JBL E150P Subwoofer Repair Advice

F

faintaxis

Audiophyte
Hi guys,

Am new here but found a thread through Google with someone being helped to fix their subwoofer amp, and I was wondering if anyone would be able to offer me similar assistance - then hopefully I can help someone else with theirs!

Anyway, I've got a JBL E150P subwoofer that on the whole behaves properly - turns on and plays bass notes through line level when requested but it's gained a couple of new quirks that I'd like to fix before they degrade into full-on faults.

The problems I'm having seem to be with the Amp powering down after auto sensing. When it powers off, it does so with a loud thud, and also it powers off incredibly quickly after the signal has gone. It used to leave around 5 minutes before powering off so as to not cut off during quiet parts, but now it powers down almost instantaneously after sub tracks have gone quiet.

I've got service manuals (here) I can post and also can take various pictures. What I was wondering is if anyone knew what could be the culprit? I'm quite happy to order in parts and re-solder as long as I've got a working sub at the end :)
 
Last edited:
j_garcia

j_garcia

Audioholic Jedi
If it isn't under warranty, it isn't worth the price to repair and I would replace it. The amp is dying on yours. Same thing I had happen to my sub and they replaced the amp free of charge under warranty.
 
F

faintaxis

Audiophyte
I don't really have the money to replace it unfortunately. I've fixed many things myself that have been out of warranty so would at least like to attempt to fix this one :)
 
j_garcia

j_garcia

Audioholic Jedi
Surprisingly nice repair/troubleshooting manual. Take a look at Pg. 15, as I suspect that's going to be your issue, the electrolytic cap. It is sort of one of the Achilles heels of the basic sub amp. Likely it will be discolored when you pull the amp, if that is the issue. If not, then follow the detailed troubleshooting section step by step to see if it is giving you the correct values at each step.
 
F

faintaxis

Audiophyte
Surprisingly nice repair/troubleshooting manual. Take a look at Pg. 15, as I suspect that's going to be your issue, the electrolytic cap. It is sort of one of the Achilles heels of the basic sub amp. Likely it will be discolored when you pull the amp, if that is the issue. If not, then follow the detailed troubleshooting section step by step to see if it is giving you the correct values at each step.
Sweet, thanks :) looks like I may have to invest in an ESR meter :D
 
TLS Guy

TLS Guy

Seriously, I have no life.
Sweet, thanks :) looks like I may have to invest in an ESR meter :D
You will have to study that circuit. These plate amps are among the most difficult devices to service and many experienced techs refuse to look at them. To be frank, they are the worst devices in the audio chain and the most unreliable.

If you are lucky you might have a blown cap.

One of the big problems is the digital switching power supplies which are a nightmare.

The big issue is your time out problem which is either the source of, or will lead you to the problem. The spec. is for that time out circuit to shut down after 15 min no signal. It seems yours has been way out of spec for a while.

Obviously the power supply is always on when plugged in. IC 1R2111 is a half bridge op amp chip, that receives the signal. Q 17, Q19, Q 21, and Q 23 form a transistor time out circuit. This is common in these devices but not the way I would do it. A CMOS logic chip and an LM series timer chip would be much better. It is most likely in that area where the trouble will be or lead you to it.

The other issue is that the manual calls for floating ground test procedures for some measurements. If you don't adhere to this you will do a lot more damage with your meter or scope and you may receive a serious personal injury. The best way to handle this, and this is what I do, is to have the device under test connected to a variable voltage transformer. I use a the time honored Variac. This makes service much safer and lessens the chance of damage.

This unit is not worth a lot of time. If there is nothing easy and obvious, I would buy and external amp and drive it with that. So in other words convert it to a passive sub.
 
Last edited:

Latest posts

newsletter

  • RBHsound.com
  • BlueJeansCable.com
  • SVS Sound Subwoofers
  • Experience the Martin Logan Montis
Top