy swap out. No guarantees it will fix the amp, but it might be worth a try."



I have already purchased the SLEDGE and it will be here tomorrow. I would be interested in replacement parts (for cheap) for possible resurrection. SMT ??

 

[Adam]

SMT ??

Surface mount technology.

 

[Ed Mullen]

DTS -

The thermistor P/N from the 750W BASH amp platform is AMETHERM - SL15 4R008, and is available from http://www.newark.com/. It's possible a different brand thermistor is present on your particular amp, because our supplier used multiple parts vendors - but the values of the thermistor should be the same. If replacing the thermistor doesn't fix the problem, then I advise against attempting further repairs, as there might be multiple problems with the amp besides the cracked thermistor. Thanks.

 

[DTS]

Thanks for your help.

 

[TLS Guy]

DTS -

The thermistor P/N from the 750W BASH amp platform is AMETHERM - SL15 4R008, and is available from http://www.newark.com/. It's possible a different brand thermistor is present on your particular amp, because our supplier used multiple parts vendors - but the values of the thermistor should be the same. If replacing the thermistor doesn't fix the problem, then I advise against attempting further repairs, as there might be multiple problems with the amp besides the cracked thermistor. Thanks.

That thermistor burning out, is very unlikely to be the primary problem. It most likely blew to prevent a large DC off set that would have caused the sub driver to literally catch fire. Most likely the output devices are blown.

Since you have had multiple failures, there a a couple of possibilities you need to consider.

1). SVS used too low an impedance driver for that amp.

2). You have over loaded the driver and have a partially burned out voice coil, with shorted voice coil turns, causing the impedance of your driver to drop and loose some output.

Before you instal any new amp, measure the DC resistance of the driver and check with SVS that it is correct, and not reduced in value.

 

[DTS]

Got the new amp on Tuesday, installed yesterday and its been 'DARLA' tested and approved

 

[GlocksRock]

Can you tell an initial difference between the BASH and the Sledge?

 

[DTS]

Not yet, Haven't had a chance to mess with to much. Should I expect to hear some? Going to post a photo of my settings, they might need tweaked some.

 

[DTS]

Guess I will continue posting here, here are the settings that were done by Audyssey, SVS suggest using 60 hz on all speakers, should I bumped them up? Guess I'll mess with. New amp is running at the default -20.

 

[timoteo]

Looks pretty good as far as your speaker volume settings.

But I would bump your crossover settings up a bit. I don't like to go any lower than 60hz myself. Between 60-120hz is my preferable range. Obviously set them to what sounds best to you but you may find a mix that's better than 40-50hz.

Try this:
Mains: 60hz
Center: 80hz
Height/Surrounds: 90hz

Remember that the crossover hz is not a brick wall. The hz you choose is where it STARTS to roll off. If you have a speaker crossed at 40hz you still get frequencies as low as 20hz reaching them. Yes it will be a lot quiter than the 40hz tone, but if you listen at high volumes you can risk overdriving a small speaker (6.5" or smaller). I believe most receivers have a 24dB per octave roll off.

If your heights /surrounds have smaller drivers like 5.25" then typically an 80-90hz crossover works well. This will lower your distortion, allow high master volumes, protect the drivers & let your sub handle the mid-bass better. I personally use the crossover settings I listed above & all the drivers in my system are 6.5" (except for the tweeters & subs of course!) Every system is different but 40hz seems a bit low for those JBLs.

 

[jinjuku]

I hope you heeded TLSGuys advice and measured the Voice Coil(s) on the driver.

 

[nezff]

bump everything to 80hz

 

[flyboylr45]

I know this is an old thread, but my PB13's BASH amp just died. Got offered the same deal of $399 for the new Sledge amp. Kind of upset that this amp only lasted 5 years.

 

[DTS]

The SLEDGE hasnt missed a beat since installing.

 

[flyboylr45]

Did you try to replace the thermistor? Is it even worth it?

 

[djreef]

I'm wondering if they have the Sledge upgrade option for the OG SB-12s. I'd dig into that if so.

DJ

 

[DTS]

I got one (thermistor), it and the old amp is stashed away somewhere, never installed, or even tried to.

 

[flyboylr45]

I just pulled out the amp and couldn't find anything that looked burned or shorted....... Any ideas before I order the new amp? I really don't want to listen to ADTG and order two Funk 18s and a pair of Crown amps for my music room and then bring down both SB13 Ultras.

 

[AcuDefTechGuy]

I know this is an old thread, but my PB13's BASH amp just died. Got offered the same deal of $399 for the new Sledge amp. Kind of upset that this amp only lasted 5 years.

Damn built-in amps.

Next time keep in mind for passive subs so you can use your own amps.

They don't stuff amps inside pre-pros and they don't need to stuff amps inside subs either.

I think McIntosh amps work great for subs.