TV/Audio Stand materials

[Ponzio]

Over the last 2 years I've purchased 4 different TV/Audio Stands and with the exception of the Standout Designs Haven 82 unit in the LR I haven't been a happy camper for various reasons; design, aesthetics, build quality, etc.

Flash forward to last week and a friend mentions a family member who's in the wood working field and can build anything I'm looking for. Obviously I'm going to go out to his shop and check out his handiwork. My question is, is wood more stable/resonant absorbent than plastic/metal? And specifically which wood material; maple/oak/some other type?

Aesthetically wood wins hands down, compared to plastic/metal, for me. But unlike the Standout Design unit, this design will be much more compact and not as beefy. Here are the dimensions I'm looking to build; 30.5” (Height) x 43” (Wide) x 22” (Depth) – need the center channel shelf (right under the top shelf) to have a 10” height opening and split the difference for the remaining 2 shelves underneath. Something similar to this > http://www.timbernation.com/Images/todd3.jpg

My biggest fear, with the width I need is, are the shelves going to sag after a period of time? I'm thinking if I make the shelves at least 2" thick I can avoid this.

 

[Alex2507]

My biggest fear, with the width I need is, are the shelves going to sag after a period of time? I'm thinking if I make the shelves at least 2" thick I can avoid this.

That's a lot of shelf.

A 1-1/2" hardwood nosing on a 3/4" plywood shelf that is supported on 3 sides should work for all but the beefiest of amps. I've seen a really cool graphic of weight distribution for such support and it reduces sag way more than I would have expected.

Looking at the pic I would try to incorporate a center support for the rear. A solid back of 1/4" plywood would hide wires.

 

[Ponzio]

That's a lot of shelf.

A 1-1/2" hardwood nosing on a 3/4" plywood shelf that is supported on 3 sides should work for all but the beefiest of amps. I've seen a really cool graphic of weight distribution for such support and it reduces sag way more than I would have expected.

Looking at the pic I would try to incorporate a center support for the rear. A solid back of 1/4" plywood would hide wires.

I'd like to leave the unit open on all sides for ventilation, with the exception of putting a 6" to 8" wide brace in the rear with 2" holes, for wire management and support. Weight wise the Yamaha RX-V2700 AVR is 38lbs., per manual, and the other components (DVR & Blu-ray components) can't be more than 10 lbs. total. But I want to future proof it, just in case I pickup another Oppo or a more powerful AVR. The center channel shelf (right under the top shelf) must be able to support anything from 15 to 35 pounds. The bottom shelf will only be used for spare components that I will occasionally use (cassette, VCR, etc.), so I'm not too worried about that.

Any recommendations on what type of wood? Everything I've researched points to a hardwood maple.

 

[fuzz092888]

The entertainment stand I have is 3/4" ply with a hardwood nosing. The heaviest component I've had on a shelf was about 80+lbs with only minimal signs of strain. Although, to be fair, I'm not sure if the very minor warping is from the components sitting on the shelves or because I need to actually lift the stand a little to slide it out from the wall. If the heaviest component you're putting on it is only 38lbs, I wouldn't be worried about shelves as thin as 3/4" and doubling that for 1.5" would probably make it sag proof for all but the heaviest of components.

If you're going to use hardwood and make it 2" thick, I'm not sure the species would matter much at that point. Especially since you're not stacking 100lb monoblocks on it.

 

[Ponzio]

If you're going to use hardwood and make it 2" thick, I'm not sure the species would matter much at that point. Especially since you're not stacking 100lb monoblocks on it.

Let's not go down that road. I'm going broke just buying solid state components.

I'm mostly worried about the shelf underneath the center channel, which will hold the AVR & possibly an Oppo 105, 103 or 95 player in the future. My current Oppo BDP-105 is 18 lbs. and let's say the future AVR comes in at 50 pounds, that makes for a hefty 68 pounds.

 

[Swerd]

Aesthetically wood wins hands down, compared to plastic/metal, for me. But unlike the Standout Design unit, this design will be much more compact and not as beefy. Here are the dimensions I'm looking to build; 30.5” (Height) x 43” (Wide) x 22” (Depth) – need the center channel shelf (right under the top shelf) to have a 10” height opening and split the difference for the remaining 2 shelves underneath. Something similar to this > http://www.timbernation.com/Images/todd3.jpg

My biggest fear, with the width I need is, are the shelves going to sag after a period of time? I'm thinking if I make the shelves at least 2" thick I can avoid this.

A 1-1/2" hardwood nosing on a 3/4" plywood shelf that is supported on 3 sides should work for all but the beefiest of amps. I've seen a really cool graphic of weight distribution for such support and it reduces sag way more than I would have expected.

Looking at the pic I would try to incorporate a center support for the rear. A solid back of 1/4" plywood would hide wires.

Like Alex said, use ¾" plywood with a hardwood strip glued to the front edge. Maybe a picture would help.

http://www.diyadvice.com/diy/built-ins/materials-and-hardware/sagless-spans/

 

[Ponzio]

This is really appeals to me but with a wider layout using maple.

Well I was going to insert an image but I'm told it exceeds the size limit allowed.

This link will have to do.
http://www.timbernation.com/Images/tigerrack2.jpg

 

[sawzalot]

That's a lot of shelf.

A 1-1/2" hardwood nosing on a 3/4" plywood shelf that is supported on 3 sides should work for all but the beefiest of amps. I've seen a really cool graphic of weight distribution for such support and it reduces sag way more than I would have expected.

Looking at the pic I would try to incorporate a center support for the rear. A solid back of 1/4" plywood would hide wires.

Like Alex said, use ¾" plywood with a hardwood strip glued to the front edge.

I agree with the finished hardwood strip added to the front edge of a single and or double layer of 3/4 inch ply, I also like to install the same strip on the back edge when and if you prefer that open concept (no ply back) . This type of woodworking will not deflect at all holding up to almost any HT applications.

 

[Alex2507]

This is really appeals to me but with a wider layout using maple.

Well I was going to insert an image but I'm told it exceeds the size limit allowed.

This link will have to do.
http://www.timbernation.com/Images/tigerrack2.jpg

Have you priced 2" x 22" x 43" Curly Maple?

See what you can find in the way of Maple stair treads and consider putting two of them side by side to obtain the desired depth.
Even that is kind of pricey. Plywood would be just that much closer to monoblocks.

 

[Ponzio]

Have you priced 2" x 22" x 43" Curly Maple?

See what you can find in the way of Maple stair treads and consider putting two of them side by side to obtain the desired depth.
Even that is kind of pricey. Plywood would be just that much closer to monoblocks.

You had to shoot down my dream, didn't you? Just kidding.

Yeah, the reality of the cost of the unit is probably going to gob-smack me and I'll probably have to go with plywood.

Great advice there about putting 2 floor treads together to create a single shelf. I'll be traveling this weekend to the local lumber shops to get an idea about costs before meeting the guy. Thanks.

 

[Nestor]

Over the last 2 years I've purchased 4 different TV/Audio Stands and with the exception of the Standout Designs Haven 82 unit in the LR I haven't been a happy camper for various reasons; design, aesthetics, build quality, etc.

Flash forward to last week and a friend mentions a family member who's in the wood working field and can build anything I'm looking for. Obviously I'm going to go out to his shop and check out his handiwork. My question is, is wood more stable/resonant absorbent than plastic/metal? And specifically which wood material; maple/oak/some other type?

Aesthetically wood wins hands down, compared to plastic/metal, for me. But unlike the Standout Design unit, this design will be much more compact and not as beefy. Here are the dimensions I'm looking to build; 30.5” (Height) x 43” (Wide) x 22” (Depth) – need the center channel shelf (right under the top shelf) to have a 10” height opening and split the difference for the remaining 2 shelves underneath. Something similar to this > http://www.timbernation.com/Images/todd3.jpg

My biggest fear, with the width I need is, are the shelves going to sag after a period of time? I'm thinking if I make the shelves at least 2" thick I can avoid this.

A vertical support at the rear, from the floor to the top shelf, would help greatly with sag.

 

[Ponzio]

Update: I went to the local Lowes & Home Depot last Sunday but neither had 1 1/2" or 2" thick maple wood sheets or treads to look at. Point of fact, they had no maple wood, hard or soft. More frustrating was that they couldn't even quote me some prices. They both took my name and number but I have yet to hear from them. There's a professional lumber yard around but it's 25 miles away and with my COPD I ran out of steam after buying some speakers and visiting Lowes & Home Depot. And to top everything off, the so called "family friend" is a custom woodworker, who wants $2,200, with the specs I provided. I didn't even mention if he could lower the price if I provided the hardware/wood. I suspect I know the answer to that.

This is not looking good.

 

[sawzalot]

Update: I went to the local Lowes & Home Depot last Sunday but neither had 1 1/2" or 2" thick maple wood sheets or treads to look at. Point of fact, they had no maple wood, hard or soft. More frustrating was that they couldn't even quote me some prices. They both took my name and number but I have yet to hear from them. There's a professional lumber yard around but it's 25 miles away and with my COPD I ran out of steam after buying some speakers and visiting Lowes & Home Depot. And to top everything off, the so called "family friend" is a custom woodworker, who wants $2,200, with the specs I provided. I didn't even mention if he could lower the price if I provided the hardware/wood. I suspect I know the answer to that.

This is not looking good.

The stair treads are over by the trim department , there is a section with stair rail parts and the treads are there in 36 inch lengths and 48 inch lengths, (I am going to install four of them today- in 30 minutes or so -before carpet installation this afternoon). the 3/4 inch maple plywood is in the last holding bin on the plywood racks far to the right, mostly all Lowes are set up the same way, it is 3/4 inch actually 1/16th shy but still suitable it is oak layered on one side and maple layered on the opposite side and at my store the maple side is always facing up. I know some stores vary but the three I have been in down here have all had the same material in the same spots.

 

[Ponzio]

The stair treads are over by the trim department , there is a section with stair rail parts and the treads are there in 36 inch lengths and 48 inch lengths, (I am going to install four of them today- in 30 minutes or so -before carpet installation this afternoon). the 3/4 inch maple plywood is in the last holding bin on the plywood racks far to the right, mostly all Lowes are set up the same way, it is 3/4 inch actually 1/16th shy but still suitable it is oak layered on one side and maple layered on the opposite side and at my store the maple side is always facing up. I know some stores vary but the three I have been in down here have all had the same material in the same spots.

Thanks for the heads up. I assumed when I told the young men at Lowes & Home Depot (Plymouth Meeting) that I was looking for maple sheets or treads, they would of known the locations of the treads at least. Don't assume anything!

 

[Swerd]

… And to top everything off, the so called "family friend" is a custom woodworker, who wants $2,200, with the specs I provided. I didn't even mention if he could lower the price if I provided the hardware/wood. I suspect I know the answer to that.

After looking at those two photos, change your requirements to:

Hardwood for the vertical shelf supports (the legs). Type of wood and dimensions ??

Use ¾" baltic birch or plywood shelves covered with maple veneer. Use more expensive curly maple veneer for the top shelf. The other shelves will be much less visible, so use less expensive maple (or other?) veneer for them. Both top and bottom surfaces of each shelf should be veneered and finished, but ask the woodworker what he recommends for the undersides to keep cost lower.

Stiffen at least the front shelf edge with curly maple strips that are ¾"×1½". If you stiffen both front & rear edges, the rear edge won't be visible, so use less expensive straight grain maple hardwood (or other less expensive similar looking wood) for the rear edge.

¾" thick baltic birch or void free plywood, stiffened with ¾"×1½" hardwood strips will easily support the weight of your electronic gear. You don't need 1½" or 2" thick solid hardwood for this. And, as you've found, it is quite expensive.

Once the maple is finished, and all your gear is loaded onto the shelves, under normal lighting, you should be able to see only the front and top surfaces.

You probably won't get this at Lowe's or Home Depot. Look up a real lumber supply or woodworker's store in your area.

 

[Ponzio]

You are a wise man, Master Swerd.

[turning to a friend at his side] Do I have to grovel now or something?

 

[Ponzio]

The stair treads are over by the trim department , there is a section with stair rail parts and the treads are there in 36 inch lengths and 48 inch lengths, (I am going to install four of them today- in 30 minutes or so -before carpet installation this afternoon). the 3/4 inch maple plywood is in the last holding bin on the plywood racks far to the right, mostly all Lowes are set up the same way, it is 3/4 inch actually 1/16th shy but still suitable it is oak layered on one side and maple layered on the opposite side and at my store the maple side is always facing up. I know some stores vary but the three I have been in down here have all had the same material in the same spots.

Went back Sunday and the competent staff at both the stair/trim and whole wood sheets departments were in attendance. Hallelujah!

Got some prices on 4'x8' hardwood sheets and oak treads.
¾” maple/plywood hardwood 4’x8’ sheet $53 each
¾” solid oak hardwood 4’x8’ sheets $55 each
Solid Oak hardwood tread 4’x2’ - each $27

The maple hardwood risers can only be purchased at their South Philly/Aramingo Ave./Northeast (???) stores. So if I go with the maple risers option, I'm going to have to go to one of those 3 locations. The salesman said he briefly worked at the South Philly location and knows they have them. Oddly the maple risers are in the Lowes data base ... I got the item number ... but they won't ship/transfer them to the Chemical road site. Thought it was odd but true. He called the store in South Philly and the guy on the other verified they have them in stock but can't ship them out to other sites. Go figure. Since I wasn't going to purchase them that day, I saw no reason to get Lowes management involved.

While the risers/treads have a built in curved trim in the front, for aesthetics, the 4'x8' sheets are much more affordable. One of the reasons I didn't notice the maple/plywood and oak hardwood sheets was cause they were stacked about 14' off the floor. The gentleman in that department was kind enough to get a forklift and show me both the maple/plywood and solid oak sheets. They were unfinished obviously but both look good and free of any knots/blemishes. The maple veneer/plywood looked especially rich but the oak hardwood sheet was solid and may be easier to trim/modify and the sides of the sheet will look better when stained & lacquered without the need to purchase trim pieces.

Things are coming into focus for me & its looking more doable by the day. Now I just have to find a woodworker willing to work with me and my budget.

 

[sawzalot]

If you send me a plan and let me know your budget including material I could probably help you out and fabricate your stand in my shop then deliver to you for the finish stain/sealer , I dont mind helping you get this done.

 

[Ponzio]

If you send me a plan and let me know your budget including material I could probably help you out and fabricate your stand in my shop then deliver to you for the finish stain/sealer , I dont mind helping you get this done.

Sent you a PM.

 

[Ponzio]

In hindsight I should have posted an update earlier but life got in the way. Basically there are 3 options when it comes to AV furniture; brand spanking new… usually overpriced & questionable build on affordable units … DIY … probably the best option if you have the skills/time/tools … and the used market, which is what I ended up doing.

I found a Salamander unit back in July, on Craig’s List, that needed a bit of spit & shine, new shelves and some love. The layout was very similar to my Standout Designs unit in my living room and brand new went for $1,500; I purchased the unit for $200 after a bit of wrangling from his original asking price of $500. Two of the shelves were scratched beyond repair and the pre-drilled shelf guide holes were useless but the overall structure and veneer of the body was in good shape with some light scratches that I was able to repair using a Miller SF1204 Wood Scratch Fix Pen. I purchased a ¾” solid oak hardwood 4’x8’ sheet for $55 and cut out 5 shelves to match the existing shelf measurements, 3 base shelves and cut out the rest for some home use. I farmed out the wood finishing staining/lacquer work to a carpenter for $100 and I resolved the shot shelf guide holes issue by purchasing some metal/brass shelf guides … http://www.rockler.com/brass-shelf-standards-select-length ... and Voila!