Fried my SVS PB12-Plus...AGAIN.

3db

3db

Audioholic Slumlord
I'm sorry to hear that Dave. Hopefully waranty will cover you.
 
TheFactor

TheFactor

Audioholic Field Marshall
Thanks for the follow up.

First of all an RCA connection is a one way connection. The interesting thing is that the Velodyne only corrects if the other subs are connected, so the reason it is kicked back to life is from vibration from the other subs. It sounds as if there is a loose connection or dry solder joint. I think the use of the high outputs from the other subs is akin to thumping the TV to bring back the picture.

Now I have had a closer look at your graph especially the Eq settings.

I notice that form 63 to 100 Hz there is a 6 db increase on your settings, I doubt that is the room.

I think this is due to your mains cutting off too soon. With those settings your sub is not 12 db down until 200 Hz, and not 24 db down until 400 Hz!

So you are using your sub for a good deal of the diffraction compensation of your mains, whether you realized it or not. I suspect that this may be happening more often than I thought and consuming the power, since subs by their nature are so inefficient.

That reinforces my view that Lucas Labs are misguided in advising speakers be set to small most often. I think any speaker with reasonably robust drivers and an F3 below 60 Hz should be set to large, and the sub just used to fill the roll off of the mains in particular. Your mains should be much better suited to reproduce the frequencies above 60 Hz than your sub.

I'm going to answer the question raised by "TheFactor" here, as it is on topic.

As most of you likely know my big system does not have a sub in the sense that most of you understand a sub.



These speakers contain two transmission lines, with the longer winding round the back of the smaller.

The smaller line with the MTM driver arrangement has a calculated and measured F3 of 44 Hz. The line is allowed to roll of acoustically there is no electrical cut off to the drivers, so it is analogous to a large setting of mains.

Since the baffle is narrow and swept back there is a step response.

The lower line has a calculated F3 of 27 Hz with second order roll off. The measured F3 because of room gain, I suspect, is 22 Hz

So the lower 10 inch drivers are fed from different amps. The upper driver has not only bass duty but also provides the diffraction compensation for the MTM drivers.

The lower driver is cut off second order above 80 Hz to prevent comb filtering issues.

The amps driving the lower drivers gets a lot less warm than the the amp that also has to provide the diffraction loss. In view of where the power distribution curve actually is, this should not be surprising.

The center channel is a line with a calculated F3 of 47 Hz, measured it is around 43 Hz. Diffraction compensation is active. The speaker plays full range and is allowed to cut off acoustically.

The surrounds are sealed units with an F3 calculated and measured at 53 Hz. Since they are sealed roll off is second order. They are allowed to roll off acoustically.



The rear speakers have a bass response that a lot of subs would envy.



They are again dual lines, biamped. The F3 is 35 Hz second order, so there is good output to 25 Hz. They of course are not rolled off. They really get to show off their stuff in some of the multichannel SACDs I have.

The question of sub setting on my other system, was explained in a recent thread, so I will copy it here: -



Those subs were made for a purpose. Being isobarik and coupled cavity, they are very inefficient.

I built them to splice to the speakers that are now my surrounds, that I used to use on location recording. They are sealed with an F3 of 53 Hz. Band pass subs have a second order roll off high and low pass acoustically.

Also in a band pass sub, the designer has precise control of Q. So I could extend the bass, without, making it at all boomy

The current speakers use the venerable KEF B 139s on a ported enclosure. I know these driver s very well after thirty plus years using them. I can really mask the fact the enclosures are ported, and they have an alignment that is first order stating at about 100 Hz, so -3db is 53 Hz, but they are still only 6 db down at 30 Hz, at they point they roll off at 24 db per octave.

So the subs have practically nothing to do. I have customized a Crown VFX 2 to splice the curves. So now the combined curves roll off at 12 db per octave with a 3 db point of 27 Hz.

So if you play the subs alone, you only occasionally hear them on music.

However on tone sweeps you can hear the difference markedly, and also on music that has low bass content. Even though the are highly inefficient, they are called on to produce so little sound the Quad 405 2 driving them barely gets warm.

I would not recommend these subs for a home theater situation.

The other thing is that coupled cavity designs have higher distortion and time delay issues than conventionally ported subs. In fact the distortion and time delay issues are so high with third and fourth order coupled cavity alignments, that I won't use them. Apparently Dr Omar Bose disagrees as he lives these higher order alignments for his bass modules.

So in summary, these subs were designed and built for a very specific purpose, and for general use I would expect people to be quite disappointed with them. However in the manor I use them, it guilds the lily nicely in that very nice sounding system in that space. That is the beauty of DIY.

It was a foul rainy cold afternoon on Saturday, and my wife and I listened to music all afternoon by the fire, ending our listening with two hours of Prairie Home Companion. A really warm fuzzy pleasant afternoon.
Thanks for the Reply TLS GUY it definitely makes sense once I read everything a couple of times :eek: Thanks again !!!
 
Davemcc

Davemcc

Audioholic Spartan
Now I have had a closer look at your graph especially the Eq settings.

I notice that form 63 to 100 Hz there is a 6 db increase on your settings, I doubt that is the room.

I think this is due to your mains cutting off too soon. With those settings your sub is not 12 db down until 200 Hz, and not 24 db down until 400 Hz!

So you are using your sub for a good deal of the diffraction compensation of your mains, whether you realized it or not.
TLS,

I'm not sure what to make of this suggestion. I have the sub and the mains crossover set in the receiver both at 80Hz. When the system is measured with flat EQ, there is a rise in frequency response from 50Hz down that extends below 30Hz. It's not so much that the higher frequencies have a 6dB boost but more that all the lower frequencies have been cut to create a flat response.

The flat response extends well above 100Hz before I encounter the first dip at which point the Velodyne should have little influence on the mains. Oddly enough, the the Integra will not let me cross the sub over below 80Hz so it will be hard to lower the f3 of the sub from where it currently sits.
 
Davemcc

Davemcc

Audioholic Spartan
I'm sorry to hear that Dave. Hopefully waranty will cover you.
We'll see. I called Sonic Boom but had to leave a message. We'll see what they say when they call.
 
Warpdrv

Warpdrv

Audioholic Ninja
The volume on the SMS being at 30 has me concerned....

Even with the sub out on the receiver at -6, depending on the voltage coming out of the AVR, it might be well under sending out a clipped signal, but the Velo gain being brought up to 30 is very likely boosting that signal into clipping - inducing distortion in the amp - and putting the driver out of control...

I have the Sub output (XLR) from my D2v at -2 and watching the clip lights I adjust the volume on my SMS up until I get just below clipping. The Volume on my SMS only gets to 15 at most or less. Anything more then that is a clipped signal - at a volume of 30 that is quite a bit...

From what you are saying about the response and then having to turn the gain in order to get output - I would say there is something wrong with that unit...
 
croseiv

croseiv

Audioholic Samurai
There's nothing like mourning the loss of a loved one.....:eek: Sorry to hear of your issues.
 
TLS Guy

TLS Guy

Seriously, I have no life.
TLS,

I'm not sure what to make of this suggestion. I have the sub and the mains crossover set in the receiver both at 80Hz. When the system is measured with flat EQ, there is a rise in frequency response from 50Hz down that extends below 30Hz. It's not so much that the higher frequencies have a 6dB boost but more that all the lower frequencies have been cut to create a flat response.

The flat response extends well above 100Hz before I encounter the first dip at which point the Velodyne should have little influence on the mains. Oddly enough, the the Integra will not let me cross the sub over below 80Hz so it will be hard to lower the f3 of the sub from where it currently sits.
It is semantics what is boost and what is cut Dave. It is valid to look at it either way. In other words you need to make a judgment about what is going on.

Lets take a look at this crossover arrangement you have. You have good speakers and I know those drive units well.

Now these speakers are ported, with an F3 of 41 Hz, they will be rolling off fourth order below that, so will be 27 db down at 20 Hz.

Now these speakers are going to be properly diffraction compensated. In other words there is a boost of 6 db per octave below around 600 Hz for a speaker that size.

Now you put a second order crossover in circuit, that will negate the diffraction compensation.

Now your crossover is second order. To make a smooth splice your sub needs to be 6 db down at 80 Hz and your mains also need to be 6 db down at 80 Hz.

So your mains are likely rolling off at least third order once you insert the receiver crossover, so the mains are probably 9 db down at crossover.

That would put them 15 db or so down at 60 Hz and 21 db down at 40 Hz. With the crossover they will roll off at least 6th order below 40 Hz, so with the crossover they will be at least 57 db at 20 Hz.

Now a perfect crossover would have them down 18 db at 40 Hz and 30 db at 20 Hz.

Now your sub will be tapering 12 db per octave from around 60 Hz. At 140 Hz it will be 18 db down and therefore providing significant output to the mains. It won't be 24 db down were output becomes insignificant until 210 Hz.

So that scenario would explain your Eq settings very well.

Now the drivers in your mains have a motor system far bigger than most 15" drivers so you will have trouble damaging them.

I think you should set the speakers to large. Set the crossover to come in at 80 Hz which is optimal at X 2 F3 of mains. I bet you will have much improved sound and a better looking curve, and won't be pushing an inefficient sub. It won't be a perfect splice but a much better one.

Really there are only a few junk speakers that should need to be protected from LF, and yours are certainly not among them.

The only issue I wonder about, is whether a receiver is the right device to drive those speakers. Dynaudio drivers present one of the worst drive scenarios, and you can't have an amp too good or powerful to get the best out of them.
 
croseiv

croseiv

Audioholic Samurai
...All the above is utter rubbish and nonsense. If it is so, then the subs are far far too loud.....Then we have movies. I'm not aware of any movie that has continuous explosions. In any event movies are mixed in an artificial bazaar manner with a 20 db boost to the LFE channel which is likely a big contributor to what I have noticed.....I go to concerts often, and the bass is light and never intrusive. I have the strong impression that subs are being set at levels that have nothing to do with realistic reproduction and that, that is a root cause of the problem.

.
Certain forms of music, which I am fairly certain you don't listen to, are demanding on subwoofers. I would say that it also depends on what type of music or concerts one is attending or listening to. Some concerts I have been to had prodigious amounts of bass. And for many of us it is occasionally about feeling that extra SPL that can be experienced by a good sub woofer.

Now I generally listen to Jazz and Classical music, and my subs are calibrated flat with my mains, and generally music requires a 3-5dB boost of the sub woofer level to sound the way I prefer it to. Movies are listened to "flat" realtive to my mains. But it does seem that many movies tracks are very very hot (I wonder if the DVD/BDs we get are masterded somewhat hotter than what the theaters originally get?).

It does seem as if there have been a fairly high number of recent amp issues reported by SVS owners, but in all honesty, it is not really clear in any of the cases if it was due to user error beforehand. Many times it is hard to glean accurate information on forum boards. On the other hand it is known that sub amps can and will fail, especially if driven near maximum out put levels fo extended periods.

In just about every case I have read of, it seems SVS has been quick to replace any amp that was found to be faulty.
 
mike c

mike c

Audioholic Warlord
When I tune the subs, the graph looks something like this:



For no apparent reason, the bass randomly drops out. Last time it happened, I graphed the response and it looked something like this:



I have no explanation for this.:confused:
when the second picture happens, 1) do you actually hear the difference or 2) do you just see the graph?

if it's the first one, the SMS-1 could be wildly losing AND boosting frequencies.

if it's the second one, it might be possible it's just the mic/measuring software on the fritz and increasing the overall volume really toasted something.
 
mike c

mike c

Audioholic Warlord
The volume on the SMS being at 30 has me concerned....

Even with the sub out on the receiver at -6, depending on the voltage coming out of the AVR, it might be well under sending out a clipped signal, but the Velo gain being brought up to 30 is very likely boosting that signal into clipping - inducing distortion in the amp - and putting the driver out of control...

I have the Sub output (XLR) from my D2v at -2 and watching the clip lights I adjust the volume on my SMS up until I get just below clipping. The Volume on my SMS only gets to 15 at most or less. Anything more then that is a clipped signal - at a volume of 30 that is quite a bit...

From what you are saying about the response and then having to turn the gain in order to get output - I would say there is something wrong with that unit...
yup, as per Curt Chisolm of the AVSForum Velodyne thread ... 15 is the unity gain (no gain or attenuation of the signal) for the SMS-1.

i also noticed that on my system, an increase in volume of 10 pts on the SMS-1 equalled a 5db gain in volume.

[gain's effect on volume is highly relative to everything else in the system, but should be a point of reference for you]
 
Warpdrv

Warpdrv

Audioholic Ninja
thanks for that info mike, I didn't know about the Unity Gain Max was 15 from Curt...

I now have the DCX on the way, so I'll likely be unloading my SMS-1, just not enough control for 4 subs... 1 sub - its great, 2 equidistant subs small room yeah, not 4 subs spread out around the room...

Dave, I hope you figure out where the problem lies...
 
Davemcc

Davemcc

Audioholic Spartan
when the second picture happens, 1) do you actually hear the difference or 2) do you just see the graph?

if it's the first one, the SMS-1 could be wildly losing AND boosting frequencies.

if it's the second one, it might be possible it's just the mic/measuring software on the fritz and increasing the overall volume really toasted something.
I do actually hear the change in output. I noticed it happen right in the middle of a song where the bass just dropped out so I ran the sweeps to confirm that there was something real causing the effect.
 
Davemcc

Davemcc

Audioholic Spartan
yup, as per Curt Chisolm of the AVSForum Velodyne thread ... 15 is the unity gain (no gain or attenuation of the signal) for the SMS-1.

i also noticed that on my system, an increase in volume of 10 pts on the SMS-1 equalled a 5db gain in volume.

[gain's effect on volume is highly relative to everything else in the system, but should be a point of reference for you]
Thanks Mike. I didn't know that about the SMS-1. One of the issues I have is giving the amps enough signal so that the auto turn on feature activates the subs at normal volume. To accomplish this, I have to turn the sub amps down quite a bit and compensate with the equipment levels. I use the Integra's sub level control for on the fly adjustments so I set the SMS-1's level to balance those other requirements. Given new information, I can alter that setup.
 
Davemcc

Davemcc

Audioholic Spartan
I think you should set the speakers to large. Set the crossover to come in at 80 Hz which is optimal at X 2 F3 of mains.
I have tried that but I keep coming back to crossing the mains over at 80Hz just out of preference.

The only issue I wonder about, is whether a receiver is the right device to drive those speakers. Dynaudio drivers present one of the worst drive scenarios, and you can't have an amp too good or powerful to get the best out of them.
I've been using the term receiver just for simplicity. The Integra is actually a pre-pro and the speakers are driven by a Rotel 1075.
 
A

AnthemAVM

Enthusiast
I have pushed my SVS sub amps hard and have never had a problem.
 
WmAx

WmAx

Audioholic Samurai
When a sub is used, all speakers should have appropriate crossovers to integrate that subwoofer properly and relieve low bass from the mains(especially ported ones). However, the xovers found in almost every receiver are very limited. I recommend using a receiver only as a pre-amp device, using outboard amps and using DSP xovers such as Behringer DCX2496 units. This will allow the ideal situation. There is no comparison of a DCX2496 and very limited EQ and xovers contained in a receiver.

Of course, the above assumes one really wants to set up an ideal system.

-Chris
 
Davemcc

Davemcc

Audioholic Spartan
Update.

Sonic Boom came through for me...again. They sent me a new amp and I'm back in business. Without the SMS-1 which I'm pretty sure is messed up. I still have to work out how to get it repaired over at the AVS thread.

I think I am going to select the Behringer option for my next upgrade but I'm slow so that may take a while to accomplish.
 
STRONGBADF1

STRONGBADF1

Audioholic Spartan
Update.

Sonic Boom came through for me...again. They sent me a new amp and I'm back in business. Without the SMS-1 which I'm pretty sure is messed up. I still have to work out how to get it repaired over at the AVS thread.

I think I am going to select the Behringer option for my next upgrade but I'm slow so that may take a while to accomplish.
Good deal, Dave.

and take you time...I'm in no hurry.:)
 
TheFactor

TheFactor

Audioholic Field Marshall
Update.

Sonic Boom came through for me...again. They sent me a new amp and I'm back in business. Without the SMS-1 which I'm pretty sure is messed up. I still have to work out how to get it repaired over at the AVS thread.

I think I am going to select the Behringer option for my next upgrade but I'm slow so that may take a while to accomplish.
Nice !!!! :)
 
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