Woofer Decision time

R

Reorx

Full Audioholic
I have a nice looking 15" sub with a blown woofer that I had to look for a few months to find proper replacement drivers.

My enclosure is ~2cubic feet, non-ported, and passive. The room is 25x15ft

I am trying to decide between MB Quartz (PWE 352/354 or RWE 352/354), and a Dayton (DVC385-88) for my replacement drivers.
I got a ~100w x2 ch @4ohm (75w@8ohm) amp to service it (I will be upgrading the amp with tax return money this spring).

http://www.mbquart.de/en/produkte/car/reference/produkt.php?nr=rwe_352_354
http://www.mbquart.de/en/produkte/car/premium/produkt.php?nr=pwe_352_354

So, with that said, and with the Quart MB links above (partsexpress cant be linked), what would be the better choice for the current amp I have, and will be able to scale better when I get a bigger amp?

A 2nd question I just thought of...if the recomended enclosure size for a woofer is 1.5 cubic feet, and you put it into a 2.0 cubic foot box...how does that change the sound?

Reorx
 
annunaki

annunaki

Moderator
If the woofer is for car audio and is recommended for 1.5 cu.ft., I would actually recommend the 2.0 cu.ft. enclosure. Of course that would depend upon what the Qtc. is in the sealed enclosure (of 1.5) not taking into account the cabin gain.
 
mulester7

mulester7

Audioholic Samurai
annunaki said:
If the woofer is for car audio and is recommended for 1.5 cu.ft., I would actually recommend the 2.0 cu.ft. enclosure. Of course that would depend upon what the Qtc. is in the sealed enclosure (of 1.5) not taking into account the cabin gain.
.....excellent, Annunaki....I talked to a guy at Soundstream, and he said to take a box rated at .6 cubic foot inside to be used in a car, to a full 1.0 inside since a room is now to be filled....and mine are going to be sealed boxes, pass the watts, please......

.....Reorx, if you have a stereo amp lying around drawing dust, strap it, and it will then see a 2 ohm load from the 4 ohm single voice-coiled 15 inch sub element....I promise you, unpowered subs requiring amping sound much better this way....authority and bite....oscillations much more pronounced.....your damping factor is halved, but it is quickly a most concrete decision to give it up.....correct, out comes the pocketbook for watts, once again....beats 50 thousand for one more half-percent like them Audiophile idiots give......
 
R

Reorx

Full Audioholic
by "strap it", you mean bridge it correct?
Yeah I was thinking about that...but didnt know weither or not I should since I would be getting a dual voice sub. Single voice subs I could see bridging it. But from my understanding, you want dual voice, expecially for HT.

Are the Hsu, SVS subs dual or single voice coils?

Reorx
 
mulester7

mulester7

Audioholic Samurai
Reorx said:
by "strap it", you mean bridge it correct?
Yeah I was thinking about that...but didnt know weither or not I should since I would be getting a dual voice sub. Single voice subs I could see bridging it. But from my understanding, you want dual voice, expecially for HT.

Are the Hsu, SVS subs dual or single voice coils?

Reorx
.....yes, bridge/strap.....the SVS elements I have dealt with were the "plus" elements, and they are single voice-coil....Reorx, let me assure you, you get a single voice-coiler rated at 4 and hit it with a strapped 2, and you'll like it a lot....you'd much rather have that, than one side of an amp hitting each side of a dual voice-coiler....I have played with sub amp arrangements much.....I would consider ordering a 15 inch, "rubber surround", element, with one voice-coil, rated at about 350-500 continuous, and hit it with a strapped quality amp which possesses at least twice the continuous power of the element's rated continuous......
 
R

Reorx

Full Audioholic
/sigh
time to research Single Voice Coil subs now.
 
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