(Wiring) Speaker Binding Post Insert

Aaron Kwekel

Aaron Kwekel

Audioholic
Hello everyone I am new to this. I just want to see if I’m doing this right.
The set screw is not touching any Cooper wire. It is against the casing of the wire. So the wire doesn’t fall out. I just don’t know if I need to pull the copper wire through the other hole near the top. Then screw the top down.
 

Attachments

Alex2507

Alex2507

Audioholic Slumlord
Nice legs. Now my g/f ... never mind.

Double up the bare copper and set the screw into it.

The part that sticks into the room is for wire that is in the room, not for the wire from inside the wall that you've made the mistake of weaving through too far to bypass the screw.
 
Aaron Kwekel

Aaron Kwekel

Audioholic
Nice legs. Now my g/f ... never mind.

Double up the bare copper and set the screw into it.

The part that sticks into the room is for wire that is in the room, not for the wire from inside the wall that you've made the mistake of weaving through too far to bypass the screw.
Hahah,
So the set screw needs to be tightened against the copper wire and that’s it? So how far should the wire go through the binding post?
 
ryanosaur

ryanosaur

Audioholic Overlord
Are these replacement binding posts for an existing Speaker? Purpose of re-doing the existing Binding Posts?

I agree with Alex... the way you have it pictured is not correct and if you wanted to use a Banana Plug, for example, you would be unable to insert it properly. Also with that bare copper sticking out, you are setting yourself up for the fast track to a short.

Most of the Binding Posts I've looked at are designed to have a Quick Connect female spade from the internal wiring or to have the internal wiring soldered directly to the Binding Posts.
As Alex said, the copper should be in contact with the set screw, and not protrude any further up than necessary.
 
Replicant 7

Replicant 7

Audioholic Samurai
Nice legs. Now my g/f ... never mind.

Double up the bare copper and set the screw into it.

The part that sticks into the room is for wire that is in the room, not for the wire from inside the wall that you've made the mistake of weaving through too far to bypass the screw.
Lot's of dudes shave their legs. :p
 
Last edited:
T

Trebdp83

Audioholic Spartan
“We wear short shorts…” Those gams are ready for the beach after some hair removal.:p
 
Alex2507

Alex2507

Audioholic Slumlord
Are these replacement binding posts for an existing Speaker? Purpose of re-doing the existing Binding Posts?

I agree with Alex... the way you have it pictured is not correct and if you wanted to use a Banana Plug, for example, you would be unable to insert it properly. Also with that bare copper sticking out, you are setting yourself up for the fast track to a short.

Most of the Binding Posts I've looked at are designed to have a Quick Connect female spade from the internal wiring or to have the internal wiring soldered directly to the Binding Posts.
As Alex said, the copper should be in contact with the set screw, and not protrude any further up than necessary.
That's a plug for a Keystone wall plate.

So how far should the wire go through the binding post?
It shouldn't go through the binding post. If you're not clear on this I gotta ask if you know that one side is in-wall and requires a wire rating so your house doesn't burn down. This is like the second weird wire thread today.

Youtube (toward the end):

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="
" title="YouTube video player" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; clipboard-write; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen></iframe>
 
Aaron Kwekel

Aaron Kwekel

Audioholic
Are these replacement binding posts for an existing Speaker? Purpose of re-doing the existing Binding Posts?

I agree with Alex... the way you have it pictured is not correct and if you wanted to use a Banana Plug, for example, you would be unable to insert it properly. Also with that bare copper sticking out, you are setting yourself up for the fast track to a short.

Most of the Binding Posts I've looked at are designed to have a Quick Connect female spade from the internal wiring or to have the internal wiring soldered directly to the Binding Posts.
As Alex said, the copper should be in contact with the set screw, and not protrude any further up than necessary.
No. We just moved into a new house. I would like to just plug into the wall.
Are these replacement binding posts for an existing Speaker? Purpose of re-doing the existing Binding Posts?

I agree with Alex... the way you have it pictured is not correct and if you wanted to use a Banana Plug, for example, you would be unable to insert it properly. Also with that bare copper sticking out, you are setting yourself up for the fast track to a short.

Most of the Binding Posts I've looked at are designed to have a Quick Connect female spade from the internal wiring or to have the internal wiring soldered directly to the Binding Posts.
As Alex said, the copper should be in contact with the set screw, and not protrude any further up than necessary.
no we just moved into a new house. I just want to plug into a wall using banana plugs. So the on thing the copper wire needs to touch is the set screw?
 
Aaron Kwekel

Aaron Kwekel

Audioholic
Are these replacement binding posts for an existing Speaker? Purpose of re-doing the existing Binding Posts?

I agree with Alex... the way you have it pictured is not correct and if you wanted to use a Banana Plug, for example, you would be unable to insert it properly. Also with that bare copper sticking out, you are setting yourself up for the fast track to a short.

Most of the Binding Posts I've looked at are designed to have a Quick Connect female spade from the internal wiring or to have the internal wiring soldered directly to the Binding Posts.
As Alex said, the copper should be in contact with the set screw, and not protrude any further up than necessary.
So the banana plug doesn’t need to touch the end of the copper wire? Just the set screw?
 
Aaron Kwekel

Aaron Kwekel

Audioholic
That's a plug for a Keystone wall plate.



It shouldn't go through the binding post. If you're not clear on this I gotta ask if you know that one side is in-wall and requires a wire rating so your house doesn't burn down. This is like the second weird wire thread today.

Youtube (toward the end):

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="
" title="YouTube video player" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; clipboard-write; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen></iframe>
This is a brand new house so they did the wiring for the speakers and just gave me a blank wall plates.
 
ryanosaur

ryanosaur

Audioholic Overlord
So the banana plug doesn’t need to touch the end of the copper wire? Just the set screw?
The Binding post itself becomes the conductor...

Strip enough IN-WALL rated Speaker Cable so the copper goes just past the screw. After cutting the insulator, you can apply a little twist when removing the insulation to twist the wire... or just twist it by hand after removing the insulation.
Tighten the Set-Screw into the bare copper. The insulation should be just inside the sleeve of the binding post to help prevent shorts.
The binding post is now a conductor.
 
Replicant 7

Replicant 7

Audioholic Samurai
This is a brand new house so they did the wiring for the speakers and just gave me a blank wall plates.
Post up photos of your system bro! We love audio porn! First speaker connectors with legs! Your man card just got punched with a thousand points!
 
mtrycrafts

mtrycrafts

Seriously, I have no life.
The room side of that part is for bare wire or banana plug.
 
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