Yamaha TSR-700 help please...

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Scott11

Audiophyte
Just purchased the TSR700 from Costco to cut down on cables used with my previous Pio AVR that would not pass 4K through to TV. All eq (Sony 4K BDP, DirecTV, PS4, Xbox One) going into AVR and one HDMI out to TV (LG OLED) through ARC. Nothing but constant issues and need some help to figure out what I'm missing.

Started with tons of audio and video problems from handshake issues I assume. Lots of cable swapping, unplugging/replugging, and power cycling. It's better now, but still having issues at times when switching from inputs within AVR.

Main issue: When trying to use passthrough with AVR in standby to keep speakers off (only TV internal speakers on), I can get this to work, but various things trigger the AVR to come back on, or even activate the BDP. For example, I have passthrough working fine with DirecTV playing sound through TV speakers. Then I hit "guide" on the remote to go to the DirecTV guide, and the AVR turns on again. I've gone into the trigger setting of the AVR setup menu and tried different settings to stop this. Right now, I have it to Manual and Low. Not sure if this is right since these setting are not explained very well at all.

Also, when watching Netflix or Disney+ from TV to AVR, 4K is sometimes not recognized, and Dolby Atmos never shows on the display front of the AVR for Atmos programs. It comes up as DD or DD+ only. I only have a 5.3 (3 subs) setup, but Atmos should still read on the display front I would think as DTS X shows up on those enabled BD's. Speaking of DTS X, it is significantly quieter than DD or DD+. Is this common. I had to increase the volume quite a bit to hear better.
 
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Leemix

Audioholic Chief
Turn off CEC and ARC if you dont use them, many if not all issues should go away. (As in if the TV isnt the source you dont use ARC and if you dont want things to turn on or off automatically then CEC, or whatever its named on that AVR should be off)
Make sure you have the right quality HDMI cables, premium high speed or ultra high speed HDMI and you should be good.
What do you play Netflix through and does Netflix actually support Atmos through it, streaming atmos is dolby digital+ so with a 5.1 setup thats what you get no matter if its Atmos or DD+ on the display. You also need the right Netflix subscription for atmos on everything that has it.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 
S

Scott11

Audiophyte
Turn off CEC and ARC if you dont use them, many if not all issues should go away. (As in if the TV isnt the source you dont use ARC and if you dont want things to turn on or off automatically then CEC, or whatever its named on that AVR should be off)
Make sure you have the right quality HDMI cables, premium high speed or ultra high speed HDMI and you should be good.
What do you play Netflix through and does Netflix actually support Atmos through it, streaming atmos is dolby digital+ so with a 5.1 setup thats what you get no matter if its Atmos or DD+ on the display. You also need the right Netflix subscription for atmos on everything that has it.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
I stream Netflix from the TV, so that's where the ARC comes in when I want the sound going through the AVR. I guess I could run an optical from the TV to the AVR and not use ARC, but thats kinda why I bought a newer AVR, to reduce cables used. Is CEC basically HDMI Control?
 
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Leemix

Audioholic Chief
I stream Netflix from the TV, so that's where the ARC comes in when I want the sound going through the AVR. I guess I could run an optical from the TV to the AVR and not use ARC, but thats kinda why I bought a newer AVR, to reduce cables used. Is CEC basically HDMI Control?
Yes its HDMI control and when using ARC you might not be able to turn everything in it completly off, but you can turn off some things and you can turn off CEC in the bluray player also.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 
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Leemix

Audioholic Chief
Hopefully someone with newer Yamaha experience can comment more specifically about the settings you can try.
 
T

Trebdp83

Audioholic Field Marshall
Hello and welcome. What is the model of the TV? If it is a newer model that supports eARC, you will need HDMI cables that support ethernet. Have you run the 1.31 firmware update in the Yamaha?
 
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Scott11

Audiophyte
Hello and welcome. What is the model of the TV? If it is a newer model that supports eARC, you will need HDMI cables that support ethernet. Have you run the 1.31 firmware update in the Yamaha?
The firmware updated twice when I was setting it up. Finally on 1.31 I think. I have an LG OLED C9 with eARC. I'm using the below cable for ARC.

Zeskit Cinema Plus 4K 10ft High Speed with Ethernet 22.28Gbps HDMI 2.0b Cable, Compatible with Dolby Vision 4K 60Hz HDR ARC 4:4:4 HDCP 2.2

I ordered the below to see if it makes a difference, but I doubt it.

Zeskit Maya 8K 48Gbps Certified Ultra High Speed HDMI Cable 10ft, 4K120 8K60 144Hz eARC HDR HDCP 2.2 2.3 Compatible with Dolby Vision Apple TV 4K Roku Sony LG Samsung Xbox Series X RTX 3080 PS4 PS5

My main issue is the power turning on on the AVR when I want it in stand by and it switching the Sony BDP on when I don't want it to.

Other than that, it really just the sound encode confusion. Straight or Auto decode? DTHD or DTHD/DSur? Alsom why does Atmos not show on the display, but DTS X does. I only have a 5.3 setup (3 subs), but I would assume that does not matter. Just want to make sure the AVR is decoding the correct sound or not.
 
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Trebdp83

Audioholic Field Marshall
Turn CEC off in every device. Atmos may not show up when set to 5.1 in the Yamaha. Set it to 5.1.2. See if it shows Atmos and then switch it back to 5.1. It may still show Atmos.
 

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