SVS PB-13 Ultra vs JTR Captivator 2400 (with amp)

[jasonr93]

Hello,
I couldn't seem to find a thread dedicated on these 2 subs. So simply put, first I would like to know everyones opinions on the performance difference of these two subs. Secondly, is the price difference between the 2 worth it in your opinion? Thanks in advance.

Prices:
PB-13 Ultra $2000
JTR Captivator 2400 $2600

 

[shadyJ]

While there have been no serious third party measurements, supposedly the Captivator has multiple time the power of the PB13. The specs certainly suggest it. I think the price difference is well worth it. Those who have heard both will say the Captivator is far more powerful. One forum goer on AVSforum, Archaea, had duel PC13 Ultras, and replaced them with a single Captivator, and has said the Captivator is a lot more powerful.

 

[PENG]

While there have been no serious third party measurements, supposedly the Captivator has multiple time the power of the PB13. The specs certainly suggest it. I think the price difference is well worth it. Those who have heard both will say the Captivator is far more powerful. One forum goer on AVSforum, Archaea, had duel PC13 Ultras, and replaced them with a single Captivator, and has said the Captivator is a lot more powerful.

I couldn't find much info about it either except for what's on their own website. They say 2400 W rms, i.e. average power technically speaking, and that means one should get the 240V version to benefit from it. There isn't enough detail to even predict how much more powerful they really are on the test bench. The PB specs say 1000 W rms 3600W dynamic peak so yes the JTR would appear to be more powerful just how much more (what is the real "multiple"?) is unknown. Regardless, how much you need and how much you can suck from your outlet that has to be considered otherwise the excess may go to waste. Base on look, I much prefer SVS but YMMV and that's just one factor. At that price point, Funk would seem like a better choice.

 

[BoredSysAdmin]

Pair of these bad boys and their branded Chane 3600 amp and you'll have all the bass you could crave and still lots of moneys saved in your wallet
Chase Home Theater VS-18.1 Passive 18" Subwoofer

Check data bass for measurements

 

[billy p]

I couldn't find much info about it either except for what's on their own website. They say 2400 W rms, i.e. average power technically speaking, and that means one should get the 240V version to benefit from it. There isn't enough detail to even predict how much more powerful they really are on the test bench. The PB specs say 1000 W rms 3600W dynamic peak so yes the JTR would appear to be more powerful just how much more (what is the real "multiple"?) is unknown. Regardless, how much you need and how much you can suck from your outlet that has to be considered otherwise the excess may go to waste. Base on look, I much prefer SVS but YMMV and that's just one factor. At that price point, Funk would seem like a better choice.

Agreed...ShadyJ lives vicariously mostly through the eyes and ears of others. I am pretty sure if Svs built or designed a 18" driver/sub it would equal or likely even surpass the Cap...I personally place aesthetics on the same level as performance and would take a PB13U or FA ahead of any JTR products. I mean who cant build a huge driver and box and get crazy SPL and extension...just go DIY.

 

[shadyJ]

I couldn't find much info about it either except for what's on their own website. They say 2400 W rms, i.e. average power technically speaking, and that means one should get the 240V version to benefit from it. There isn't enough detail to even predict how much more powerful they really are on the test bench. The PB specs say 1000 W rms 3600W dynamic peak so yes the JTR would appear to be more powerful just how much more (what is the real "multiple"?) is unknown. Regardless, how much you need and how much you can suck from your outlet that has to be considered otherwise the excess may go to waste. Base on look, I much prefer SVS but YMMV and that's just one factor. At that price point, Funk would seem like a better choice.

I'm not even talking about wattage, I am talking about SPL. The Cap is a 30 mm xmax 18" driver in a huge ported cabinet powered by 2.4 kW amp, and from that alone you would need a bunch of PB13 Ultras to match it, on paper at least. And also according to those who have heard both. The OP specifically asked about the performance difference, and there is no doubt the cap will have a large performance advantage.

 

[its phillip]

I also believe the JTR will have significantly more output than the SVS.

I'd love to see them tested on data-bass of course.

 

[AcuDefTechGuy]

I couldn't find much info about it either except for what's on their own website. They say 2400 W rms, i.e. average power technically speaking, and that means one should get the 240V version to benefit from it. There isn't enough detail to even predict how much more powerful they really are on the test bench. The PB specs say 1000 W rms 3600W dynamic peak so yes the JTR would appear to be more powerful just how much more (what is the real "multiple"?) is unknown. Regardless, how much you need and how much you can suck from your outlet that has to be considered otherwise the excess may go to waste. Base on look, I much prefer SVS but YMMV and that's just one factor. At that price point, Funk would seem like a better choice.

I would personally get the Funk 18.0 passive.

I really don't understand the obsession with "2,000W-4,000W" power and "130dB" output when most rooms are SMALLER than 20' x 20' x 10'.

My family room is 18' x 20' x 12', but really wide open to the dining room, kitchen, and formal living room. Some people would consider it one huge open space. And I just don't see the need for all that power and output.

I guess it's just in case you buy a 4,000 S.F. house with a room that is actually bigger than 20' x 20' x 10'?

 

[AcuDefTechGuy]

Hello,
I couldn't seem to find a thread dedicated on these 2 subs. So simply put, first I would like to know everyones opinions on the performance difference of these two subs. Secondly, is the price difference between the 2 worth it in your opinion? Thanks in advance.

Prices:
PB-13 Ultra $2000
JTR Captivator 2400 $2600

Just curious. How big is your room?

 

[its phillip]

I would personally get the Funk 18.0 passive.

I really don't understand the obsession with "2,000W-4,000W" power and "130dB" output when most rooms are SMALLER than 20' x 20' x 10'.

My family room is 18' x 20' x 12', but really wide open to the dining room, kitchen, and formal living room. Some people would consider it one huge open space. And I just don't see the need for all that power and output.

I guess it's just in case you buy a 4,000 S.F. house with a room that is actually bigger than 20' x 20' x 10'?

Different strokes for different folks. Just because you don't want 130 dB doesn't mean somebody else doesn't.

 

[AcuDefTechGuy]

Different strokes for different folks. Just because you don't want 130 dB doesn't mean somebody else doesn't.

True. I guess there is a difference between "want" and "need".

Just because they don't "need", doesn't mean they don't "want".

It's the same way with amp power. Want vs. need.

Everyone has a different perspective.

Oh what the hell am I saying?

I'm about to get five RBH SX-T2P/R towers. Like I "need" it.

Don't mind me, guys, it's part of my mercuric mood swings.

 

[jasonr93]

I couldn't find much info about it either except for what's on their own website. They say 2400 W rms, i.e. average power technically speaking, and that means one should get the 240V version to benefit from it. There isn't enough detail to even predict how much more powerful they really are on the test bench. The PB specs say 1000 W rms 3600W dynamic peak so yes the JTR would appear to be more powerful just how much more (what is the real "multiple"?) is unknown. Regardless, how much you need and how much you can suck from your outlet that has to be considered otherwise the excess may go to waste. Base on look, I much prefer SVS but YMMV and that's just one factor. At that price point, Funk would seem like a better choice.

How would having the 240v give more performance than the 120v? Just curious, thanks.

 

[shadyJ]

For a 2.4 kW amp, I don't think you will see much benefit from a 240v line. It it was 4 or 6 kW, maybe.

 

[PENG]

How would having the 240v give more performance than the 120v? Just curious, thanks.

Their specs say 2400W RMS, that really means 2400W average. A 120V 15A outlet is rated for 1800VA maximum, and assuming a power factor of 0.8 typical for an inductive load such as a subwoofer, 1800VA=1440W. So to really deliver 2400W easily, the 240V option should help, as 240VX15A=3600VA= approx. 2880W base on p.f.=0.8 (again, that's just typ/educated guess).

Remember, you really don't want your load to draw near the limit of an outlet anyway, always good to have some reserve.

Of course all these matters not if you are using no where near the capability of the unit, but then if you don't then there isn't benefit to go for such a powerful unit, so your call, I am simply doing the math for you.

 

[jasonr93]

Their specs say 2400W RMS, that really means 2400W average. A 120V 15A outlet is rated for 1800VA maximum, and assuming a power factor of 0.8 typical for an inductive load such as a subwoofer, 1800VA=1440W. So to really deliver 2400W easily, the 240V option should help, as 240VX15A=3600VA= approx. 2880W base on p.f.=0.8 (again, that's just typ/educated guess).

Remember, you really don't want your load to draw near the limit of an outlet anyway, always good to have some reserve.

Of course all these matters not if you are using no where near the capability of the unit, but then if you don't then there isn't benefit to go for such a powerful unit, so your call, I am simply doing the math for you.

I appreciate you doing that math for me, although i do have another question about that^. If the socket from the wall is 120v then having the 240v from the amp wouldn't be doing anything would it? Thanks for your help.

 

[jasonr93]

For everyone who says that the JTR Captivator 2400 has better performance, is that based on the wattage difference of the 2 subs(JTR=2400w, SVS=1000w)? I haven't found any tests or graphs on the JTR to compare it to the SVS, such as FR, THD for example. I know on Data-Bass that the svs has its data and graphs so i know by that it is reputable. But for the JTR, i didn't know if you were basing the performance level on the info given such as wattage, plus word of mouth that it is a better sub over SVS.

 

[shadyJ]

It's not wattage so much as other parameters. First of all, the woofer of the Captivator has nearly twice the area of the PB13. Second, the Captivator has a huge cabinet and large vents which provides for a great deal of efficiency, if not WAF. This all adds up to a lot more air displacement, and more displacement means more SPL. Certainly the extra wattage of the amp doesn't hurt though. By the way, you could save some money by getting a passive Captivator and providing your own amp. A passive Cap and a Behringer iNuke can save you a few hundred dollars.

 

[PENG]

For everyone who says that the JTR Captivator 2400 has better performance, is that based on the wattage difference of the 2 subs(JTR=2400w, SVS=1000w)? I haven't found any tests or graphs on the JTR to compare it to the SVS, such as FR, THD for example. I know on Data-Bass that the svs has its data and graphs so i know by that it is reputable. But for the JTR, i didn't know if you were basing the performance level on the info given such as wattage, plus word of mouth that it is a better sub over SVS.

I think you got it figured out yourself.. I should add that there are other things to consider besides output, such as frequency response, port noise, distortions, transient response etc., i.e. sound quality.

 

[PENG]

I appreciate you doing that math for me, although i do have another question about that^. If the socket from the wall is 120v then having the 240v from the amp wouldn't be doing anything would it? Thanks for your help.

That is correct, to draw 2400W of average power from the outlet you will overload a typical home's 120V 15A outlet even if that outlet is fed from a dedicated circuit. A 20A outlet, again from a dedicated circuit will get you much closer. To get the full potential/benefits, 240V is the way to go as long as the amp/sub is design for 240V 15A (or higher) but obviously you have to plug the amp/sub into a 240V outlet. In fact, a 120V plug will not even fit into a 240V outlet. If that sub is rated for 240V, make sure it comes with a proper cord for it and that you have an available 240V outlet.

IMO I believe those so called 2400W RMS ratings are mostly (there are always exceptions) marketing gimmicks. They can technically speaking get away with such claims by narrowing defining the conditions for those ratings, and don't even have to worry about having to explain, as few people would challenge them anyway.

 

[its phillip]

If you are curious about the amps, you can check out their website here: SpeakerPower - Home