$15000 budget for 7 speakers and separates

[uaeproz]

How much did those Yamaha speakers cost you?

Honestly, I wouldn't buy Yamaha speakers, but that's jut me.

About $6000

 

[uaeproz]

I'm moving in 3-4 weeks to a new place. I've attached pictures of the room where the system will be installed. It's a big area with really high sealing. Don't know how high the sealing is.


View attachment 13741

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[BoredSysAdmin]

Not everyone would like such apartment, but I do - Looks very nice and at the same time looks like total nightmare to achieve great sound - aka lots and lots of hard reflecting surfaces..
What ever speakers you buy - don't place them near walls/windows , allow at least a meter distance.
It might be worth for you to try to find local acoustic treatment specialist to help integrate your new sound system into your space

I would take ADTG recommendation very seriously -
a) since RBH is very highly regarded brand
b) ADTG had vast collection of amazing speakers which he sold all of them to get his current RBH
c) You would need best in call Room EQ system like Mid/top range Denon has

 

[AcuDefTechGuy]

Yeah, the vast area of reflective surfaces (windows and shiny tiles) will make this room challenging for sure.

It reminds me of many retail stores where many of us have auditioned speakers in the past. The speakers just didn't sound as good in these stores compared to the home environment. At home most of us have natural "acoustic treatments" with carpets, rugs, curtains, drapes, sofas, pillows. But you might need some help with that room.

 

[ImcLoud]

Rugs and curtains can make that room stable..

 

[uaeproz]

I ordered the ATI3007 as recommended by AcuDefTechGuy.
I've emailed RBH few days back but no response from them.
I'm looking at XTZ speakers as recommended by crossedover. Got this setup in my mind:
- 2X XTZ Divine 100.49 for LR
- 5x XTZ Divine 100.33 Center, back and surrounds
- Room Analyzer II Pro.

XTZ have responded to every question I had and every email so promptly. They were very detailed in their responses. I like this kind of Customer Service. ATI did as well.

 

[AcuDefTechGuy]

I ordered the ATI3007 as recommended by AcuDefTechGuy.
I've emailed RBH few days back but no response from them.
I'm looking at XTZ speakers as recommended by crossedover. Got this setup in my mind:
- 2X XTZ Divine 100.49 for LR
- 5x XTZ Divine 100.33 Center, back and surrounds
- Room Analyzer II Pro.

XTZ have responded to every question I had and every email so promptly. They were very detailed in their responses. I like this kind of Customer Service. ATI did as well.

The ATI AT3007 amp is a total elegant beast. I hope you are up to lifting about 110lbs of monster metal.

RBH is similar to ATI in a lot of ways. Both make their products in the USA and both have been around for like 30 years. RBH started out making speakers for other companies (like ATI makes amps for other companies). RBH has a lot of lines ranging from affordable yet great speakers (EMP) to their $50,000 flagship Status Acoustics 8T loudspeakers.

Unfortunately, RBH are extremely busy right now. They have a lot of current lines and are introducing new lines.

I just ordered 5 RBH SX-T2/R towers from them. But I probably won't even get them until 8 weeks later because they are so busy.

So if you want something more expedient, you might ask for speakers they already have in stock and ready to ship.

Of course, there are 100 other speaker brands out there, like XTZ, Revel, KEF, NHT, etc.

 

[uaeproz]

Ok, here's an update, so far I ordered:
- 2x XTZ Divine 100.49 for LR.
- 5x XTZ Divine 100.33 for the Center, Surround and back.
- 5x XTZ floor stands for the Divine 100.33.
- 1x XTZ Room Analyzer II Pro.
- 2x SVS BP13-ultra subwoofers.
- 1x ATI AT3007 power amp.

I looking at Marantz AV8801. Is there any better preamp AV processor than this?

I'm also thinking to order 1x DBX Crossover Model 234xs. This is to tri-amp the fronts. Is there any options that I need to look at other than this? However, if I order this crossover, I will need order another amp to power the surround and back speakers.

My budget have significantly gone up. This is scary lol.

 

[crossedover]

nice choices! you can always hold off on the activr crossover to see if you like the sound of the passive. If your not use to setting one up , it can be daunting at first.

 

[uaeproz]

nice choices! you can always hold off on the activr crossover to see if you like the sound of the passive. If your not use to setting one up , it can be daunting at first.

I'm planning to order the crossover and see if it worth ordering another amp for the rest of speakers.

 

[uaeproz]

Update

Ok, here's an update, so far I ordered:
- 2x XTZ Divine 100.49 for LR.
- 5x XTZ Divine 100.33 for the Center, Surround and back.
- 5x XTZ floor stands for the Divine 100.33.
- 1x XTZ Room Analyzer II Pro.
- 2x SVS BP13-ultra subwoofers.
- 1x ATI AT3007 power amp.

I looking at Marantz AV8801. Is there any better preamp AV processor than this?

I'm also thinking to order 1x DBX Crossover Model 234xs. This is to tri-amp the fronts. Is there any options that I need to look at other than this? However, if I order this crossover, I will need order another amp to power the surround and back speakers.

My budget have significantly gone up. This is scary lol.

Here is my update, I ordered so far:

- 2x XTZ Divine 100.49 for LR.
- 5x XTZ Divine 100.33 for the Center, Surround and back.
- 5x XTZ floor stands for the Divine 100.33.
- 1x XTZ Room Analyzer II Pro.
- 2x SVS PB13-ultra subwoofers (received).
- 1x ATI AT3007 power amp.
- 1x RANE AC 23S crossover (received).

I'm looking for Class A amps for the:
- Tweeter: RMS: 80w @8 ohms
- Midrange: RMS: 120w @8 ohms

Class AB amp for the:
- Woofer: 125w @8 ohms (I can use 2 remaining channels from the AT3007 but I'm not sure if this is wise or not cause its 300w RMS??).

Any suggestions for amps?

 

[walter duque]

Here is my update, I ordered so far:

- 2x XTZ Divine 100.49 for LR.
- 5x XTZ Divine 100.33 for the Center, Surround and back.
- 5x XTZ floor stands for the Divine 100.33.
- 1x XTZ Room Analyzer II Pro.
- 2x SVS PB13-ultra subwoofers (received).
- 1x ATI AT3007 power amp.
- 1x RANE AC 23S crossover (received).

I'm looking for Class A amps for the:
- Tweeter: RMS: 80w @8 ohms
- Midrange: RMS: 120w @8 ohms

Class AB amp for the:
- Woofer: 125w @8 ohms (I can use 2 remaining channels from the AT3007 but I'm not sure if this is wise or not cause its 300w RMS??).

Any suggestions for amps?

I would go a lot higher on the power amps. I got mine bi-amped with 350w @ 8 ohms 500w @ 4 ohms (they can take 1000 watts+ (each module), but for now that's all I've got. For the woofers 300 watts should do it.

 

[AcuDefTechGuy]

I'm looking for Class A amps for the:
- Tweeter: RMS: 80w @8 ohms
- Midrange: RMS: 120w @8 ohms
Class AB amp for the:
- Woofer: 125w @8 ohms (I can use 2 remaining channels from the AT3007 but I'm not sure if this is wise or not cause its 300w RMS??).

Why would you need class A for tweeter & midrange, but class AB for woofer?

It doesn't matter if it is class A or AB.

I would recommend ATI amps for all your needs:

AT1202 = 120WPC x 2CH into 8 ohms @ 0.03% THD
AT6012 = 60WPC x 12CH into 8 ohms @ 0.03% THD
AT602 = 60WPC x 2CH into 8 ohms @ 0.03% THD

Not much difference between 60W vs 80W. The AT600 amps output 85W into 8 ohms at 1% THD.

I own the Linkwitz Orion 3.2.1. It is an active tower speaker. Each speaker requires 4Ch of amps. So I have the ATI AT6012 amp driving all drivers.

One thing to keep in mind is that Active speakers are not like passive speakers when it comes to power. You do NOT want to drive your active speakers with more than what is recommended because active speakers are a lot more prone to be damaged by too much power!

 

[AcuDefTechGuy]

I would go a lot higher on the power amps. I got mine bi-amped with 350w @ 8 ohms 500w @ 4 ohms (they can take 1000 watts+ (each module), but for now that's all I've got. For the woofers 300 watts should do it.

Probably okay if your speakers are PASSIVE.

But for ACTIVE speakers, you don't want to go too far beyond the max rated power.

The Woofer can handle more power than the tweeter and midrange for sure. But you still don't want to go too far pass the limit for active drivers.

 

[walter duque]

Probably okay if your speakers are PASSIVE.

But for ACTIVE speakers, you don't want to go too far beyond the max rated power.

The Woofer can handle more power than the tweeter and midrange for sure. But you still don't want to go too far pass the limit for active drivers.

My mains are passive tower modules as you know. Active speakers you don't need a power amp at all, just a pre-amp signal. Maybe I am a little mixed up here.

 

[RichB]

^^^
I believe that they are referring to the crossovers.

Passive bi-amp - crossovers are after the amp.
Active crossovers - crossovers are before the amps directly connected to the drivers.

- Rich

 

[uaeproz]

Why would you need class A for tweeter & midrange, but class AB for woofer?

It doesn't matter if it is class A or AB.

I would recommend ATI amps for all your needs:

AT1202 = 120WPC x 2CH into 8 ohms @ 0.03% THD
AT6012 = 60WPC x 12CH into 8 ohms @ 0.03% THD
AT602 = 60WPC x 2CH into 8 ohms @ 0.03% THD

Not much difference between 60W vs 80W. The AT600 amps output 85W into 8 ohms at 1% THD.

I own the Linkwitz Orion 3.2.1. It is an active tower speaker. Each speaker requires 4Ch of amps. So I have the ATI AT6012 amp driving all drivers.

One thing to keep in mind is that Active speakers are not like passive speakers when it comes to power. You do NOT want to drive your active speakers with more than what is recommended because active speakers are a lot more prone to be damaged by too much power!

I thought Class A amps are much clearer and more appropriate for tweeter/midrange but not necessarily for woofer where you don't need that much of clarity. Right?

I understand that I shouldn't drive the drivers more than the manufacturer power ratings when it comes to active amping and that is my concern with the woofer connected to AT3007. But what if I reduced the dB gain on the active crossover? will that protect it or reduce the wattage going to it? If yes, do you know how much dB gain should I reduce?

I was thinking if I'm going to go with Class AB for Tweeters + Mids, I was going for 1 AT1804 4ch amp instead of ordering 2 amps. And to reduce the wattage going to those drivers, by reducing the dB gain, will that work? If yes, do you know how much dB should I reduce?

 

[AcuDefTechGuy]

My mains are passive tower modules as you know. Active speakers you don't need a power amp at all, just a pre-amp signal. Maybe I am a little mixed up here.

Yeah, the word "active" can be misleading.

Like Rich says, "Active" refers to the crossover or "system. An "active" speaker does not need to have an amp inside it. For example, the Linkwitz Orion is an active speaker, but both the crossover and amps are external (each speaker requires 4 external amps).

A "powered" loudspeaker does in fact have at least one internal amp. But NOT all "powered" speakers are 100% active.

For example, some "powered" speakers have one amp just for the active woofer, but the midrange and tweeter are passive.

Confusing as hell, isn't it?

 

[uaeproz]

My mains are passive tower modules as you know. Active speakers you don't need a power amp at all, just a pre-amp signal. Maybe I am a little mixed up here.

You will need the signal from the pre connected to the active crossover to split the signals. Then to the amplifier and from the amplifiers to the speakers.

View attachment 13853

 

[AcuDefTechGuy]

I thought Class A amps are much clearer and more appropriate for tweeter/midrange but not necessarily for woofer where you don't need that much of clarity. Right?

Oh, no. Who misinformed you of that?

No, no, no, no! It absolutely does not matter if your amp is class A or class AB; they will sound equally great.

I think you should check out The Audio Critic at least just briefly.

Briefly read some of the articles on Amps, preamps, wires, etc.

The Audio Critic