Technical Pro Da-b3000 3,000 Watt Class "d"

H

Hydrazine

Audioholic Intern
I recommend using zzounds.com, as they have incredible customer service. They have provided me with the best service of any mail order retailer when problems like defective items have occurred. Use zzounds.com's spywatch pricematch link on their EP2500 page and use this SOURCE as your place to get the price match. Zzounds will usually beat it by like 10 dollars, including shipping. So, expect about $280 shipped each from zzounds.com using the above link to price match.

-Chris
That's a good link but I'll give'em this one @$269

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/controller/home?O=cart&A=details&Q=&sku=280617&is=REG

Its almost hard to believe they can go for so cheap and with such great reviews.
 
H

Hydrazine

Audioholic Intern
LOL! Awesome.:D

I just called in and picked them up from Zzounds at $255 each:eek: using the price match link above.

$255 for an amp of this magnitude is a steal.
 
WmAx

WmAx

Audioholic Samurai
I have a question on these pro amps.

What is the essential difference between these amps from Beh, Crown, Yamaha and all when compared to an XPA-2 or a Rotel or other Home audio amps?
There is no difference in the amplifier technology in many cases. The differences are in the cooling system(most home amps use passive cooling and most pro amps use forced air cooling) for the most part. Also, pro amps are more likely to use methods to increase power efficiency such as using H class or other variable voltage rail supply switching to reduce heat generation/increase efficiency. Most pro amps have balanced pro voltage level inputs instead of the standard consumer RCA inputs on home amps. You may have to use a line level voltage converter. These run about $50 and up.

-Chris
 
N

nitin_mehra20

Audioholic
There is no difference in the amplifier technology in many cases. The differences are in the cooling system(most home amps use passive cooling and most pro amps use forced air cooling) for the most part. Also, pro amps are more likely to use methods to increase power efficiency such as using H class or other variable voltage rail supply switching to reduce heat generation/increase efficiency. Most pro amps have balanced pro voltage level inputs instead of the standard consumer RCA inputs on home amps. You may have to use a line level voltage converter. These run about $50 and up.

-Chris
Hmm... So why are they cheaper than their home counterparts????

Any of these amps come with a regular RCA inputs?? :)
 
WmAx

WmAx

Audioholic Samurai
Hmm... So why are they cheaper than their home counterparts????

Any of these amps come with a regular RCA inputs?? :)
Pro audio is very competitive and higher power is needed as compared to home audio. In addition, the chassis on home audio amps is often expensive machined aluminum parts to look pretty, where as the pro amps use plain sheet metal that is simply painted.

I personally used to use only home 'high end' amplifiers, pre-amps, etc. I used to use all McIntosh amplifiers in my main system. Today I use pro audio amplifiers in all of my systems along with other pro audio gear such as pro DSP xovers.

There are few pro amps with consumer RCA inputs. One example is the QSC GX series intended for DJs. I would, however, recommend using a consumer to pro level voltage converter and using an amp like the Yamaha PxxxxS series, as these do not have fan noise to deal with, and are superbly engineered amplifiers. Instead of a converter, if you want a very high performance/serious 2 channel system, you could use a Behringer DCX2496, which has suitable internal pre-amps to boost the consumer line to pro level voltages. In addition, the DCX unit allows for extensive control of your speakers and provides for advanced crossover abilities to seamlessly integrate speakers with subwoofer(s). You can even use a DCX to control fully active speakers (no passive crossovers). I use a DCX in both of my systems, which are both fully active.

-Chris
 
N

nitin_mehra20

Audioholic
Pro audio is very competitive and higher power is needed as compared to home audio. In addition, the chassis on home audio amps is often expensive machined aluminum parts to look pretty, where as the pro amps use plain sheet metal that is simply painted.

I personally used to use only home 'high end' amplifiers, pre-amps, etc. I used to use all McIntosh amplifiers in my main system. Today I use pro audio amplifiers in all of my systems along with other pro audio gear such as pro DSP xovers.

There are few pro amps with consumer RCA inputs. One example is the QSC GX series intended for DJs. I would, however, recommend using a consumer to pro level voltage converter and using an amp like the Yamaha PxxxxS series, as these do not have fan noise to deal with, and are superbly engineered amplifiers. Instead of a converter, if you want a very high performance/serious 2 channel system, you could use a Behringer DCX2496, which has suitable internal pre-amps to boost the consumer line to pro level voltages. In addition, the DCX unit allows for extensive control of your speakers and provides for advanced crossover abilities to seamlessly integrate speakers with subwoofer(s). You can even use a DCX to control fully active speakers (no passive crossovers). I use a DCX in both of my systems, which are both fully active.

-Chris
Thanks for the explanation!!!! :)

I have an EMotiva XPA-3 amp to power the center and Rear channels (all Axiom speakers) and have a pair of Axiom M80s as the L & R towers.

The towers have a recommended impedance of 4ohms. I was wondering as to what 2 channel amp should I buy to power these?

Since I do not have a very big budget, I was looking at the pro amps as they seem to offer great power at a fairly reasonable price.

Any recommendations? :)
 
H

Hydrazine

Audioholic Intern
... Instead of a converter, if you want a very high performance/serious 2 channel system, you could use a Behringer DCX2496, which has suitable internal pre-amps to boost the consumer line to pro level voltages. In addition, the DCX unit allows for extensive control of your speakers and provides for advanced crossover abilities to seamlessly integrate speakers with subwoofer(s). You can even use a DCX to control fully active speakers (no passive crossovers). I use a DCX in both of my systems, which are both fully active.

-Chris
Chris,

Do you program it through the computer interface or the front panel?

I just opened up my new DCX2496 a couple days ago, plugged it in and started fidgeting with it. Wow.:eek: This is a serious piece of equipment.

Its will take some learning time though. Its not exactly a plug and play unit. And definitely not for beginners.
 
WmAx

WmAx

Audioholic Samurai
Chris,

Do you program it through the computer interface or the front panel?

I just opened up my new DCX2496 a couple days ago, plugged it in and started fidgeting with it. Wow.:eek: This is a serious piece of equipment.

Its will take some learning time though. Its not exactly a plug and play unit. And definitely not for beginners.
I prefer to use the computer interface. You can program it through the face, but it's far easier to do so with the computer.

As far as it being a serious piece of equipment: of course it is! It is suited to ANY level of audio system. It will help even the best of the best systems to realize their potential.

-Chris
 
WmAx

WmAx

Audioholic Samurai
Thanks for the explanation!!!! :)

I have an EMotiva XPA-3 amp to power the center and Rear channels (all Axiom speakers) and have a pair of Axiom M80s as the L & R towers.

The towers have a recommended impedance of 4ohms. I was wondering as to what 2 channel amp should I buy to power these?

Since I do not have a very big budget, I was looking at the pro amps as they seem to offer great power at a fairly reasonable price.

Any recommendations? :)
First, if you use the Emotiva amp hooked to the DCX via XLR, you may get noise issues. The Emotivas have very high sensitivity XLR inputs. A bad combo with the high output voltage from the DCX XLR outputs. You would preferably use an XLR to RCA adapter and Harrison Labs 12dB attenuator plugs in line with the RCA input of the amplifier to lower the voltage and prevent noise issues. Actual pro amps have input level trims that prevent this type of noise problem.

If you are looking for my recommendation on pro amps: I have tried quite a few and I have settled on the Yamaha PxxxxS series amplifiers as my preferred choice. You can get a good deal on them by finding a low ball discount dealer and having zzounds.com price match (and they will also give an additional $10-$15 off on top of the low price you find). You should be able to get the P2500s for about $340-$360, for example, instead of the $400 normal retail price it sells for. The Yamahas of course have the input level trims, therefor there is no noise issue. Also, the fans in the Yamahas will not ever activate during home use, so there is no fan noise to contend with unlike with most other pro amps that require you to swap out the stock fans with low noise versions. Another benefit of the Yamaha amplifiers is that they use an extremely sophisticated power supply that almost doubles the efficiency over most amplifiers, but they still use standard AB class output stage, so fidelity is not in question. They are perfectly transparent devices. I don't know what kind of power range you prefer, but I tend to go insane these days. :) Even my computer 2 channel monitor system has over 1000 watts RMS per stereo channel. I would recommend at least the Yamaha P3500S for your Axioms. It produces 350x2 into 8 Ohms, or 450x2 into 4 Ohms, both channels driven, 20Hz-20,000Khz.

-Chris
 
H

Hydrazine

Audioholic Intern
Yeah!

I'm feeling like a kid in a candy store right now. (Or more like a crack addict in a crack house.)

UPS just delivered 7,200 Watts of rack mount Behringer power amplifiers.

The audio addiction is feeling pretty good right now. :D
 
S

scooterp7

Audioholic Intern
First, if you use the Emotiva amp hooked to the DCX via XLR, you may get noise issues. The Emotivas have very high sensitivity XLR inputs. A bad combo with the high output voltage from the DCX XLR outputs. You would preferably use an XLR to RCA adapter and Harrison Labs 12dB attenuator plugs in line with the RCA input of the amplifier to lower the voltage and prevent noise issues. Actual pro amps have input level trims that prevent this type of noise problem.


-Chris
Speaking of noise. I read in a thread here some time ago regarding loud popping when turning off (or on) their system. With my system, (that I should have hooked up within a week :) ) A Pio 1018 AVR (serving as Pre-amp) into DCX2496 into EP2500. Is there a proper sequential procedure for what is turned on/off first when I'm starting or shutting things down? TIA.
 
lsiberian

lsiberian

Audioholic Overlord
Interesting. The amp designers just keep coming up with new ways of doing electronics.

Thoes look like serious amps. I like how all the tech specs are given in detail on the Yamaha website.

I wish I could but unfortunately I won't be able to go with those due to budget constraints. I have to build a whole new audio system from scratch. ... This stuff can get expensive real fast.

BTW, do any of you have experience with the Beringer EP2500? Good, bad, outdated?
This is the post of the decade asking Wmax if he has experience with the Ep2500. He certainly does and routinely recommends it for sub amps. I'm sure it's ok for speakers. You will need to mod the fan for home use.
 
lsiberian

lsiberian

Audioholic Overlord
I'm feeling like a kid in a candy store right now. (Or more like a crack addict in a crack house.)

UPS just delivered 7,200 Watts of rack mount Behringer power amplifiers.

The audio addiction is feeling pretty good right now. :D
I hope you realize there a fees that come with Wmax's advice. These fees can be paid in the form of pictures of your equipment :D Or we can hunt you down and give you an offer you can't refuse(IOTW show us some pictures.)
 
WmAx

WmAx

Audioholic Samurai
Speaking of noise. I read in a thread here some time ago regarding loud popping when turning off (or on) their system. With my system, (that I should have hooked up within a week :) ) A Pio 1018 AVR (serving as Pre-amp) into DCX2496 into EP2500. Is there a proper sequential procedure for what is turned on/off first when I'm starting or shutting things down? TIA.
I don't have any on/off popping noises in either one of my systems, both of which use a DCX2496. The computer system also has an EP2500, and I get no on/off popping with that unit either.

-Chris
 
H

Hydrazine

Audioholic Intern
Behringer Pics

I hope you realize there a fees that come with Wmax's advice. These fees can be paid in the form of pictures of your equipment :D Or we can hunt you down and give you an offer you can't refuse(IOTW show us some pictures.)
Now why didn't I think of that?:D





Comming up next:

8 of the Dayton RSS390HF-4 15" Reference HF Subwoofer 4 Ohm



Wmax and I are discussing via PM a line array of Hi Fi transducers to complement the bass.

My neighbors are going to hate me.:D But that's nothing new.;)
 
highfigh

highfigh

Seriously, I have no life.
Interesting. The amp designers just keep coming up with new ways of doing electronics.

Thoes look like serious amps. I like how all the tech specs are given in detail on the Yamaha website.

I wish I could but unfortunately I won't be able to go with those due to budget constraints. I have to build a whole new audio system from scratch. ... This stuff can get expensive real fast.

BTW, do any of you have experience with the Beringer EP2500? Good, bad, outdated?
Designing a power supply to work in concert with the amplifier's demand isn't new. Pules Width Modulated supplies have been around for over 30 years.

Why would the EP 2500 be outdated?
 
highfigh

highfigh

Seriously, I have no life.
Speaking of noise. I read in a thread here some time ago regarding loud popping when turning off (or on) their system. With my system, (that I should have hooked up within a week :) ) A Pio 1018 AVR (serving as Pre-amp) into DCX2496 into EP2500. Is there a proper sequential procedure for what is turned on/off first when I'm starting or shutting things down? TIA.
Yes, there is a correct sequence. Power amp goes on last and off first. That way, if the equipment before the amp in the signal chain would produce a thump, it'll never get to the speakers. If it still thumps, the amp may have an issue.
 
H

Hydrazine

Audioholic Intern
Designing a power supply to work in concert with the amplifier's demand isn't new. Pules Width Modulated supplies have been around for over 30 years.

Why would the EP 2500 be outdated?
1) Yes, I know of PWM supplies but this is the first I've heard of it being used as described in the Yamaha amp. Sorry :rolleyes:

2) Production of the EP 2500 has been recently discontinued.
 
PulseP

PulseP

Audiophyte
I purchased this amp

HI guys
first time posting here,saw the thread previous before buying appreciate information so here's what I'm using and my opinion. I purchased the DA b3000 from Abes of Maine it took 10 days to receive which I was not happy about. They were just middlemen for technical pro-as it shipped from their. Anyway I am happy with it I'm just running one harbinger HX118s 18" Sub with it. With QSC powered tops. Love the low frequencies it's producing,but I really do not have other 18 inch subs or amps to compare to
is extremely lightweight, like the build quality, and the blue led lights
I'm a mobile DJ and producer Not sound engineer I have that yet to run this hard and long in large venue I'll keep you posted. Hope this helps
Sub specifications are - 400 W RMS, 800 W peak sine, 1600 W peak program
sensitivity 98 dB
 
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