Want to add dedicated circuit in wall. Any suggestions? Line conditioners?

[bushido]

I want to add a dedicated circuit in my home for the audio equipment. (I am contractor, will have my electrician with me).

Normally, a 20amp circuit would be the largest non-specific circuit we've introduced for residential applications. Would 30amp be overkill for this particular plug? Perhaps 2, 20-amps? 3?

Would a GFIC breaker be preferred? AFCI? (arc fault, bedroom circuits by current code)

Anyone used Shunyata plugs? http://www.shunyata.com/index.php/accessories-footer/130-srz1-outlets

The circuit would be grounded...should it be independently grounded? ie, not tied into home ground?

The term "line conditioner" came into my lexicon only last week, and I am learning about those too...any input about them would be welcome in this thread.

If this is entirely unnecessary, and can live with the existing 15amp circuit, enhanced with a line conditioner, feel free to save me the time and $$ of this endeavor.

I remain,

Indebted to you all.

Onward and upward
Puff

 

[JohnnieB]

I should think the only time you need a dedicated 20A circuit is if you have a power amp big enough to require one. Look in the owners manual of your gear and see what it recommends. GFCI is probably overkill. Since you are going to have an electrician on hand, I would make sure the circuit you are going to run on is not tied in with an allready overused circuit. You do not need a separate ground either. Your outlet should be grounded of course, with the entire system. Your house electrical should be grounded outside, your electrician should know what code is in your area. It's always a good idea to make sure the house grounds are in good shape on a regular basis, yearly.

As far as line conditioners go. If you live in an area prone to brownouts or voltage spikes, then I would consider a line conditiner. A quality surge protector IS however recommended. API, Surgex are two brands that come to mind. If you have a sub on a separate outlet, don't forget a surge protector for that as well.

The Shunyata outlets look good as well. They are built by Hubbell, which I recently found out from a forum member, are an excellent quality manufacturer.

 

[PENG]

I have my 7.1 plus 3 more subs and a two channel system in one room and I know a couple of 15A cct would be plenty but I added two 20A cct just to overkill. It really depend on what you are going to have in your system but unless your room is really huge, two 20A cct should be plenty.

GFCI is always good to have but only required by code in certain rooms such as washrooms, outdoor receptacles and kitchen so for an audio room it it your choice. AFCI is also not needed in an audio/HT room unless it is also a bedroom. If at all possible I would avoid having AFCI for audio equipment in case of potential interference or nuissance tripping.

 

[ImcLoud]

I wouldn't run a 30a circuit, that could be dangerous...

If you want to go over kill, run 12-3 romex and use 2-15amp breakers {on the same bar, cant mix bars because that could result in 220v}... so then run a double box and use the common neutral for both the red and black L1's. In other words you will have a separate 15a circuit for each plug, then use gfi's if you like, but since your equipment is not rated to pull more than 15a I wouldnt bother with a larger breaker, larger wire never hurt no one though, hence the 12ga vs the code for 15a which is 14ga...

Now for my systems, I ran 220v services to each of my amps, because they can be switched to be either or... No real difference though, but I would probably do it again..

 

[Irvrobinson]

I wouldn't run a 30a circuit, that could be dangerous...

You're back? Or did someone steal your identity?

 

[ImcLoud]

You're back? Or did someone steal your identity?

Hey Irv, I have been stopping in for a week or so now. I probably won't invest as much time as I used to but if there is a question I can help with, I will...

This poster thinking about a 30a 120v circuit inside his home is not a great idea, he would have to run 10ga wire, a a 30amp twist lock outlet {which would be tough to find a way to plug in a std 120v plug} and then since the units are not built for 30amps you run the risk of a fire since the units wire could catch on fire and not present a 30 plus amp load to the breaker meaning it will stay live and keep burning...

I wouldn't run anymore than 15 {20 would pass code but not a great idea for a single device unless it is made for 20a like a kitchen microwave or refrigerator}... If he wants to go a little over kill there is nothing wrong with running a 15a breaker with the 20a romex {yellow sheath}, and if he is worried about the amp pulling too much of a load, running 12-3 will allow him to isolate and give the amp a separate breaker over the rest of the system in one cable...

Like I said I ran 220 to the amp in my music only system and 220 to the 1000w amp in my HT system, I can switch back and forth and notice no difference, but they may use less energy? Or it may be identical results, I do think it runs a little cooler, but they dont run hot with 120 either....

Honestly the money, time, and energy would be better spent on an upgrade somewhere or some more media, unless there is a current {pun intended} issue with the line servicing that part of his home and it needs to be replaced anyway.... If thats the case the sound difference between going with a basic minimum standard code passing circuit and going over board with over sized wire, GFI's, separate circuits, ect is most likely not going to be audible, sure it could get a placebo result, but in the real world, I don't see it happening, or hear it rather...

WOW you guys must really miss my posts around here, what would you have done with that 5 minutes with out me... lol

 

[bushido]

Thanks Gents...what do people do in a parlor?

I've heard folks insist on line conditioners, and know guys who've spent upwards of $1000 on them...then again, they have $6000 in speaker wire...zall relative I suppose.

I'll run a few 20 amp circuits with the Shunyata plugs and a surge protector breakers. I have basement access so it will be a breeze (which, after saying this has likely jinxed the project such that it will take twice as long and cost 3 times as much...)

Onward and upward

 

[Irvrobinson]

Thanks Gents...what do people do in a parlor?

I've heard folks insist on line conditioners, and know guys who've spent upwards of $1000 on them...then again, they have $6000 in speaker wire...zall relative I suppose.

I'll run a few 20 amp circuits with the Shunyata plugs and a surge protector breakers. I have basement access so it will be a breeze (which, after saying this has likely jinxed the project such that it will take twice as long and cost 3 times as much...)

Onward and upward

Lose the Shunyata plugs. Really. The plugs you get at Home Depot work just as well.

 

[Nestor]

Lose the Shunyata plugs. Really. They're a scam. The plugs you get at Home Depot work just as well.

^^^^This.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[ARES24]

I think that running heavier wire is overkill. 14/2 wire is now rated to carry up to 25 amps, inspectors won't like it but you can show them the code book! (at least in Canada and Europe, not sure about all states) Unless you are powering a staggering system keep it simple, one 20A or 2 - 15A.

Standard plugs work just as well as fancier ones, unless someone is playing with them.

Power conditioners might be required if the power in your house is 'dirty'

 

[bushido]

Shunyata could be a waste of $$ as you advise. Thanks. Indeed the Home Depot does sell a higher grade, commercial plug that is a bit move heavy duty that the ones that cost pennies.

 

[j_garcia]

What is your gear? I run quite a bit of gear in two homes on 15A circuits too. Unless you're exceeding the 15A, I don't see the point of this exercise? If you are exceeding, then 20A should solve it. I'd replace the plug receptacles with new ones, but heavy duty even is probably overkill.

 

[Speedskater]

I think that running heavier wire is overkill.

If you are going to the effort to run a new circuit, then oversize wire is always a good idea!

14/2 wire is now rated to carry up to 25 amps, inspectors won't like it but you can show them the code book! (at least in Canada and Europe, not sure about all states)

This is Wrong! 14AWG is only rated to carry 15 Amps continuous current! (there is an industrial loophole, that none of us will ever see). They don't use AWG wire sizing in Europe.

Unless you are powering a staggering system keep it simple, one 20A or 2 - 15A.

Very true! Most home hi-fi systems will do just fine on one 120V, 20Amp circuit.

Standard plugs work just as well as fancier ones, unless someone is playing with them.

Correct. Top shelf plugs & receptacle's are what you need.

Power conditioners might be required if the power in your house is 'dirty'

Power conditioners are way overrated by audiophiles, they seldom bring anything good to the party.

 

[Rickster71]

I think that running heavier wire is overkill. 14/2 wire is now rated to carry up to 25 amps, inspectors won't like it but you can show them the code book!

Sure, inspectors just love it when people tell them how to do their job.

 

[Rickster71]

The first thing you want to determine is the load.
Let your electrician see what you've got, and combine with your future plans to expand. He'll then determine number of circuits and ampacity. No speculating, no guessing. It's all math.

You don't need GFI's or arc faults there. Some states over ruled the NEC and don't require arc faults, too many nuisance trips.
Shunyata receptacles are a waste of money and a gimmick.

Unless you have some ground related noise, an isolated ground isn't needed.

I want to add a dedicated circuit in my home for the audio equipment. (I am contractor, will have my electrician with me).

Normally, a 20amp circuit would be the largest non-specific circuit we've introduced for residential applications. Would 30amp be overkill for this particular plug? Perhaps 2, 20-amps? 3?

Would a GFIC breaker be preferred? AFCI? (arc fault, bedroom circuits by current code)

Anyone used Shunyata plugs? SR-Z1 OUTLETS

The circuit would be grounded...should it be independently grounded? ie, not tied into home ground?

The term "line conditioner" came into my lexicon only last week, and I am learning about those too...any input about them would be welcome in this thread.

If this is entirely unnecessary, and can live with the existing 15amp circuit, enhanced with a line conditioner, feel free to save me the time and $$ of this endeavor.

I remain,

Indebted to you all.

Onward and upward
Puff

 

[ChGr]

The first thing you want to determine is the load.
Let your electrician see what you've got, and combine with your future plans to expand. He'll then determine number of circuits and ampacity. No speculating, no guessing. It's all math.

You don't need GFI's or arc faults there. Some states over ruled the NEC and don't require arc faults, too many nuisance trips.
Shunyata receptacles are a waste of money and a gimmick.

Unless you have some ground related noise, an isolated ground isn't needed.

I'm going to dredge up an old thread - same topic.

Just installing a HT setup. Aside from the peripherals which draw next to nothing I've installed an ATI 6006, ATI 6007 and two JLA Fathom F113s. Two 15 amp circuits and I've balanced them, i.e. one of the 6006 power cords to Circuit A, one to Circuit B and vice-versa, and the JLAs - one to A and the other to B.

I'm concerned that the 15 amp circuits would trip so I bought a line splitter and took readings while running the system 'vigorously' with a 9-speaker setup. The reading read 'overload', indicating that it was over 15 amps. As I moved the splitter around to try to neck down where the draw was the most it seemed as though it was the subs drawing the most current (naturally when playing strong material) but the amps (which say 2,400 watts on the plate) didn't draw that much. Everything played clean and no circuit tripping. As an aside, the amps didn't draw that much probably because they were playing a 9-speaker surround-type output - the surround speakers weren't working much. I'm also going to run it with full-range speakers with the main source and Zones 2 and 3 running and see if that taxes the amps.

All said, I'm strongly considering running a couple 20 amp circuits for this based on the 'overload' reading. Thoughts on this? Thanks.

 

[ChGr]

Just found this thread, as well. Looks like the consensus is use 20 if possible:

http://forums.audioholics.com/forums/threads/15-amp-or-20-amp-electrical-circuit-line.70305/#post-1189512

 

[Speedskater]

If you have a large home theater system that needs more than one 20 Amp circuit. Run a large 120V feeder from the main circuit breaker box to a central location in or near the room. Then a small breaker box for the individual circuits.

 

[-Jim-]

I suggest you let the electrician determine the feed to this system. He can move to a Sub-Panel if his Load Plan determines it's needed - after consultation with the OP. I seriously doubt that would be required, but it's best left to him to determine as he should also be familiar with local code requirements. I expect a GFCI circuit is not needed.

If I was to build again from scratch, and concerned about future loads, I'd pull a 240 volt feed with #12 copper conductors (3 wire cable) and connect each side to a 20 amp two pole breaker (or two adjacent single pole breakers with a Tie Bar connecting them) at the Panel. I'd then install plug receptacles that are 20 Amp "T" Slot types into a 4 Gang Box, and wire the top plugs on the same circuit and the bottom on the other. That way I'd have a common ground for all the connected devices, in the hope of eliminating any Humming from ground loops. I'd also try to balance the potential loads to the top and bottom circuits. I don't think I'd need more than 8 plugs, so I could do away with a power bar. (Of course if I needed more the capacity is there to add another set of Ganged boxes as needed.) Of course this would be in close proximity to where the AVR, and other components will sit.

IMHO, a Power Conditioner in most Canadian or American homes is almost never necessary. Again I strongly suggest a whole house surge protector. The electrician can easily mount one in the Main Panel (or external to it.)

My advise to most home owners is if you are in any way unsure of doing electrical renovations, call an electrician. The fire or death you prevent may be your own.

 

[Speedskater]

I suggest you let the electrician determine the feed to this system. He can move to a Sub-Panel if his Load Plan determines it's needed - after consultation with the OP. I seriously doubt that would be required,

If it's for a large home theater system, that requires more than one 20 Amp circuit, I would still go with a small breaker box in or near the room. The idea is to reduce the length of the AC runs from component to component.

but it's best left to him to determine as he should also be familiar with local code requirements. I expect a GFCI circuit is not needed.

I hope he knows the code. But some are reluctant to do more than code. The GFCI and RFCI requirements are expanding and NEC 2017 is going into effect in more areas.

If I was to build again from scratch, and concerned about future loads, I'd pull a 240 volt feed with #12 copper conductors (3 wire cable) and connect each side to a 20 amp two pole breaker (or two adjacent single pole breakers with a Tie Bar connecting them) at the Panel.

For a huge system with several real big amps, that would be a good plan as it will reduce Neutral currents a thus lower voltage drop. It would be a 4 wire cable Hot, Hot, Neutral and Safety Ground.

I'd then install plug receptacles that are 20 Amp "T" Slot types into a 4 Gang Box,

While real big power amps will require 20 Amp receptacles, nothing else in the system will. There is no difference between a 20a and a 15A receptacle other than a 20A plug won't go into a 15A receptacle.

IMHO, a Power Conditioner in most Canadian or American homes is almost never necessary. Again I strongly suggest a whole house surge protector. The electrician can easily mount one in the Main Panel (or external to it.)
My advise to most home owners is if you are in any way unsure of doing electrical renovations, call an electrician. The fire or death you prevent may be your own.

I strongly agree!