yettitheman

yettitheman

Audioholic General
I've returned from a slumber of sorts. What better way to celebrate my less than stellar return, by producing and putting on public display my new toy?


The Yamaha P2250 Power Amplifier.



Some of you may remember the P2201 power amp I had a few years ago. I still wish that I didn't get rid of it, but things happen, and it gives me an opportunity to acquire and evaluate new (to me) equipment for the enjoyment of my tinkering side. While the 2250 is no slouch, to me it's just not the same as the 2201. But, let's continue.



A healthy 950VA rating. Not 15 amp breaker tripping territory, but certainly more than an anemic RCA 1000W Home Theater in a box could ever hope to draw from an outlet. Mind you the weight of this amp could crush each individual component from the RCA box, weighing in at approximately 40 lbs.



Bridgeable like the 2201, but a little easier to accomplish (I mean remember) how to do it on the 2205. A big plus for those that want to run a subwoofer, or perhaps the worlds most anabolic center channel :D

You also have an option for speaker output via binding posts OR 1/4" TRS.

Now the good part. Inside pictures! :cool:


Somewhat shielded LARGE iron core transformer (as opposed to the toroidal on the 2201), A/B channel banks left/right of the transformer, and some of the front end controls/lights for the panel lie ahead.



A closer look at one of the channel boards, signal/clip lamps, gain control extensions, and main fuse area.



Even closer look of the A/B transistors, and main fuse area.



Main power capacitors. Nice quality Nichicons pretty much throughout the amplifier.
 
yettitheman

yettitheman

Audioholic General


Active cooling fan. Very quiet unit(at least mine is), appears to be serviceable. Mine had no issues with bearing wear or shaft play, so I left it alone.



The only real problem with the amplifier; the fan filter. I took the cover off and found that the reusable element (at least the Yamaha one) is toast. Crumbled and sticky like old 8-Track pinch roller foam. Nasty stuff. Replaced it with a cut to original size furnace pre-filter, that comes in a bag for $3. I'll probably have enough filters for life :D



What I thought I would get to use on something soon... sigh.



This will be it's configuration soon. Adcom SLC- 505 with a Yamaha P2250. Nice. :cool:
 
STRONGBADF1

STRONGBADF1

Audioholic Spartan
Congrats! New toys are fun. I need to go out to the trift stores and anoy my wife with something new to me.:)
 
yettitheman

yettitheman

Audioholic General
Wowee. Got a chance to run it for more than 3 hours the other night, and it just runs hot. Hotter than the HK AVR I have laying around.

Not to mention, the fan CAN indeed move at a higher speed, making it just louder overall.

Still a powerful and stable amplifier, just hot and loud :D
 
J

jnapoleon

Audiophyte
Fan not working, fuzzy output after about an hour

Glad I found your post. I want to preface this. I don't know what the proper term is for some equipment but it does work

I have been using mine for about 3 years and I got it used, so it could have some years on it. I have my ipod hooked up to it and found that the sound comeing through the speakers gets very fuzzy after abotu an hour. I also notice that the fan isn't kicking on. I have to shut it down and let it cool down before the music comes out clear again.

Is it the fan, could it be a fuse for the fan, or a filter, or some other reason that it does this.

I hope to not have to replace it and any help is appreciated.

thanks
 
Bryceo

Bryceo

Banned
nice amp i never new you could ues them in a hometheater but :( but now i no you can i think ill purchas a couple
 
yettitheman

yettitheman

Audioholic General
Glad I found your post. I want to preface this. I don't know what the proper term is for some equipment but it does work I have been using mine for about 3 years and I got it used, so it could have some years on it. I have my ipod hooked up to it and found that the sound comeing through the speakers gets very fuzzy after abotu an hour. I also notice that the fan isn't kicking on. I have to shut it down and let it cool down before the music comes out clear again. Is it the fan, could it be a fuse for the fan, or a filter, or some other reason that it does this. I hope to not have to replace it and any help is appreciated. thanks
Hard to tell without having a first hand look at it by a competent technician. But, it could be a multitude of problems. Have you tried another source? Eh, it's worth a shot.

This unit uses a temperature sensor(s) in conjunction with the fan circuit. By default, the fan runs at low speed until a certain temperature is reached (I'm not sure on the cutoff, I don't have the service manual on this machine). Then the fan kicks into high speed operation after the sensor detects a high enough heatsink temperature. Now, the fan could be totally dead or disconnected (unlikely, unless the previous owners had a tendency to feed it liquid or lots of dirt), or more likely, the sensor is having issues (fell off the heat sink, but I think these are screwed onto the heatsink) or just gave up.

Making sure the fan filter is still serviceable and in one piece (most of them get nasty and junk, and hence removed and thrown away without replacement) is also helpful. If the grill is clogged, the fan won't move air no matter what you do.

If the fan is not running lo/hi and it gets hot (which it will after an hour) there is a possibility that heat soak is getting the better of the transistors. The thermal junction for the 2SA1303 transistors are 302 degrees Fahrenheit (150 Celsius). But, chances are it's not getting that hot... but sometimes the heatsink paste dries up and just makes a gap between the heatsink... again unlikely here. I'm pretty sure you would know if 16 of those transistors were close to pumping out 300 F ;)

A failing/failed capacitor could do this as well as these caps are probably at least 20 years old, and I'm surprised my amp is nearly immaculate. Heavier used amps though... I feel sorry for them :D As to which cap, if any of them are bulging out the top, opened, or exploded, well, there's your answer. That's just a quick way to test them; otherwise you'll have to go probe each circuit to check (or desolder each part and test it, even more maddening). The visual test is probably best here, considering I haven't stated a more obvious DIY route. (below)

The detent switch for the gain control is dirty. Now, chances are that if it was the gain control pot itself, it would do it all the time, hot or cold. But, it's usually easier to clean and lube pots and see if it works. At least you know they are clean.

But, the part where it works great cold, and when it heats up makes it fuzzy, is bad.
There is a problem there directly related to heat, or runtime operation, or both. If you are still trying to use this amp (which I don't recommend), turn the gain to just 1/4 power. I am assuming you have the gain set to full or very close to full. By reducing gain to 1/4, you are now decreasing the power going to the transistors, in turn lowering the TDP of the package. This lowered thermal dissipation should be enough to rule out other issues.
If it still runs just as hot, or still gets fuzzy after the same time, stop using it and take it to a shop.
If it runs longer at 1/4 power before getting fuzzy or runs cooler, that's better, but still not great. You'll have to still take it to a shop, but at least you have some idea what's going on before you drop it off for service.

Either repair is going to require a competent technician.
 
T

tillerman6

Audioholic Intern
Yamaha guy,

Where might I find a repair manual for the P2250? Or at least a schematic and parts layout?

Thanks in advance for the help!

ewew921@gmail.com
 
Adam

Adam

Audioholic Jedi
Welcome to the forum!

A quick Google search found a service manual. Go to this link here and click the "To download the file, please, click here !" link near the bottom. It worked for me.
 
T

tillerman6

Audioholic Intern
Yamaha guy,

Well, I found the service manual easy enough and I have been trying to find the problem(s) causing a DC offset in the A chan. I've got some parts coming in to replace Q214 and Q222 that were leaking and possibly Q201. Working with "repairmaster" on here too. He was a big help. My amp looks exactly like yours except mine is a C model with the transformer input sockets on the rear panel. Everything else looks identical. It ran for a few minutes, but the DC offset shut it down too many times and I have the A channel all apart doing extreme detailed testing on all the components. The FET seems to be a problem with leakage all the way at the front end.

D207 is a mystery as it is called a varistor MV-12 on the parts list. The VR201 does not have the authority to balance out the DC offset, and the MV-12 may be at fault.?
 
T

tillerman6

Audioholic Intern
Wowee. Got a chance to run it for more than 3 hours the other night, and it just runs hot. Hotter than the HK AVR I have laying around.

Not to mention, the fan CAN indeed move at a higher speed, making it just louder overall.

Still a powerful and stable amplifier, just hot and loud :D
Yettitheman,

You seem to know a lot about the Yamaha P2250 and I have one myself. I rebuilt it and replaced all the electrolytic caps and a couple of transistors. Works fine now, but I want to drive it off the left and right channels of my Yamaha RX-V365 to be able to use all 7 of my speakers without buying a new receiver. Unfortunately the 365 does not have any pre- outs available. So I want to ask you- I was reading the old posts on here- did you use an Adcom SLC 505 to drive your power amp? and how did you like the result? you can certainly use my email to reply if you like ewew921@gmail.com Thanks in advance!

Earl White
 
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