JTR Captivator vs Funk Audio 18.x series - which is the better performing subwoofer?

[fuzz092888]

Once you get that high up in quality there really is no wrong answer IMO. I thought it was Ricci that did the subs around here. Illka used to do them, but he lives in europe so it's hard to get drivers to him. JL Audio won the upper range in Illka's test, but that's been several years now.

I agree up to a point. I think the three of them will sound more alike than different, but depending on how you were going to use them, one may be better for a specific application than the others. The weight difference is certainly something to consider, and so is the much higher frequency response over the RE XXX, which is really only good if you have speakers that can reach nice and deep.

The JL is a great sub. Extremely linear over a very long stroke. I'd love to have enough money to compare the RE, TC and JL against one another to get some objective and subjective data, but alas, I'm scint broke

 

[lsiberian]

The JL is a great sub. Extremely linear over a very long stroke. I'd love to have enough money to compare the RE, TC and JL against one another to get some objective and subjective data, but alas, I'm scint broke

Don't I know that feeling. I don't even have one of those drivers.(well okay I have a TC, but not the ultra) I'd rather spend my money on a RAAL than a sub though.

 

[fuzz092888]

Don't I know that feeling. I don't even have one of those drivers.(well okay I have a TC, but not the ultra) I'd rather spend my money on a RAAL than a sub though.

Two of those I do have (RAAL) and I whole heartedly agree.

Oops, three, I mean. Forgot about the center with the 70-20 RAAL.

 

[Steve81]

It's not obvious from the website that there are any other differences other than the amplifiers. The info on the passive models is a little footnote under the specs table on the product page for each sub.

Look more closely at the bullet points on the left, particularly the one about the 18" driver, and you'll note an Xmax of 20mm for the 1000 vs 30mm for the 2400.

 

[BoredSysAdmin]

So Chase didn't close up shop due to Obama winning the election?

You lost me.. Link please

 

[Steve81]

You lost me.. Link please

http://forums.audioholics.com/forums/subwoofers/82421-chase-home-theater-cht-closing-their-doors.html

https://www.chasehometheater.com/forum/showthread.php?t=5408

 

[BoredSysAdmin]

hmmm missed that thread.. yea feel free to disregard my first post .. that guys is really a joker

 

[Nuance AH]

I appreciate the responses guys. I'll pass this thread along to my buddy.

 

[ack_bak]

Nuance,

I don't know your friends room, but he may benefit from duals as well. A pair of Power Sound Audio XS30's would be slightly over budget, and a pair of XV15's would be well under budget (your friend could probably get three). They use the CEA-2010 standard for their measurements, and my understanding is that they are pretty close to what Ricci has measured, so I think you could use that as a baseline to compare to other subs.

With a large room, there is some real benefit to multiple subs (trust me, I know). Yes, he would be giving up some output and extension vs the other subs (maybe), but he would get smoother bass response. I guess it comes down to whether or not your friend is a bass head or not and if he will really be pushing his system.

If he has any DIY skills, for $2K I suspect he can put the Funk Audio and JTR/Seaton subs to shame. The new Dayton 18" driver has been built and compared directly to a Submersive and it was pretty much an even fight. Difference being the Dayton driver is $250 a pop $2K would easily put you in two dual opposed sealed enclosures using the Dayton drivers and powered with a pro amp. Should give you about twice the performance for right around $2K. Of course we are talking DIY....