Update on my design, and some driver pr0n!

[Spkr_Bldr]

not too bad, looks like the RAAL is a great deal. Are the off-axis in the same line? I've tried to get in contact with Alex for a pair of these some time ago, but never received a reply from him. Lucky you!

Try him again, I've found him extremely responsive. He and I have acutually spent probably 5 hours just chatting on the phone over the last 2 months or so. But yea, the RAAL is the real deal ... it's the best treble I've heard and really takes the speaker to the next level.

Enclosure: I would appreciate to see a near-field measurement on the woofer. The LMS measurement doesn't show what the mid/woofer does, due to the setting of the timeframe.
Put the mic at about 1 or 2 inches from the bass driver and measure without smoothing or timeframe (no cut-off on the responce curve).
If your measurement is right, then you should see the standing waves in the enclosure (they are much lower than with classis style encloseres, although unfortunately still there)

I did take quite a few nearfield measurements just yesterday, didn't save any though. But the AT woofer is literally ruler flat up to it's cone edge/surround resonance at 1250hz. Even at 1/12 octave smoothing there are NO wobbles in the curve nearfield, it's easily the smoothest woofer measurement I've ever personally taken.

I have better luck 'seeing' the cabinet resonances by pulling out the port and sticking the mic in the hole. Of course they're still there, but there isn't one inparticular with serious magnitude ... the curves of the cabinet and all the bracing break up nodes into numerious smaller nodes, all of such small magnitude that they're insignificant. And like I said before, the only issue remaining with a cabinet like this is sound transmission through the walls, and that's what the groove in the walls is for. Please don't steal that idea though

 

[asterduc]

Raal: thanks Ryan, I'll give it another try.

Measurement: okay, fair enough.

Regards,
Ed.

 

[asterduc]

Please don't steal that idea though

oeps, overlooked this one.
Although a little different, but it's in my design already.
As a said earlier, we are sharing the same dreams

Regards,
Ed.

 

[Spkr_Bldr]

Hey Ed, I tried putting your Concave Mk2 forum discussion through Babelfish translator ... it was still pretty hard to understand, but it seems as though your primary focus with this design is standing internal waves or nodes, and overall cabinet resonances. Let me add one to your list for consideration, elimation of cabinet edge diffraction.

Pardon me for making the suggestion, you certainly know what you're doing without my help! But from my own experience the two things that have the most impact in making a speaker totally transparent (outside of drivers and crossover) are lack of cabinet colorations and elimination of edge diffraction. That explains the heavy curvature at the front of my cabinet, and how the baffle flows into this curvature. That curve is essentially about a 5.5" roundover, and from measurements nearly eliminates any diffraction ... and any that I am seeing are no doubt coming from the top edge of the baffle.

Might I suggest since your Mk2 is still in planning stages that you incorporate more curvature into the front of your cabinet to eliminate diffraction?

 

[asterduc]

Hey Ed, I tried putting your Concave Mk2 forum discussion through Babelfish translator ...

Might I suggest since your Mk2 is still in planning stages that you incorporate more curvature into the front of your cabinet to eliminate diffraction?

Hello Ryan,
fun to hear you guys are able to get some information out of an other language

You are right in your statement.
Diffraction is indeed something I didn't pay enough attention on in the Mk1 version. I thought that the 45° angle would be sufficiant. But diffraction in the endstage of the project became a serious issue.
Therefore the Mk2 design has the same 45° angle foillwoed by the curvature.

The frontpanel itself is not routed yet, I am still in a experimental stage to let the frontplaat fit perfectly with the body of the enclusure. As soon as I have that machining under controle, I well curve it as much as possible. The curve is limited by the thickness of the frontpanel and the width of largest driver (the bass driver). This bass driver is not yet decided (it 'll probably be the Scan Speak 22W/8857).
Simulations with 'The Edge' will have to show the results.

Another thing I didn't care about in the original design was the baffle step.
That also is something that I would like to improve in the new enclosure. Probably in the design of the filter.

Creating the non-compromise speaker is everybodys dream. I don't say we will ever reach that goal, but we are making improvements step by step, having fun doing so, and that what it is all about.

Have a good weekend.
Ed.

 

[kevin k.]

What's the latest news, Ryan?

 

[Spkr_Bldr]

What's the latest news, Ryan?

Well, good timing to ask They're done, and I have some studio shots to post. We also just last night had a get together at a local audio nuts house, 38 people showed and we have 5 separate rooms running. The last couple shots were my room, nice gear and a great sound. The tiny little room was crowded with people all night, and a few people ready to buy this pair and take 'em home that night. It sucks to turn down business, but I have to take this pair to RMAF in 2 weeks!

I feel comfortable in saying now after a few weeks of listening that the RAAL is the best commercially available tweeter in the World. And I haven't found anybody yet who's heard them that would disagree.

 

[Funkmonkey]

Wow, those look sweet!!! good luck at RMAF.
Cheers,
Greg

 

[cbraver]

Those are beautiful.

 

[R-Carpenter]

Great looking speakers Ryan. Hats off!
If I may suggest eliminating bolt heads from the top for WAF.
I am assuming, you vacuum pressed the sides after the speaker cabinet was assembled.
I was eyeballing RALL for a while now. How low can you cross it without having much of a distortion issues? I always thought, ribbons are better suited for a 3-way.
Again, beautiful speakers. I don't think, there's any reason to under price the work. Hit em hard and high!

 

[snappy_snoopy]

SWEET

 

[Seth=L]

Those speakers look very nice. You have nice things.

 

[mazersteven]

I love the wood grain. Great job

May I suggest some "Antique Brass" or "Brushed Brass" screw caps instead of chrome.

 

[Spkr_Bldr]

I love the wood grain. Great job

May I suggest some "Antique Brass" or "Brushed Brass" screw caps instead of chrome.

Thanks Maz, the wood is called Tineo ... and the lot I have is wonderful, tons of character and highly contrasting grain and figure. It's hard to find though.

The acorn nuts on top are the only thing left to be 'ironed out'. I'm having custom bolts made, but they weren't ready in time for the show. Instead of a treaded rod they'll have a bolt that's the full length of the cab, and the head on top will be very low profile and done in black chrome.

The show went VERY well btw. We had great feedback, and so far one order from the show, and 4-5 guys who swore they'd be calling to place an order this month. How bout a few shots from our room

A cutaway showing the cabinet construction ...

No ridiculously expensive front ends here! $1475 amps, USB Audio streamed from a laptop into the Off-Ramp Turbo 3. The entire front end with speakers is around $10K.

 

[yettitheman]

Amazing looking speakers.

They remind me a bit of the inside of the B&W 802's...

I bet there is no noise when you wrap on the cabinet

 

[snappy_snoopy]

WOW no wonder the show went well that is a kick @@@ show room you got there. Sometimes simple is best !!! Anyway i was wondering what are those tall looking things left and right of your designed speakers ?? Are they a pair of electrostatic speakers for comparison purposes ??

 

[gus6464]

WOW no wonder the show went well that is a kick @@@ show room you got there. Sometimes simple is best !!! Anyway i was wondering what are those tall looking things left and right of your designed speakers ?? Are they a pair of electrostatic speakers for comparison purposes ??

They look like planar arrays. Notice the boxes behind them which have two big drivers facing away from each other which are probably for the low end.

 

[gus6464]

A cutaway showing the cabinet construction ...

Is that bottom isolated compartment for the crossover?

 

[Spkr_Bldr]

Hey guys, thanks for the compliments ... a few more thanks and maybe I can get back to just one red chicklet

The tall ribbons on the side go with the open baffle subs as a system. That's what Chris (BPT owner) runs at home, and they use the full correction from the TacT pre to integrate and operate. The ribbon is the RD75 from BG. It's not something we sell, but brought it anyway ... Chris' perogative. That system does sound incredible though, they make the small hotel room sound about 3x as big as it actually is.

The monitors, yea the cabinet is DEAD. That groove in the walls is filled. I had planned on using expanding urethane foam, but thanks to R-Carpenter's suggestion I tried a few different sandblasting media, and found one that the accelerometer on my Clio 8 FW package says is best ... and better than the foam. Thanks for that suggestion!

Yes, the separate chamber at bottom is for the crossover.

I doubt anybody from here is seriously interested in a $2600 bookshelf, but if you are get in touch with me soon! My margins are razor thin right now to try and get some traction in the market, and the price will be going up significantly by year end. I have a few changes that I'll make at the time of the price increase, but right now they're a screamin value ... drivers alone cost more than 1/2 of the retail completed price.

 

[Warpdrv]

first off, the speakers look amazing...

Looks like you are running D-Sonic IcePower Amps there..... The 1000ASP modules are fantastic...
How did you get that color bronze... its pretty cool... I didn't know Dennis did multicolor anodizing.
I love my 2000-5 amp... endless power

As far as your nuts on top, could you use a flanged flat chrome or brushed stainless..... They thread in internally from the bottom and the top is flat, it might require you to drill the top hole 1/8 to 1/4 bigger, but that is inconsequential. You could also install something like that flush counter sunk underneath the veneer, then veneer would hide it altogether. As far as the bottom, It would be far less visible...

Just an idea

see pic... Pardon the crude drawing